Duke Mantee

I’ve probably had/have more 601XX 51’s than that - anyway it’s hardly a problem when you’ve a pair for each day of the week … Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Today

Correct The loops were used in conjunction with the straps of the dungarees

The Gemsa is a really good shirt - I got the navy purple one a couple of years ago … more like a jacket than a shirt IMO

… I can’t see what that shop is because I can’t get Yahoo Auctions here, but you saying 29” seems to confirm my point about variety of sizing methods. Strangely you didn’t refer McFly measurements despite quoting the shop earlier although Avenue, Speedway and others are also stating 30”+ for a Large I’ve seen denims being measured with enough different approaches to give you an inch or more in size and they probably need to be a bit more precise. Unless you actually need a 60” chest jacket we’re getting to the point of when an inch or so makes no substantial difference. The shoulder width will play a big part in the drape at this stage. FW might be a bit slimmer than an original contract M-1948, but as I said, the variation of sizes depending on the contract year was noticeable. If in actual fact you want to compare to a Real McCoys version that’s an entirely different question. I don’t rate RMC much so I don’t have any substantial knowledge here but a quick google gives one retailer stating a Medium is 63cm (25”) and McFly say a FW Medium is 73cm (29”) … I’d say that was a significant difference.

I see you edited your original post by way of an answer. I didn’t read the McFly store comments. The information I’d collected over the years came from military forums, blogs and auction sites. There’s a bit of variation between contracts and, I’m guessing, how owners have measured. But as an example here a Large M-1948 (actual 1948 pattern since there were many) the pit to pit is 32” and the FW measurement is 31” https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/army-m1948-m48-fishtail-parka-cotton-1788739250 Anyway I guess the real question is what size do you actually need given the chest measurements are hovering around the 5 foot mark.

I wasn’t aware FW version was so much smaller Data I have for medium and large parkas was around 58-61” on the chest which seems to be more or less in line with FW sizing? (allowing for the various methods of measurement and the original contract variations)

Sedgwick bridle and Japanese brass

Horsehide, Vachetta straps and (from the defunct Clayton tannery) mellow tanned pockets

Should be able to get that fixed I’d imagine

Yes - correct ✅

I’ve never heard of him until @buler posted that vid Do you think what he says is technically correct despite being biased? Watching that Alden vid is pretty damning regarding the quality.

I’d send these back - finishing is atrocious and it worries me the seller has used these pics insofar as it’s possible he thinks the standard of build is good. I’ve owned 2 pairs of Alden shoes - one pair similar to the D2614 but with a raised seam on the moc toe which had the seam on different positions so it didn’t look a pair, the other was a plain tie blucher and the sole needed replacing within weeks. My experiences with these mean I’d never buy another of pair of Alden’s. I bought a pair of Rancourt beef rolls many years ago while I was working in the US - a colleague recommended them. They were heavily reduced in a sale. They were probably worth the sale price; I wasn’t really impressed but they were comfortable for the office. I’m pretty sure their shoes are Blake stitched, so that goes some way to keeping their prices down.

Given the strength and durability of a saddle stitch I would suggest it is better placed in a boot than a wallet - I think what we see then is actually how business efficiency (time=money) has convinced us that a handmade boot doesn’t need to be saddle stitched. It used to be a bespoke suit was entirely hand stitched but it’s now not uncommon to find that long seam lines are now machine stitched … it’s still handmade because the rules of engagement have changed to suit the landscape. It’s really not a discussion about quality as such - more the confusion that arises when a customer can’t understand why item A is $X but item B is 3x $X … because item A has a few finishing stitches done by hand and item B is everything done by hand and both ‘legitimately’ claim handmade status. I see it here fairly often - and mostly centred around footwear and larger leather items.

What are you currently wearing?

I like Guidi leathers - they have a nice finish generally Is the belt all horse or backed by cowhide? I like the stitching too

You’re absolutely right - there is no real correct answer. I disagree about sewing the uppers though. For me they should be handsewn; we do it for bags, wallets, belts etc so there’s no reason in my mind that uppers can’t be handsewn. Soles and heels are very difficult so shaping down a heel with a sander could be argued as still being handmade. I think the thing that bothers me most is the businesses are rather disingenuous about what handmade can mean - so really it’s the lack of integrity rather than the lack of skill, because as I’ve said before it takes no little skill to be a good machinist

Tell me more @l13902733261 - your vintage buckle?

I’m seconding @chicote here - it’s no mean feat (geddit?) to make footwear from scratch, especially as complex as this. There aren’t many boots I ever seen that are handmade (lots of makers are happy to say handmade when they’re really not), so it’s great to see this

Yeah from the pic mate … but I had something in my mind, some vague memory this had been stated somewhere (maybe another forum). Plus his album was ‘63 and the 551 were ‘61/62? Anyway I was hoping/wondering if the pic maybe jogged a memory

… he came up in some other chat but this Bob Dylan shot from his Freewheelin’ album is a classic. Maybe doc or some other luminary might confirm or otherwise but are these 551ZXX?

… just trying to speed up the patina for you mate 😉

For @MJF9 - a Wickett & Craig ‘American Vachetta’ rough out with a solid brass buckle that’s been sanded and re-polished to allow the metal to oxidise very quickly.

Great value for money compared to the bulk of their peers Sadly I don’t think they are still in operation (could be wrong)

Best arcs EVER

We recognise each clan by their tartan