The Flat Head

[mrman 451]

^I'd recommend you to follow the advice of those who have been in the game longer than you and know their stuff. Flat Head denim is known to shrink a lot and if not done before wearing it will shrink in subsequent washes and screw your hard earned fades. Do you want that to happen? Two proper washing cycles in 40C water should do the trick and after that you are good to go.

[i_denim 151]

2 hours ago, mrman said:

^I'd recommend you to follow the advice of those who have been in the game longer than you and know their stuff. Flat Head denim is known to shrink a lot and if not done before wearing it will shrink in subsequent washes and screw your hard earned fades. Do you want that to happen? Two proper washing cycles in 40C water should do the trick and after that you are good to go.

Thanks. Just finished that and hung them to dry now. Let’s see if they still fit.

[tigerstrom 2,914]

29 minutes ago, i_denim said:

Thanks. Just finished that and hung them to dry now. Let’s see if they still fit.

Cool! Keep us updated!

[SmokeStackLightning 546]

3 inches lost on the inseam should be about max shrinkage, another wash won't hurt though. Hope they still work out for you. The denim is great. 

[itsbenhere 2,699]

2nd favorite denim of all time. After RJB...

[SmokeStackLightning 546]

1 hour ago, itsbenhere said:

2nd favorite denim of all time. After RJB...

Which is your favorite? I would like to try their left hand stuff in the future. 

[itsbenhere 2,699]

The LHT looks great too but the zimbabwe RHT that came out with the SEXFHXRJB15s were the first denim where I was really like “WOW” after seeing it faded. I even bought a pair that were way too slim because I liked the denim so much. I actually “settled” for the pioneer denim originally because I thought I couldn’t find that RJB denim in a cut that I liked...

Fast forward 5 years, self edge puts the 105BSPs on sale for $110 and I take the risk. And it’s a cut that I like even more than the 3005, and it’s even more comfortable. So I’m really stoked! They don’t fade as fast as I remembered them fading though. Maybe because these ones aren’t obscenely tight...

[i_denim 151]

6 hours ago, SmokeStackLightning said:

3 inches lost on the inseam should be about max shrinkage, another wash won't hurt though. Hope they still work out for you. The denim is great. 

No further shrinkage anywhere after the 1 hour hot soak and a wash, except the waist is too tight now to button the top one. Should open up in a week or so I guess.

[keybladehero 159]

Pioneer denim still my favourite. The vertical falling on the pioneer seems to be more irregular whereas the RJB vertical falling is like programmed to make it more regular and longer. Anyway I still like them more than denim with cross-hatch texture. It's easy to tell whether is the fabric gonna fade to cross-hatch texture or not if they are super slubby like Strike Gold or Oni. Some of the less slubby fabric such as Stevenson Overall Co, Ooe Yofukuten are more subtle, you can only tell they have the cross-hatch texture after fading them for 6 months. Maybe I'll pick up Conners Sewing Factory WW2 model after retiring my flat head since they have lovely irregular vertical texture too.

Edited March 10, 2018 by keybladehero

[itsbenhere 2,699]

I do say that RJB is my favorite but honestly it might be just because that was always "the one that got away." Flat Head's denim really is just perfect... I think I might prefer the dryer and rougher texture as a fabric but when considering its something that you actually wear the RJB denim is just unbeatable for comfort. I've never had denim this stretchy.

[SmokeStackLightning 546]

I looked up some fade examples and some are just gorgeous. 

I want to wear my 3001's hard though and for awhile. I like the fit a lot and the denim so I'm holding off on new denim awhile I think. Finally nailed the sizing with the Pioneer denim as well. 

I'm off to scout out the RJB thread though.

How do the 3005's look these days?

[Smallrod 505]

Cross post from the DWC thread.  Still damp from a soak earlier today.  1001 since November.  2 soaks, 1 wash. 

[i_denim 151]

Several threads coming out of a brand new pair of FH 3012. Is this a good sign or bad? It could be a sign of good craftsmanship or shoddy quality control, don't know enough about Raw denim to interpret this.

 

[SmokeStackLightning 546]

I've had that happen on my FH button holes before. I wouldn't worry. Same thing with the small irregularity on the fabric in the other shot.

As far as the fly I'm interested in what others have to say. I have extra fabric that looks like it wasn't completely cut off on my one pairs along the rear rise. No cotton strands are coming off it though. 

Edited March 11, 2018 by SmokeStackLightning

[Geeman 3,116]

The middle and bottom pics are nothing to worry about by the look of it. 

The top pic is hard to tell but bits of stray threads/denim are not uncommon and should come away easily?

Hard to tell from the pic

[Niro 1,021]

Getting small irregularities in the denim is the best. Adds character

[Claytonimus 201]

On 2/13/2018 at 12:01 AM, julian-wolf said:

Anyone have experience with this Yahoo Auctions seller? https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/seller/amekichi_ishinoshoji

I have bought from them before. They are legit. I think they get their product from the actual flat head stores - stuff that doesn't sell. Don't quote me on that though

Edited March 13, 2018 by Claytonimus

[enojy 14,276]

On 3/10/2018 at 10:55 PM, i_denim said:

Several threads coming out of a brand new pair of FH 3012. Is this a good sign or bad? It could be a sign of good craftsmanship or shoddy quality control, don't know enough about Raw denim to interpret this.

 

Personally, I'd contact the place you bought them from to ask about an exchange, based on the crotch irregularity alone. If anything, ask their opinion. The one on the leg is fine, as is the button hole. I mean shit, if you get into those jeans enough, the button hole will probably need some fixing down the line anyway.

