The Flat Head

[Rightyow77]

^ Sounds like an overseas FH add Ben    haha good stuff. I partially agree, love all my FH gear but still have a soft spot for other brands like warehouse, Evisu, Sugar Cane even Strike Gold although mostly their loop stuff, don't care much for their jeans.

[Cucoo]

I went TTS (30) on my F380s and they shrank to a perfect 30. Did they change the sizing with newer models? I always thought TFH shrinks to tag.

[dwilson123]

I went TTS (30) on my F380s and they shrank to a perfect 30. Did they change the sizing with newer models? I always thought TFH shrinks to tag.

 

I should have cautioned my statement as being too broad.  It does look like the F3XX do +1 inch to the waist.  The slimmer (3001,2,9) do not but the 3005 ... does?  I don't know confusing.  Either way if he's going with 3001 or 3002 size up!

[KPJ]

The Self Edge measurements are going to be more accurate, at least by my experience with them and versus what others have said about Denimio measurements (certainly they differed from "typical measurements" on the one pair I've ordered from them).

 

Though if you own the Momotaro 0305 - those are a tight tapered, right? The Flat Head 3005 is a pretty wide straight-leg, and will feel huge compared to your 0305s. The leg on 3005s feels big for me, and I can't even pull on Momo's tight tapered fit. If you want to get a looser thigh and top block, but keep some taper, you may be better off looking at the 3009 (some taper) or 3012 (lots of taper) instead.

Yes they are tight tapered. I stretched them out quite a lot haha. I am mostly worried about the top block fitting well, and then I can taper the legs if needed. I know people don't like tapering, but Rail Car does an amazing job, I don't mind spending the extra cash, and I don't think I will find a perfect fit from any brand. I know Flat Head quality is amazing, and I love their denim, and I don't think tapering them will affect the quality of the jean at all. I knows it's a risk but oh well. 

 

I'm really digging that flat head is back.

 

KPJ, what kind of fit are you looking for? And do you have large or smaller legs? Then we can narrow it down... But you've got to get some flat heads, there's nothing better, I guarantee it.

I am not sure what kind of legs I have. The waist on my momo's has stretched to about 34" and thighs at 11.5"-11.75" are skin tight. Maybe medium to large legs? Like I said above, I am really just looking for a top block that will fit, and then I can taper the legs if needed. I am looking at the 3005 over the 3009 because it looks like it has a higher rise, and the size 34 on the 3005 starts at 35" (which will shrink to 33"), and the size 34 on the 3009 starts at 34", which will shrink to be too small. 

 

I am avoiding the 3012 because I don't want to spend the extra cash, don't like the US arcs, and the knees are huge so I will have to taper anyways. 

[itsbenhere]

I think that the 3005 in a size 34 will start at 34" and then shrink down to about 32", but it'll stretch back to 34" in no time.

 

I'm also one who wouldn't recommend tapering, especially since flat head offers so many fits, you don't want to give the jeans weird proportions. I'm also a bit confused by when you say the knees are huge... jeans aren't supposed to be tight and you're supposed to have room in them, and the 3005 is a really good cut with normal proportions.

 

In my opinion, if you need the space in the top block that the 3005 offers, your body is well-suited to the rest of the proportions of the jean.

[KPJ]

I think that the 3005 in a size 34 will start at 34" and then shrink down to about 32", but it'll stretch back to 34" in no time.

 

I'm also one who wouldn't recommend tapering, especially since flat head offers so many fits, you don't want to give the jeans weird proportions. I'm also a bit confused by when you say the knees are huge... jeans aren't supposed to be tight and you're supposed to have room in them, and the 3005 is a really good cut with normal proportions.

 

In my opinion, if you need the space in the top block that the 3005 offers, your body is well-suited to the rest of the proportions of the jean.

Basically the cut I am going for is the same as my momotaro's, but with a roomier upper block and slightly smaller knees. Maybe I have big thighs and small calves I'm not sure, but 12" thigh - 8" knee - 6.75" hem seems to  fit me well. I don't think I get the extreme carrot look people get with huge tapers, they just look like slim fitting jeans. 

[Rightyow77]

go with the 3012, it has roomy top block and the most aggressive taper out of the FH cuts currently

[KPJ]

go with the 3012, it has roomy top block and the most aggressive taper out of the FH cuts currently

The only thing is, the top block on the 3012 is huge, I think it might be too big. What I need to do is drive to self edge and try on some different pairs haha. I am very particular about my fits, so I like them to be perfect. 

Edited January 21, 2016 by KPJ

[Sugar Mountain]

If you are within driving distance of a SE store, a visit there and advice from the staff will be so much more helpful than what we can offer here (having never seen how you look or how jeans fit on you). Nothing beats trying on before you buy if it's a garment you are going to wear daily for at least a year.

[KPJ]

If you are within driving distance of a SE store, a visit there and advice from the staff will be so much more helpful than what we can offer here (having never seen how you look or how jeans fit on you). Nothing beats trying on before you buy if it's a garment you are going to wear daily for at least a year.

I'm a coupe hours away so it is kinda a haul. Maybe next time I have to take my momo's in for repair (which might be soon) I will drive up there. Apart of me thinks I can figure it out based on the measurements I know would look good on me, but with different denims and their weight etc, its never 100% safe. 

[Sugar Mountain]

Yeah, measurements really only tell half the story. Good luck in finding the golden cut though. As others have said, TFH denim is special.

