Pedro

On 6/11/2022 at 11:39 AM, ColonelAngus said:

made for fat people 

I far prefer to be called “Big Boned” or “Gordo”...Thankyou.

“Fat” is an expression used by judgmental Americans...sorry, is that redundant?

“Gordo” is often an expression of endearment and at the worst, simply an adjective.

On 3/21/2022 at 1:30 AM, unders said:

If the invitation says no jeans, I don’t think you should wear jeans.

Well Said.

On 6/11/2022 at 1:27 PM, shredwin_206 said:

Back in the day men used to take pride in their clothing even for working in the factory or job site. 
I get complimented by many old timers who say it’s nice to see someone in the trades who gives a damn about being presentable while doing the work we do and taking pride in their trade. 
sorry I’ve ranted again. I’ll be done now. 

Rant On.

@goodrain

Much Thanks!

9 hours ago, JMS said:

They were insisting to him that they need not be too concerned with construction and fabric to improve profitability, as the consumer would pay for their goods regardless.

Modern Times.

On 4/3/2022 at 12:21 PM, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

moreso historical and industry knowledge.

That entire response is really thoughtful.

I have gotten reprimanded on this forum when I have brought up historical content of denim jackets so I am glad to hear your interest in such, but then I could say, “Ice Cream tastes good” and the gatekeepers are going to disagree with me...Lol

As for arcuates, or logos, not being important, I wonder how Nike sales would be affected if they removed the swoosh from their products? I am pretty certain such things do matter to most. Personally, I like many designs such as Lee and MF and I like the “wings” on the Samurai and various others but then I like hand embroidery on shirts and even though I don’t have any Wranglers at the moment, out West and in the SW, they are as much a symbol as the rainbow is for others.

Although, Wild Ass brand does not have a pocket design, I really like Henry the kicking mule patch (besides they are a tight weave heavy denim that are long wearing).

Yes, as you said, a lateral move from the LVC. 

It appears to me that the vast majority of JP & US premium denim brands have some type of stitching on the back pockets. (Link at bottom.)

Back pocket stitching is like the secret handshake or the Ichthus Christian Symbol—exclusivity of membership. Since one of the biggest themes of denim forums is to impress & identify as a unique community; typically spending big bank on denim in the hopes that a fellow collector will identify the brand, ergo, the wearer as a brethren fashionista.

Does anyone here actually prefer the “minimalist” generic bland white bread look of the 1937 rear pocket over the broken arches of SC yesteryear? Or the other minimalist stitch designs of other brands? More power to you, but not my taste.

https://www.heddels.com/2014/06/the-complete-arcuate-collection/

13 hours ago, JMS said:

Sizing on the 37s confuses me. Like all MiUSA sugarcanes. I guess it's size up one as usual? 

It appears that way based on the W38 only having a 90-cm waist measurement on the chart.

Why can’t SC design some type of arcuate on the back pockets of these Levis replicas? I understand the lawsuit but other JP brands have created some sweet stitching. 

Blank back pockets were characteristic of J.C.Penney type denim pants...cheap.

I can say it is very difficult to remove the pocket stitching while leaving the rivets in tact, sewing in an arcuate and then restitching the back pocket.

SC41947US

¥32,780 ≈ US $268.00 (on this date)

Excluding any Shipping or Import Duties

1 hour ago, Duke Mantee said:

I did come up in the ‘trades’ … I’ve written books in the stuff

Ahh, thats great. I would love to read them. Any articles in Fine Homebuilding?

I had just finished a Sunday breakfast meeting when I typed my last message. Three engineers and myself.

The conversations were drier than the toast, but always thorough.

Waiting for the release of the new 1937’s. I wonder how closely they will resemble the Lot 303 or 304 or the 40701 in measurements and number of buttons on the fly. Any insights on the denim weight?

