The Flat Head

[comicto]

Anyone have insight on sizing for 3002?  I'm a true 31.  Have the f310 since 09 that i've sized base on my thighs and wear a size 32, waist is loose but i wear a belt.  Looks like the 3002 is little bigger in the thighs, while being a little tighter in the wast which i don't mind.  Should i go TTS at 31 or size up one to a 32 again?  Wondering what others have done.

 

thx.

Edited December 29, 2015 by comicto

[Rightyow77]

Anyone have insight on sizing for 3002?  I'm a true 31.  Have the f310 since 09 that i've sized base on my thighs and wear a size 32, waist is loose but i wear a belt.  Looks like the 3002 is little bigger in the thighs, while being a little tighter in the wast which i don't mind.  Should i go TTS at 31 or size up one to a 32 again?  Wondering what others have done.

 

thx.

Size up to a 32, they run small. The denim will shrink a ton after first wash too. 3002 is a good cut, too bad the RGT cult has caught a wif of it. 

[comicto]

awsome thx ---  lol RGT cult

[Cold Summer]

I swear I've never heard of this RGT cult until about a week ago. Apparently there's a whole subspecies of denim fan I knew nothing about!

[itsbenhere]

Still haven't seen the cult really but I'll believe you guys!

 

Random question... Kyle, what's the "CAUTION" tags on flat head stuff say? Funny I still have no clue after so many things I've bought!

[Cold Summer]

They're just little warnings about how the clothes are made with old looms/sewing machines and that some color transfer (with jeans) and irregularities in the fabric are expected.

[dwilson123]

Fun/odd story.  My wife's brother speaks and reads Japanese.  So sometimes I have him read some crap on my tags or help with rakuten orders.  So I wanted to make sure to drive home to Klax-On I wanted the hook for the wallet chain attached to the wallet.  It said on the page they could but I wanted to make sure it would happen.  So I ran it through google translate for the email to send them and had him read it over.  He said it literally said in English "walleto chaino keepah."  At first I couldn't tell if he was being funny since it sounded so incredibly like someone just free-forming the Asian language off the English.  So I redirected him to the Klax-On Rakuten page where he confirmed the wallet chain keeper literally translated to "walleto chaino keepah" off the JP rakuten page for attaching the hook.

[ironheartfan123]

can someone provide a link? my google search of rgt cult turned up nothing

[Rightyow77]

Go on instagram. Type in RGT hastag slubfadez hashtagmadeinusa hastagrgt and presto 

[Cold Summer]

Fun/odd story.  My wife's brother speaks and reads Japanese.  So sometimes I have him read some crap on my tags or help with rakuten orders.  So I wanted to make sure to drive home to Klax-On I wanted the hook for the wallet chain attached to the wallet.  It said on the page they could but I wanted to make sure it would happen.  So I ran it through google translate for the email to send them and had him read it over.  He said it literally said in English "walleto chaino keepah."  At first I couldn't tell if he was being funny since it sounded so incredibly like someone just free-forming the Asian language off the English.  So I redirected him to the Klax-On Rakuten page where he confirmed the wallet chain keeper literally translated to "walleto chaino keepah" off the JP rakuten page for attaching the hook.

 

The vast majority of modern words in Japanese are bastardized versions of English, instead of having a proper Japanese name. So instead of giving it a Japanese name like 財布ä¿å­˜ç¶± (Saifu hozon tsuna, literally "Wallet Keeper Rope/Chain"), they give it a tacky Katakana name like ウォレットãƒã‚§ãƒ¼ãƒ³ã‚­ãƒ¼ãƒ‘ー. Fact: if you invest the effort required for Japanese fluency, you will spend a depressing amount of time saying English words in a funny accent.

[karanimal]

shameless plug...selling my FH x RJB x Corlection jeans in size 34. measurements and pictures up on grailed...havent been worn since the pictures, 10 wears total. I need a 36 in these...

