Acronym.

[cmdR]

 

Hated the P16A at first but I'm seriously considering pulling the trigger now. Was going to go with the P17 but I'm a short guy so the P16A is probably going to look like a drop crotch pants on me anyway lol

100% agree with this. The polyester in CH helps with durability, stain resistance and it holds color better. Well worth the price. Not much difference in light drizzle and in the case of heavy downpour, CH will dry faster due to the blend.

Tbh I don't really see any advantage of going with Stotz. Feels like a densely woven chinos to me.

 

The P16A looks good on shorter guys like us imho. Only problem is the small waist size! But if the P14s work for you then it should be fine as it has slight stretch as well.

 

The P17CH should be great for hotter climes tho! At least in theory, 

[thatslapz]

Just wanted to confirm the hood on the J29 is attached by buttons. Does it look like there's 3 or possibly 4 buttons that could be seen when wearing the collar up without the hood?

Yes, four buttons when worn up.  When you fold down the buttons are hidden.

[Sypron]

In the meanwhile, what else in your closest besides the acronym? Do you have room for the upcoming *fingers crossed* acronym shoes and shades?

 

A dozen pairs of ExOfficio underwear. All jokes aside though, it's ridiculously good. Apart from Acronym, none of the techware or high fashion industry appeals to me. I can appreciate brands like Arc'teryx, Stone Island and Isaora but have no desire to own them. It's a sort of peculiar obsession for me, not one that I can fully explain or justify. 

 

 

The P17CH should be great for hotter climes tho! At least in theory, 

 

Having a small gap around the ankle will definitely help a lot with cooling. Just 2 inches of clearance helps circulate the air around. Not as effective as shorts though. 

[steph]

There's a few different versions of CH though. SS-13 CH with energear for instance is super waterproof, moreso than any lightshell. Comes at the cost of being more noisy and having a synthetic feal.

 

Yeah, the SS13 CH fabric is WB-400; it's a cotton face with a polyester backer.

The FW1415 and SS15 CH is a completely different cotton/polymer blend without a backer, so there's no synthetic feel, just a vague slickness, like the cotton's oiled, somehow (it isn't), although that could be down to the 3XDRY / coldblack treatments.

[Yardsale]

 

Pic of my lefty 3A-1

Edited March 17, 2015 by Yardsale

[Brainboy]

What are your thoughts on the metallic zipper? I think I liked the plastic better...

[Appleseed]

OD coated YKK > bling. From a compositional / design standpoint I can't really rationalize adding to the palette.

[bryanayrb]

OD coated YKK > bling. From a compositional / design standpoint I can't really rationalize adding to the palette.

 

i like it alot, really nice with the j44.

 

it's a nice touch for ppl that wear acronym with things that do have flashier hardware

[readytoignite]

Doesn't work on acr

 

huh, wonder if that means we should stop posting about retailer incentives that don't align with the brand's policies?  #stopsnitchin

[cmdR]

OD coated YKK > bling. From a compositional / design standpoint I can't really rationalize adding to the palette.

 

Why not consider a functional standpoint? 

[Appleseed]

I always start from a place of function - our arch. work speaks to that. I’ve never had any issues with the orig. YKK on my Limonta 3A-1, and given that the ‘new’ zipper isn’t being listed as some significant technical upgrade, it distills back down to an aesthetic choice. There’s clearly some self-referential aspect going on, relating back to the more fashion-forward (quote-unquote) nature of SS15s capsule collection identity. But does a messenger bag, otherwise kitted out with mil-spec compression hardware and dark/OD colors, want a flashy, conventional-looking metal zipper? I would argue no, it does not. 

 

Honor the intent and the meaning. Ask what the brick wants. I’m happy to acknowledge that new L2 material and production changes cause end-cost increases. The zipper style suits the J40, and given the historical trajectory, I think it would have worked pretty well on the L-J11 and L-J2 - but there’s an intrinsic reason why most of the ACR hardware has been matte black - it falls within the design ethos and influence.

