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andrewlb

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Posts posted by andrewlb

  1. 6 hours ago, CARLOOA said:

    Damn. There is a faq we compiled. Y’all lazy and shouldn’t be rewarded with responses.
     

    Delamination is inevitable—especially with two different fabrics but proper garment care can considerably prolong useful life. 

    Did not realize that was shared appreciate it.

    For those others who are lost: 

     

  2. 5 hours ago, overeasy said:

    I think the common issue of delamination is purely due to improper care (e.g. infrequent washing due to fear of fading). It's the dry clean only mentality that comes with a $1k+ jacket, delamination is not inevitable and definitely avoidable with proper care.

    Paclite feels to me like wearing a biodegradable plastic bag, Goretex Pro much preferred lol

    I’m admittedly paranoid about this. Is there a “definitive guide” to cleaning floating around somewhere on this forum? Particularly the GT Pro. Also, the Acronym CS folk said for the J58-ws one should clean it monthly-ish.

  3. 14 hours ago, thatslapz said:

    For it's weight and properties, the WS will hold up very well.  I treat/wear them the same as I would GT Pro.  The only WS item (of 9) I had issues with was the 46WS, which was a couple small holes due to the metal zipper.  A GT patch fixed the issue.  My J25WS which I have used heavily for five years  has held up great, minus the inside layer is beginning to deteriorate around the neck.  The other benefit of GT is the network of authorized repairers that will fix anything you wouldn't want to DIY. 

    Really appreciate this context. So basically, I shouldn’t stress wearing a messenger bag or backpack (though maybe not the sandpaper that is a goruck bag).

  4. Quick J58-WS update. Just arrived today. Fits exactly like I was hoping (I'm medium, 32 waist, 40 chest, 182cm 80kg). I can layer thinner things under it and it was fine (thinner fleece, but not a chunky sweater for example). Walking around I didn't find it bunched as someone mentioned. The warmth is great, and the pockets are huge. I don't have the previous version as a reference though, so comparisons are limited.

    My only hesitation is that the material feels quite delicate, including those in the pockets. I feel like that might give me pause at times (my philosophy is to wear things fairly hard, especially if they're expensive), but unsure what experience and perspective others might have with this material.

    Anyway, overall I've never owned an insulator that I've really enjoyed wearing independently, and have struggled a bit to find one that blends in with other pieces when layered. This definitely feels like it will fill that gap, but let's see.

  5. 5 hours ago, emenel said:

    i wear my 58 1.0 in the late fall to early spring here in Toronto, but not up to 20c. it’s definitely a warm jacket. but about 15c i’m into a sweatshirt and shell or -s jacket. 

    Hah, fancy seeing you here. I'm thinking Toronto in the not-too-distant future, so good context. Thank you!

  6. 7 hours ago, RapGameTaylorSwift said:

    Warmth and feel of the jacket feel nearly identical to 1.0. A quick walk around the block in around 25° F NYC weather and I was quite warm with a long sleeve underneath. 

    Aesthetically, the biggest difference I noticed was the height of the collar (1.2 on the left). The snaps on the wrists have also been reversed so there are two sockets and one stud, instead of vice versa.

    I still feel like this jacket is better worn on its own. Underneath a shell, it always felt quite tight with anything more than a tee.

     

    Oof, I'm curious to see how this will turn out. I'm getting a Medium (my normal size is Medium and I wanted something more close fitting), but it we will see. I can always size up.

    One piece I was curious to get folk's experience with: If 25F is the baseline for this, how well does this work as a late spring/early fall type of insulator as well? Eg. I have an Arcteryx Cerium LT, and that thing is weirdly applicable from 0C to around 20C. Is there a similar flexibility, or is it very much a winter-only jacket?

  7. Question: is there a market for DIY or modified Stone Island badges? I've read somewhere that British kids have gotten arrested trying to steal the real things before. Genuinely curious given the customization you see with, for example, 3x2" velcro patches and similar.

  8. 15 hours ago, nodre said:

    i'm shopping for moto gear, and i'm finding it increasingly ironic how much inspiration some ACR stuff gets from that realm but the functionality of the pants and jackets is largely limited to urban commuter. would be nice to see functionality taken to the next level; not just made for walking. i might wear some armor under my bulkier pants like p24, but for the most part these pieces are aching for cordura, leather, and accommodating armor inserts. also would fill a nice gap in the market because unless you're sacrificing protection, proper "cool" riding gear doesn't exist. all very heavily branded and function obvious. 

    Yeah, the inspiration is pretty clear there. What’s interesting is a lot of the moto gear gets either nostalgic or branded, whereas Acr feels like it takes that nostalgia and function, and then looks forward instead of backwards.

