The Flat Head

[Rightyow77]

Damn I feel old...Who/what is the sidneylo/brand of this day and age? 

haha sidneylo.. how time flys

[RawD]

Wish the domestic arcs on TFH weren't so ugly. Be nice if they had like half the arc or just plain pockets. I'm not alone in this right?

 

Also yeah I've always have had a pair of FH in my wardrobe, I always got the sizing wrong though and had to move them on. Really digging the 3009 and 3012 cuts though more along what I like to wear on the daily. 

 

1st post here. I totally agree that FH arcs are super ugly. They look tacky. Especially the ones that are filled in.... 

 

I will likely be the only one on here that thinks this seeing as it's a FH thread.... but I think FH is super overrated now. The only thing I'd consider buying from them is a leather jacket. 

[itsbenhere]

What experiences have you had with them that make you feel they're overrated?

[Ciabatta]

I hope everyone is enjoying my play by play haha. I'm just excited.

Tossed my pair in the washer because I wanna cut to the chase. Set it to hot and pulled them out during the spin cycle. These guys shrunk a ton. Pulled on the waist a bunch and hung them to dry. They're in gods hands now. My fingers are blue too.

[Cold Summer]

Yeah, Flat Head actually peaked around 2007-2009, Sidneylo's jeans probably inspired tons of people to buy a pair back then (I certainly would have, if I'd known about raw denim that far back.) I think that FH is enjoying a bit of a resurgence because of younger denimheads on Reddit and Instagram discovering the brand (especially since Snake Oil Provisions now carries them.)

 

I went from pretty much exclusively wearing FH stuff for about three years, to wearing a wider variety of brands now. This isn't really because I don't like FH as much, more than anything it's just because their stuff (particularly tops) doesn't fit me as well as brands like 3Sixteen, UES, RRL, JCrew, etc.

 

I love both of the FH arc designs and think they're one of the best on the market. Putting the ultrasuede stuff on all of their jeans is a terrible decision that totally clashes with how nicely every other element of FH jeans age over time. That stuff doesn't look good aged at all.

[cmboland]

Sidney what's the photographer for SE for awhile? He's pictured in some of the older product photos too.

[RawD]

Well I love everything I own from FH... I just don't think they offer the "best" of much anymore aside from their leather jackets and tees. Oh and I'll give them the best vertical fades hands down. 

 

I should mention I'm very biased because FH products just don't fit me very well anymore. FH no doubt has good fabrics but their fits always look weird to me. To me they seem to be aimed at shorter people with gigantic arms or something. 

 

I defintely came across too harshly as FH is defintely one of the best brands out there. That's for sure. I'm just not into the brand as much as I used to be is what I should've said. And I'm a little butthurt their shirts just never fit me anymore haha. 

[cmboland]

Well I love everything I own from FH... I just don't think they offer the "best" of much anymore aside from their leather jackets and tees. Oh and I'll give them the best vertical fades hands down.

I should mention I'm very biased because FH products just don't fit me very well anymore. FH no doubt has good fabrics but their fits always look weird to me. To me they seem to be aimed at shorter people with gigantic arms or something.

I defintely came across too harshly as FH is defintely one of the best brands out there. That's for sure. I'm just not into the brand as much as I used to be is what I should've said. And I'm a little butthurt their shirts just never fit me anymore haha.

I don't think they have the best leather jackets by any means. You could argue they're on par with Schott or even less than a brand like Belstaff

[Ciabatta]

Woah my pair shrunk a ton. I can still get them on but man I'm muffin topping haha. Time to hit the treadmill more often.

[itsbenhere]

Well I love everything I own from FH... I just don't think they offer the "best" of much anymore aside from their leather jackets and tees. Oh and I'll give them the best vertical fades hands down. 

 

I should mention I'm very biased because FH products just don't fit me very well anymore. FH no doubt has good fabrics but their fits always look weird to me. To me they seem to be aimed at shorter people with gigantic arms or something. 

 

I defintely came across too harshly as FH is defintely one of the best brands out there. That's for sure. I'm just not into the brand as much as I used to be is what I should've said. And I'm a little butthurt their shirts just never fit me anymore haha. 

 

Not trying to be a jackass at all, but just wondering, who would you say makes better leather wallets or belts?

 

I don't think they have the best leather jackets by any means. You could argue they're on par with Schott or even less than a brand like Belstaff

 

You've gotta be shitting me... explain ??

[kiya]

but I think FH is super overrated now. The only thing I'd consider buying from them is a leather jacket. 

 

If i may step away from my store owner position for a second.  Flat Head is in no way "overrated", half the other companies in Japan couldn't make shirts or jackets like Flat Head if they tried.  Their fabrics and the people in-house which do their textile design are the most talented i've met in my 11 years of doing this.  