[i_denim 151]

2 hours ago, enojy said:

Personally, I'd contact the place you bought them from to ask about an exchange, based on the crotch irregularity alone. If anything, ask their opinion. The one on the leg is fine, as is the button hole. I mean shit, if you get into those jeans enough, the button hole will probably need some fixing down the line anyway.

Thanks. I will send those photos to Danny at RivetandHide. I think the button could be fixed, if it ever gives in. There was excess fabric on that crotch part that I chopped off after this picture. I suspect a crotch blowout as I am living in these jeans now.

[Geeman 3,116]

I don't think you have anything to worry about. Every pair of jeans I've bought have bits of loose thread that just comes away, especially around button holes.

This comes with buying artisianal products.

[beautiful_FrEaK 1,668,883]

From what I understand, loose threads are inevitable with The Flat Head’s button whole construction technique, called “Atu Mesu”

[STINGER93 462]

17 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

From what I understand, loose threads are inevitable with The Flat Head’s button whole construction technique, called “Atu Mesu”

@i_denim

Yeah its cause Flat Head use one of those Reece buttonhole machines, which sews the keyhole pattern first before punching a slit in the center, leaving some excess denim between the hole and the stitching (vs. cutting the hole then stitching around the edge, capturing all the denim threads). The excess fabric is supposed to make the buttonholes more sturdy, since it sits around the edge of the stitching and reinforces it. Either way, its nothing to worry about and par for the course on FH jeans.

Edited March 13, 2018 by STINGER93

[i_denim 151]

Thanks, guys.

I've never had a crotch blowout in all the Levi's, G-Stars, Diesels etc over my time on earth. It would be a shame if the first one happens with a Flat Head. Anyway, I am sure a tailor should be able to fix it if it happens.

I actually like the irregularities in this fabric. I was admiring the sun light on them this morning and people had to honk to get me moving at a traffic light.

[Danny @ Rivet & Hide 127,601]

1 hour ago, i_denim said:

Thanks, guys.

I've never had a crotch blowout in all the Levi's, G-Stars, Diesels etc over my time on earth. It would be a shame if the first one happens with a Flat Head. Anyway, I am sure a tailor should be able to fix it if it happens.

I actually like the irregularities in this fabric. I was admiring the sun light on them this morning and people had to honk to get me moving at a traffic light.

Honked in India? Never

[i_denim 151]

I put my FH 3012 in the machine and washed them with detergent this time. They didn't shrink anymore in the waist or inseam but the fabric has softened a lot. Have been wearing them for two weeks now and I think they fit better after this wash. 

I may choose to wear them loose with knee bags and a bigger leg opening than I am used to. This may prepare me for Vintage denim later. Or I may give into a slight taper if all the smug folks at work get to me eventually. I work amongst victims of fashion, literally. I am surrounded by models and photographers and art directors all day at work. That's where I work. And these people have been looking at my Flat Heads like I am some 50 year old dude who got here in a time machine. I am beginning to feel that the joke is on them lately

[tigerstrom 2,914]

Post some fitpics on the jeans!  

 

[Foxy2 8,269]

On 3/11/2018 at 6:55 AM, i_denim said:

Several threads coming out of a brand new pair of FH 3012. Is this a good sign or bad? It could be a sign of good craftsmanship or shoddy quality control, don't know enough about Raw denim to interpret this.

 

the fabric on the crotch seam appears to not being folded neatly - as long as the top stitching caught all the folded denim fabric and did not skip stitches you should be fine.
just check the back/inside for skipped stitches and trim the yarns if they bother you.

the second pic seems to show a weaving defect or irregular yarn - these kind of defects are to be expected and tolerated in fabric quality checks if they are limited in number and size.
as the fabric defect appears to be located close to the inseam it should almost un-noticable. it certainly wouldn't bother me...

the excess yarns at the buttonhole are no defect - just cut them off.

[Xtianslaterr 0]

Guys I just got a pair of the 2111 20oz... I'm a TTS 40, (but always wear 38's) and these came to me about 38.5 sanforized.. They fit great in the thigh and everywhere else but I could barely get the top button up.. My most comfortable jeans are usually size 38's that stretch to around 40.5... do you think the FH 20oz material will stretch to about 40*, if I put enough pressure on the waistband? Considering the sanforized size was about 38.5 I'm fairly hopeful I can get another 1.5* out of them... I've heard sanforized Flatheads shrink quite a lot then can stretch beyond unsanforized measurements but have not heard back much about the 20oz fabric specifically.. 

[i_denim 151]

4 hours ago, Xtianslaterr said:

Guys I just got a pair of the 2111 20oz... I'm a TTS 40, (but always wear 38's) and these came to me about 38.5 sanforized.. They fit great in the thigh and everywhere else but I could barely get the top button up.. My most comfortable jeans are usually size 38's that stretch to around 40.5... do you think the FH 20oz material will stretch to about 40*, if I put enough pressure on the waistband? Considering the sanforized size was about 38.5 I'm fairly hopeful I can get another 1.5* out of them... I've heard sanforized Flatheads shrink quite a lot then can stretch beyond unsanforized measurements but have not heard back much about the 20oz fabric specifically.. 

I can't comment about their 20oz denim but I do have a two week old FH pair in 14oz. It started it's life at 38 inches on the waist unsanforized & shrank to 36 inches after a simple cold soak. Further soaks and washes did not shrink the waist further. I seriously doubt it will stretch beyond 36.5 inches after maybe 30 wears.

[beautiful_FrEaK 1,668,883]

While TFH's Pioneer denim is really great, I think it could be better with less pronounced vertical slubs. A little bit more subtle would be nicer in my opinion.
I'm wearing my 3009 in the evening as my comfy pair and really like them but I feel the denim to be a little bit too engineered.