  9. 4 hours ago, HumphreytheWarrior said:

    Do you know what the round velcro patch on the left sleeve and the square velcro patch on the front pocket are for? Are they just for sticking a velcro accessory on?

    The square one is an affordance for the chest snap. The shoulder one I think is just decorative.

  10.  

    Thoughts on the J59-GT

    Haven’t seen anything about this jacket, so wanted to share my experience with it (since there are a few left, I think). I posted this on reddit as well, so more of a “I hope this helps those on the fence“ kinda post. I’ve really enjoyed this jacket.

     

    1month ago

    Just got it today in medium. I’m 182cm/78kg, athletic. It’s a big and boxy fit, but by manipulating the zipper and the pull cord, you actually have a lot of control over the silhouette, which is the main thing I want to hit on. All the specs and similar are online and the product imagery is pretty spot on to reality.

    It’s modeled after the MA-1, which is what originally drew me to it. I’ve wanted an MA-1 forever, and have a few other jackets in that family like the Buzz Rickson Gibson B15, and a Rickson A2. But I’ve resisted getting an MA-1. I hadn’t found an option that felt quite right and there a something about the details on that kinda flight jacket that feel foreign to me. I get the same sense when I wear the B15, with its vestigial arm pocket and detailing that’s plenty useful as a pilot, a bit less so as a pedestrian.

    Anyway, seeing the J59-GT, I felt like I was seeing the thing I didn’t quite know I was looking for. A weather shield that looked like an MA-1 if you squint, but also feels like something distinct.

    When it arrived, I was initially a bit unhappy. The frame felt somehow bigger than I expected, especially as someone who usually wears more fitted clothes. But after walking around a bit and seeing how the jacket settled and moved, I think what I had interpreted as bagginess was actually the structure of the fabric and the internal volume mimicking the shapes and contours of a nylon and wool constructed MA-1. With the lines of the pockets and the manipulation made possible with the draw cord, it took on the shape of the MA-1 and (insofar as that shape is structure) actually creates a very structured overall look.

    This jacket presents an interesting opportunity to explore alternatives to (what I had understood as) the streamlined tech wear silhouette. Especially as someone who has been drawn to military surplus and workwear, there is something to the material efficiency of a lot of tech wear (and the way it almost diminishes the wearer) that I’ve never loved. Conversely, military and workwear have a lot of form-follows-function staples that present that function efficiently from an economic perspective, but not a material one. Just have the wearer do more squats if they complain. Anyway, my frustration is that often with tech wear I feel like the individual disappears behind the clothes, maybe as a protest to the commodification of identity and information in our current age. This jacket doesn’t do that, and it feels a bit less like it’s wearing you. It also feels a bit less “tech wear” perhaps, though I think my definition there is a bit limited.

    Anyway, my intent with this jacket is to wear it heavily, casually, and across a bunch of needs. So will report back on how it survives. Big points of concern are the zipper and the Goretex stretching ribbing. It seems pretty solid, but especially around the hands I imagine that level of contact with that kind of material will lead to sweat and potentially material degradation. But hopefully this’ll be a key piece for years. Hope this helps, 

    https://acrnm.com/products/J59-GT_SS19

    Also a thought:
    https://www.heddels.com/2015/03/william-gibson-interview-buzz-rickson-line-tech-wear-limits-authenticity/

     

    —-

    Today
    One month in, I love this thing.

    Some big things:
    - Silhouette is very flexible thanks to the draw string and dual zipper. I’ve found the sweet spot for me, but have actually manipulated it from time to time depending on what I’m looking for that day. Definitely a more casual look.
    - The pockets are huge and useful, but zip them closed. Somewhere in Copenhagen, there is an outlier beanie that slipped out. I wish there was a bit of a well under the zipped area to catch such things.
    - The hood is awesome. I’ve also swapped it on and off again depending on what I’m looking for.
    - The chest snap is key. It basically lets the j59 semi-structured silhouette work without being zipped shut.
    - The 2L at the cuffs seems to work fine and has been nice in the incredibly windy Denmark. Still slightly worried about a sweat and oil collection there but haven’t noticed anything yet.
    - I’m a backpack person primarily, and sadly it looks kind of sloppy with a backpack. I usually wear a messenger bag with it now.
    - I have an 8mo old who I often cart around in an ergobaby chest harness, and this thing somehow makes that look okay layered over the harness and open at the front. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

    Anyway, all told a big purchase that I was nervous about, but I’ve been super happy. I think I will get a more structured acronym jacket as well, but down the road and likely not in GT. 

    Let me know if you have any questions, as there still seem to be one or two on the site.

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