[kiya]

I don't think they have the best leather jackets by any means. You could argue they're on par with Schott or even less than a brand like Belstaff

 

No, this isn't true.  Even a Schott employee once was at a Self Edge store saying how he wishes they could get leather as good as what Flat Head has made.  That's not to mention Flat Head's linings are all original fabrics and Schott (and most leather jacket companies) use stock fabrics.  Lastly, the stitching detail on Flat Head's leather jackets is top notch, other leather jacket makers agree with this sentiment.  I'd say the single thing which Flat Head produces where other brands recognize to be the top of their game is their leather jacket collection.

 

EDIT: I know it sounds like the classic store owner defending his brands, which part of it is.. but when you compare FH to Schott or Belstaff i believe somebody should step in and clear up the hierarchy of "quality" amongst the brands.

Edited March 3, 2016 by kiya

[Cold Summer]

Yeah, FH never fails to push the boundaries when it comes to fabric design, they make hands down the best shirting fabrics of any brand I've ever experience and really nobody else can touch them when it comes to this - how every single shirt has a custom selvedge fabric designed in house, often involving incredibly complex weaving processes.

 

If I was the entrepreneurial sort, I'd try to create a made-to-order shirting business that designed fabrics in a similar manner but with custom fits. There seems to be a big gap in the market for something like this since most MTO shirts are boring oxford dress shirts, unfortunately the logistics and costs of making the fabrics make this all but impossible (it's already hard enough for FH, who have the ability to quickly get samples in the mail, go to the mills, etc.)

 

Nobody can touch Flat Head's leather crafting, their wallets are hands-down the best I've handled in terms of materials and construction. But really anything they make out of leather is awesome - the Shinki leather on their jackets is extremely impressive and distinct from others I've handled, and Flat Head's line of shoes don't get enough credit - my horsehide boots are every bit as good as my Lofgren and Viberg boots and the leather is quite unique. 

 

Really, when it comes to Flat Head's stuff, whether or not it's the "best" just comes down to whether or not the fit works for you, since at least as far as shirting and leather items go, I'd say they're objectively the best.

[RawD]

Not trying to be a jackass at all, but just wondering, who would you say makes better leather wallets or belts?

 

 

You've gotta be shitting me... explain ??

Okay, I'll agree that FH makes the best belts. On a budget I'd take a SC belt though as I think it's better for the money you're dropping. And for wallets... it's a tough call because I think IH is just as good as FH. Just my opinion.... 

 

 

If i may step away from my store owner position for a second.  Flat Head is in no way "overrated", half the other companies in Japan couldn't make shirts or jackets like Flat Head if they tried.  Their fabrics and the people in-house which do their textile design are the most talented i've met in my 11 years of doing this.  

 

I agree that they have amazing fabrics.. I'll state it again.. they are one of the best out there and I was too harsh in saying they're overrated. I do however disagree with some people on this forum that think the brand is unequivocally better than others at seemingly everything. 

 

In my opinion.. for lighter denim I'm taking SOC over FH. As for most jackets, I'll agree that FH is amazing and I do think they make the best. For denim jackets/shirts though IH is the clear winner in my eyes. Although MF is also better in this category... 

 

As for the shirts, it just kills me how Flat Head labels a lot of their shirts with white on the pocket. It's just annoying to me because it looks like you're wearing a name tag. It kills the shirt. And I also don't like where they position the buttons on the front pockets. Just look at your most recently added FH flannel.. The fit just looks off.. Like the arms are too big or something.. I'm sure they have a really talented crew in Japan and I'm not arguing against the quality of construction or fabric.. more how it looks and translates in fit.. 

Edited March 3, 2016 by RawD

[VivaMarlon]

Wasn't aware of the ultra-suede change, wish I would've known sooner.  Was hoping my next pair would be Flat Heads, agree with Cold Summer, can't imagine that ages well.

[cmboland]

Now I know! I'm glad I said something.

[Sugar Mountain]

There's surely going to be older stock hanging around for a little while yet if you really need to swoop on a pair without the ultra suede.

 

Good posts up above by the way. I personally feel that Flat Head is, ahem, head and shoulders above any other shirt maker based upon the fabrics alone. Doesn't matter if it's a plain chambray or a complex weave on a kasuri shirt, they really are the very best. I do wish they'd drop the white label on the pockets though. It really adds nothing and looks a mess. Branded Cat's Eye buttons on the pocket or nothing!

[clt3]

I know it says that the ultrasuede detail will be on all models, but will it also be on international models? The only examples of the ultrasuede ones I've seen are from Japan. Maybe this detail only applies to Japan made models?