On 3/22/2022 at 11:40 AM, Duke Mantee said:

Never in my 30 odd years in the industry have I ever met an architect who knew much about engineering 

Nor an engineer that was a good builder but You are looking at it all backwards.

He is an expert craftsman first who is a PE second and architect third.

He wore a toolbelt first and it set the foundations. You would need to have come up in the trades to appreciate the significance. 

Edit:

Ofcourse, we are failing in giving Frank Lloyd Wright the proper recognition.

On 1/31/2022 at 10:51 AM, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

Took a quick trip to the sewing machine for some preventative maintenance and figured id snap a few while i was at it. 

Is there a sub-forum on denim repair by hand or with a sewing machine? 

Thanks

Follow-Up:

I did finally manage to pull the Lot 54 BB into position and get them buttoned.

Whats your opinion on fashion trends for 2022? Do you think the muffin top look (with belly fat spilled over the beltline) might make a comeback?

If it does, then I am claiming credit for the trend.

Thanks to all of you for your helpful insight.

I did check the Sizing Chart and this is why I must have thought the 54BB would fit me.

The BB has the identical dimensions to the Lot 44 and I can wear the Lot 44.

I sure do like the rear pocket stitching (arcuate) of the MF’s and really admire Christophe and his annual themes of Americana. 

Hmmm...I can’t remember if I checked measurements or not, although I typically do. I am surprised the website calls the Lot 54BB as having a “roomy leg and generous waist”.

I just can’t believe these dimensions would fit anybody other than maybe someone who plays college ball. 

To make matters worse, I went through my inventory and found I actually bought two identical pair still raw. 

Thankyou for your response.

I bought a pair of Californian Lot 54BB awhile ago from MF in 36W since thats my SC waist size.

What the heck?

Not even washed yet and can’t pull my legs through them. Were these modeled for the assless man? The fit is absurd. They are truly a strong 35” inseam and far too tight in the glutes and thighs. These things are tighter than Brooke Shield’s Calvin Kleins.

I tried googling for am image of an “assless man” and I warn you now that 99% of the images are of assless pants and fully assed men.

This is the only family friendly image I could find.

19 hours ago, JMS said:

Denim on the new 37 jacket looks very nice. Will post some photos when it arrives. 

Every day I watch for the release of the 1937 pants.

Looking forward to your photos!

On 3/9/2022 at 4:21 AM, Double 0 Soul said:

What's the opposite of 'pop' ?

As any Mexican Abuela would tell you as they scurried you out of their kitchen, a pre-soak in dish soap will lift those kitchen grease stains right out.

I can’t seem to attach a smile emoji.

On 3/9/2022 at 5:29 AM, Thanks_M8 said:

^^my t shirts after cooking cause I forgot the apron again 

I had a roommate in college. A brilliant (in both theory and application) of architecture, engineering & construction. A gifted artist who used to detest the term. The anti-artist. I used to always joke him that he would spend over an hour each morning, actually he used to sleep past noon so each afternoon, meticulously preparing his appearance to achieve his “style” of random, unkept, haphazard and indifference.

He was meticulously “unkept”.

A Mexican would not even have a shop rag this dirty. (insert cringing emoji)

Different Cultures.

Travel away from the Tourist centers in Mexico and Central/South America in the early mornings and you will find all the kids waiting for the school bus in front of their small homes (some that still have dirt floors and no indoor plumbing). Every one of those children is quite well-groomed in their are . Their hair is clean cut and combed. Their clothing washed & clean. Ofcourse, they go to Catholic Schools and are wearing their uniforms but the mothers spend hours keeping their white shirts & blouses brilliantly white and pressed. There is quiet pride in such things.

People who have little material wealth and low stations in life would wear an apron.

On 3/8/2022 at 2:56 PM, Thanks_M8 said:

@Pedro you put a lot of thought into this

to me it just came naturally through trial and error over time. wash when dirty, wear until dirty, repeat...

