The Flat Head

[itsbenhere]

Yeah, flat head has so many different fabrics. Cmboland, i think you'd really like the shirt that I'm getting soon (that i recently rubbernecked on sugar mountain). I got a 40 though, hope it's not too small!

 

Also, are the buttons on that kinda cheesy plastic like some of their shirts? Or smooth/enamel thing?

[clt3]

Yeah I've been looking into chambrays a lot. I don't know if FH would be the first choice for flannels though. Never heard of linen shirts from FH either.

[youngofthesoonest]

While I do have a lot of flannels from FH, some of my favorite shirts ever are FH's lighter weight chambray, linen shirts. 

[FeloniousMonk]

Feloniousmonk, they actually have 4 fits for every almost every shirt fabric, seems like a lot to me! Western and work shirt, and wide body versions for both. There are many options.

 

True, Flat Head has more fits than most. I didn't even know they had wide versions of the western and workshirt! My earlier comment was mostly about why people may talk more about jeans or jackets than about shirts on this forum - it's easier to have a broad experience of jeans across brands than it is to have a broad experience of shirts, since most brands only have one fit of shirts and it can be pretty idiosyncratic in proportions.

 

That said, I still have no end of love for my Flat Head winter flannel, and will probably end up picking up a denim shirt from them as well. That western fit is just so much better than what I've found anywhere else.

[itsbenhere]

You must be really skinny. I can imagine that if someone can pull off their western shirts well, Flat Head western shirts may be the only well-fitting shirts in their wardrobe because of how skinny they are. I bought a western chambray and I was blown away by how slim it was, I've never had a problem with torso size and it wasn't evenc lose to looking good on me! Thankfully the flannel westerns are a lot looser than the denim or that chambray i bought.

 

Another great thing is that, other than how awesome the pioneer denim is, I can't think of another brand that has so many damn fits in it. It's impossible not to find one you'd like. 3003, 3009, 3005, 3012, 3001, 3002, SE05BSP, 3007. That's 8 cuts! 

[cmboland]

You must be really skinny. I can imagine that if someone can pull off their western shirts well, Flat Head western shirts may be the only well-fitting shirts in their wardrobe because of how skinny they are. I bought a western chambray and I was blown away by how slim it was, I've never had a problem with torso size and it wasn't evenc lose to looking good on me! Thankfully the flannel westerns are a lot looser than the denim or that chambray i bought.

 

Another great thing is that, other than how awesome the pioneer denim is, I can't think of another brand that has so many damn fits in it. It's impossible not to find one you'd like. 3003, 3009, 3005, 3012, 3001, 3002, SE05BSP, 3007. That's 8 cuts! 

 

 

Best part about the multiple cuts is you can have a SE05BSP and a 3005 and wear them totally differently.

[chicote]

Sorry to play devil's advocate, but in response to your superlative, Stevenson overall company has at least 10 cuts in their denim, as well as a full clothing line; samurai has a great number of cuts as well in a variety of different fabrics.

[Articulate]

Stevenson! God I love that brand. As it gets too hot to wear my FH's, I'm working more and more on my 714's - fantastic pair of jeans. Also, love their shirts / outerwear - sorry to go off topic. That's a brand I wish was discussed more.

[FeloniousMonk]

Stevenson overall company has at least 10 cuts in their denim, as well as a full clothing line

 

Probably the clothing and denim line that I would nominate for "most under-discussed", too, given the sheer quality and variety of their line-up as well as their availability through some US and UK stores. I only get see what Self Edge carries in person, but every piece is really well made with similarly unique fabrics to what Flat Head does.

 

And Ben, yeah, I'm a pretty skinny build. Roughly a 38-39 suit jacket (40 in the Flat Head flannel) with waist size 30-31, so it's a bigger drop than most brands tailor for. Flat Head's western fit has the most taper I've found in off-the-rack shirt sizing.

[itsbenhere]

I love stevenson too, the butterfly shirt is one of my favorites of all time!

 

Chicote, i'm sure that it's because i think so highly of flat head that I know about their diversity. There's probably a bunch of brands that have a bunch of fits for their denim or big catalogues, etc. How's stevenson's wallets though? But i realize it doesn't matter when you're looking at individual things.

