Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

7 hours ago, owlofminerva said:

(Sorry to respond to such an old post; hopefully that's kosher.)

Hi, Duke.  How did you size the Jackson jacket/vest/pants?  I just got the ensemble from Speedway and while I really dig the details and the fabric, it is VERY baggy.  Shoulders on the jacket are perfect, as is the waist on the trousers, so I think I chose the right size, and I was expecting a full cut, but this is maybe a bit too full for my tastes.  In the fit pics I've seen you post here, it looks like the suit fits you very well.  Did you get everything tailored?

I’m a Size 40 in all FW jackets, and although my waistline seems to be expanding I am/was a Size 32 in all FW pants (except the Lot601XX which I size to 33 because I like how they hang) and finally a Size 42 in vests because I like the flexibility of wearing them looser or cinching them.

The Jackson trousers are loose fitting with quite a heavy taper - I don’t think that shows very well in some photographs. The jacket is a Sack Coat and is almost A-line. It sounds like you got the correct sizes since you got a fit on shoulders and waist. I eventually got my trousers shortened to ankle length, they drape nicely that way, but no other tailoring was necessary.

Can you post some pics?

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

Here we go again:

Freewheelers ‘Lot 469’ Double Square Dot Wabash, Cotton Twill, Black #1421003

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

Freewheelers ‘Trailblazer’ Jacket, Heavy Weight Moleskin, Khaki #1031013

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

Freewheelers’M-1941’ Field Jacket, Vintage Compact Chino Cloth, Bark Brown #1421022

[Broark 13,227]

Their M-41 is one that I really like, hope it makes another appearance someday.
Jeef over on Denimbro had the olive one and I remember really liking how it looked.

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

Freewheelers ‘Westinghouse’ Sack Coat, Vintage Yarn-Dyed Oxford, Natural #1541094

[CSL 990]

I like it in that light color.

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

Freewheelers Military Style Working Parka, Vintage Cotton/Nylon Ripstop with Thinsulate Interlining, Olive Drab, #1521001

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

8 minutes ago, Broark said:

Their M-41 is one that I really like, hope it makes another appearance someday.
Jeef over on Denimbro had the olive one and I remember really liking how it looked.

Quite a few variants were produced - it’s possible there might be some in your size

[Broark 13,227]

11 minutes ago, Duke Mantee said:

Quite a few variants were produced - it’s possible there might be some in your size

Haven't looked in awhile, there were some 42s floating around but no 44 last I checked.
I like the olive non-stencil version.

[julian-wolf 4,239]

36 minutes ago, Duke Mantee said:

Freewheelers ‘Westinghouse’ Sack Coat, Vintage Yarn-Dyed Oxford, Natural #1541094

What are the yarns dyed with then?

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

22 minutes ago, julian-wolf said:

What are the yarns dyed with then?

Natural 

[owlofminerva 138]

14 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

I’m a Size 40 in all FW jackets, and although my waistline seems to be expanding I am/was a Size 32 in all FW pants (except the Lot601XX which I size to 33 because I like how they hang) and finally a Size 42 in vests because I like the flexibility of wearing them looser or cinching them.

The Jackson trousers are loose fitting with quite a heavy taper - I don’t think that shows very well in some photographs. The jacket is a Sack Coat and is almost A-line. It sounds like you got the correct sizes since you got a fit on shoulders and waist. I eventually got my trousers shortened to ankle length, they drape nicely that way, but no other tailoring was necessary.

Can you post some pics?

Here are some fit pics.  IDK, maybe I should have gone down a size?

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

For me if you’re wearing the trousers with braces (suspenders) they’ll hang well but you’ve got room. The sleeves are too long but not difficult to get adjusted and again wearing it sack coat style, ie baggy, it’s going to be fine when you’re wearing more than a tee.

Many years ago I tried the Jackson in 42 chest / 34 waist - if memory serves it fitted like yours. That’s real old timey working class style, but I wanted to compromise that for a slightly different look so went down to a 40c/32w ... it’s possible you could do the same. I guess it’s down to the style you want.

Looser fit 

 

or more fitted (my fit and dismiss the denim layer in the first pic ... or go down that road?)