[itsbenhere]

Okay, I'll agree that FH makes the best belts. On a budget I'd take a SC belt though as I think it's better for the money you're dropping. And for wallets... it's a tough call because I think IH is just as good as FH. Just my opinion.... 

 

 

For me, when I'm comparing the quality of things, I completely disregard the price. No matter what the category, Flat Head is probably going to be the most expensive option, and I personally feel it's because they are trying to be the best option, and don't care how much it costs. 

 

Iron Heart is actually the only other brand that I think makes great wallets. To me though, the designs are a bit too simple. Also, the burnishing on my old calf wallet wasn't very tight and I wasn't a fan of how the leather split a bit at the fold. 

 

When I felt Sugar Cane's belts, I was amazed by how lightweight the leather felt and how in my eyes it didn't have much character at all. I love that Flat Head's leather belts are a lot more substantial and have a much bigger "presence" when you first get them. Whether or not you prefer a more substantial leather is obviously up to you, but I personally think that Sugar Cane's price is indicative of the item they are trying to put out. A great deal for sure, but not the best option imo if you want something that exhibits the best characteristics.

 

I agree that they have amazing fabrics.. I'll state it again.. they are one of the best out there and I was too harsh in saying they're overrated. I do however disagree with some people on this forum that think the brand is unequivocally better than others at seemingly everything. 

 

In my opinion.. for lighter denim I'm taking SOC over FH. As for most jackets, I'll agree that FH is amazing and I do think they make the best. For denim jackets/shirts though IH is the clear winner in my eyes. Although MF is also better in this category... 

 

 

I think it's impossible to say that Flat Head makes the best denim shirts because it's a really subjective thing. Flat Head, Iron Heart, and MF all make stuff that will hold up and age nicely, it just depends on what denim you prefer. When you're comparing brands like those I think there's less of a clear-cut "winner" than when talking about other things.

 

As for the shirts, it just kills me how Flat Head labels a lot of their shirts with white on the pocket. It's just annoying to me because it looks like you're wearing a name tag. It kills the shirt. And I also don't like where they position the buttons on the front pockets. Just look at your most recently added FH flannel.. The fit just looks off.. Like the arms are too big or something.. I'm sure they have a really talented crew in Japan and I'm not arguing against the quality of construction or fabric.. more how it looks and translates in fit.. 

 

 

The cuts are funky to say the least, that's for sure. Especially the most recent one since it's by far the loosest fitting shirt I've had from them, although it is a WR, so the W cut will obviously be slimmer. Personally, I think it still looks great though, because I hate when the shoulders are too small for your actual shoulders (IH), or when you have huge long swooping shirt tails (IH again!). 

 

I can't help but laugh at the backlash against the white label. It's straight up the smallest label you could possibly have that still states the brand, and you couldn't have a more tasteful font or placement. Iron Heart has been placing labels in the exact same spot since they started and I don't think anyone really bats an eye...

 

I dislike gaudy branding too, but mainly when it's used to sell something that otherwise has no merit. I couldn't care less about that little tag because, even if someone could read it, nobody knows what the fuck Flat Head is anyway so it's not like you're showing off. And you could pick it off anyway and no one would be the wiser!

 

 

Wasn't aware of the ultra-suede change, wish I would've known sooner.  Was hoping my next pair would be Flat Heads, agree with Cold Summer, can't imagine that ages well.

 

 

You should be going to Self Edge anyway if you're in LA just so you can get the proper fit, the price difference is small potatoes when you consider how long you'll wear them and how much enjoyment you'll get. Really do wish though that Self Edge could convince Flat Head that the domestic arcs are different enough to be imported...

[Ciabatta]

Lost 3" on the inseam and about half an inch on the front rise as well pretty much all around the rest of the leg. I think these are pretty much done shrinking. (I hope they are). They hung to dry and when they were still damp I finished them off in the dryer.

They came out soft and puffy. I love this denim already. Waist is tight but I already feel it giving and haven't even really moved around in these. I'll maybe post some fit pics tomorrow. They'll need a hem but I don't wanna take them off for at least couple of weeks!

These front pockets are pretty useless though. They must be for children's hands. Can barely squeeze mine in! It's ok though I rarely keep anything in my front pockets.

[itsbenhere]

3" lost in inseam = max shrinkage, you're golden. Surprised you put them in the dryer though, even I wouldn't do that!

 

Maybe flat head purposefully makes the pockets small because they know actually using your front pockets leads to gross fades

[Broark]

I'd love to get a pair of Flat Heads with the Japanese arcs, it's a shame that they are using that ultrasuede stuff now...

I think the 3009 or 3005 would be my best bet, and I'd go up to a 38 since I know they shrink like crazy.

