Jump to content

The Flat Head


LFC4ever

Recommended Posts

To be honest in my case I've found that if I wear a true straight jean I end up with a boot cut look. I prefer a slight taper from the knee down (no more than an inch) these are my 3002 that have a 8.75 knee and 7.75 hem. I hardly find the fit feminine. What ends up happening with me is that if the thigh is slim to the knee then straight to the hem the loose part from the knee down gives and illusion that they are boot cut due to the rest of the jeans being slim

4Dn3a3n.jpg

Pbj 007

AgfrXrJ.jpg

62UpKqk.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The bootcut illusion is what happens when straight leg jeans have too much (in my opinion, any) break.  If you're wearing a cuff in all your jeans, it's pretty easy to find a length that has a little bit of break (I know people are afraid of ending up with high-waters) if it's worn uncuffed, but with a single or double cuff can basically just dust the top of a pair of boots without breaking at all.  With a straight leg jean, the double cuff will weigh the jean down, and also pull it inwards, giving a slight tapering effect that you miss out on if the jeans are resting on the top of your shoes and breaking.  This is literally the only reason that ever single Japanese dude in any magazine wearing true repro cuts, and size 7 or 8 shoes doesn't look like he's absolutely swimming in his jeans which are simultaneously eating his shoes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The bootcut illusion is what happens when straight leg jeans have too much (in my opinion, any) break.  If you're wearing a cuff in all your jeans, it's pretty easy to find a length that has a little bit of break (I know people are afraid of ending up with high-waters) if it's worn uncuffed, but with a single or double cuff can basically just dust the top of a pair of boots without breaking at all.  With a straight leg jean, the double cuff will weigh the jean down, and also pull it inwards, giving a slight tapering effect that you miss out on if the jeans are resting on the top of your shoes and breaking.  This is literally the only reason that ever single Japanese dude in any magazine wearing true repro cuts, and size 7 or 8 shoes doesn't look like he's absolutely swimming in his jeans which are simultaneously eating his shoes.

I completely agree. I guess what i'm also referring to is that to me, a slight taper from knee down is more appealing. Not only because i end up with the pseudo-bootcut but i prefer more modern "fashion friendly" fits 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know I referenced Japanese dudes wearing true repros, which probably makes it seem like I'm referring to vintage influenced styles that lean heavily on playing with fit a proportion, and not worrying so much about things being fitted, and clean, but I'm not. I think that's the point I'm getting at, is that there is nothing "fashion friendly" about using a taper to accommodate for jeans being too long.  It still looks sloppy, and instead of having a pseudo-bootcut, you end up with accordion knees.  

 

You've got really big thighs, and a small waist, which is definitely not a bad thing...and aside from finding cuts that can accommodate your thighs without being 3 inches too big in the waist, you're fortunate in that a pair of jeans won't make you look bad.  My whole point is just that a lot of dudes in exactly your same situation don't realize that with length properly addressed, a lot of jeans that you'd consider way too relaxed, or too big below the knee, can actually cut a slim, modern, silhouette.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice explanation Tyler, I've come to realize the same thing pretty recently, though I hadn't thought it through quite as much.

 

But especially with straight leg jeans, cuffing once or twice helps a lot to give the leg a rounder, cleaner shape compared to having it long and uncuffed, where the break can look a bit awkward.  I found this to be especially true with my D105s, which have a much nicer shape at the hem when cuffed.

 

Cmboland, I think your jeans look fine, I don't see the bootcut effect at all.  That being said, I think the 3012 or 3009 would also be a good fit for you.

Edited by Cold Summer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Definitely agree Tyler. I've never attempted to articulate why I always cuff so that there's no break, but to me it just looks cleaner. Even though some may not like the very hard cuffed look, I really dig it and think it looks sharp. Also, being the anal mfer that I am, I like knowing that I have a good amount of denim should I ever want to let it out. I find that unless you literally hem your jeans "perfectly" ie. resting at your heel (which is also dangerous when you consider that your tastes may change) the stacking at the bottom looks sloppy, and is especially exacerbated when you note the fact that many into raw denim have more new jeans that resemble cardboard than those that resemble soft and pliable denim.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know I referenced Japanese dudes wearing true repros, which probably makes it seem like I'm referring to vintage influenced styles that lean heavily on playing with fit a proportion, and not worrying so much about things being fitted, and clean, but I'm not. I think that's the point I'm getting at, is that there is nothing "fashion friendly" about using a taper to accommodate for jeans being too long.  It still looks sloppy, and instead of having a pseudo-bootcut, you end up with accordion knees.  

