The Flat Head

[Foxy2]

Wow that is cool! I always wondered how Flat Head's amazingly intricate shirt patterns are created... it'd be cool to see a breakdown of that little paper that's being fed into the side of the first loom, what it's programming for. As well as a bit about the different 'arms' dropping in and out of the line around 26 seconds in; are those selecting different colored threads? adjusting the tension of the weave? something else? i admit I'm completely ignorant of this sort of thing. but this is an awesome video, thanks for sharing ben!

Not too familiar with the English terms, but these are weaving shafts, heald frames of heddle frames.

Basically, they form the patterns of the finished fabric. The number of frames determine the possible complexity of the pattern.

Each frame has a different combination of warps threaded through them.

By changing the frame after each time a shuttle pulls the weft yarn through a pattern is formed.

[Cucoo]

F380 with 200 wear days since May 2015, right before their 11. machine wash:

 

 

 

 

Made two small amateurish repairs so far. Inseam started to unravel in the right leg:

 

 

And my phone started to punch through the left back pocket:

 

 

And here they are right after their 11. wash:

 

 

 

 

 

I'm very satisfied with how they're turning out. The streaky texture pops more with every wash.

[istz]

Hi,

Sorry i never use The FLat Head before,

May i know what is the difference between FH 1002 and FH 5002 ?

I try to compare based on the size chart but seems its almost the same, and i can see that the fabric of 1002 is 16oz and 5002 is 14oz.

Which one is better ?

 

Thanks a lot

[itsbenhere]

They should be exactly the same except for the denim... The 5002 has denim that starts out lighter and is a little more "vintage" with streaks that are not as bold.

 

The 1002 is a heavier version of the pioneer denim that fades almost the same.

 

I think you can't go wrong with either!

[mikecch]

b_F's 3009 review is here on my blog!

[oomslokop]

great review @b_F and thanks for putting it up mike. what is the atu mesu technique?

[itsbenhere]

That's when they make the buttonhole stitch before they punch out the buttonhole, its supposed to reinforce it more but then you'll see strands of the weft inside the button hole

[oomslokop]

thanks mate. checking for evidence of atu mesu in all my jeans at the moment. 

[Isaiah_joe313]

Hey guys,

First time here and I've already found tons of helpful info. My question is, I recently purchased a pair of size 36 FH SE05BSP from Self Edge NYC. Great service from the guys there btw.

My TTS is 36. Pre soak they fit snug, I did a cold soak for 15-18 mins, because I was afraid they would shrink too much. I've worn then about 5-6 times post soak and they fit good but still tight in the thighs. I'm hoping after some wears they will loosen up in the thighs and the top block.

I'm afraid all the shrinkage isn't gone yet. I'm pretty sure if I washed them they would be too small.

So my question is, should I sell and get a bigger size 38.

Do another cold or hot soak and pray they still fit and stretch out.

[itsbenhere]

You were afraid they'd shrink too much but they're tight and now you want them to stretch out?

 

But yeah, if you cold soaked those for 15 mins and they're already tight, these aren't going to be jeans that you will get a lot of use out of in the long run. I'm sure they'll be ball crushers once you wash them, which I'm assuming you'd like to eventually do.

 

What did the guys at self edge tell you? Those are as unsanforized as it gets, they should've had you take a size up

[1fookntitefd]

Did you take measurements before and after soaking?

As a point of reference my 3002s shrunk about two inches in the waist and 3 inches in the inseam after two 1 hour soaks. I am a 36 TTS and got a tag size 38. But then again, I don't know whether or not the se05bsp uses the pioneer denim. If so, they sound a bit small...

Hey guys,

First time here and I've already found tons of helpful info. My question is, I recently purchased a pair of size 36 FH SE05BSP from Self Edge NYC. Great service from the guys there btw.

My TTS is 36. Pre soak they fit snug, I did a cold soak for 15-18 mins, because I was afraid they would shrink too much. I've worn then about 5-6 times post soak and they fit good but still tight in the thighs. I'm hoping after some wears they will loosen up in the thighs and the top block.

I'm afraid all the shrinkage isn't gone yet. I'm pretty sure if I washed them they would be too small.

So my question is, should I sell and get a bigger size 38.

Do another cold or hot soak and pray they still fit and stretch out.

[ShootThePier]

TTS in the waist for me is 35. TTS in the thigh for me is 12.5. Thighs don't stretch like the waist does. I always look at the thigh measurement first. YMMV.

[Smallrod]

Sorry if this has been covered already...nothing came up with a search. Can anyone share details of the 3005-22? I see they are a limited release and the accurate have a blue infill but other than that, what are the differences from the 3005? Any sizing differences?

