blooming

3 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Yeah, the Kyoto is rather slim. Has similarities to the Resolute 710.

I am still searching for a W36 in this cut because of the slimmer nature.

My Kyotos in size 32 fit almost identically to Resolute 710 in 33. They are slightly lower rise and a little less tapered, though.

I wear my FC 1108 black/black pretty often. Depending on your size, you may still be able to find a pair. I don't know too much about the denim used for these aside from it being the same weight as their normal 13.7oz. 

I would be very interested.

I've been living in my 400T since January. Just wore them on a two week trip, traveling all over Vietnam. Gave them their first wash when I got home the other day, so I'll post some pics soon.

Here's a friend who happened to be in Tokyo during my layover and I at Hinoya. I've got the 400T on, as well as the denim traveling shirt: 

Yeah, they run fairly small for tops. 40 or 42 seems to be the biggest size they had for most items.

Visited The Flat Head store in Harajuku (Jinguemae) when in Tokyo a couple of weeks ago. Got a tee and a black/yellow checked flannel workshirt. The store clerk was incredibly friend and enthusiatic and helped me out with sizing. Highly recommend that shop any time you're in the area/

7 hours ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

That was quick  (well, also took a long time). 03's arrived today. These are 32's. Good bit of play in the waist raw still. Gonna go for maximum shrinkage on these straight away (whenever that is - honestly probably 2025 or even later). 

Denim seems a touch grayer and a touch more irregular than on my recent 01's. Lovely details in the stitching compared to my 01's, pocket bags are nice too. 

Last photo are my 01's in size 31 which I love the fit of in general and are completely comfortable now but I really had to stretch the waist out - which happened in about a few hours of wear. 0A's denim seem to stretch pretty forgivingly - can't be sure with the 03's but it feels similar enough to the 01 that I wouldn't be surprised. I've only worn the 01's a handful of times so far too and I think they will fade relatively quickly...but even these I'm not sure will be in regular rotation until next summer or fall. These are more just to show fit, the light isn't good for showing the denim. In general, this patterning feels a notch above a lot of repro's I've encountered - at least for my frame. We'll see how it all wears with time though.

 

That's more or less exactly how mine fit me pre-wash. Those look spot-on!

6 hours ago, Geeman said:

Lucky bags have never appealed to me, I know it's a traditional sale thing in Japan but I want to know what I'm paying for up front!

Also, finally got round to trying on the 1108xx. Really disappointed with it. For me the tight top block (probably their tightest) with an 8 inch LO doesn't work. 

I know you lot are going to say that's not a big LO , but with a thigh at 11.5 it felt like a boot cut on me. 

Mine started off feeling very tight in the top block, but the hips and upper thigh do stretch a good amount, just not as quickly as the 13.7oz denim version. I wear a size 32 and after a year of wearing and washing, the leg opening measures closer to 7.6.

15 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Yeah I would expect mine to not shrink much more. They are quite tight in the crotch area which is not reflected in the measurements (and what I didn't expect as well).

Yeah, I found this too wearing them after the first wash, but once they stretched a softened up a bit after maybe a week of wear, that went away.

With a zippo in my coin pocket, I literally can't even fit my hand in the front right pocket of my 3009s 🤣 

That said, the pocket bags themselves are nicer than most other pairs in my closet.

On 12/28/2023 at 7:03 AM, jsky808080 said:

thansk for the input. i agree the back doesnt look great, and perhaps i'll look for a lower rise next time i purchase jeans. can definatley wear them lower as well.

i did only soak them once (warm) and washed once in 40 degrees or whatever the washing machien does for Warm wash. would you consider doing another warm wash, or even a hot wash? i do seem to have quite a lot of fabric all over, and i think if waist comes in more it would probably just stretch out to 34'' anyways. i have only worn these a brief time post second wash - so maybe back area will fall into place better - they dont feel overly tight in this area - roomy really

I didnt take detailed numnbers on how much they have shrank, just the waist - and seems the waist has shrunk to wear it should be.  there is a lot of fabric in the thighs and legs overall, easily a couple extra inches - which suprises me as they are far more roomy in this area than my sugar cane 1947's (my SC's I couldnt size down as thighs too tight - but have SO much space in teh 224). this threw me off to the point i wonder if I have an odd-cut jean

Could I ask you - based on the few pics i posted - is there a jean you think would suit my frame? or would a smaller size in the denime 221 be the answer (i was just anxious then may be too tight in waist). I'm 5'7, 160 lbsish, broadish shoulders (so I tend to think straighish cuts work rather than tapers). i feel with the SC1947 and denime 221 i have the 50s ish thing covered - but any 60s style denim (or other 50s) you think could work. guess i should look for a shorter back rise

60s I had considered: Denime 224, Denime 221, Resolute 711, SC 1966 (was thinking rise quite high then strong taper may be a bit unflattering on me), TCB 60s (lower rise, but not sure TCB would work on my frame in general and have'nt seen great photos of these cuts working)

50s/others considered: Resoute 711, Denime 220a, Resolute 714, Resolute 711 but thought rise may be too low)

The Denime 224 cut is great. I’ve been wearing mine quite a bit. The rise is notably lower than the 220a, but still in mid territory.

