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Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

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That looks really good - and I think it’s a flexible design with that collar shape, it works well in a more formal setting

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Agreed, if I needed to I could definitely dress it up despite the pocket design.
The fabric has a nice weight to it, and glad that this one is already washed as well.
But with the Texas governor rolling back the mask mandate yesterday while having one of the worst vaccine rollouts per capita...I doubt I'll have any reason to dress up soon. :rolleyes:

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10 minutes ago, Broark said:

Agreed, if I needed to I could definitely dress it up despite the pocket design.
The fabric has a nice weight to it, and glad that this one is already washed as well.
But with the Texas governor rolling back the mask mandate yesterday while having one of the worst vaccine rollouts per capita...I doubt I'll have any reason to dress up soon. :rolleyes:

... hence the reason for my endless garden fence WAYWT nonsense :dry:

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I really need to get into some FW shirting......

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Lovely shirt and fit! That looks like a fairly hefty fabric.

My (very limited) experience with FW is that you really need to check the measurements because the mix of fabric and cuts makes the sizing difficult to predict. Not that different in that respect from other brands.

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I’d disagree with that being a 17 in every shirt, a 40 in every jacket and a 32 in every pair of trousers (except my 5P jeans because I like to get an inch extra by choice) :sleep::smile:

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I have a few Union Special shirts that all fit very well in a 17, but my one Vanishing West shirt in a 17 1/2 is also just about perfect—seems to vary between subbrands (or maybe this is just a fluke)

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Fit is both taste and tailoring - everyone wears their clothes as they want. What I’ve noticed though is that many don’t do as Joss suggests, and imo they ignore the cut and (usually) default immediately to p-2-p measurements.

ACD49C3F-4CFC-451B-8041-B57FC6433BA7.png.9114696c2d4acb434202f51bba2400c7.png

Some of my Vanishing West shirts (Jesse, Billy etc.) are a slimmer cut - almost body fit ... but that’s exactly what they’re supposed to be. The collar fit is the same as the Union Specials or other sub-brands. The Union Specials are often a little bit wider in the body but again that’s exactly the design because they’re sometimes a style to be worn over another garment, or being a working shirt a bit looser for comfort and movement.

The reason I’m a 17 is that I’m the pink outline (and take that with a pitch of salt but it demonstrates the thought) and you can see each cut from slim through ‘regular’ through loose, but the collar and sleeve is always consistent and therefore a ‘fit’

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For what it’s worth, the collar on my 17 1/2 flannel Painted Desert is tighter than the collar on my 17 cotton / linen Neal, as are the shoulders

The cuts are different, and I embrace that in choosing how to wear the different shirts—but, even beyond that, the sizing is not consistent

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Personally I like a specific fit regardless of the intended use, and I'm likely to wear a smaller size in workwear-inspired shirts than some other series.

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8 minutes ago, julian-wolf said:

For what it’s worth, the collar on my 17 1/2 flannel Painted Desert is tighter than the collar on my 17 cotton / linen Neal, as are the shoulders

The cuts are different, and I embrace that in choosing how to wear the different shirts—but, even beyond that, the sizing is not consistent

Which flannel?

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I think it’s the #1333008, cotton / wool mix

Based on the puckering on the cotton chambray lining at the neck and yoke, it seems like the fabric shrank quite a bit in the initial wash (haven’t seen any appreciable shrinkage since)

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Yeah, the 1333008 is the wool serge shirt - it’s very similar in fit to the Jesse, Billy and the rest of that series. A slim cut but it sounds like it’s also shrunk a good bit.

The collar is more formal than the Neal which has a softer almost unstructured collar, so it’s a bit apples and oranges. I wouldn’t expect the shoulders to be the same give the very different cuts - the sleeves are much slimmer in the painted desert too - but I still wear a 17 in those and a 17 in the Neal (and the slightly different Bakehead).

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On 2/16/2021 at 7:12 PM, JDelage said:

Not yet... The 17 is just a bit too big so I want to see how the sz 16 reacts. If after a cold wash it gets too small then I'll keep the 17. 

