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Westbrook

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received mine yesterday. i just noticed, there actually is a zipper placket, but for some reason, they thought it would be a good idea (not sure if purely design, but i cannot think of a strong functional reason for this) to flip the placket over and sew it to the other side.

with that in mind, perfect jacket but is there a way to just remove the stitching and have the placket back over the zipper? it doesn't bother me THAT much, but 'why not' if its a simple job.

the placket is not sewn the whole length down, but only held in place at a few spots with a short stitch.

normally if this was fabric, it would be a no brainer and a 2mins job, but I'm not sure how removing stitches on gore-tex. only issue i can think of would be the stitch-holes would be more visible on gore-tex than regular fabric.

closeup pic from haven:

http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0051/7042/products/Acronym-J53TS-GT-Black-11_2048x2048.jpg?v=1473946942

my own pic showing the 'free' placket held by stitch.

I was under the impression it was like this to make one handed buttoning easier, also so you can do it without looking. Thumb under the button and slide your index finger against or under the placket. It gives you resistance as you snap it in place.

Edited by thatslapz
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Hi guys, 

 

Lurked here for a while and been an admirer of Acronym for a short while, finally going to start buying into the brand rather than just admiring from a far.

 

I would like a bit of sizing help, if you don't mind.

Looking to purchase a pair of P20's. From the research I've done and the measurements I've seen, I am leaning more towards the medium but thought it wouldn't hurt to ask here.

 

I'm 6'2" and normally a 32"/ 33" waist. If it helps, I wear medium / 32 in Maharishi trousers and the 32" Veilance apparat pant fits well. If the Acronym measurements are correct, the 43cm waist on the P20's should be perfect, though from what I know you don't always judge Acronym trousers by the waist measurement. It appears that these aren't meant to gather at the waist like some of the wider fitting trousers, hence why I'm thinking medium.

 

Apologise for the babble

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Is there usually some type of announcement for second drop of the season?

 

No, as they've never split it into two drops.

 

*Clarification: nothing usual because it's never been done. But drops usually are announced by Errolson and team, so I'd expect they would do something for drop #2.

Edited by piece keeper
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for those that have the P24A-DS, i know it's kind of been discussed before already, but just wish to be a bit clearer on its fit... if i wear size M in P10s, would sizing down on the P24s be wise?  how loose is the fit?  

 

from the fit pics, errolson seems to be wearing a size S in the pants if you look at the waist fit, and compare to his other fit pics of such as P10, P10A in which he wore size M so i'm guessing he's also 32" waist... if he is wearing size M, waist measurement @ 90cm, then the waist should be cinched up, no?

 

from his fit pics, the pants look best when the waist is just right with the baggy cut; a cinched waist wouldn't quite look right and as intended as for the P23s...  

 

thanks.

 

size down. or get your regular size and just use a belt.

 

re: overall fit, it's definitely more relaxed than the p10. closest thigh fit is the p16, but the 24 doesn't taper nearly as much.

 

imo, it's the best pant acr's done, specifically the ds version.

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from the fit pics, errolson seems to be wearing a size S in the pants if you look at the waist fit, and compare to his other fit pics of such as P10, P10A in which he wore size M so i'm guessing he's also 32" waist... if he is wearing size M, waist measurement @ 90cm, then the waist should be cinched up, no?

He's wearing a Medium.

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size down. or get your regular size and just use a belt.

 

re: overall fit, it's definitely more relaxed than the p10. closest thigh fit is the p16, but the 24 doesn't taper nearly as much.

 

imo, it's the best pant acr's done, specifically the ds version.

 

great, thanks :)

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I was under the impression it was like this to make one handed buttoning easier, also so you can do it without looking. Thumb under the button and slide your index finger against or under the placket. It gives you resistance as you snap it in place.

 

i see what you mean, but there already are loops under the button as you mentioned, and seeing how this placket design isn't even seen in the upcoming J56 which is a button-only jacket, i don't think their intention is to make one-handed button easier. since if thats the case, then this concept should definitely be seen on the J56 field too, which would probably need it more than the J53 with a zipper.

 

i don't think gore-tex is that slippery that the loop under the button is not enough for one-handed buttoning.

 

additionally, inserting a finger into the hidden placket + another finger under the button loops while doing one-handed button means you are snapping on the buttons using the nail side of one finger (if you can visualize) with the flesh side of the other. which idk for you, but for me is a pretty awkward way to snap a button. the only way around it is, to do some maneuvering of the finger AFTER inserting into the placket so you can snap it together with both fingers flesh-side. which, if anything, requires an even more awkward action.

