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Posts posted by dilemmaworker

  1. im on my second pair of Overcomer 051ss. They've changed denim but there's no big difference. Mainly the new one has some slight, slight slubbiness or unevenness in the weave, and the first denim had a bit of an 'open-ended' look to it. went down one in waist and length, so they're just perfect now. i think of these as my new standard jeans, replacing APC for now.

  2. On 2/21/2019 at 9:42 AM, snchz said:

    Today wearing the mirror panel pullover, green lambswool version.




    Is this still available? Can I get it shipped to China?

    edit: no worries, found it on tender stores. is there any sizing chart available? absolutely nutter, this pullover.

  3. On 7/11/2017 at 5:49 AM, rodeo bill said:

    ^this is such a great shot, I always really like your photos- thank you!

    While various Tender stuff percolates, here are a few more details about THEN, which has been mentioned briefly a couple of times. It's a very small project, but which I feel really good about- it's been quite a bit of work but is very personal. I came across a fantastic archive of mid-20th Century fabric designs, which were lovely in their own right, but also really strongly reminded me of my grandparents and great-aunt, who were designers working from the 1940s to the 80s. The idea was to take these fabrics (reworked a bit), and cut them into the kind of clothes which people like my grandparents wore. While the work they did was pretty avant garde, the clothes they wore themselves were very simple and tasteful, almost conservative.

    Fabrics got woven up in the UK, and the garments are made to a very precise, tailored, level, in Japan. Bone china swingtags are an homage to Barbara Hepworth, and are made in England. Here are a few photos:


    As I said, this is a personal side project, so it may not be every season, but it should keep popping up one way or another. The first production is now available at PRESENT, as well as Maidens in Tokyo and Loftman in Kyoto. The name, THEN, is partly about the idea of time (a previous era, but also a link to the future, the next step), and also a reference to a great book of photographs by Alexander Liberman, who was a friend of my grandfathers (I believe).

    Apologies that this may not be for everyone, back to regular scheduled programming soon :)

    wanna cop em all. btw, I have the Liberman biography and my publishing imprint is fairly inspired by VU.

  4. On 7/10/2017 at 7:56 PM, Megatron1505 said:

    And yes we use some Chinese, Korean and Thai seamstresses.   This is simply because we can’t find enough Japanese who want to do the job any longer - it’s a crisis the whole Japanese industry faces.  But we pay all our workers the same whatever their race creed or colour.

    anybody that has a problem with their jeans being sewn by a person from Thailand rather than Japan need to take a step back and examine their way of thinking. 

  5. Canton is supposedly the first Japanese denim brand, established in 1963 and at some point went bankrupt. Japanese retailer 1LDK is now bringing back the brand -- below copied from their blog:



    “The POP-UP of  Japanese Denim Brand CANTON®OVERALLS revival of the legendary XX Denim. “

    CANTONⓇ produced the very 1st Japan made Jeans in 1963

    CANTONⓇ is a pioneer Jeans brand based in Japan – making Jeans with imported genuine U.S. made material and using the UNION SPECIAL sewing machine.They are authentic in every single detail with their TALON zips and SCOVILL rivets.

    In 2008, around half a century, CANTONⓇ changed their brand name to CANTON OVERALLSⓇ to make a fresh start.Clothing needs to be seen as a daily tool based on work wear. Pursuing practicality leads to user-friendly ideas, removing unnecessary details and thus creating unique designs and specs.This will definitely become a good tool to be passed on to the next generation.This is the sprit of the former CANTONⓇ, and we make our clothing based on this philosophy.

    About XX Denim
    XX Denim (Double-X Denim) stands for denim produced by two US textile companies, Amoskeag and Cone Mills, from the late 1800s till 1960s. The stream of technical innovations in the 20th century left a tremendous impact on the textile industry, bringing forward various generations of XX denims with different appearances and textures. The existing, unwashed fabrics called “Dead” have also developed different looks depending on storage environments across the ages.



    We 1LDK PARIS are luckily having an opportunity to bring the legendary first Japanese denim brand to our store. It is not just only the ages they have had but during half of the century they have spent, they were experiencing the invention and evolution  in their work.






  6. I got into denim in 2004 or 2005 and was bored by 2010 after living in Tokyo, where it became so normal, and after seeing the whole lumberjack trend blowing up in EU and NA. Just now starting to get a little more excited again, and also think that forums and blogs will be coming back after social networks have pretty much taken over. I do still love Instagram, though.

  7. I just realized that a couple of people I follow on Instagram regularly post things that I'd never otherwise have the opportunity to see, even if I was living in Tokyo and venturing out to vintage shops every single day. This guy below is a collector and posts a lot of great garments from his collection.




    So I just thought we could use a thread to share the best post and accounts to follow. Let's see what you've got!

  8. The 1975 fit is pretty similar to a 1966 to me. Mid-rise, tapered, but not slim legs. 

    Waist circumference | Thigh width | Inseam | Front rise | Leg opening

    I find the onewash measurements to be accurate. However, you can now get them in longer inseams, so the very short inseam in this chart are not necessarily true if you choose a different length.


  • Alan Crocetti Silver Nose Plaster
    $US 342