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The Flat Head


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@jimmy_d Self Edge should be fairly accurate as of now. Heddels page likely has SE's measurements from year's ago (likely when they first stocked the 3005). Vintage paradise on Rakuten has the 3005-S, they will provide measurements (2nd also has this model but they do not provide measurements). I have both the 3005-S (size 34) and SE 3005 (size 33) if that would help you at all?

The 3005 is a great fit, not too repro like yet comfortable with a true mid rise. It's a good stepping stone into more true repro like fits.

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Any information on whether the 3xxx series will be going away/changing and when that would be happening?  Self Edge doesn't currently have the 3005 in my size, however I'm not in the immediate market for a new pair but would like to know if they will eventually restock or if what's available is all that's left.

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8 hours ago, jimmy_d said:

Hey everyone - this is my first post on here. With the recent Flat Head news, I think I want to get a pair of 3005's before there is a possibility of losing my chance. I have 3009's that I love, but I don't have anything in the classic straight leg cut. The problem is that I can't seem to find accurate measurements. Self Edge's measurements seem different than what I got from 2nd (from what I could translate) which is different from Heddels (not sure where they got that chart from). I have big hockey player thighs so that's my main area of concern. Anyone have an accurate size chart or know how the thighs compare to the 3009's in a size 36? Thanks.

I can see where the confusion lies. Self edge is not accurate for upper thigh and back rise, even accounting for their one inch down on thigh measurement, it's still not 12.5" for a size 36.

 

I have a 36 raw FH 3005 sitting in my closet (no, it's not for sale). I'll check tomorrow for you, but off the top of my head upper thigh BiG style measures more like 13.75" to 14" upper thigh and back rise is like 16", maybe 16.5.

My 36 3009 shrunk from about 13.5" upper thigh to 13", so expect the 3005 size 36 to settle at about 13.5 upper thigh after all shrinkage is done.

 

I'll give you precise full measurements for the whole jean tomorrow.

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@1fookntitefd here's the measurements for my 3009's after a warm wash on normal, so lots of agitation.


BiG style measurements.
Waist: 36 in.
Front rise: 11 in.
Back rise: 15 in.
Upper thigh: 13.5 in.
Knee: 9.5 in.
Leg opening 9 in.
Inseam: 33 in.

I'll try to take some fit pictures up tomorrow, these are lower rise than I am used to after wearing Roy and Ooe for awhile, but they don't feel restrictive.
The only other pair of Flat Head jeans I've tried before were the 2111 20 oz. denim and these are a much better cut for me.

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These things will continue to shrink over the course of the next few washes you do. My 3009 in size 36 are now around a 35 waist and the thigh is 13.1 measured from an inch below crotch.  I think you still have some shrink left. 

Edited by JohnnyUtah247
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Yeah I figured as much, I’ve heard how much the Pioneer denim shrinks over the course of the first few washes. If I start wearing them I’ll probably do another wash after a month or so of wear.

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1 hour ago, JohnnyUtah247 said:

These things will continue to shrink over the course of the next few washes you do. My 3009 in size 36 are now around a 35 waist and the thigh is 13.1 measured from an inch below crotch.  I think you still have some shrink left. 

That's good to know. I've been wanting to get a 3009 for literally years now, and have wondered about sizing and shrinking. I have the 3202 20oz denim in a 34 - the waist is a bit big but the thighs are snug. Different cut, I know... not sure if I'd get a 33 or 34 in 3009. 

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Size 36 raw 3005:

waist: 18" across waist band not aligned

front rise: 12"

back rise 16.5"

leg opening: 10"

upper thigh: 13.75" to 14" - I measure at crotch total fabric across the leg; I don't stop at any seams

upper thigh: from the inside leg seam attached to the crotch and across the leg 12.75" to 13"

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4 hours ago, mpukas said:

That's good to know. I've been wanting to get a 3009 for literally years now, and have wondered about sizing and shrinking. I have the 3202 20oz denim in a 34 - the waist is a bit big but the thighs are snug. Different cut, I know... not sure if I'd get a 33 or 34 in 3009. 

For what it’s worth, I have the 3009, and the 3005 which I wear a size 36 in and they’re perfect. I also had a pair of flat head 2111’s once upon a time (not into heavy weight denim anymore) and they were size 34.

