mpukas

IMO, from personal experience from many cuts but not the 3005, it's better to have the waist a little too big and wear a belt to take up the slack than to have the waist fit just right and then the thighs are too tight.

I have 2 pairs of Samurai 25oz denim. S510XX 20th anniversary size 34, and S500XX 2nd 25th anniversary size 35. I love their 25oz denim, it's one of my favorites. Living in the CO, I can justify the heavy weight in winter conditions. The weave is even, not rough or irregular. I'll go so far as to say luxurious. When new, there's a lot of starch, and they're ungodly stiff. After a wash and some wear, they soften quite a bit and get more compliant. But they're always stiff when compared to a 14oz denim. Several years ago I bought a pair of S511 25oz 25th anniversary. The size was to small, and that cut was way too slim for me. Sold them. The S511 is a skinny cut in any denim they offer. Every denim will sew up with slightly different measurements, even though the pattern may be the same. IMO, for this heavy denim, you do not want to go on the slimmer side. Even consider sizing up one and wear a belt. You'll want to the thighs to fit, even if the waist is a little big.

I've been watching Rose Anvil for a couple of years. Weston Kay started out as a leather worker, making leather goods and accessories. Somehow he got into cutting footwear in half to see how they were made, and give his thoughts of the quality of materials, construction, marketing, and cost. At first, he didn't know much about footwear construction, but has educated himself considerably. From what I've seen, he's not affiliated or sponsored by any brand, including Thursday (he's done several reviews cutting them). He does do a lot of collaborations now, particularly with Nick's and recently White's. He gets footwear sent to him from many brands to cut in half and review, and he always discloses what has been sent to him and what he's bought. He's spent a considerable sum of his own funds, derived from the channel income, no doubt. Re: Alden Indy boots quality and cost - "cultural value" is a load of F'g BS. If someone finds their boots valuable enough to spend what they're currently asking, and enjoys them for what they are, then that's their choice. But when their materials are evaluated for cost and quality, and compared to other brands, they are vastly over priced. When I joined this forum 10 years ago and started learning more about footwear, the Indy's had just gone up in price considerably. Members hear were saying that not that long prior they were sub $300. At that time I recall they were $505. Now they're $655???!!! WTF???!!! F' that!!! Even with inflation, those boots still aren't worth the asking price, even if they are considered a refined "dress boot" and not a work boot. Grant Stone may be made in China, however they're made by some of the better shoe makers anywhere. The father of the brothers who founded Grant Stone used to work for Alden for decades, and was fundamental in their footwear designs (it's obvious as many details are almost exact copies of Alden's. Now, are they Alden's original details?). The quality of materials, details and craftsmanship of their Diesel boot is superior to the Indy, in my experience. Saying all that, what are other comparable brands, besides Grant Stone? Maybe Tricker's, or another UK maker? Thursday look like lower quality. There have to be others that I can't think of right now.

All this. TFH shirts are other level. As much of a TFH fan boy as I am, I will say their shirt patterns & sizing vary. Their sleeves are very tight on some. But I can suffer it. The one thing that really does bother me is the cut on the cuff isn't long enough, and I can't double-roll the cuffs back.

S&S email yesterday the new Lot SOA03XXD-0823 goes on sale Friday 12/08/2023 at 9:00 PST

Peter Limmer has been making hiking boots in New Hampshire since about 1950. I've been hearing about their boots for 30+ years, but never looked into getting a pair for myself. https://limmerboots.com/pages/our-story

I've listed a pair of Roy RT1002 size 33 in the community sales thread. I begrudgingly just sold my 2 pairs of BNWT Roy's last two runs on the auction site. They're far too small, and my taste in fit has change. How I wish I had purchased bigger sizes now. It had been three years since I even looked at them, and was really taken by how nice they are: denim, cut, details, construction, all of it. Just beautiful. But, I want to fund new TFH purchases.

I've listed a pair of IH 634SR size 33 in the community sale thread

Roy RT1002 Roy Tapered Cone Mills Black Seed Denim, Raw, unsanforized. Unhemmed. Worn about 3 months. Some fading at the knees, and whickpers and combs barely starting to set in. No rips, tears, stains, frays, etc. Difficult decision to list them for sale, but they're too small for me. Measurements Waist (straight across): 32.5" Front Rise: 11.125" Back Rise: 16.125" Thigh at crotch: 12.875" Thigh 2" down: 11.75" Knee 14" down: 8.5" Hem: 8" Inseam: 33.5" $350 shipped CONUS, int'l pays actual shipping cost