 

You've got really big thighs, and a small waist, which is definitely not a bad thing...and aside from finding cuts that can accommodate your thighs without being 3 inches too big in the waist, you're fortunate in that a pair of jeans won't make you look bad.  My whole point is just that a lot of dudes in exactly your same situation don't realize that with length properly addressed, a lot of jeans that you'd consider way too relaxed, or too big below the knee, can actually cut a slim, modern, silhouette.  

This makes total sense. I ran into a situation where a local tailor blew it on a hem job for me and hemmed one leg at a 31 and the other at a 30". I got them both evened to 30" when im used to 32" (the flat heads) they actually looked super clean even though they were essentially a straight cut below the knee. The big difference was that they had a cleaner break at the ankle.

 

Sorry for picture spam

GLjm1aV.jpg

Edited by cmboland
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for posting that photo...I think that's probably the best demonstration I've seen of what I'm talking about in a photo.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for posting that photo...I think that's probably the best demonstration I've seen of what I'm talking about in a photo.  

It looks much better from the side  I'll post my uncuffed flat heads against that shorter cleaner inseam for comparison with the same boots

 

FH3002 Inseam 32" 

zyuQWO6.jpg

 

Samurai s710xx Inseam 30" 

B4ogQnS.jpg

rL8aSCh.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For what it's worth - like in b_F's picture above, straight-leg jeans tend to go well with engineer boots, because the wider shaft of the boot fills out the hem of a straight-leg pair really nicely.  Choosing the right footwear is a big part of what makes a pair of jeans look good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very true. I love Vans, yet I think that the Era or Authentic looks awful worn with a wide leg opening. And on the other hand, I hate boots with huge soles paired with slim fits. That's also why I wrote on the page back, that a slimmer fit attributes to a more modern look. There are some styles, and I think of engineer boots, suspenders, vests, hats etc. that I still feel to young to wear. But these would look odd paired with a slim fit. Well, you catch my drift.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Short engineers look good with jeans like the 3001 or 1001 that have a medium-sized hem, but I agree with you, boots don't look as good with slim tapered jeans.  I'm a big fan of Vans too but I don't see myself wearing them with my straight legged D105, those jeans were born to be worn with some badass boots.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm afraid that those might be too small after you wash them... it's seriously insane how much a wash made my jeans shrink.  I feel like with Flat Head's pioneer denim a hot wash up front is kind of obligatory.

 

I only ever really soak, and mildly handwash. I'm not worried.

Edited by reedwill
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright guys, here's my fit after about 3 weeks wear I think.  I'll be washing in probably a week or so so I'll post some before and after evo as I already see a little.  I really couldn't ask for a better jean, this is pretty much my first straight-cut jean and I'm very stoked on how different it feels! 

 

IMG_4112.jpg

 

IMG_4105.jpg

Edited by itsbenhere
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks dudes!  Brad, that depends on what you'd call tts.... these are a size 33 but I am not a 33 waist.  They measured 32.5 pre-soak and I'll be damned if after a hot wash they didn't hit 30" in the waist.  They were pretty damn tight in the top block (not the thighs) and contrary to what I've heard before, they stretched right back out to a 32 in just a few days of wear.  

 

I probably wouldn't trust these to stretch in the thighs because for some reason that area is just different, and I can't count how many times I've heard of people washing them and the thighs just becoming way too tight.  The thighs were always very comfortable on these so luckily that wasn't a problem for me.

 

In my opinion the size 33 is best for someone who is around a 31-32" waist or at least around that ballpark. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I finally got around to snapping some pictures of my 2111's.

I got these back in July but didn't start wearing them heavily right away, 20 oz denim in the Texas summer is rough.

But I would say I have about 3 or 4 months of wear into them so far.

A couple of soaks and a machine wash after a bar incident that ended with my leg covered in beer.  :P

Really hard to get the lighting right in my apartment, but it's sunny today so I tried to get the color the best I could.

ZE1AOhFl.jpg
fmpuPRSl.jpg
2yystlyl.jpg
S53cAFJl.jpg
hs3irZgl.jpg
2Ol0Z4ll.jpgWgiNxYll.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...