Jump to content

Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.


rnrswitch

Recommended Posts

The newer denim that’s on my S601xx is definitely much hairier than the 43 and 47 I own. It’s a cool denim. 
@lee porter I believe the 37 is another new denim. But @Duke Mantee will chime in to confirm. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, shredwin_206 said:

The newer denim that’s on my S601xx is definitely much hairier than the 43 and 47 I own. It’s a cool denim. 
@lee porter I believe the 37 is another new denim. But @Duke Mantee will chime in to confirm. 

Is it neppy, with little nubs?
When you run your hand over it, is it smooth or has these little dots?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

New here. Hello. 
Picked up a pair of FW 601RB today. 
I’m working on a Real McCoys Lot 004 right now(221 days in). Planning to finish the 365 in these until I start the FW. 
Anyhow, wanted to try an all black pair next. Thought about the Real McCoys 966BK but already have that fabric in their type 3 jacket. Wanted to try something different. 
Stopped by Desolation Row but they didn’t have the 601RB anymore. I tried on the 601B to find out what size I need and ordered online here in Japan. 
 

they seem quite a bit wider than my Lot004 but I wanted to try something wider anyways. 
 

Freewheelers seems to have a lot of followers here. What makes them special? What can I expect from this pair vs lets say Real McCoys?

Total newbie. Only on my 2nd pair of raws. 1st was Oni denim, which was disappointing in terms of construction even though its all poly cotton stitches. 
 

thanks in advance. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, vlad_III said:

New here. Hello. 
Picked up a pair of FW 601RB today. 
I’m working on a Real McCoys Lot 004 right now(221 days in). Planning to finish the 365 in these until I start the FW. 
Anyhow, wanted to try an all black pair next. Thought about the Real McCoys 966BK but already have that fabric in their type 3 jacket. Wanted to try something different. 
Stopped by Desolation Row but they didn’t have the 601RB anymore. I tried on the 601B to find out what size I need and ordered online here in Japan. 
 

they seem quite a bit wider than my Lot004 but I wanted to try something wider anyways. 
 

Freewheelers seems to have a lot of followers here. What makes them special? What can I expect from this pair vs lets say Real McCoys?

Total newbie. Only on my 2nd pair of raws. 1st was Oni denim, which was disappointing in terms of construction even though its all poly cotton stitches. 
 

thanks in advance. 

From Oni to FW in 3 pairs. It was fast.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, vlad_III said:

… they seem quite a bit wider than my Lot004 but I wanted to try something wider anyways. 
 

Freewheelers seems to have a lot of followers here. What makes them special? What can I expect from this pair vs lets say Real McCoys?

Total newbie. Only on my 2nd pair of raws. 1st was Oni denim, which was disappointing in terms of construction even though its all poly cotton stitches. 
 

thanks in advance. 

I wouldn’t say the 601B (or RB) is a wide cut - straight leg at most. Anyway it probably doesn’t make much sense to compare the patterns of 2 completely different jeans - the Lot 004 are most definitely a slim cut.

Freewheelers probably aren’t more special than many of brands, but they are very demanding of the factories they use - custom threads, custom buttons etc.  Small details that make the difference. Their patterns are also very good - their pattern maker has worked for some very prestigious labels. Plus they’re not run by gangsters and wide boys which may or may not be seen to be a plus point :laugh:

BTW - none of the jeans you’ve talked about are ‘raw’

Edited by Duke Mantee
Link to comment
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, Duke Mantee said:

I wouldn’t say the 601B (or RB) is a wide cut - straight leg at most. Anyway it probably doesn’t make much sense to compare the patterns of 2 completely different jeans - the Lot 004 are most definitely a slim cut.

Freewheelers probably aren’t more special than many of brands, but they are very demanding of the factories they use - custom threads, custom buttons etc.  Small details that make the difference. Their patterns are also very good - their pattern maker has worked for some very prestigious labels. Plus they’re not run by gangsters and wide boys which may or may not be seen to be a plus point :laugh:

BTW - none of the jeans you’ve talked about are ‘raw’

Thanks for the info on Freewheelers. I wish they shared more about the brand and details somewhere. 