 

I suppose we’ll recognize in hindsight whether we’re currently undergoing a paradigm shift. Or just using up some left over hardware

[thatslapz]

What are your thoughts on the metallic zipper? I think I liked the plastic better...

I don't have experience with the older style zippers.  However, with this zipper there is a little upward give when you pull on it, making zipping/unzipping easier.  It is kind of like how on a train, there is a little slack in the connections between each car so when the engine begins pulling, it only has to over come the inertia of one car at a time.  With this zipper, you don't have to overcome the tension of the bag's resistance to pulling and the zipper's resistance at once.  It is just the zipper.  I don't know if this makes sense.  I have been celebrating the holiday.

 

Added pictures:

 

And for shits and giggles, my 3a-6ts with 3amp1, 3amk1, 3amk3, 3amz2ts (all xpac) and 3amp2ts (deepest gratitude to everyone that helped me out with this) and new 3a-1 for daily use. Excuse the shitty picture.

 

Here's another with it loaded up for work and an overnight stay.  Fantastic bag!

 

I'm looking to add an mk2 in xpac so if anyone has a lead it would be much appreciated...

Edited March 19, 2015 by thatslapz

[originalprogram]

I always start from a place of function - our arch. work speaks to that. I’ve never had any issues with the orig. YKK on my Limonta 3A-1, and given that the ‘new’ zipper isn’t being listed as some significant technical upgrade, it distills back down to an aesthetic choice. There’s clearly some self-referential aspect going on, relating back to the more fashion-forward (quote-unquote) nature of SS15s capsule collection identity. But does a messenger bag, otherwise kitted out with mil-spec compression hardware and dark/OD colors, want a flashy, conventional-looking metal zipper? I would argue no, it does not. 

 

Honor the intent and the meaning. Ask what the brick wants. I’m happy to acknowledge that new L2 material and production changes cause end-cost increases. The zipper style suits the J40, and given the historical trajectory, I think it would have worked pretty well on the L-J11 and L-J2 - but there’s an intrinsic reason why most of the ACR hardware has been matte black - it falls within the design ethos and influence.

 

I suppose we’ll recognize in hindsight whether we’re currently undergoing a paradigm shift. Or just using up some left over hardware

 

 

Those are some good points Appleseed. Though if you wanted the matte black versions, which I think you already own, then use those. What I do like about the new aesthetics, is it is a bit flashier, and a little bit more cyberpunk to me. The spring season lends itself to that "matrix" looking feeling. And well, Errolson has done every variation, in every single material, with slight changes here and there. That's the best part about it in my opinion. He's speaking for all sides of people who want to be more stealth, utilitarian, and now gearing it to those who want a tiny bit more flash than all black everything.

 

Just my two cents...

 

All I have to say is subnet FW1516... everyone should should be saving right now...

[analog29]

Those are some good points Appleseed. Though if you wanted the matte black versions, which I think you already own, then use those. What I do like about the new aesthetics, is it is a bit flashier, and a little bit more cyberpunk to me. The spring season lends itself to that "matrix" looking feeling. And well, Errolson has done every variation, in every single material, with slight changes here and there. That's the best part about it in my opinion. He's speaking for all sides of people who want to be more stealth, utilitarian, and now gearing it to those who want a tiny bit more flash than all black everything.

 

Just my two cents...

 

All I have to say is subnet FW1516... everyone should should be saving right now...

I'm not sure I should be thanking you or cursing your early warning system

[Sypron]

My take is that functionally, synthetic/polymer is better than metal. 

 

• Lighter
• Cheaper
• Quieter
• Less abrasive. I've got a beautiful Florentine leather jacket with a metal zip. If that zip catches the face of the jacket, it scratches it. Same goes for it you're wearing knitwear under the jacket. A metal one will catch and pull more readily.

My understanding is that the metal ones won't be able to do escape zip either. 

 

Aesthetically, I do prefer the black. 