 

https://www.grailed.com/listings/304867-the-flat-head-fh-x-rjb-x-cor-core-me

[Rightyow77]

those back pockets are ugly. Also I'm guilty of it too but can we stop using the major discussion threads as the market thread.. just saying.

 

That being said I'm loving this Pioneer denim. 

[accidence]

Hey everyone! New to Flat Head denim. Could anyone give me a quick walkthrough the TFH cuts? And what are the different series'? Thanks and happy new year!

[itsbenhere]

3003 -

I think this one is like a WW2 cut, long rise and all. Full leg, not much taper.

 

3005 -

Modified straight; very little taper, full leg, but with a medium rise rather than a high rise that you usually see on jeans this loose

 

3009 - 

Straight tapered; like the 3005, but with some taper that makes it feel much slimmer than the 3005. Still a decent amount of room in the thigh though

 

3012 -

A carrot fit... This one should have a higher rise, pretty full legs, and tapers to a very small leg opening

 

3001 - 

Slim straight, I'd only mess with these if you have very very skinny legs and thighs

 

If you're looking at a pair of normal jeans (no natural indigo or hank dyeing, etc) I'd argue you can't get one more beautiful than flat heads!

[accidence]

3003 -

I think this one is like a WW2 cut, long rise and all. Full leg, not much taper.

 

3005 -

Modified straight; very little taper, full leg, but with a medium rise rather than a high rise that you usually see on jeans this loose

 

3009 - 

Straight tapered; like the 3005, but with some taper that makes it feel much slimmer than the 3005. Still a decent amount of room in the thigh though

 

3012 -

A carrot fit... This one should have a higher rise, pretty full legs, and tapers to a very small leg opening

 

3001 - 

Slim straight, I'd only mess with these if you have very very skinny legs and thighs

 

If you're looking at a pair of normal jeans (no natural indigo or hank dyeing, etc) I'd argue you can't get one more beautiful than flat heads!

 

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. Do you have any experience with the 3002? Also, what is the pioneer/exceed series?

 

Also, what would you say makes TFH so good?

[Rightyow77]

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. Do you have any experience with the 3002? Also, what is the pioneer/exceed series?

 

Also, what would you say makes TFH so good?

Have to add the 3002 also. Basically FH version of Samurais 710 fit in my opinion or Levis' 522 fit. Slim tapper, slim thigh medium rise, tapered leg. Had a pair a while back but didn't like the RBJ details on my pair, they offer it in there regular pioneer series I believe.

 

Sent my 3012 to get hemmed so I will post fit pics after they come back and I give them an agitated soak.

[Fycus]

Don't know where to post without creating a thread, but I have a pair of f380s size 32 I had tapered to around 7.25" (w/ stock inseam) I'd let go for $30 shipped US only. They have some pretty sweet fades but a TON of life left. Just trying to pass a good deal to a fan of the brand.

Edited January 4, 2016 by Fycus

[spaceghostcoast2coast]

I haven't found much information on the 1015 cut besides it is a straight leg. I havent seen it mentioned anywhere either except on rakuten. How much does it differ from the 3005 or 3003? Also what are the differences between the 1xxx, 3xxx, 5xxx, and 8xxx denim besides the weights?

[Rightyow77]

I believe the 1015 is similar to the 3005 but has a zipper. could be wrong though Cold Summer should be able to answer this better.

[itsbenhere]

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. Do you have any experience with the 3002? Also, what is the pioneer/exceed series?

 

Also, what would you say makes TFH so good?

 

No experience with the 3002 unfortunately, and I only have first-hand experience with the 3005/3009. The rest of the info is just what I've gleaned from other websites.

 

The pioneer and exceed series are types of denim that flat head uses, or 3xxx and 1xxx respectively.