Thanks.

[itsbenhere]

They look to be exactly the same except for what you mentioned and they have a deerskin patch, not goatskin. I'm sure the fit is the same too

[Isaiah_joe313]

You were afraid they'd shrink too much but they're tight and now you want them to stretch out?

 

But yeah, if you cold soaked those for 15 mins and they're already tight, these aren't going to be jeans that you will get a lot of use out of in the long run. I'm sure they'll be ball crushers once you wash them, which I'm assuming you'd like to eventually do.

 

What did the guys at self edge tell you? Those are as unsanforized as it gets, they should've had you take a size up

 

Thanks for your help.

 

 Self Edge said "They will stretch 1inch after 20ish wears. Then do another cold wash, they will shrink and get tight but after a few wears they will stretch back. "

 

Problem is I'm not sure if they will stretch enough. 

PRE SOAK image 

Edited September 7, 2016 by Isaiah_joe313

[Isaiah_joe313]

Wow that pretty much is it. Yeah the SE05bsp uses pioneer denim  which is the main reason I went with FH's

Unfortunately I didn't take measurements. 

 

Did you take measurements before and after soaking?

As a point of reference my 3002s shrunk about two inches in the waist and 3 inches in the inseam after two 1 hour soaks. I am a 36 TTS and got a tag size 38. But then again, I don't know whether or not the se05bsp uses the pioneer denim. If so, they sound a bit small...

 

[Cucoo]

 

Thanks for your help.

 

 Self Edge said "They will stretch 1inch after 20ish wears. Then do another cold wash, they will shrink and get tight but after a few wears they will stretch back. "

 

Problem is I'm not sure if they will stretch enough. 

PRE SOAK image 

 

That looks way too tight IMO for a pre wash fit.

[Bobbo]

I'd say that is a solid POST wash fit.

[itsbenhere]

Is that a straightup no soak or that cold soak you were talking about?

 

Either way, yeah I'd say that'd be a good fit (and still on the slim side) if it was post wash. I think those will not become comfortable and you'll have to baby those if you manage to stick through it, never washing them, etc... I would purchase the size up and hot wash it, they'll pretty much look just like that except you will have gotten all the shrink out.

[Isaiah_joe313]

Damn Damn Damn, yeah I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and size up. Sucks, I'm sure they'll sell quick but starting over sucks. Better to do it now, then find out after a wash.

 

I think I'm going to look into a size 38 in the TFH 3002's for a more easier fit. 

 

 

Thanks guys. 

[1fookntitefd]

^ the 3002 is a great choice. I've had mine for almost 2 months and can't take them off. I started with a size 38 and it had massive shrinkage - about two inches in the waste and over 1/2 an inch throughout the rest of the leg.

[Isaiah_joe313]

^ the 3002 is a great choice. I've had mine for almost 2 months and can't take them off. I started with a size 38 and it had massive shrinkage - about two inches in the waste and over 1/2 an inch throughout the rest of the leg.

Thanks dude 

[Isaiah_joe313]

^ the 3002 is a great choice. I've had mine for almost 2 months and can't take them off. I started with a size 38 and it had massive shrinkage - about two inches in the waste and over 1/2 an inch throughout the rest of the leg.

I'm getting the same size.

How are the thighs, still tight?

How many soaks?

[1fookntitefd]

I did two warm soaks for about an hour each. Pre and post shrink measurements are as follows:

 

Pre:

W 37.5

FR 11.5

BR 15.25

Thigh 13.25

Knee 9.4

Hem 8.5

Inseam 37

 

Post:

W 35.5

FR 11

BR 14

Thigh 12.75

Knee 8.75

Hem 8

Inseam 34

 

As you can see, the denim shrinks quite a bit but does have some give. They definitely stretch a little with wear. There are pre and post fit pics on the Ironheart forum in pages 171 and 172.

[Isaiah_joe313]

Life-saver, thanks dude.

[Smallrod]

Does the 16oz denim breathe any better than the 14.5oz denim?

[itsbenhere]

I couldn't see why a 16 oz version of the 14.5 oz denim would breathe better. I'd just focus on the cut to get the maximum breathability if you want flat heads, but also i don't think they're too bad once they're faded

[Smallrod]

Thanks Ben. I find the 14.5oz weave is quite tight and was wondering if anyone has handled both could say if they are the same or one is different from the other?

[SuperJackle]

I have both, although I have yet to wear in the 16oz. It seems pretty substantial and tightly woven. From all I can gather the 16oz is quite literally just a heavier pioneer denim. The fading properties, weave, really everything is very similar, even the weight is barely noticeable to be heavier.

[Smallrod]

Thanks!