 

I don't have experience with the older style zippers.  However, with this zipper there is a little upward give when you pull on it, making zipping/unzipping easier.  It is kind of like how on a train, there is a little slack in the connections between each car so when the engine begins pulling, it only has to over come the inertia of one car at a time.  With this zipper, you don't have to overcome the tension of the bag's resistance to pulling and the zipper's resistance at once.  It is just the zipper.  I don't know if this makes sense.  I have been celebrating the holiday.

 

Older style zippers have that as well. It's actually a feature where the zip will lock itself when the tag isn't being pulled. You'll also see it on many jackets and even sometimes jean's fly's. There's some kind of ratchet inside the zipper housing that locks itself onto the zipper tread. When you grab the tag and pull, it lifts that ratchet so the zipper can move. Usually it only locks the zipper from moving in one direction. 

 

It's there so the zipper won't fall down on its own. If you're wearing a jacket zipped up, the zip head won't just slide down to the bottom. You have to grab it first. 

 

All I have to say is subnet FW1516... everyone should should be saving right now...

 

I hope that's because there's more styles, not because they're more expensive.

[cmdR]

The new zippers are sewn edge to edge and thus more water-resistant, and metal is more durable, at least in theory. There is also the haptic and sonic feedback from pulling metal zippers that can be somewhat pleasurable.

 

I hesitate to discount or make any conclusions before actually trying out the items, because for Acronym, especially of late, function is form. The proof is in the wearing and using. 

 

 

 

Just my two cents...

 

All I have to say is subnet FW1516... everyone should should be saving right now...

 

 

 

That's not saying much because that's pretty much every season for me lol. 

Edited March 18, 2015 by cmdR

[Inkinsurgent]

wisdom

 

Good write-up. I employ the same principles in design. I think the metallic zippers are part of a thematic thing this season that also led to the garment dying and raw edges – a more stylistic used future/dystopian stuff and less tactical aesthetic. I actually think the whole rick owens/matrix/apocalyptic aesthetic is uninspired and not very distinctive, but i'm sure it'll be a sales success. 

[TaoSpace]

From my side I've had nothing but trouble with the old plastic zipper. It got stuck very easily for me and the new one does not. Errolson did at some point mention these were meant as "improved zippers".

[cmdR]

Good write-up. I employ the same principles in design. I think the metallic zippers are part of a thematic thing this season that also led to the garment dying and raw edges – a more stylistic used future/dystopian stuff and less tactical aesthetic. I actually think the whole rick owens/matrix/apocalyptic aesthetic is uninspired and not very distinctive, but i'm sure it'll be a sales success. 

 

That's the general take away I hear, but I find current Acronym to be closer in spirit and ethos to Yohji Yamamoto than Rick Owens. This season's looks and silhouettes are more Asian and rooted in martial arts more than ever. And I would love to be introduced to a brand that is more inspiring and distinctive than Acronym right now. 

[@gnrsn]

Hey guys, I'm back for another material question:

 

Any reason we're not seeing -E variants of the items for this season? What are the downsides with the Epic cotton? Any benefits with -E compared to -S and -CH ?

[gamo]

This has been discussed so many times already. Search the thread.

[Inkinsurgent]

That's the general take away I hear, but I find current Acronym to be closer in spirit and ethos to Yohji Yamamoto than Rick Owens. This season's looks and silhouettes are more Asian and rooted in martial arts more than ever. And I would love to be introduced to a brand that is more inspiring and distinctive than Acronym right now. 

 

When acronym is releasing windstopper dress shirts or gore-tex remixes of cold war military jackets, or geometrically patterned schoeller pants they're as distinctive as a brand can get.

 

When they're releasing oversized, garment dyed, rare hemline tank tops like literally every designer brand of the past five years, not so much.