I should’ve said selvage and not pre faded or stone washed. The Oni and FW both said “one wash”.  Lot 004 was definitely loom state dry, which I thought is raw. 
 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, vlad_III said:

Thanks for the info on Freewheelers. I wish they shared more about the brand and details somewhere. 

I should’ve said selvage and not pre faded or stone washed. The Oni and FW both said “one wash”.  Lot 004 was definitely loom state dry, which I thought is raw. 
 

My mistake, and my apologies - sorry - I didn’t know Lot 004 were loomstate, I had thought they had gone through the singeing process etc instead of being built from freshly woven fabric.

What kind information are you looking for?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

My mistake, and my apologies - sorry - I didn’t know Lot 004 were loomstate, I had thought they had gone through the singeing process etc instead of being built from freshly woven fabric.

What kind information are you looking for?

At least thats what they told me when I bought them. My Japanese is not 100% so … but in general this type of info is what I’m looking for and the info about the details on FW denim and their cuts. 

you mentioned custom yarn for stitching. Any reference to that?

The buttons on indigo and black jeans are different. The indigo ones looks like they have some layer on top. 
 

Any guides to silhouettes?

 

I noticed rivets on some models are very rounded and clean and others had yarn poking thru. 
 

thanks

Edited by vlad_III
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, vlad_III said:

At least thats what they told me when I bought them. My Japanese is not 100% so … but in general this type of info is what I’m looking for and the info about the details on FW denim and their cuts. 

you mentioned custom yarn for stitching. Any reference to that?

The buttons on indigo and black jeans are different. The indigo ones looks like they have some layer on top. 
 

Any guides to silhouettes?

 

I noticed rivets on some models are very rounded and clean and others had yarn poking thru. 
 

thanks

Most of the shops like McFly and Genco put fairly copious descriptions on each product page - in fact the detail on those goes far beyond the descriptions I’ve seen for most other similar Japanese brands. That’s a pretty good starting point.

Compare and contrast:

https://www.genco-clothing.com/item/2232012-DMOW/

v.

https://www.realmccoys-nagoya.co.jp/?pid=144514688
https://www.barnstormer.jp/view/item/000000000386

Regards the custom yarn, in honesty, it’s not often mentioned because it’s a standard for FW. Most jeans makers will specify the colour, material and sewing pitch, and the factory being employed will select what they think is best suited to the process - saves a bit of time and money for the designer, and with the factory being able to use their own stocks (or buy from their own suppliers) saves a bit of time and money for them too. FW on the other hand dictate precisely what they want by having the threads made up to their spec.

Buttons are different on each significant cut - this is to make them accurate/authentic to the period of those particular jeans. Some are steel and copper, some are just steel, some have an anti-rust coating and so on.

Even the laurel wreath buttons which can be bought everywhere were deemed unsatisfactory by FW for the war denim and so they had their own make specifically. Personally I found it difficult to see the difference and as I said to others at the time, it didn’t make the jeans better, just more ‘Freewheelers’.

I made this graphic to compare the different cuts and posted it here previously - you should read this thread anyway:

 

33374644-219D-4AFD-B528-DC764DAF3AD0.jpeg
I’m not entirely sure what you are asking by way of rivets - this?

 

A66C13E6-FFCB-4808-A2CB-1C214928132F.jpeg
 

Let me ask you a couple questions:

1.   Does historical accuracy play a part in your selection of raw denim?

2.  If you are about to start wearing your third pair of raw denims what details (buttons, rivets, threads etc) led you to choose the pairs you have?

Edited by Duke Mantee
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, vlad_III said:

[..]

Any guides to silhouettes?

[..]

Check Feb or March of this thread

Edited: Funny, I referred back to Duke's table the very moment Duke posted it again... B)

Edited by Talan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...