 

Really most brands discussed here are amazing, there's just something about Flat Head jeans (and amazingly everything else they make...) that I feel makes them better than the alternatives. I love the bold color, streakiness, and stitching of flat head jeans. I love the iron buttons, the selvedge pocketbags printed with flat head all over them, the goatskin patch that is super supple and a beautiful color, iron buttons, bright copper rivets, just everything about the jeans to me are perfect. And there are so many cuts that I'm sure it's possible to find one that is perfect for you (unless you're kyle )

 

I was looking at having another studded belt made and I asked how this brand varied from flat head, which also makes studded belts. I think his answer was great: 

 

"The FLAT HEAD makes a product of excessive self-assertion. Those aren't a true vintage style."

 

To me the best thing about Flat Head is that they are vintage inspired, but aren't held back by the past, and design things that are more luxurious and in your face than vintage garments actually were, but I like the excessive self-assertion better!

 

Also what are the differences between the 1xxx, 3xxx, 5xxx, and 8xxx denim besides the weights?

 

Honestly I don't think Flat Head's denims really vary *that* much except for the weights. If you look at RJB denim, different kinds of Flat Head denim, and all variants of the brand, they kind of all have the same look. Dyed really deep and beautifully streaky after a lot of wear and washes. Of course if you choose not to wash them they can also look like a very contrasty greasy mess...

 

Personally, I don't see a huge point in owning all types of their denim since to me they seem really similar. I'd say go with the pioneer denim if you haven't had any experience with the brand; of course, if you really like the idea of heavier denim, I think you could safely try the other types and be pleased with how they develop, provided you like how the pioneer denim fades.

[Rightyow77]

Ben I was going to cop that FH Tee from you today but it sold!!! WhY?? I always sleep

[Cold Summer]

1015 is similar to the 1005 (16 oz, straight fit, button fly) but it's described as a "Biker's Straight" fit so there may be slightly more room in the seat and hip. Not sure. It does have reinforced poly/cotton doubled stitching around the pocket edges, which has since been applied to other FH models.

 

Honestly I can't tell any difference between the 14.5 and 16 oz. denim, aside from the weight. The weave, dye, etc. all seems to be exactly the same and they fade the same, as best as I can tell. I'm guessing the 18 oz. is the same, just slightly heavier. Don't know. The 5000 series denim has less aggressive vertical fading and a lighter overall color, closer to a "vintage" style of denim. RJB's Zimbabwe cotton denim is the biggest outlier, it has a different weave (almost herringbone in its pattern, not too unlike Strike Gold's 5100 denim) and its fade is more powdery blue than electric blue, but still with strong contrast.

 

Ben covered everything else. Honestly the 14.5 oz Pioneer denim from the 3000 series jeans is my favorite too, since it's best for all season wear.

[VivaMarlon]

Have to add the 3002 also. Basically FH version of Samurais 710 fit in my opinion or Levis' 522 fit. Slim tapper, slim thigh medium rise, tapered leg. Had a pair a while back but didn't like the RBJ details on my pair, they offer it in there regular pioneer series I believe.

 

Sent my 3012 to get hemmed so I will post fit pics after they come back and I give them an agitated soak.

From what I've seen in pictures, it looks like the 3002 is slimmer throughout than the 710.  Obviously fit varies from person to person, but can anyone attest to them being pretty close?  Never actually tried on a pair of 3002.

[accidence]

From what I've seen in pictures, it looks like the 3002 is slimmer throughout than the 710.  Obviously fit varies from person to person, but can anyone attest to them being pretty close?  Never actually tried on a pair of 3002.

 

I too would like to know more about the 3002. Seems to be the slimmest (not anywhere near skinny though) of the 3xxx range, after the 3009.

[youngofthesoonest]

1015 is similar to the 1005 (16 oz, straight fit, button fly) but it's described as a "Biker's Straight" fit so there may be slightly more room in the seat and hip. Not sure. It does have reinforced poly/cotton doubled stitching around the pocket edges, which has since been applied to other FH models.