 

The owner of the company has been experimenting with this technology for 20+ years. Its his fruits of labor. Its quite fascinating to see and learn from people like him very much like (edit: several on this forum who have passion for denim). There are a few competitors at the commercial scale for this liquid CO2 technology and, ofcourse, China has recently jumped in for its commercial potential and environmental benefit of tremendous water conservation (and the associated downstream costs of water treatment facilities).

It was found to be quite effective with synthetics and down but not so much with cotton & natural fibers. I see @00 alludes to my “overthinking” it. This coming from a man who spent countless hours to meticulously write the book on the history of Sugar Cane denim, a brand from Japan where everything is “overthought” to the greatest detail. How many different colored threads are found in Sugar Cane denim pants? Twenty? So maybe there is a little irony in @00’s apparent casual indifference & disdain for “overthinking”.

When a guy works as a mechanic then he gets to use the equipment after hours on his own vehicles. Thats how I would describe my use of the equipment on my denim. Experimentation. Fun. Applying principles of chemistry to launder effectively & efficiently and prolong a garments useful life. More than anything, the same trial & error you describe. 

But, hey, I am Hispanic. We are the blood that keeps the USA alive, we do all the manual labor in the dirtiest environments and yet we have the cleanest clothes. Go to a Mexican neighborhood and what do you smell? The artificial scents of laundry detergent wafting through the air. 

Clean clothes are serious business in my Culture! 

Jaja. ;-)

As a matter of fact, I have tweaked a liquid CO2 process that was developed for synthetics and down fibers to now be useful on cottons. It refreshes the DWR on surfaces and revitalizes down loft, i.e. Outdoor gear including tents & sleeping bags).

Its a waterless process that recovers over 99.9% of the CO2. As previously mentioned, its designed commercially for camping gear but I modify it for cotton fabric & denim after hours.

Its excellent at removing lipids (oils & fats) and as a surfactant for soils. Once finished, the garment material has none of the intentional residuals found in detergents and fabric softeners which weigh down the fabric and prematurely break down fibers including cotton.

We already coordinate with a few high end outfitters that have started buying back and reselling their used “second hand” gear and we hope to find interest with museums and historical societies but many early garments have wool content and are damaged by the removal of the oils (in this case lanolin).

Sometimes, for home laundering, I opt to for a brief soak and agitation in an oxide bleach/water solution finished by a product called, sportsWah, by Atsko.

If I am washing white shirts and t-shirts, then I begin the above with a pre-soak in dish detergent to get rid of any ring-around-the-color and my final rinse includes a bluing agent to make the white “pop”.

Its pretty fascinating how the above processes can even bring back the beautiful texture of denim that has been abused by denimheads that are much too cool to connect proper garment care with extended longevity & beauty.

I really started diving into this subject in the last few years and found a couple forums that are less interested in fashion trends and more interested in all textiles and in cutting down on global water consumption and pollution from overuse of phosphates in most detergents on a large scale (think hotel sheets, etc).

I bet you are sorry you asked...

@Thanks_M8

I have received much blow-back here for my interest in laundering practices but I firmly believe it deserves thoughtfulness and is about respect for the denim. Anyhow, I was intrigued by your reference to “hayashi-san style” and its very nice to see through trial & error that I stumbled onto the same routine.

“How does [hayashi-san style] work? Wearers rotate through two pairs of jeans that they promise to wear almost daily for a year. Every week, the jeans are laundered at a special denim processing facility to retain evidence of each participant's life and work.”

https://www.meridian.net/2016/9/28/13093838/japan-tour-onomichi-denim-project

On 1/7/2022 at 3:33 AM, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Sugar Cane is going to bring out a 1937 pair. So if someonw wants a cinchback pair...

 

Any recent details on the release date?

Thanks Amigo.

14 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Sugar Cane is going to bring out a 1937 pair. So if someonw wants a cinchback pair...

That's great news.

Do you know the denim weight?

Thankyou for posting this.