I think The Flat Head is one of the best brands around. I have one pair of jeans, a couple tees, one flannel, and a wallet and everything is just incredibly well done. The attention to detail is really all there and they go above and beyond with the fabrics. It's a shame their shirts don't really seem to fit me that well (at least from what I've experienced so far) or else my closet would be full of them.

I'm considering getting a belt from them as well since I came to the realization that I don't have any belts that I like. Probably on the list for purchase sometime this year, the double pronged version seems really nice.

[Sugar Mountain]

I think it's impossible to say that Flat Head makes the best denim shirts because it's a really subjective thing. Flat Head, Iron Heart, and MF all make stuff that will hold up and age nicely, it just depends on what denim you prefer. When you're comparing brands like those I think there's less of a clear-cut "winner" than when talking about other things.

 

[...]

 

I can't help but laugh at the backlash against the white label. It's straight up the smallest label you could possibly have that still states the brand, and you couldn't have a more tasteful font or placement. Iron Heart has been placing labels in the exact same spot since they started and I don't think anyone really bats an eye...

 

That first statement is remarkably balanced coming from you Ben! Go on, say it, Flat Head makes the best shirts.

 

The white label is small but looks terrible. Iron Heart do a good job on the pocket label because it is typically black and their logo typeface lends itself to the format. Flat Head's cursive script logo on a white backing with sloppy edges looks cheap and incongruous with the high quality of the product it sits on. I do own one shirt with the label but would rather it wasn't there and need to pick up a seam ripper at some point.

[Broark]

Well, lo and behold I just went a tried my 2111's on and they fit much better than I remember previously!

They're not the Pioneer denim but still, they deserve to be worn some more. Going to give them some more wear over the next little while.

[RawD]

Okay the only thing I really disagree with is about the denim shirts. I'm sorry but FH denim shirts are boring AF. IH which is known for being pretty boring has more interesting denim shirts out there. And honestly, I think IH is getting pretty close to passing FH in other shirt "categories" as well..... I already prefer IH flannels. 

 

As for the sizing, compare the shirts from FH and IH on the Self Edge site. I think most shirts from both brands work well with that guy. But there are some shirts from FH that look super funky and just don't look right. 

 

And the white label is honestly ridiculous though! Yes I know it can be removed but c'mon.... why even put it on there in the first place? It looks stupid. IH should also remove their logo but at least it looks more natural...

[Articulate]

Here to defend the white label, no issues with it on my end!

[beautiful_FrEaK]

There's surely going to be older stock hanging around for a little while yet if you really need to swoop on a pair without the ultra suede.

 

 

 

I wouldn't be too sure about that. My 3009 in size 36 was the last one Frisbee carried and besides that only 2ND had my size in the latest issue (read: before ultra-suede)

[kiya]

As for the shirts, it just kills me how Flat Head labels a lot of their shirts with white on the pocket. It's just annoying to me because it looks like you're wearing a name tag. It kills the shirt. 

 

I do wish they'd drop the white label on the pockets though. It really adds nothing and looks a mess. Branded Cat's Eye buttons on the pocket or nothing!

 

I've removed the pocket tag on nearly all my Flat Head shirts, takes 5 seconds with a seam ripper or super sharp knife and leaves zero markings behind.

 

I know it says that the ultrasuede detail will be on all models, but will it also be on international models? The only examples of the ultrasuede ones I've seen are from Japan. Maybe this detail only applies to Japan made models?

 

 

This ultra suede detail on the back pockets is only for jeans being sold to Japanese retailers, our jeans from Flat Head will remain the same.

[Rightyow77]

Love all my FH and R.J.B shirts wish I could afford more of them! I have a few Sugar can and Buzz Shirts I use for work but the fit on FH and RJB is perfect for my body type. Can't fit most IH shirts since they are so long. Glad I grabbed my 3009s love the Japanese arcs, I cant stand the arcs we get here my 3012 have those arcs and I wish they didn't. Oh well small detail, but on a side note I would gladly pay more just to have that detail available to me locally and have my money go to small businesses like selfedge than overseas. 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Am I correct to assume that Flat Head subcontracts the production of wallets, belts, boots, leather jackets, etc. or do they really do all this by themselves? What I strongly doubt.

 

Or asked differently: what do they by their own? I read and saw the report of how the jeans are produced, which is of course also done in small workshops. Are these small workshops exclusive to Flat Head or do these workshops produce denim for other brands and sew for other brands?

 

I think what I am trying to say is, how much credit has to be given to Flat Head for the great products or should we rather praise the small workshops. Or should we give credit to Flat Head because they push the small workshops to produce the highest quality?!