sensy

Oh snap, the tricolore-weft is back (https://www.tenderstores.com/product/type-497-open-shoulder-floor-shirt/?variation=33143). I love my shirt in that material (even tho it's just slightly too small for my current weight). Tell Second Sunrise or Maritime Antiques & to pick up some shirts in that material @rodeo bill (sadly import duties makes it slightly too expensive for me to order directly from you right now).

Also, will there be other shirts in tricolore?

1 hour ago, Duke Mantee said:

Thanks mate - and you too. Is that cloe horsehide?

I actually don't know the exact tannery. A couple of months ago Tatra/shellcordovan had some odd lot horsebutts for a pretty decent deal and I bought two for the heck of it. I used half of the less figured one for this bag, gonna use the real nice one for when I’m comfortable making a real nice pair of boots for myself. 

Very nice work @Duke Mantee. Meanwhile I finished this 

35 minutes ago, Duke Mantee said:

You’re absolutely right - there is no real correct answer. 

I disagree about sewing the uppers though. For me they should be handsewn; we do it for bags, wallets, belts etc so there’s no reason in my mind that uppers can’t be handsewn. Soles and heels are very difficult so shaping down a heel with a sander could be argued as still being handmade.

I think the thing that bothers me most is the businesses are rather disingenuous about what handmade can mean - so really it’s the lack of integrity rather than the lack of skill, because as I’ve said before it takes no little skill to be a good machinist 

Businesses should just be open as to how they do things instead of using non defined buzzwords and we're good, I guess. But we all know and understand why that's not gonna happen. 

As for sewing the uppers, maybe it's just cause I'm not used to ever seeing handsewn ones that makes it easy for me to accept machine sewn ones as handmade. It's also completely a waste of time and energy to handsewn them, nothing practical is really gained from it, while you could argue a saddle stitch does add some longevity to a wallet, bag or belt. 

Again, no true answer but for me it's a feels thing, and I feel this is correct for me. 

11 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

I’m seconding @chicote here - it’s no mean feat (geddit?) to make footwear from scratch, especially as complex as this.

There aren’t many boots I ever seen that are handmade (lots of makers are happy to say handmade when they’re really not), so it’s great to see this

I think it's an interesting question where it stops being handmade (with no definitive answer). Belt sander for the heel/soles? Definitely still handmade imo. Sewing machine for the upper? Also OK I think. I'm using bought, machine made linen thread, and some people makes that by hand. It's fun to think about, but also I'm only doing it this way because of what equipment I have, and which parts I find interesting to learn. I'm probably going to look for a cheap sander because finishing the heel is boring as shit.

@chicote thank you, i really appreciate it!

14 minutes ago, mlwdp said:

My grails…and I want them in horsehide (again), not calf like they’re currently selling for now.

These aren't Clinch, they're King's Boots (kings_boots_cn on Instagram) with his arch support sole thing. Super comfy. 

I made a (singular) boot by hand (as in every single stitch and cut and everything) boot to learn stuff.  It might not be pretty but it is technically wearable.  Still have a lot of cleanup and detail work left. 
 

Got a pair of jodhpurs from kings_boots_cn on Instagram today. They're very nice imo and the fit is great for my short and wide hobbit feet. 

My old pair of 125 (just before I'm about to wash them) with my very simple handmade horsebutt belt. 

Tender Sidings Boots

Purse I made that I can't post on Instagram cause it's a birthday gift for my mom. 
 

Attractions I've been wearing for a year or so. 

This is the purse I’ve been working on for a bit. There are definitely things to improve, but I’m pretty happy with it. 

39 minutes ago, Duke Mantee said:

Would you say Amy Roke is better quality/function than KSBlade?

No, they are both good but in different ways. KSBlade feels sharper, as in I actually don’t have to punch to get through like 2mm leathers, just push a bit. KS is also better at going through thicker leathers - the teeth doesn’t really get wider at the end body end of the punch. They are heavy and thick, once placed on the leather they don’t really move or slide around, but also they are so thick it’s kind of difficult to see if you’re completely in line. 
Amy Roke feels more refined. I wouldn’t punch through more than 4mm (KS limit is more like 6), but to be honest I’ve been enjoying just making marks on 2mm+ and then using an awl with the AR punches.

Making bags or wallets I think I’d prefer Amy Roke, for belts and thick heavy shit, KSBlade all the way. 

42 minutes ago, Duke Mantee said:

Cheers! I use Crimson Hides irons … they seem to be very clean (especially at smaller sizes). The irons and thread were driven by the Baranil leather - it’s skived down to 0.6mm so it’s a bit clumsy to use threads approaching that dimension 

I've been using 3.85mm KSBladePunch irons for quite a while (that I for some reason ordered in the Japanese/diamond style) and they've been great, but I didn't want to deal with their order times and import tax mess ups, so I found a place that sells both Amy Roke and Crimson Hides more locally. I kind of wanted to go the CH route, but they only had 2+5 or 2+5+12 tooth combos, and I honestly find the 5 tooth to be silly. Amy Roke had 2+8 so that's perfect for me. Very clean holes, and completely ridiculous polish on the teeth. Like my one complaint is that they are so mirror shined - they glide so easy it's sort of hard to keep the irons in place when lining up the first strike.

edit: Forgot to mention their awl - I love it. I've been forced to use awls more and more with the bags and it's pretty fun once I learned to stop placing my fingers on the spot I pierce through.

2 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

Thank you

It’s 8SPI / 3.25mm with 0.4mm thread

I recently bought some pricking irons in that size (Amy Roke), and I’ve been using it on a purse I’m making. Maybe a bit small for bigger bags, but I’ve been really enjoying smaller and smaller stitching lately. Great job on that wallet!

18 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

Ok, it’s not a belt … 

 

Shinki oil tan Cordovan 

Tanneries Degermann Baranil

Waldes vintage zipper

Durable dot snap

12x card slots, 3x receipt/notes pockets and a zipper section

… and a quick pic to show the guts of it before final assembly 

Nice! What's the SPI/stich mm on that?

Thanks @Duke Mantee and @Maynard Friedman. I tend to focus on the flaws on what I make and it makes it hard to judge how good/mediocre/bad they actually are. 

My guess (I didn't really track the time) is that it took 40 or more hours to make the latest bag, so you know. It's difficult to justify  

I’ve been getting more leatherwork done this year than all of last year. All for myself or friends/family cause I still feel there are too big flaws for me to charge what I’d have to for the time it takes. Anyway, I just finished this. 
 

@Duke Mantee It's lined with a thin, veg tanned calf. It's an extremely simple bag inside, no extra compartments or anything.

On 1/23/2023 at 1:17 PM, Duke Mantee said:

My pattern knife - It’s not very old - I’ve only had this for about a year - but the design has been unchanged for decades … single piece of solid brass, 2 set screws and a steel blade

These are my main leather knives. I have horribly brass reactive body oil so while my knife isn't much older than yours, it sure looks like it is.