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Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

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@the shivman Yeah, same here.

I was reading the Gandy Dancer and Bakehead fabric descriptions from Genco, the chain pattern discharge print is achieved differently than the wabash fabric. The pattern is achieved by dyeing post vs pre dyed twill? I am not that knowledgable about this. I thought wabash stripe is achieved by applying dye resist after the yarn is woven into the twill fabric, not before. Maybe it's lost in translation. Can anyone shed some light on this?

Google translate

"The fabric is made from 10.5 ounce cotton twill with a striped discharge print of a chain pattern. (cotton 100%)
When making this fabric, I tried applying the discharge print of this chain pattern stripe to the conventional Wabash type dyed twill fabric, and it was said that the chain pattern was too fine to print cleanly. After trial and error, by performing a dye-printing with a stripe pattern on a post-dyed twill, that is, a twill that is dyed at the stage of the fabric, not at the stage of the yarn, instead of the pre-dyed twill base such as the Wabash system. , It is said that it is now possible to produce such a beautiful chain pattern.
So, at first glance it looks like a Wabash system, but I think that you can enjoy a different discoloration feeling than the Wabash system.
(Probably the color fading is slower than that of Black Wabash.)"

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2 hours ago, Toegun said:

Dude, for home use It’s solid footwear. 

I know, l'm only pulling your leg (think l may have lockdown fever) but just thinking with a name like toegun, you've sort of shot yourself in the foot there :P.

Maybe we should start a 'shoes that are more comfortable to wear at home during the covid crisis rather than an expensive pair of engineer boots ' thread? 

 

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^ Just got a pair of Birkenstocks in today and I have no regrets whatsoever

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10 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

Freewheelers Locomotive Engineer, Original Random Stripe Chambray, Indigo x Coral #1223007

1223007 Locomotive Engineer.jpg

Some of those really scream for a detail fabric shot. When you put that website together, maybe...  :-)

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8 hours ago, Snake said:

@Duke Mantee Looking at all your work shirt pictures reminds me of the issue of pocket placement with other brands. Some brands place the pockets way too high on the chest. I maybe alone in this but it looks awkward aesthetically.

It’s a modern thing to lift the pocket - they place them more like a dress shirt because the pocket really doesn’t have a function, but I agree it doesn’t look right on a work shirt style

6 hours ago, the shivman said:

I'm surprised they never made the electrician in any other colors.

Me too

4 hours ago, Snake said:

@the shivman Yeah, same here.

I was reading the Gandy Dancer and Bakehead fabric descriptions from Genco, the chain pattern discharge print is achieved differently than the wabash fabric. The pattern is achieved by dyeing post vs pre dyed twill? I am not that knowledgable about this. I thought wabash stripe is achieved by applying dye resist after the yarn is woven into the twill fabric, not before. Maybe it's lost in translation. Can anyone shed some light on this?

TBH I don’t like the chain pattern - it looked fake, too clean and I have way too much wabash to want to add to that, but I’ve asked the question ...

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@JDelage maybe ...

But happy to oblige any particular detail you want - just ask (the shots I’m posting at are really just for expediency and consistency)

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4 hours ago, Dr_Heech said:

I know, l'm only pulling your leg (think l may have lockdown fever) but just thinking with a name like toegun, you've sort of shot yourself in the foot there :P.

Maybe we should start a 'shoes that are more comfortable to wear at home during the covid crisis rather than an expensive pair of engineer boots ' thread? 

 

I seem to remember you were a bit limited on the footwear front not so long ago Doc :tongue:

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1 minute ago, Duke Mantee said:

I seem to remember you were a bit limited on the footwear front not so long ago Doc :tongue:

Yes you're right Mike, and my feet kindly remind me of it every day  :(

 

 

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15 minutes ago, Duke Mantee said:

@JDelage maybe ...

But happy to oblige any particular detail you want - just ask (the shots I’m posting at are really just for expediency and consistency)

Thank you, that's very generous. I was going to ask, but of course I can do the leg work myself. Here's a detail shot of said #1223007, thanks to Old Goat on Rakuten. Lovely fabric:

freewheelers1223007e.jpg

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13 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

Freewheelers Locomotive Engineer, Original Random Stripe Chambray, Indigo x Coral #1223007

Apologies if a daft question Duke, but what is the extra button hole for? Is it to button slightly lower in warm weather and not look indecent? Ever use it?

Question overload! 