 

Edited August 7, 2020 by Duke Mantee

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

Freewheelers British Columbia, Point Blanket, Wool, Turquoise x Charcoal #1031006

Edited August 8, 2020 by Duke Mantee

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

Freewheelers Westinghouse, Vintage 10.5oz Military Denim, Indigo #1541095

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

Freewheelers ‘Dylan’ Original Medium Weight Moleskin, Cotton, Yarn Dyed Deep Black #1521008

Edited August 8, 2020 by Duke Mantee

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

Freewheelers ‘Brodovitch’ Original Heavy Weight Buffalo Check, Wool, Blue x Black #1241020

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

Freewheelers ‘Daredevil’ Vintage Serge, 60% Wool / 40% Cotton, Lagoon #1521029

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

Freewheelers ‘Red Wood’ British Millerain (with Buffalo Check Melton lining and Thinsulate inter liner), Waxed Cotton, Olive Drab #1431026

[owlofminerva 138]

13 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

For me if you’re wearing the trousers with braces (suspenders) they’ll hang well but you’ve got room. The sleeves are too long but not difficult to get adjusted and again wearing it sack coat style, ie baggy, it’s going to be fine when you’re wearing more than a tee.

Many years ago I tried the Jackson in 42 chest / 34 waist - if memory serves it fitted like yours. That’s real old timey working class style, but I wanted to compromise that for a slightly different look so went down to a 40c/32w ... it’s possible you could do the same. I guess it’s down to the style you want.

 

Thanks, Duke, this is very helpful.  I may have been better off sizing down, but I'm not seeing this for sale in the smaller sizes anywhere (that said, my "searching Japanese webstores" skills are pretty weak, especially with Rakuten Global Marketplace gone).  So I'm going to see what a tailor can do.

[MJF9 5,943]

@owlofminerva Obviously Duke's your man for FW.... fwiw I like your fit and think it's in keeping with the intended style. The jacket fits well in the shoulders - therefore I can't see a smaller jacket size working. The sleeves are all I'd let the tailor loose on from what I can see. I personally like room in trousers when worn with suspenders and I think suspenders would bring this outfit to life. Why not put some good wear into the outfit first to see how it drapes to your body, before deciding on any intervention from a tailor which would likely be irreversible.

Edited August 8, 2020 by MJF9

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

1 hour ago, MJF9 said:

@owlofminerva Obviously Duke's your man for FW.... fwiw I like your fit and think it's in keeping with the intended style. The jacket fits well in the shoulders - therefore I can't see a smaller jacket size working. The sleeves are all I'd let the tailor loose on from what I can see. I personally like room in trousers when worn with suspenders and I think suspenders would bring this outfit to life. Why not put some good wear into the outfit first to see how it drapes to your body, before deciding on any intervention from a tailor which would likely be irreversible.

Said it better than me - sizing is very personal and it defines your style

Edited August 8, 2020 by Duke Mantee

[MJF9 5,943]

You've demonstrated the spectrum here Duke which shows how a range of sizing can work well.

Tangential but related, I remember a post from Roy (maybe on his IG) where he wears his jeans in three sizes. One size down, his 'usual' size and one up. All three worked and worked well. All it came down to, as you say, and as did he, was personal preference.

Edited August 8, 2020 by MJF9

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

A quick overview of the last batch - not many more to go (in jackets/coats at least)

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

Some waistcoats/vests

Freewheelers ‘Westinghouse’ Late 1800s Engineer’s Notched Collar Vest, Vintage Yarn-Dyed Oxford, Natural #1521026

Edited August 9, 2020 by Duke Mantee

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

Freewheelers ‘Westinghouse’ Late 1800s Engineer’s Notched Collar Vest, Vintage 10.5oz Military Denim, Indigo #15210267

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

Freewheelers ‘Trackwalker’ Original Jacquard Stripe, Old Blue x Cream x Old Gold, #1521032

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

Freewheelers ‘Jackson’ Late 1800’s Tailored Hunting Vest, Yarn Dyed Original Heavyweight Moleskin, Deep Black #1121005

[Duke Mantee 8,130]

Freewheelers ‘Carnegie’ Vest, Original Heavy Weight Cotton/Wool Kersey Tweed, Grained Black #1431018