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the best fitting technical term is probably seam puckering - usually, something we don't want to happen in garment production!

it's driven by stitch class/type, thread tension, thread size, fabric thickness and seam construction. even needle size can play into this.

lined yokes will add to the layers of fabric forming the seam: back yoke seams are typical felled seams - fake felled seams will need 3 (seam allowance) fabric layers - real felled seams will have 4-5 fabric layers.
lined yokes would add add another 1-2 layers...

depending on fabric and lining fabric thickness this can result in pretty rigid seams if one does not optimize seam type, stitch density, stitch width, thread size, thread tension and needle size.

SDA used to do lined yokes for their higher end or special make-ups with triple-stitched back yokes. also, these models featured heavier, starchy and rigid denim.

lined yokes (or lined back pocket bags) can create an additional issue if one of the fabrics shrinks at a significantly different rate and/or direction.

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I’ve decided preeeetty much that I will pull the trigger on a pair of sd103 as my next purchase, but I’m struggling a bit with sizing with SDA. My fav fitting pair of jeans are my much loved TCB 60s, and as far as I can tell, the 103 share quite a similar cut, just a cm or so higher rise. But I’m sure I’ve read that sda shrinkage is quite pronounced. I’m wearing a 32 in the TCBs and could probably get away with a 31. Should I go for a 32 in SDA? Cheers 

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7 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

I’d go for a 32 I think, what’s your actual waist size?

A bit under 32”. 

Edit just measured - actually a bit under 33 actual measured waist size.

Edited by holio cornolio
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I love those superb detail shots!!!!!!!!

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Thanks Ruedi!
To my surprise the jeans barely shrank in the wash. My usual routine (first soak to make them pliabe, then machine wash with detergent @ 40 °C) only shrank them 1" in the waist and inseam. Makes me think it might have been better to take size 34 in these despite the lower rise. But I gonna wash them at 60 °C this weekend and hope I can get another inch of shrinkage in both waist and inseam. 

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Preview for the 40th anniversary were up on Okayama Denim's instagram stories. Looked like 4 pairs of jeans for the anniversary. Really curious what the specs will look like

 

On other news, recently I complained about the lack of roping on SdA jeans. I don't think I will have problems with this on the D1708:

hdf7UKDl.jpgcCih7tbl.jpg

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21 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Preview for the 40th anniversary were up on Okayama Denim's instagram stories. Looked like 4 pairs of jeans for the anniversary. Really curious what the specs will look like

 

On other news, recently I complained about the lack of roping on SdA jeans. I don't think I will have problems with this on the D1708:

hdf7UKDl.jpgcCih7tbl.jpg

yeah, looking forward to that as well - there should be at least one interesting pair in there for us.
maybe PSA gets inthere as well with an additional spin...

good news regarding the roping of your hems!

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Bought this hickory stripe shirt in the new SDA store in Ebisu/Dakinyama, haven't seen it elsewhere. Label's different to my other SDA shirts so thinking it may be exclusive to the Ebisu store? Anyone else came across it? Seen similar but with different buttons?

lS7D6Jz.jpg

 

6ABgCsx.jpg

 

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