[FeloniousMonk]

Honestly, given the measurements you're talking about (post-shrink waist around 33", thigh around 12" or just under, and smaller knee/hem measurements), you should look at the 3002. You're definitely in slim-tapered territory with those measurements, and it looks like a size 34 would work based on these size charts.

[KPJ]

Honestly, given the measurements you're talking about (post-shrink waist around 33", thigh around 12" or just under, and smaller knee/hem measurements), you should look at the 3002. You're definitely in slim-tapered territory with those measurements, and it looks like a size 34 would work based on these size charts.

Yeah I have looked at the 3002, and it looks great except I want a higher rise, especially in the back. I find myself constantly adjusting how I am sitting with my momo's in the car because the back rise is so low (14"). 

 

Did your guys' waist stretch out to pre-soak measurements? Past pre-soak measurements? I stretched my waist on my momo's 2", so I have no problem doing it; I just find whenever I stretch the waist out a ton, the pockets become so hard to use. 

[itsbenhere]

Shrinkage ...

 

Shit shrinks a lot, just go get an idea.

 

3009

 

 

 

3005

 

 

[KPJ]

Jeez they really do...does your 3005 have a long rise than your 3009? And how much did the waist stretch?

[itsbenhere]

Waist will stretch out to raw measurements if you need it to, but imo the rise and waist sizes are like exactly the same.

 

I don't think it makes any sense to buy the 3005 with the intend to taper it, you might as well just save your money and get the 3009, which will be a lot easier to sell off if it doesn't work out, than some franken-3005s!

[Sugar Mountain]

I stretched my waist on my momo's 2", so I have no problem doing it; I just find whenever I stretch the waist out a ton, the pockets become so hard to use. 

 

This just doesn't sound good to me. If you can't even use the pockets on the most utilitarian of garments then something is wrong. There must be a better cut out there for you.

[KPJ]

This just doesn't sound good to me. If you can't even use the pockets on the most utilitarian of garments then something is wrong. There must be a better cut out there for you.

yeah the top block is def to small there is no doubt

[Kathrynnaomi]

Shrinkage ...

 

Shit shrinks a lot, just go get an idea.

 

3009

 

 

 

3005

 How did you soak/wash these? A lot of shrinkage there!

 

[itsbenhere]

My usual routine... Turned inside out, soaked to saturate the denim and make it more pliable, then hot washed by itself without any detergent.

[Claytonimus]

Whats the thickness like on the short sleeved buffalo check shirt? I've been eying them for a while but I wasn't sure if they'd be wearable in the summer months or not. Also what about the sizing? Is it fairly consistent with most TFH stuff?

I'd say it's a medium weight. Little bit thicker than an a Flat Head THC shirt, but probably more breathable.

I'm wearing a 38 in all shirts in the picture. I'm 5'7" like 145 lbs. I wear a 40 in THC shirts. This shirt fits similarly to other FH block check flannels.

Edited January 23, 2016 by Claytonimus

[Onderdonk]

Ben, if you don't mind -what your true waist vs tagged waist on those 3009s?

[itsbenhere]

I don't really go by the true vs. tagged anyway, but I've gained wait since I got those so I couldn't tell you.

 

From what I remember the 3009s and 3005s START true to tag size and shrink down.

[Onderdonk]

Thanks dude. I don't really either to be honest... I'm currently experimenting in sizing up (something I've not done before) and trying to set a few parameters. 

[dwilson123]

I'd say it's a medium weight. Little bit thicker than an a Flat Head THC shirt, but probably more breathable.

I'm wearing a 38 in all shirts in the picture. I'm 5'7" like 145 lbs. I wear a 40 in THC shirts. This shirt fits similarly to other FH block check flannels.

 

Thanks.  Sounds like we're pretty similar dimensions I'm just a hair taller.  I'm having issues pulling the trigger since the long sleeve winter flannels are the same price as the short sleeved summer ones which seems a bit odd.

[KPJ]

Does anyone know why Flat Head doesn't make size 35? A post-soak waist of 33" would be perfect, but that wouldn't happen with a size 34 in most of the sizes (except 3005 and 3012). I would get a 34 and stretch it back out to about 34.25", but I am a little hesitant to stretch my pair ~2" in the waist. 

 

EDIT: am i right to assume 2" shrink in the waist? Or is it more like 1.5" in the waist? Does anyone have their actual pre/post soak measurements?

Edited January 25, 2016 by KPJ

[itsbenhere]

If I were you I'd buy a pair of size 34 in whatever you're looking at (3009?), where you can exchange them easily for a 36. If you try them on we can tell if it'll work. Better than just agonizing over 2 sizes imo

[KPJ]

If I were you I'd buy a pair of size 34 in whatever you're looking at (3009?), where you can exchange them easily for a 36. If you try them on we can tell if it'll work. Better than just agonizing over 2 sizes imo

Yeah thats probably a good idea. I think I am going to make the trek to self edge this week and try on a couple pairs as well. Hopefully it will give me a really good idea as to what fit would work for me.

[sombrero]

Gonna have to vouch for the 3005.  Favorite cut since my Roy SF-01s.  Denim is nice and crunchy - bleeds ALOT. Will be washing regularly. A very flattering fit for bigger legged gents. 

 

Question: Has anyone attempted to remove the flat head pocket tag featured on most of their recent flannel shirts? Thinking of nabbing one of them, and while I'd prefer no tag, if it's difficult, I'm lazy enough to leave it be.

[itsbenhere]

I just got mine from repair and I am a very very happy guy.