Iron Horse

The 661ZXX, AFAIK; before that it was the 1951 601XX.

Of the top of my head, it goes, from straightest to slimmest:

1947 -> 1943 -> 1951 -> 661ZXX

@bartlebyyphonics I believe it could be done quite easily, the design is in my head and I could draw it down in an jiffy, but the minimum order quantity would be 100 shirts and realistically I would need to take pre-orders and pay for (admittedly somewhat costly) samples. A certain amount could be set aside for Sufu but at that quantity I’d keep the rest and sell them as well.

Or, alternatively, I have a new Heracles shirt on its way to me in April in 3 colors and that could serve as the contest shirt and give everyone a choice of colors (indigo, red, and ecru) so as Cheech Marin puts it in Up in Smoke, everybody can “wear something that’s different but also the same.”

Link to the latter is here: https://the-rite-stuff.com/

16 hours ago, Cold Summer said:

Here's a blog post I wrote about my favorite Flat Head shirt.

Good post; regarding the selvedge gussets, that’s a period-correct retail, though not all brands used it in the past.

Here’s a selvedge gusset on a 1930s chambray work shirt I have:

I would but I’d need a matching printed leather jacket to go with them.

@Collin @dudewuttheheck Thanks guys

4 hours ago, JDelage said:

Like that? https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/t683927876 It mostly looks longer than the modern iterations.

Keep us posted. I like them myself; I have 2...

Yes that one is very well done, just seems like they’re made in China.

Not many brands really pulling it off. There’s a new one from Birdwell Beach Britches that’s not bad but I don’t like the color or stripes (prefer plain black or a dark burgundy):

17 hours ago, JDelage said:

Another option: https://oconnellsclothing.com/oconnells-8-ply-merino-donegal-shawl-collar-cardigan-sheridan-ch03674.html

Thanks for the refs guys, but looking more something more period-correct.  I’ll keep an eye out for vintage or maybe a used Phigvel.

1930s CCC Daisy Mae hat:

6 hours ago, JDelage said:

https://northseaclothing.com/collections/wool-knitwear/products/the-expedition-cardigan-mid-grey

Also in black and navy. I have it. It's a nice piece of kit. I know find that I like patch pockets better than slit pocket on something like this. 

Not bad but too thin.  I might just keep my eyes peeled for vintage.  Thanks for the refs though guys!

@Spiraltoy Thanks for that, the Drake’s version isn’t bad, the shaker-style knit is suitably chunky. The Dehen one is nice but not thick enough. 

I think both are missing the loop-button on the collar and in most the shawl collar is too thin. Sleeves cuffs should also be a bit long for cuffing back.

Seems like few/no makers get all the details right in shawl collar shaker knit sweaters; Phigvel has made some nice ones but sometimes with striped rubbing and done in China.

Here are some ‘20s and ‘30s vintage examples: 

I could probably have them made in Japan but likely pricey.

Cardigan goals:

1 hour ago, Double 0 Soul said:

For fucks sake Iron Horse, stop acting like a petulant teenager, i would suggest that the only person getting 'bent out of shape' here is you.

I think we’re both quite good at bending each other out of shape. 

4 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

I will note here that 'i did note' that "it could be lost in translation"

I just skimmed your post, don’t get bent out of shape about it. 

It’s actually oddly alien and cool looking as a fabric goes, like a kilim rug, but too strange for a selvedge line. It actually looks like something Kapital would make.

14 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

Thanks IH, 

I read "they use original Smith's Overalls parts" it's me who's putting 2+2 together and possibly coming up with 5 because i can't think of any other Smith's Overalls other than Big Smith Overalls... it could be just lost in translation.

I would note here that “original” when used by most Japanese brands means new/repro, not vintage originals. 

AFAIK, Big Smith never went by just “Smith’s”, even in the ‘30s. Earliest buttons from them that I know if are like so:

Is that for new people to sign up?

34 inseam is short? Serious question, just curious. 

2 hours ago, mlwdp said:

You’re kind of forced into buying one wash from some brands as that’s the only style they produce.  

AFAIK one-wash is preferred by Japanese customers so most brands these days only make one-wash.

One-wash unsanforized is my preferred. Sometimes a nice fabric is only offered sanforized though. 

One-wash for sure; I just want to buy my size and move on with life.

I have it in 40 and I'm 72 kg and it's slim, at 83 kg you'll need more than a 40.

ELMC (Lofgren) has a few variants:

https://www.elmc.co/zip-neck-sweat-ucla-blue-p-173.html

I don’t have experience with them, but I like the look of Dehen’s:

https://dehen1920.com/collections/sweaters/products/motorcycle-sweater-black-white-stripe

$300 for one is a bit much perhaps, but I don’t know how much it costs them to produce one in USA.