AlientoyWorkmachine

I’m loving fullcount 0105 these days. It’s still repro styled, I guess, but the cut is more generous than really anything else I’m aware of, but it doesn’t look over the top. Agreed more specificity is needed. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a good looking pair of jeans that wasn’t a traditional cut (there’s a wide variety).

Yea to be quite honest I too am probably more inclined towards a long haul jacket contest than a jeans contest. Make it 4 years or something. But it still comes down to the item itself, I would need to like the item more than the idea of competing (because really I wouldn’t be).

I picked up my black FC 0105 for about $180 USD. I got the black/natural version but the black/black was about the same if I recall. You might email one of the retailers to see if a restock will come, I am not sure if it is part of the regular rotation now. The TCB 40’s aren’t available anymore - TCB made a black 30’s more recently, but I think those will be hard to track down too. In the absence of any of these, I really would look again at the Indigofera Kirk. It seems to be the only consistently produced pair (the Japanese brands tend to do limited runs). I would take those over McCoys, personally. Another maker that I’ve seen in this forum with black jeans is Phigvel, though iirc they were on the pricier side. As an aside, that selection from Blue Owl is rough. Everything is still relaxed tapered.

Fullcount released a few of their cuts in black, probably could still find those. OP doesn’t say it has to be black/black, but FC has both versions depending on cuts I think. Also, indigofera gunpowder denim. That’s what I ended up with a few years ago when I wanted a black denim jean that wasn’t a slim fit. Kirk was the fit. They’re beater jeans now but it’s a good pair.

They’ve been slow to respond to email inquiry for me in the past - i think like a week plus. But never that slow if I ordered something!

I’ve almost sprung for these in the past. But the zip fly and suspender buttons put me off. Still might, someday.

To be honest I’m generally not one for contests (never did one), but I’ll follow along to see what’s come up with. So, maybe.

My ridiculous username should be the giveaway here. Though, between Tender 132’s and Fullcount 0105’s I’m quite happy these days when I want to scratch that itch. They’re different, but both a little better suited to a middle aged man than some original Droors Stencil jeans. But I’d still love to see a TCB interpretation of this - it would be nicer because in the 90’s the mass market jeans pretty much sucked by then - you don’t want to directly reproduce that - so to make a 90’s cut with the maybe a good denim and repro details that TCB does. The cut couldn’t be too full though - I never went too far in the 90s and wouldn’t want to now.

Hear me out. 90’s. That’s the only contest I’m in for.

The avg. height of a male in the U.S. is 5’9” A 30” inseam is usually plenty for that height, with even a little extra for a cuff if you want. It can depend a bit on your particular frame. I’m 5’8” and jeans that come 30” out of the box with a nice chain stitch hem are too long, but good if turned up. I wish more came that length. Obviously lots of dudes are taller but it’s hard to call that the norm.

Those look fine! Also, you can uncuff. You do you but I wouldn’t shelve those at all.

Tender

The double arcs are great - but the best part is that they leave some room to shape them into something that isn’t the Levi’s version.

I'm of the mentality that the fit should come first (unless you're going for the loose sort of anti fit thing, which is great, and then a cm here and there doesn't much matter). But it's really no fun to size up for the thighs/top block and then have a waist that's sloppy...especially if you're looking to dress them up sometimes. By measurements, the 714 would work for me, but they'd still cut it close and I've avoided them for that reason (that and I have enough). The idea of dressing them up or down is very likely just because you've seen them styled that way because of the preferences of Hayashi-san. They're blue jeans and like @yung_flynn said other brands will work just fine for this - it's more the fit and the minimal detailing that makes them suitable, not anything particular about Resolute. I'd start with your hopeful top block measurements for a given waist size and see where that gets you brand wise. Another brand that is often style more Ivy is Boncoura - their XX fit might work (not war model but still repro). I have to plug the Freewheelers '51 here also - it's pretty affordable from Japan, takes well to washing, and has a generous but still more refined silhouette. The stitching will last you longer than WH/Denime too, if that matters. They have a '47 too, but it sounds like the '51 might actually work better for what you want.

@YourArsenal is there a reason you're set on Resolute? Nothing against them but they tend to run slim, and if you're looking for a WWII model you've got other options, with what sounds like cuts that might be a little more suited to what you're looking at in a given waist size.

Cottle/Sugar Cane/Full Count

Mister Freedom / OA / Tender Just recently turned 40, I think I’m looking a little more tired. But feeling pretty good.

Not the same pair, but my 601xx 1951 - which is the same denim - has not noticeably shrunken after washes other than the waist which stretches out. It’s a bit of a looser weave than some other denims. I tend to be a 30 and my FW are on the slightly more generous side of the 30’s I own.

Perfect sweatshirt for your type 2

Bears went back to normal prices some time ago. Not sure what it was, but I picked up my black ones for like 185 USD including shipping. As to OP's question, not sure there's a best place to order from - lots of these shops have similar service and FC isn't as hard to track down as some brands.

I recently broke out my black pair of 0105. I take a 30 in most brands at this point and I found the 30 to be just a little more snug on day one than the others, but on day 2 wasn’t feeling that any more. I do on occasion wear a 29 (my WH 1003xx are 29 and the waist feels like this FC 30) but I wouldn’t size down. Because it’s a full cut it would be fine but the waist wouldn’t be fun. If there’s doubt email Bears to confirm measurements.

Stupidly warm day here for late February. So much so that a jacket was optional, and a lined jacket even with a t shirt was too much. So I pulled out this old thing that doesn’t see so much wear lately, but it’s still coming along okay.

For what it's worth, I think the idea of trying to find the truest repro of any given model is sort of a journey into the abyss. Different details matter more to different makers and the emphasis may be in different places. The cut of a single pair varied in any given year they were made, and different makers can have true vintage pairs of a given model made on the same day and still extrapolate a pattern that would yield different fits for different sizes. It's one of those the sum of the parts is greater than the whole sorts of things - if you drill down deep enough you will find inconsistencies in just about any of the best ones out there (again, where you find them is dependent on what your own biases are), and at that point you're missing the forest for the trees. If one of the trusted brands releases a model that is a direct repro I am going to trust that the of course it will have their own spin on it, but they are being faithful to it in all the ways that matter most to them. The make or break - I would think - is whether or not you like the fit - that matters a lot more than a V stitch.

It’s actually a great suggestion because I don’t know what I’m missing with what I don’t have, and I am definitely curious about what FW does best even if it’s not my normal sort of thing. So the insight is exactly the sort I was hoping for. But it would be the most expensive item of clothing I’d ever bought - or that I even own - outstripping a wonderful Inis Meain cashmere and merino cardigan (which is quite similar but lighter) that I was gifted some time ago. Perhaps at another stage in life…if they ever release it again.

Haha I’m a fan, but more a fan of my wife I do admit. This definitely would qualify as a “discussion” purchase and I strive to keep those to a minimum.