 

 

all this talk about fingering, thank god for Gore-Tex - Guaranteed To Keep You Dryâ„¢

Edited by nictan
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I would love this jacket with a closure similar to the J46.  Another thing that bugged me was the horizontal line was jarring on the detached pockets, and really reminiscent of this year's SISP. Something about it made it look like a work apron. I think the more I look at it, the more I like the remainder of the jacket—save for the exposed zip placket. 

On the one hand I really like that it's a big "fuck you" to utilitarian function/exultation of form, but on the other hand, the silver doesn't mesh well to me. The coat looks amazing open without the hood and the lapels up or the hood up. I mean look at Ian, looking like a Die Hard bad guy... I would really love if Errolson showed us interim designs to show the evolution or refinement of some of these jackets.

When I first saw the j53 via initial photos I was thought it was cool but didn't seem to be a must have (I also didn't know it was supposed to have a hood). When I tried it on I really liked it and some of the details like you mentioned such as the main zipper didn't personally bother me because of the way I would wear it e.g. Snapping a button or two on the placket which is how I wear the j47a and j43a; I never use the zip.

I ordered the j53 just now in a small and hope that it fits the way I want it to haha [originally tried on a medium]

Edited by ddohnggo
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Hi guys, 

 

Lurked here for a while and been an admirer of Acronym for a short while, finally going to start buying into the brand rather than just admiring from a far.

 

I would like a bit of sizing help, if you don't mind.

Looking to purchase a pair of P20's. From the research I've done and the measurements I've seen, I am leaning more towards the medium but thought it wouldn't hurt to ask here.

 

I'm 6'2" and normally a 32"/ 33" waist. If it helps, I wear medium / 32 in Maharishi trousers and the 32" Veilance apparat pant fits well. If the Acronym measurements are correct, the 43cm waist on the P20's should be perfect, though from what I know you don't always judge Acronym trousers by the waist measurement. It appears that these aren't meant to gather at the waist like some of the wider fitting trousers, hence why I'm thinking medium.

 

Apologise for the babble

were you thinking of Small or Large, if not the Medium?

 

I'm 6' and a true 32 waist. I wear Medium and they're perfect, both in terms of length and waist. The Stotz fabric doesn't stretch at all which is great. An awesome pant.

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The only thing you might find at 6'2 is that they ride up your legs a fair bit. They're supposed to be cropped but I'm 5'9 and with the medium I wouldn't want them to crop up too much higher. However, as you note, with that style going up in size isn't likely to fix that as the waist is supposed to be fitted...

Edited by RemarkableArmor
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Yes. Lots of stores ordered only one per size of most items this go around, which is why they sold out so fast from other retailers. Probably will be a similar situation with drop 2.

Thanks. Did catch how much the p24a-ds retailed for users in the U.S. on acrnm site and do you have an idea how much the p24a-s will be in comparison?

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were you thinking of Small or Large, if not the Medium?

 

I'm 6' and a true 32 waist. I wear Medium and they're perfect, both in terms of length and waist. The Stotz fabric doesn't stretch at all which is great. An awesome pant.

 

 

The only thing you might find at 6'2 is that they ride up your legs a fair bit. They're supposed to be cropped but I'm 5'9 and with the medium I wouldn't want them to crop up too much higher. However, as you note, with that style going up in size isn't likely to fix that as the waist is supposed to be fitted...

 

Thanks for the replies.

 

I'm debating between a medium and large.

I'll have a good think. Unfortunately, I don't have the perk of being able to try on and return as I'll be buying second hand.

 

One last favour, would someone with the medium P20's be able to give a thigh measurement in cm's?

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Let’s talk about the J56-GT… it makes me want to trade my J47A…

Like the J53TS-GT I was less than thrilled initially. I was critical of the lack of a storm/wind flap waist pockets, the lack of a zip, the storm hood—well the dual placement of the Velcro tape AND the storm hood rather than the fold down concealable “fast-hood†of previous seasons.