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Type A-1 Civilian, US Navy Style Work Shirt, Allan + Flat Toe Pecos (for sale)

A46A74E9-47D6-471C-BA9E-A65CE64BE931.jpeg

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6 minutes ago, unders said:

Apologies if a daft question Duke, but what is the extra button hole for? Is it to button slightly lower in warm weather and not look indecent? Ever use it?

Question overload! 

It’s a hole to attach a pocket watch chain mate - old fashioned stuff, before the days of iPhones and @Flash type jewel encrusted bling :laugh2:

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Time to kick off the second half ...    (btw I’m delighted folk are still chatting about other stuff and not allowing this just to be a dull catalogue of pics)

Freewheelers Serviceman, Vintage Chambray, Grained Charcoal #1223019

1223019 Serviceman Charcoal.jpg

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Freewheelers Bakehead, Vintage Finish Chambray, Indigo Check #1323012

1323012 Bakehead.jpg

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Freewheelers Meiler, Vintage Cotton Check, Natural x Blue #1323016

1323016 Meiler Blue.jpg

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Freewheelers Oil Filler, Vintage Herringbone Twill, Jet Black #1323028

1323028 Oil Filler.jpg

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Freewheelers Chanute, Wool, Bordeaux x Burgundy #1333003

1333003 Chanute.jpg

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Freewheelers Conductor, Original Jacquard Stripe, Old Gold x Cream x Old Blue #1333011

1333011 Conductor Gold.jpg

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3 minutes ago, Duke Mantee said:

Freewheelers Chanute, Wool, Bordeaux x Burgundy #1333003

1333003 Chanute.jpg

Think this is my favourite so far , looks a lovely deep red 

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13 hours ago, Snake said:

@the shivman Yeah, same here.

I was reading the Gandy Dancer and Bakehead fabric descriptions from Genco, the chain pattern discharge print is achieved differently than the wabash fabric. The pattern is achieved by dyeing post vs pre dyed twill? I am not that knowledgable about this. I thought wabash stripe is achieved by applying dye resist after the yarn is woven into the twill fabric, not before. Maybe it's lost in translation. Can anyone shed some light on this?

Google translate

"The fabric is made from 10.5 ounce cotton twill with a striped discharge print of a chain pattern. (cotton 100%)
When making this fabric, I tried applying the discharge print of this chain pattern stripe to the conventional Wabash type dyed twill fabric, and it was said that the chain pattern was too fine to print cleanly. After trial and error, by performing a dye-printing with a stripe pattern on a post-dyed twill, that is, a twill that is dyed at the stage of the fabric, not at the stage of the yarn, instead of the pre-dyed twill base such as the Wabash system. , It is said that it is now possible to produce such a beautiful chain pattern.
So, at first glance it looks like a Wabash system, but I think that you can enjoy a different discoloration feeling than the Wabash system.
(Probably the color fading is slower than that of Black Wabash.)"

Normal FW wabash is two sided discharge print on yarn-dyed twill. The chain pattern is much too fine to do this because yarn dying does not impact the core of the yarn leaving it white (or whatever the original fabric colour was) and therefore it looks like it ‘bleeds’ - which you can see looking closely at standard wabash.

So what FW did was come up with a new white twill fabric and deep dye it dark navy - if you cut the threads/yarn, you won’t see white unlike their normal wabash twill. It’s also a little bit tighter in weave. Both of these conditions allow them to use the same technique as the moleskin discharge print giving them a more defined print.

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Unsuccessfully trying to get my phone back in my pocket

Kerouac, Brodovitch, ‘39s and RDT Vincent

95CEC25E-7C44-4179-9161-B9E79B548FA5.jpeg

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Lovely, lovely jacket!

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9 minutes ago, Double 0 Soul said:

That's a damn good looking outfit Mike^

One does one’s best sir :laugh2:

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Numbers 63 - 68 ...

Freewheelers ‘The Skipper’, 5oz Selvage Twill, Indigo x White #1433009

1433009 Skipper Indigo.jpg

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Freewheelers Dylan, Vintage Cordlane, Light Gray x Black #1433011

1433011 Dylan Light Gray.jpg

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Freewheelers Sandlot Baseball Shirt 'Roswell Army Air Field', Vintage Cotton Flannel x Back Satin, Dark Gray x Dark Blue #1523020

1523020 Sandlot.jpg

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Freewheelers Swamper, Vintage Grained Chambray, Indigo Check #1623008

1623008 Swamper Check.jpg

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Freewheelers Delta Blues, Vintage Small Check, Gray #1623013

1623013 Delta Blues Gray.jpg

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Freewheelers Delta Blues, Vintage Small Check, Natural #1623013

1623013 Delta Blues Natural.jpg

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