 

I think Stevenson makes the second coolest fabrics after Flat Head, and the prices are noticeably better too.

[Cucoo]

Personally I may just be lucky because I'm just 174cm, not skinny but without a monstrous belly, but the two TFH western shirts I have fit me just fine in 42 (they're an older gingham sawtooth and a madras check glory park sawtooth from a few seasons back). I could probably even get away with wearing a 40 in them.

[Cold Summer]

For me at least, the issue with FH shirts isn't their slimness, they're just not long enough in the length/sleeves. Although this isn't a FH specific problem, other Japanese brands like Stevenson and Samurai have similar sleeve/hem lengths. 

 

You might reasonably say that I just have weird proportions, being tall and skinny, but a lot of JCrew's shirts in a size Small (roughly the same as a Flat Head 40) fit me just right. Most Japanese people just have different proportions. 

[itsbenhere]

I think a 40 is pretty much a medium, so at 6'3", wearing a medium is pretty unique.

 

I'm super surprised the small j. crew fits you that well, but I think it's just that those shirts are designed to be longer, so on you they fit normal. Flat Head is designed to be on the shorter side, so on you a medium body length is too damn short!

 

I think that your shirts fit you great, but since you didn't, I think it's a super good idea that you branched out to find fits you liked. Never worth it to own something that you love as an object rather than how it actually looks on you.

[Cucoo]

I think that most western brands try to cover such a huge range of body types that they end up not really fitting most people (or at least me) - on a size m the chest may fit ok but sleeves and body length will be too long for me. For shirts, I realized that with Levi's, Lee etc. an S will fit me nicely as long as it's regular and not slim, and when it's slim, an M will fit in the chest but it'll be long, sometimes too long to not look silly when not tucked.

[Iron Horse]

Seems like Cold Summer is onto something with his idea.

 

I might just have to go to Japan sometime and look into this.   

[karanimal]

Seems like Cold Summer is onto something with his idea.

 

I might just have to go to Japan sometime and look into this.   

 

I'm sure if i tried it i would end up with made to order rubber ducks instead of shirts due to my complete lack of Japanese language skills 

[chantheman]

how does the 3005 cut fit? looks like it might be a looser cut than the 3001 (310)

[itsbenhere]

Almost the most different cuts between the two. The 3005 is like their 2nd widest cut. I love it. Here's how mine fit brand new

 

[chantheman]

is there something between the 310 and the 3005?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

3002 and 3009

3012 for the extreme taper

 

That's my take on the different fits

[itsbenhere]

3001 is tight straight right? and the 3005 is loose straight.

 

If you're interested in RJB (how could you not be?!) the D105/105BSP is a slimmish straight, probably between 3001/3005.

[Aviv]

Does anyone know where I can get a pair of the F380? Can't even seem to find it on Rakuten. Is it still in production?

[itsbenhere]

Are you married to those asymmetrical backpockets? The 3009 I think is like the same exact cut.

 

Current update:

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Niko_Andy]

pERFECT  ! put themd away and call dem grail!

[Sugar Mountain]

Those have plenty more wear in them. No need for storage yet.

[itsbenhere]

Yes! No way they're going to storage yet! Jeans just get better and better and better. It feels crazy having a pair of jeans that I still like so much that are so worn. 

 

Years more wear

[Broark]

If I could find a pair of 3009's with Japanese arcs (without the blue ultra suede) I'd buy a pair just because that denim is fantastic.

That being said I don't need any more jeans. 

[isma]

those are awesome, I need mine to be faded like that to hide that tooth paste I managed to get in them lol

[Cucoo]

those are awesome, I need mine to be faded like that to hide that tooth paste I managed to get in them lol

 

Just wash them.

[isma]

I tried to get it off with a towel, the final result was a mark lighter than the dark blue of the denim. I guess when denim will fade it won't be a problem, I don't want to wash them right now for 2 reasons, 1st it's my first pair of raw denim and I would prefer contrast fades and 2nd if I wash them the tooth paste paste mark may finish worse than it is now.