Taking a deeper dive, the J56 looks like the combination of a British SOE Denison Smock, the Fallschirmjäger Knochensack, the US Army M42 jump jacket, and portions of US Army M41–M43–M51–M65 field jackets.The J56 is a real nod to military garment history with several distinct design features:

Canted chest dual entry patch/cargo pockets: The pockets visually look closer to the M42’s and Denison smock’s canted pockets. It’s interesting that the pockets look like cargo pockets but placement and side entry make them similar to the 1941 vertical slash pockets or a peacoat’s handwarmer pockets. As to Acronym designs, these differ from the previous canted overlapping chest pockets on the J34. The J34’s seem conducive to reaching across the chest for horizontal entry while the J56 looks to encourage reaching across for vertical entry. I want to see some outfits with the P16A and the J56 together. I think it’d look super dope.

 

The waist welt zip pockets: these are definitely evocative of those on the Knochensack—except the Knochensack has a storm flap over the zippers. This is another one of those design decisions that grew on me. Maybe it’s a balance thing, who knows? In an ideal world, I would’ve liked to see patch pockets below the higher ones but they’re not offensive to me in the way the exposed zipper on the J53’s was. I actually kind of like them since they are like the fallschirmjäger smock.

Faux-extended wind cuffs and grosgrain velcro cuff adjusters: these are M65 all the way and dissimilar to Acronym’s usual same fabric cuff adjusters. I really appreciate this detail, I’ve always liked the angled cuff. I kinda wish the Veilance field jacket did something like this.

I know that someone said something Acronym owing a huge design debt to military styling in response to the whole 1K thing. How appropriate, inadvertent or not. I’d like to note that Errolson seems like he’s more for appropriating/co-opting military designs in the vein of Maharishi than promoting the military industrial complex like most militaria designers.

Edited by CARLOOA
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Thanks for the replies.

 

I'm debating between a medium and large.

I'll have a good think. Unfortunately, I don't have the perk of being able to try on and return as I'll be buying second hand.

 

One last favour, would someone with the medium P20's be able to give a thigh measurement in cm's?

Laid flat,

32.5 cm at the ~widest part of thigh

23cm at knee articulation

16cm at leg opening

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J56

 

Since someone is finally talking about the J56, I hope you don't mind me asking again:

Anyone have an idea if there are two searate compartments in those cargo pockets or if top and side access lead to the same "space"?

I think i would have prefred a zipper/buttons combination like elsewhere, but am intrigued by the closure and fast exit options I imagine this solution to provide. It seems like accessing the J58 left-side pockets might be a bit fiddly, given the extra material there?

Edited by hjpx
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J56

 

Since someone is finally talking about the J56, I hope you don't mind me asking again:

Anyone have an idea if there are two searate compartments in those cargo pockets or if top and side access lead to the same "space"? I think i would have prefred a zipper/buttons combination like elsewhere, but am intrigued by the closure and fast exit options I imagine this solution to provide. It seems like accessing the J58 left-side pockets might be a bit fiddly, given the extra material there?

I want to say that they will access different compartments. The J28 has a similar function with its chest pockets. Plus, the pocket count is 6 (6 External, 0 Internal), and I don't see anywhere else they'd be able to put them if the cargo pockets were split.

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I like the idea of the J56 a lot but I'm concerned about the price hike on all these shells. I'm assuming this one will fall into the £1200 type bracket whereas it might have been £750ish before.

Same opinions.

I would definitely pay as much as for loro pianas or even schoellers. But for gore,I'm cool with that,just leave these shinys to new kids.

Well, my personal preference was:loro>ss>Epic cotton>ds>etaproof>gore

Not having too much experience with pirmaloft and polartech.

Only if a super strong pattern, say s-j14 or Gt-j16, I will consider having them not much struggling with materials preference.

Edited by Xu Jianfeng
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J56

 

Since someone is finally talking about the J56, I hope you don't mind me asking again:

Anyone have an idea if there are two searate compartments in those cargo pockets or if top and side access lead to the same "space"?

I think i would have prefred a zipper/buttons combination like elsewhere, but am intrigued by the closure and fast exit options I imagine this solution to provide. It seems like accessing the J58 left-side pockets might be a bit fiddly, given the extra material there?

 

 

I mean we're guessing here but it looks like the same detached entry style pocket to the P24 cargo. Definitely looks like a zipper run on the back of that pocket. I'd guess the top and sides are different compartments.

 

t6e4qa.jpg

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I'm not too familiar with anything pre-2016 from Acronym. What would be the ticket if I am looking for something "hoodie-ish" (something light/thinner, easy to throw on) that is interops?

SS-j2 is hoody,but heavey and warm, all conditions interops jacket.Might be the closest choice according to your description.

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