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@maharu

Thanks for your input sir.

Cause my brand is heavily influenced by Japanese Denim, then i usually check out the most modern Japanese Denim such as Momotaro, JB and Tanuki which i think did a very great work to be able to enter EU and US market by providing a cut that represent them.

That is why i rarely saw an American / EU brand's sizing, another reason is, i got confused with their size charts. Let's take a look at the Buck Jeans you mention, the front rise measurement is the same at 31,32 and 33 (based on Standard and Strange sizing at their website), then only increased by 0,25" at size 35 and 36.

Maybe i am still not at the level to understand their size grading for each size, because for the past 8 years, what i always did and learn is that the front rise should have around 0,25" diffrences at each size... Same goes with leg opening that only have 0,25" differences between size 32 and size 36..

I am really willing to learn from you guys that i am sure is way more experienced at how a good relax tapered fit should.

~~~~~~~

For the leg opening , i always thought this model is coming because of the streetwear and sneakers trend , so people is not wearing much slim straight anymore cause they want to show their 500$ Limited edition sneakers. So i draw my relax tapered measurement 7" at size 32 (36" inseam), and 8" at size 36 (36" inseam). I guess it will around 0,25" wider at 30" inseam.

7 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

As a Westerner with a bigger build I would say a 15.25" back rise on a 32" waist is not very high.

I'm a 34-35" waist and I like my back rise between 15-16" for a medium rise.
If you want to give the customer more room, so a relaxed/high taper, a back rise of 16" for a size 32 is probably more the way to go.

If you need Western guys to try your jeans, I'm quite sure there will be volunteers around the forums. Either here or better reddit's raw denim sub.

Hi sir , wow thanks for the input.

I dont think i want to go as high as LeftField Charles Atlas or Ironheart 888 , because i think it might be too high for reguler westerner.

For the room at the top block , actually i am trying something with the pattern shape, and hips/seat measurement...

If 15.25" at size 32 means the backrise measurement will be around 16inch at size 35 (my jeans have a true to label waist measurement)

Yeah , actually im thinking when the prototype is done, i want to ask someone from this forum to help me try it. Actually i need someone with size 32/33 waist and the 28/29 one.

Just to check the measurement from small, medium and large size is properly graded..

Reddit is a little bit hard for me to understand, even some peoples said that Reddit might be the better forum to share thought and to gain awareness, but i think i'll choose SUFU for the higher level of credibility and experiences...

Hi Guys , im the owner of indonesian denim brand WARPWEFT COMPANY, as i already ask last year about the Relax Tapered / High Tapered fit jeans.

I already did some trial for this new cuts. It is quite confusing to do the size grading to a smaller size as the size chart around the web is quite different from each other.

I'm using Tanuki High Tapered and Japan Blue Dog Days as a references...

What i want to ask is, Ironheart 888 have a very high front rise measurement if compared to my references above. Ironheart 888 have 11.5" front rise at size 32 when compared to 10.5" front rise at Tanuki and JapanBlue Dogdays. So, while i cannot find a model to confirm this matter (a 185-195cm model with a bigger western build). As for the backrise, i can find someone with a fuller butt cheek to test it out , so i already decide a 15.25inch back rise for a 32inch waist size.

Can you guys give me a good input regarding this front rise measurement annd give me your thought and experience?

Because i found out that several western denimhead want to buy my jeans but find it that the measurement did not accomodate their body.

Hi , im the owner of Indonesian Denim brand WARPWEFT COMPANY...

Im quite interested and curious about the new hyped Relax Tapered - Carrot cut jeans. Is it only apply to the westerner with a bigger top block and thigh build? because in Indonesia it is kinda hard to find a person who can fit well in a 12.5" thigh and 11.5" Front rise measurement jeans (im using size 32 as a reference).

Have been trying to make some prototype for this cut , Because im trying to contact some US or EU denim store in the near future and i think this cuts is kind of very popular right now. So i decided to learn about this. But hard to find a good reference for this cut as like i said above , it is hard to find a western build men here to give it a try.

Is it possible if you guys give me an input on what is the main benefits of this new relax tapered cut? Is it to allow a bigger build westerner to have a comfortable topblock while able to rock a sneakers game?

Thanks

H

On 1/29/2018 at 8:19 PM, Goosyphus said:

I emailed Okayama Denim, and they confirmed indigo, not black.  I laughed at the exact same description on 2nd.  I've read that cell bitch means selvedge, but yeah it just sounds ridiculous.

Yeahh , because japanese pronounce selvedge as "seru-bit-chi" , maybe google translate just plainly change to the closest english word

On 2/1/2018 at 9:28 PM, Akruk33 said:

Hey Everyone,

I'm taking a trip to Japan in April, Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka. Is there a particular samurai store that's best to visit? I was thinking of going to the kyoto store since it's close to my hotel but wasn't sure if there was a better one to check out along the way. Any recommendations would be appreciated! Also hoping the 20th anniversary S526XX are available by that time too to try them in person

AFAIK , Samurai Flagship store only at OSAKA. Its in nakatsu area if im not remember it wrong.

The store is quite dark for me to feel or see the texture of each denim , but still a nice shop though

On 2/4/2018 at 2:22 AM, BrownMetallic said:

Sam Jin: Nowadays, these only get worn in winter til early fall. So, thought I’d post some evos before they get put away.

How is the rise fit? isnt it too tight at the crotch area?

On 1/30/2018 at 5:54 PM, mlwdp said:

 Just curious, how are some of y'all storing/hanging your denim?  

i use a wide wood hanger and put it outside in the balcony to prevent any odors from a few months unwashed jeans...

On 2/2/2018 at 11:44 AM, Sensuki said:

After a few years of wearing only selvedge denim jeans, I recently bought a pair of Chad Prom jeans made from a mid-blue washed turkish projectile loom denim, and the jeans had a further garment wash.

A pleb I may be, but these beat the shit out of all of my other jeans for comfort and fit. Will post a fit pic soon - these have that illusive sufu drainpipe fit!

its just my 2 cents , but isnt it relatively bit easier to achieve the desired fit on non-selvedge denim than selvedge denim?  Especially if there is any tapering involved.

As yall might already know , the selvedge pattern need the outseam to be completely straight from bottom hem to at least the meeting of pocket bag and hips area for the sake of the selvedge line. I think this rule is kind of hinder the pattern making process.

CMIIW

Sorry to jump into this discussion , i just join few days ago

I think japan blue and Unbranded 201 cuts will suit your style , its clean with no arcuate , quite modern cut.

If you decide to stretch your budget, check out UES 400T or Resolute Slim Tapered denim.