 

Honestly I can't tell any difference between the 14.5 and 16 oz. denim, aside from the weight. The weave, dye, etc. all seems to be exactly the same and they fade the same, as best as I can tell. I'm guessing the 18 oz. is the same, just slightly heavier. Don't know. The 5000 series denim has less aggressive vertical fading and a lighter overall color, closer to a "vintage" style of denim. RJB's Zimbabwe cotton denim is the biggest outlier, it has a different weave (almost herringbone in its pattern, not too unlike Strike Gold's 5100 denim) and its fade is more powdery blue than electric blue, but still with strong contrast.

 

Ben covered everything else. Honestly the 14.5 oz Pioneer denim from the 3000 series jeans is my favorite too, since it's best for all season wear.

RJB's zimbabwe has an awesome weave and I love how distinct it looks esp on the weft side. 

[Rightyow77]

I too would like to know more about the 3002. Seems to be the slimmest (not anywhere near skinny though) of the 3xxx range, after the 3009.

Having owned both jeans, yes the 3002 is slimmer in the thigh but the taper and hem are about the same. The rise on the 3002 is what I would call low to mid. The 710 is more of a true mid rise, the Sam. denim at least the zero series, shrinks less aggressively than the FH 3xxx (pioneer) 14.5. Like I said I really liked the cut of the 3002 but the details weren't there for the pair I had grabbed. Also with the 3002 I would suggest sizing up, I wear a 29 or 30 in most Japanese jeans and sized a 31 for a comfortable fit in my 3002s. I wear a 29 in the 3012, a 30 in the 3009 and a 30 in the 17oz 710 if that helps at all. 

Edited January 5, 2016 by Rightyow77

[VivaMarlon]

Having owned both jeans, yes the 3002 is slimmer in the thigh but the taper and hem are about the same. The rise on the 3002 is what I would call low to mid. The 710 is more of a true mid rise, the Sam. denim at least the zero series, shrinks less aggressively than the FH 3xxx (pioneer) 14.5. Like I said I really liked the cut of the 3002 but the details weren't there for the pair I had grabbed. Also with the 3002 I would suggest sizing up, I wear a 29 or 30 in most Japanese jeans and sized a 31 for a comfortable fit in my 3002s. I wear a 29 in the 3012, a 30 in the 3009 and a 30 in the 17oz 710 if that helps at all. 

 

Thanks! That definitely helps, my current pair is a 19oz 710 in a 30 and looking into having my next pair be a 3002.

[accidence]

Having owned both jeans, yes the 3002 is slimmer in the thigh but the taper and hem are about the same. The rise on the 3002 is what I would call low to mid. The 710 is more of a true mid rise, the Sam. denim at least the zero series, shrinks less aggressively than the FH 3xxx (pioneer) 14.5. Like I said I really liked the cut of the 3002 but the details weren't there for the pair I had grabbed. Also with the 3002 I would suggest sizing up, I wear a 29 or 30 in most Japanese jeans and sized a 31 for a comfortable fit in my 3002s. I wear a 29 in the 3012, a 30 in the 3009 and a 30 in the 17oz 710 if that helps at all. 

 

Thanks alot! We seem to have roughly the same waist size. I'm more or less interested in the 3002 and 3009 with the pioneer stitching. What do you mean that the details weren't there for the 3002?

 

If you wouldn't mind, could you take a photo of the fits of the 3002 and the 3009 so I can get an idea of what they actually look like? I've tried finding pictures but it seems that not many people have the 3002.

[Rightyow77]

I can try to find some of the 3002 fit pics but I sold them so I don't have them anymore, and I'll try and snag some pictures of the 3009 when they are back from being repaired when ever that is. 

 

As for details I had their RBJ collabo pair had these weird faux sued back pockets that I was not privy to.

Edited January 6, 2016 by Rightyow77

[accidence]

I can try to find some of the 3002 fit pics but I sold them so I don't have them anymore, and I'll try and snag some pictures of the 3009 when they are back from being repaired when ever that is. 

 

As for details I had their RBJ collabo pair had these weird faux sued back pockets that I was not privy to.

 

Thanks alot(: Anything would be a great help!