JohnM

Those 36 Denimes are way too big for you -- please sell  😉

^ Those look comfortable Broark.  How do they run sizewise?  Any arch support?

^ b-F, looks like the 1943 has the same waist as the 1946, but a higher rise (especially in front) and more room just about everywhere else, except the waist.

The 714 is a great pair of jeans that should fit a variety of body types.  It has more room in the top block and thighs than other Resolute cuts. The denim is also very nice (color and feel) and it’s nice that you can order the inseam/length of your choice.
 

I do agree that it’s a pair of jeans that can be dressed up or down more than others. Not exactly sure why — some combination of the cut, denim, specified length, and no frills simplicity makes them feel less like ‘workwear’ and more like a versatile pair of pants that can go dressy or casual. 
 

bartlebyyphonics,

I do have a 300T Sharkhunter (which is nice, but larger), but also this SUB 300 Shark.  It was issued for Doxa's 50th Anniversary and is similar to your 300, except for the white minute hand and scale in feet instead of meters.

^ Love the Doxa.  Have the same one, except with a white minute hand.

As b_F said, I've owned jeans from many makers, but not many 66 models, other than the original from Levi's (when I was a kid) and a Cone pair from LVC.  The latter is quite true to my memory of the original -- pretty straight from the hips to the hem, medium rise, and a tendency for the jeans to drape down on the hips and fall from there.   Of all the Levi's pairs I've tried, the 66 is the least body conforming and most 'anti-fit'.  That's not to say I don't like it, but there's probably a reason (fit-wise) why the Levi's models from the 40s are so popular.

I'm not familiar with the Sugar Cane 66, but SC does a good job with repros, as does Warehouse, as b_F said.  Of the many choices, I'd probably start with those two.

On 1/17/2024 at 1:39 PM, NilsLW said:

@vIGGiou riou Yes but that makes me wonder how accurate the LVC version is? My view of the true 66 cut is that it's slim straight rather than straight tapered based on the few times I've actually looked at real vintage pairs in real life. I still think the SC66 is a great pair of jeans with nice denim and details but there is just something about the cut that I find slightly unbalanced and inauthentic...

I'm old and used to buy (well, my mom used to buy) new STF Levi's in 1966.  Was great fun to put them in a bucket and watch them go from stiff as a board to soft.

My recollection is that they were neither trim nor tapered -- pretty much straight all the way down with a tendency to sag at the hips (i.e., rise was medium not high and they didn't come in much at the waist).  Their fit reminds of a comment attributed to Roy Slaper that jeans are an ill-fitting garment.  I liked them but there was little in the way of conforming to the human body.  Not sure of hem width but definitely not trim.

^ In general, Ooe's are roomier in the hips than Resolute.  The top block of most Ooes are similar -- a nice rounded cut that is both flattering and comfortable for many body types (i.e., room in the hips and thighs while coming in at the waist).  The only Resolute that fits somewhat similarly to Ooe is the 714.

I want hand-made perfectly by a dedicated artisan who's also great to work with.  It's a short list but Duke Mantee and Ryo and Hiro are on it.

^ Truth is definitely in the middle.  Why I need to lose a few pounds and get from a 36 to 34.

My genes are 33 but my jeans are 36.  What went wrong?!

Great post Double 0.  I hear you regarding the comedy sketch and sufu costume, which is why I try not to wear everything all at once.  My old friends from high school wonder what the hell happened to me.  Out to dinner the other night wearing a G-1 leather jacket, I was asked where I landed my P51 Mustang.

My excuse for buying all this stuff is that I finally know my way around this world (thanks to all of you) and haven't gone shopping for the clothing I used to buy (shopping ain't what it used to be).  So when I needed a sport coat (that didn't sport wide 80s shoulders) and trim slacks to attend a memorial service recently, there was nothing in the closet other than a bunch of jeans, flannel shirts, boots, and N-1 jackets -- yes, I have two.

The McCoy's N-1 Navy SPL is a beauty.  The mouton collar isn't true to history but it sure is soft and comfortable around the neck. 

Though not a big Iron Heart guy, I recently picked up the Oiled N-1 in Olive, which is rugged and tough (like me ;-), has a small but useful interior pocket, and sleeves, which aren't lined in wool/alpaca, but exterior pockets that are.  All of this makes for a warm, but comfortable experience.

As Double 0 said, some of us run hot and others cold.  I'm the guy that wants the extra blanket my wife doesn't need.  So when I put on either N-1 (but never both at the same time), I'm immediately warm and comfortable.  It's basically a wearable blanket.  And who doesn't need that?  😉 

^ Double 0, even us old guys gotta laugh at your last three posts here.  Please, just don't come back with anything Roy-like -- I'm in a mentally sensitive state 😉

Just picked up an Oiled Whipcord N1 Deck Jacket (Olive) at Self Edge SF and love it. 

I expected to be a Large, given IH shirts in XL (most have said to size down on the N1). But XL fits well -- slightly big with a tee shirt but perfect with a long sleeve shirt or flannel.

Appreciate that IH chose not to line the sleeves with alpaca. The quilted satin lining is perfect -- less bulky and more comfortable.

Thanks Kiya.  Really good service from Nicholas and Paolo today -- helpful and knowledgeable.  Online shopping has taken over, but it was great to get into the store on a clear day in San Francisco and pork out on a carnitas burrito in the Mission District after visiting the store.

Denim only (not cut):

Ooe 1702XX (vertical fading)

Fullcount 13.7oz. and XX (softness and comfort)

Warehouse 14oz. Memphis (texture)

TCB 40s

CSF WWII (color)

Re the FC 1101 and 714, I have the (old) 1101 in 34 and the 714 in 36 -- love em both.  Back rise is lower on the 714, but not uncomfortably so.  Denim is comfortable and stretchy on both.  Fit is great on both.  I'm a high rise guy, but may prefer the 714 overall to the 1101, which is saying something since I like the 1101.

^ Compared to 01, 02 is a little slimmer and 03 is a little wider at the bottom.  Top block fit is pretty similar on all three cuts.

Here are some measurements for the 220 and 221 (size 36, warm water soaked, washed, and dried in the dryer for 30 minutes):

In order -- waist, front rise, back rise, thigh, knee, leg opening, inseam.

Lowered the prices on a few pairs.  Pics available on the previous page.  Shipping is extra (about $20 CONUS).

Resolute 710, size 36:  $45 (worn)

Orslow 105, size 3:  $25 (worn)

Orslow 105, size 3:  $55 (washed once)

DenimBridge contest jeans, size 35:  $55 (soaked)

DenimBridge contest jeans:  size 36 $35 (worn)

I've noticed that buttons have worn through the fly on a few pairs and wonder if it's better to leave jeans buttoned or unbuttoned before machine washing.

Sorry if this has been asked before.

Small threads, yes, will ask there instead.

I've noticed that buttons have worn through the fly on a few pairs and wonder if it's better to leave jeans buttoned or unbuttoned before machine washing.

Sorry if this has been asked before.  I did look -- probably not enough, admittedly.

^ I knew you were an old soul Maynard.  I'm just old.

DenimBridge contest jeans:

Size 35 (soaked) $55 + shipping:  SOLD

Size 36 $35 (worn) + shipping