These are the details we're here for. I'm looking at my OA WW2 pair. The coin pocket and the pocket-bag denim are both the same, perpendicular to the legs, as well. Now I want to go through the rest of my closet to look for this.

5 minutes ago, reallypeacedoff said:

I’m actually glad I didn’t know about FW, my wallet would have obliged, but grudgingly.

SDA is M’arijuan by the way @blooming.

Not sure why I didn’t look up Hinoya but Bears was enough for me. It’s not crazy far but with multiple trains and not sure how early you need to be for the next flight, you could Uber all those locations, not as cheap as the trains but no navigation required. 😎

The first day will be from about 4pm-1:30am, and the way back will be 6am until 4:30pm. I think that gives a nice window to try things that may only be open earlier in the day and also some restaurants/bars that open later. Thanks again for the recs!

I wore the 224 to band practice last night, and the outsides of both of my hands were deep blue. Those things shed dye like crazy.

Thanks @Geeman @reallypeacedoff and @tooth! I noticed that one area has almost every shop I'd wanna visit aside from Bears or Hinoya, neither of which is particularly far. I'm actually really excited for M'ARIJUAN as well, I don't own enough SDA pieces.

Booked flights for a trip to SE Asia, but I have a 10 hour layover in Tokyo on the way there and an 8 hour layover on the way back. Flat Head store in Shibuya is one of the first on my list. Seems like the shop has nothing but great reviews.

20 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

Most cuts labeled “relaxed tapered” seem to really be more in the slim–tapered to narrow–tapered range, these days, so maybe TCB isn’t far off after all…

True. PBJ 019 comes to mind. My waist size in those fit my legs like skinny jeans circa 2005 🤣

2 hours ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

Usually with OA the rule is to size up 2 from normal, not one. I tend to be between 29-30 depending on brand and cut and my OA's (01) in 31 shrunk to pretty snug in the waist (but stretched out easy) but great everywhere else. I took a 32 with the 03's for a (hopefully) looser, slightly oversized fit. My guess is the waist will shrink but barely stretch back out due to lack of tension on it - but I don't think I'll see them for a few months to know. This is to say, I'm in a similar spot where I think 2 diff sizes will work for me.

Mine shrunk to 29.5" in the waist. S&S put 29.9" as their post-wash, so I think that's pretty spot on for the most part.

3 hours ago, obama said:

Great fit!  To me, the w32 fits great even with a hot bath.  Wonder why you think w33 would also fit?

so you just get size up 1inch by you usual size (31)?  

Was on the fence because I found the hem a bit too wide on measurement. But yours look great. 

After wearing these out all day today, I take it back and think these are spot on. The waist and hips were very snug initially but they’ve already stretched to be comfortable. The rise could be slightly higher on these for me, but that’s fine. 33 would have given a more classic, wider fit which I was almost expecting, but since these have zero taper whatsoever, they accomplish that in the leg opening.

Edit: And yeah, my size for most Japanese brands is 31 or 32, very occasionally a 30 (as I’ve learned with newer Denime). I’m a 32 with Warehouse 800xx or 31 in 1001xx, 31 for all TCB cuts I own (I would be 32 for their 50s), and 31 in most FC cuts.

OA03 cut is very nice. Size 32. 33 would have also fit, but I'm liking the fit a lot. Gave them a 1-hour soak in the hottest water my bathtub provides, and then a warm machine wash on gentle with no detergent. They shrank to slightly below S&S's predicted measurements, so I'm confident they are fully shrunk at this point.

Denim is really, really nice. I don't have anything similar to it in feel or appearance. 

4 minutes ago, CharlieMike said:

@floraison Thank you for your reply. Can I ask you what size you are in 714 and in Denime 221? I wear 221 in W32 and 714 in W33.

Size 32 for 711, I don’t have a pair of 714. Denime 221 is size 31.

4 hours ago, CharlieMike said:

I received my Resolute 714, size W33, I wonder if I should have taken a W34. Does anyone know if it stretches a lot after wearing it for several days? Is shrinkage expected after washing? Compared to the One Wash measurements, does it shrink or not?

My 711 (same denim as 714) didn’t shrink at all after a warm wash/machine dry. They do stretch a bit, so you are probably fine.

11 hours ago, Geeman said:

Their newer version of the Slim 50s is a great cut. If  the lee repro is near them will be great for me

The newer slim 50s are in my main rotation, truly a great cut. They are roomier in the top block than most cuts labeled “relaxed taper”, though, so the name isn’t entirely accurate lol

It was my 220 that didn’t shrink as much, they ended up about half an inch above tag size. The 221 shrank to exactly tag size, so it’s negligibly the same.

@Geeman thigh on 224 for size 30 is just under 12”/30cm after shrinking, hem at 7.5”/19.5cm.

47 minutes ago, Geeman said:

Interested in seeing what the shrinkage is like in the 224. 

Mine shrunk tag size (30”) in the waist, and are at 32.5” in length, so pretty close to tag size there as well.