In Roy’s or iron hearts I’m a size 34 as well. My natural waist is probably between a 34-36 depending on how poorly I ate that week lol. I would say you’re better off taking the bigger size in the pioneer denim. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

While washing my DWC2 IH-888-NT's I've put a couple more days into thes 3202's. Prolly about 3 weeks total. I gave them a 2nd wash after the last bit of wear at about 2.5 weeks. They shrunk up slightly more int he thighs but not significantly from the first wash. I'll say it again - this is prolly the gnarliest denim I've ever experienced. It's so thick, heavy, rough and very little stretch so far. The color is no dark and saturated - they leave dye on everything they touch. This cut is almost too slim for me to pull off, and combined with this denim they're a chore to wear. Just walking up stairs is challenging. Saying that, I really like the look of the fit and overall I love them. Need to get them hemmed. Some subtle hues starting to show in direct sunlight. 

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Honestly, even tho this is a very good medium-low rise slim cut, I think Samurai's S511 is better. 

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@mlwdp Machine wash (front-loading) always inside out and low spin - 1st was a sink soak for an hour to saturate the denim, then right into a hot water wash, then a hot 20 minute tumble dry but still damp, then hang inside out until dry. That's become my usual washing routine for all new denim, whether unsanforized or sanforized, rinsed or raw. I want to get as much shrink out as possible before I start wearing them or get them hemmed. Then depending on how much they've shrunk, how much they might still shrink, how they fit, etc. I'll vary washing methods accordingly. For this pair 2nd wash was cold water and hang dry 'cuz I don't want them to shrink too much more. I don't think this denim shrinks as much as TFH's other denims. As long as they're washed inside out, I don't get any adverse crocking along the creases. I've f'd up jeans in the past by washing right-side out... If there's any creases after they're dry I'll usually iron them, inside out, and also get the selvedge seam to lay flat. 

Why do you ask? Any particular reason/comments? 

@Radiohead89 thx for the comments. I too think they look good, but damn they are chore to wear. They're just about at my threshold for comfort & usability... I can't even lift my leg high enough to step into my car (a mid-sized SUV)... like I said, as good as this cut is, I think the S511 is better - slightly higher rise, better proportioned waist-to-hip ratio, and better front pockets. But my S511's are too small and I need to move them... :P

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Boots are Vivobarefoot Scott 2.0 Desert Leather Boots. Currently not available. Vivo's boots/shoes are wide and foot-shaped. This version is made from "hand-finished" camel leather f/ Africa. Extremely comfortable. However they're ugly and made in China, and not in a good way. I ordered 3 different pairs of these before I found one that was decent enough to keep. I'm a big fan of Vivo, and they're practically all I (can) wear now. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Picked up the indigo linen shirt from SE, glad I did because now all the 46's are sold out. :D
Super lightweight, perfect for the everlasting summer here. Funny because the tag says 100% cotton.
I can see myself wearing this a lot.
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Ordered a pair of 3009 from SE last week and wore them for the first time today after 1 warm wash and 1 hot wash (hopefully they don’t shrink too much more over the years)

A few thoughts.

These Japanese brands are not kind to western body types. I am 6’ and ~190 lbs (so not huge, but probably quite a bit bigger than the average Japanese male), and I’m not exactly swimming in the size 36. Also, I didn’t do any measurements and didn’t look them up, but I’d be surprised if the back rise were much longer than the front rise. These ratios aren’t ideal for those with meatier behind. 

Finally, I know people have mentioned the size of the pocket openings and I didn’t really know what to expect. It couldn’t be that bad, right? WRONG. The pocket openings are basically unusable. Once you get your hand in the pocket, the bags are a normal size, but nobody with normal sized hands would be able to get in there without force.

People have blamed Flatheads bizarre sizing on the owner basically making everything to fit himself. Well, he’s not wearing size XL shirts or size 36 pants, so one would think they could do a better job of scaling these measurements to larger sizes. Someone who wears size 36 pants probably has bigger hands than someone wearing 28, so open up those pockets bro!

That being said, i have a size XL of one of their western flannels from this winter, and after throwing it in the dryer, the proportions actually fit me pretty darn well. Usually I have a problem with the really narrow shoulders from these Japanese companies (18” on a lot of brands in my size), so glad the flathead at least gives me something different to worry about. The neck opening is a bit big.

And despite the ridiculousness of some of the measurements, I do think the pants will work for me and am excited to see how they progress.

 

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