Oni 246 Natural Indigo Modern Straight, size 33, selvedge denim jeans. Worn about 3 months. Whiskers and combs are barely starting to set in. Some fading at the knees and hems. No nicks, cuts scratches, etc. I find this to be one of the best pairs of jeans Oni has ever made. The details are classic and simple, very well thought out. The denim is fabulous - loose weave with a great texture that's not too rough. They are a size too small for me. Would love to score another pair in a size bigger, but they are no longer made. Measurements Waist (straight across): 33.0" Front Rise: 11.75" Back Rise: 14.5" Thigh at crotch: 12.75" Thigh 2" down: 11.5" Knee 14" down: 8.75" Hem: 7.5" Inseam: 35.0" $150 shipped CONUS, int'l pays actual shipping cost

SOLD Oni 642-NIKHN 18 oz Kihannen Natural Indigo, size 34, high rise relaxed tapered fit. Natural Indigo. Extremely slubby. Very soft. Purchased raw. I've washed them to get the shrink out, but not worn them. The cut does not suit me. Measurements Waist (straight across): 32.0" Front Rise: 11.0" Back Rise: 15.25" Thigh at crotch: 13.0" Thigh 2" down: 11.75" Knee 14" down: 8.75" Hem: 7" Inseam: 34.0" $200 shipped CONUS, int'l pays actual shipping cost

The Strike Gold 7104 straight tapered jeans. Raw unsanforized selvedge denim. Unhemmed. Purchased from Self Edge (see their website for full description). Like new condition - no fades, frays, etc.They're too small for me. Measurements Waist (straight across): 31.5" Front Rise: 9.75" Back Rise: 13.5" Thigh at crotch: 12.5" Thigh 2" down: 11.25" Knee 14" down: 9.5" Hem: 7.75" Inseam: 36.25" $200 shipped CONUS, int'l pays actual shipping cost

SOLD Iron Heart 634SR UHR 21-230z Ultra Heavy Raw Denim jeans, size 33. New, unworn, unhemmed. These are the original 21-23oz UHR denim. I've washed them to get the shrink out. There are no signs of wear, fading, crocking, etc. I treated the patch with Obenauf's leather oil, which removed the ink on the patch. Selling because they're too small for me. Measurements Waist (straight across): 33.5" Front Rise: 11.25" Back Rise: 15.0" Thigh at crotch: 12.875" Thigh 2" down: 12.0" Knee 14" down: 9.375" Hem: 8.875" Inseam: 34.75" $350 shipped CONUS, int'l pays actual shipping cost

I haven't been following Russell Moccasin for years and wasn't aware of the take-over. They're kind of in their own class, as there aren't really any other boot makers that make true moccasin boots. They're good at what they do. Personally, I didn't find their finish quality as good as other boots I have. Re: sizing, I went back and forth many times trying to get sizing dialed in. They were very nice to work with and finally got the sizing right. In general I'd say they run fairly true to size. Get a trial pair if they still offer it. They are comfortable, as long as the fit is right. I'm not convinced that moccasin construction is best, when it comes to heavy outdoors use. The way the sole is attached to the upper leaves a big gap that debris can get trapped in. As opposed to stitch down where the upper is turned out and sewn to the midsole which makes for a tighter connection. But they have a decades long loyal following, so who am I to question it...? Hikers after a couple years of wear: Imperials with a wonky twist on the right boot.

XHS is still one of my favorite denims

Thank you, sir!

@Duke Mantee some time ago, you posted a chart which showed a comparison of Freewheelers jeans silhouettes. Do you still have it, and can you post it again? Thank you! mpp

If that's mold - IMO it is - you should use some type of antibacterial disinfectant to kill the mold first. Then use saddle soap to clean that stuff off. Anything done to clean the leather will most likely change the color of it.

I can't get into it now, but TFH THC tees are by far the best I've found, for my tastes, as far as fabric, fit, details, construction, and longevity. I recently tried a Merz 215 in XXL / 8 and was very disappointed.

@Cold Summer great to see you getting back to your roots, lol. Looking forward to seeing how the jeans evolve. I'm still a TFH die hard fanboy. I'm wearing my 3009's, THC black, and newer heavy western denim shirt as it's chili this morning. Everytime I wear something else, I just want to come back to TFH.

@MJF9 Thank you for starting this thread. The tee is gorgeous!

@crownzip great score!

Did he put up a post and take it down? The latest post on his IG is form March 06

I just felt a ripple in the fabric of the universe...

Let's use this thread to talk about the headwear we wear with our jeans. READY SET GO!!!