31 minutes ago, JDelage said:

Personally I like a specific fit regardless of the intended use, and I'm likely to wear a smaller size in workwear-inspired shirts than some other series.

 

E843395C-30CF-43A6-A47C-41D3D8B08FC9.gif

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Makes sense. I also expect that you and I may like our shirts to fit differently, or are limited by different minimum / maximum acceptable measurements in different areas (or maybe it’s just me fighting against the variety of intended fits & you accepting them)

All I really look at when sizing shirts is the shoulders, neck, and sleeves—those need to fit well to be wearable; the rest of the cut is up to the designer / manufacturer to get right

Given the differences in style, it’s possible that I “should” be wearing a 17 1/2 in everything they make—but I do like how my Union Special shirts fit as-is, and I’m sure I couldn’t fit into the Painted Desert if it was a half size smaller…go figure

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It’s all of what you say - you choose your ‘fit’ in much the same way I do, but you probably ‘wear’ them differently.

I’ve bought shirts from a lot of different brands (by that I mean the brands on this forum) and eventually I’ve got rid of them all. Some of the ‘fits’ were decent, some were challenging, and some were just plain wrong - I’m looking at you Christophe - ultimately I’ve found FW shirts to be the most consistent (accepting all the points made by yourself and Joss). I’ve got 117 in all cuts and fabrics and only the cotton/linen Brakeman didn’t work ... and that’s because FW decided to experiment with the warp and weft and they fucked up.

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A quick comparison of a slim, regular and full cut - all Size 17

Untitled-4.jpg

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I tend to stay away from anything slim because the shoulder/back usually is too tight and I hate feeling like the Hulk whenever I move. 
I do need to give fw shirting a try tho 

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3 minutes ago, lee porter said:

Duke did you say you have 117 fw shirts 

Yes

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I am in no way suprised. Lovely pairs, especially the specials. I love my pair and in some ways they are the most accurate first glance Levis repros l own.

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What's the difference between the two? The Specials' arcs look more like modern Levi's arcs

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Posted (edited)
1 minute ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

What's the difference between the two? The Specials' arcs look more like modern Levi's arcs

The arcs on the specials are two tone, one yellow one orange. 

I'm sure there are others @Duke Mantee ?

Edited by Dr_Heech

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52 minutes ago, Dr_Heech said:

The arcs on the specials are two tone, one yellow one orange. 

I'm sure there are others @Duke Mantee ?

The specials (2006) are indeed a very Levi-esque arc but in two colours - but they are also completely different in cut. The specials are much closer to what Freewheelers call their 601xx 1947, but the older (2002) 601xx are slim cut, and although the exact model is not stated I’d suggest similar to 1966 - which would also tie into the Bootleggers ideology. 

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DK1IaCS.jpgiKVyMCW.jpgpnDRrWY.jpgVK6kKXM.jpgwash your jeans often   
mine are good example. 
I wash every 2-3 weeks and use a dryer sometimes... 
they’ve gotten to that point where after a wash today I was like. Wow. These really came to life all of the sudden 
 

 

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Sorry if this is wrong place for my post. I'm considering either the McCoys or Freewheelers N-1 for winter outerware. Can anybody comment on the differents between them, the fit, construction, etc..? 

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Never owned the FW N-1, only the B-15 briefly. Have the McCoys N-1 SPL with the soft and comfortable mouton collar — great jacket, runs big, and no itch. 

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The FW N-1 is a trimmer cut than the RMC. Neither are accurate in that respect. FW have released about half a dozen version over the last few years and the fabric has been updated each year (and is radically different from the old Bootleggers jacket material), I think RMC introduced a new fabric for their recent special.

Construction-wise there’s probably not enough of a difference to concern yourself with - and those details aren’t for here.

FW jacket (newer versions) is 3 layer; shell, inter liner, lining - I don’t think the RMC is (I owned one about 6-7 years ago but shamefully I never investigated), I’m sure someone can confirm

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