Edited March 18, 2015 by Inkinsurgent

[jbob24]

Damn, loving these p17s! I was kicking myself the last few months when the 15s went out of stock and was real worried these would be too cropped but that is not the case   They're just the right length to not get in the way when I'm walking around barefoot and they bunch up on the calves very nicely when I want shorts.  I wear a lot of high tops and the hem sits right behind the tongue.  5'11" and a size L btw

 

The shirts on the other hand...  I gotta agree with what inkinsurgent was getting at up there, it feels like a piece of clothing made by someone else.  Because it was.  As far as I could tell, all the NMN stuff is made in Italy by Nemen, right?  I can see that to some they are kind of a "me too" thing but ACR is reaching out and doing more with other companies and that's something I find refreshing With that said, I don't love the tshirt and it's likely going back to bodega.  I don't have the kind of money that I can be dropping bills on cotton tshirts that don't push all my buttons 

 

FYI i know on the site they say to order up a size but I got my regular L and it fits fine, I guess maybe it'll shrink or something, Tank was ordered in XL

 

P10-ch and tank top should be here tomorrow, I'm excited to try the new CH material everyone else got to see last season.  The regular p10 and p9 don't fit me anymore due to lifting and whatnot and I'm hoping the ch has the "give" I need to wear some badass ACR pants again

 

Is there going to be a video? That's always my favorite part     

Ok, I've got like 2 hrs of sleep in the last 2 days, I'm rambling... Off to bed! 

Edited March 18, 2015 by jbob24

[cmdR]

When acronym is releasing windstopper dress shirts or gore-tex remixes of cold war military jackets, or geometrically patterned schoeller pants they're as distinctive as a brand can get.

 

When they're releasing oversized, garment dyed, rare hemline tank tops like literally every designer brand of the past five years, not so much.

 

These may be garment-dyed etc. but the patterning is still distinctly ACR. And the garment dyeing here is an elaborate, destructive process that's unlike anything I've ever seen before, just take a look at the J43-K. It exceeds the stuff they do at Stone Island, the house built on garment dyeing. 

 

And with regards to the ACR x NEMEN collab, it's almost like a mini-collection within a collection. The geometrically patterned Schoeller pant still exists; the ACR take on the venerable field jacket is still being offered. And as an ACR user, why would I need another windstopper dress shirt when I just bought one last summer? I appreciate everyday staples as much as the one-off J41-GT experimentations and the remixing of cold war-era jackets. As for the oversize comment, simple size down and get a more fitted look. I think you are trying to hard to be negative here and honestly I don't understand why. 

[Dolphinski]

Hey guys, I'm back for another material question:

 

Any reason we're not seeing -E variants of the items for this season? What are the downsides with the Epic cotton? Any benefits with -E compared to -S and -CH ?

 

As mentioned, lots of info on this thread discussing this but in a nutshell, you get what you pay for.

[Appleseed]

ZIPPERGATE2k15®

 

I don't think Inkinsurgent is being overly negative - but just pointing out the disparate nature of the ACR X NMN SS15 stuff (which I’m totally reading as a capsule) and the majority of the previous referenced pattern blocks. Decon/recon with a minor focus on material distress vs. not-so-subtle upgrading of mil./activewear. Ideologically they’re coming from different places and end up with very different product.

 

Anyway - I’ll await the return of logo’d sleeve hitches and waistbands.

[Inkinsurgent]

 just pointing out the disparate nature of the ACR X NMN SS15 stuff 

 

this. 

[Flipflop214]

I picked up another LA3-DS @darkside, had to size up due to weight gain..smh. I must say, the mother of pearl buttons (or I think they are) are a nice touch compared to the cheap plastic ones on the last drop.

I tried on the j29-ch at darkside and I wasn't too impressed with the feel and material..not enough to drop 1k plus on the jacket. Wish I was able to handle the t shirt collab with nemen.. Curious to know how it looks on real ppl and not models, etc. post em pics!

[drgitlin]

Hey guys, I'm back for another material question:

 

Any reason we're not seeing -E variants of the items for this season? What are the downsides with the Epic cotton? Any benefits with -E compared to -S and -CH ?

Fades, wears holes, the water repellency isn't very good. Don't know if that's the actual reason why we don't see it any more but I wouldn't be surprised.

[cmdR]

Fades, wears holes, the water repellency isn't very good. Don't know if that's the actual reason why we don't see it any more but I wouldn't be surprised.

 

They ran out of the fabric with the last P10-E release.