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oranswell

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Posts posted by oranswell

  1. For those interested, specifically those who make their own jeans or those with an interest in denim history I've found a supplier in the U.K. who has an Irish linen denim twill http://www.classhistory.co.uk/Herts%20Fabrics/store/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=denim&category_id=35&product_id=62

    They have two different Irish linen denims, one is a plain weave like a canvas and the other is a twill weave with the characteristic diagonal ribs for jeans-making.

    For those based in the UK its a rare chance to make wholly UK made jeans, as most Irish linen is made in Northern Ireland.

  2. Anyone here knows more about the certification process and cost? I think to find out why we're paying a premium for organic, one has to know the production costs behind it. The obvious rise in cost would obviously be from insects that harm the yield from a lack of pesticides. What else though?

    Organic crops by definition cannot use a GM product. I personally am opposed to GM for many reasons, i.e. its use in mono-culture and the abusive practices of companies that 'own' the seed farmers produce themselves, and the way it ties into the huge Agro-Food industries.

    The major effect in crop yields is that organic agriculture forbids the use of synthetic fertilisers, this reduces yield drastically, often by up to a third [see studies below]. 25% reduction being seen as the most regular figure.

    For me in order of preference the important things are when choosing clothes:

    1. Local production

    2. Local fabric

    3. Linen flax/hemp

    4. Non-GM

    5. Organic cotton/Natural dyes etc.

    Comparison of organic cropsvs conventional crops in general: http://www.nature.com/nature/journal/v485/n7397/full/nature11069.html

    Comparison of organic cotton vs conventional cotton: http://www.bugwood.org/arthropod2005/vol1/6c.pdf Only one I could find, oddly enough cotton yields are similar in that study.

  3. Yeah I think all of that is true about true flax plant linen. I wonder if it would be logical to make a cotton blend with linen for denim. It's usually in really light weight fabric so I wonder if flax plant fiber is more expensive. I would probably make a good summer weight denim mix.

    I know that flax linen can be more expensive fibre than cotton due to the extra processing it needs such as retting and scutching.

    But I think price wise it would be no more expensive than a Japanese cotton selvedge denim. I looked into getting cloth woven by a linen mill here in Ireland [where I'm from] and you can buy narrow-width [75cm] linen woven on shuttle looms for £6/metre with vat @ 20% incl. Less if you bought a lot from them.

    You could do a lot of interesting things like an undyed unbleached cotton warp and indigo linen weft or vice versa.

  4. Anyway my point is that PRPS, Momotaro, Kicking Mule and others probably do source better cotton, probably very high grade cotton in Zimbabwe, which on average probably has a marginally higher median grade of cotton as a whole. But still, I at least feel that the only reason why they boast about this is to try to justify their prices by saying that you are getting the very best possible, when really the very best possible when in reality this cotton is about 1% stronger or something like that.

    I've often wondered this and never been able to find out the difference in strength between regular staple cotton and ELS [Extra Long Staple] cotton such as Supima, Pima, Sea Island, and Giza 45. There's a huge amount of marketing and hype around these terms in denim and also noticeably in bedclothes, mens shirtings etc.

    As others have said here linen [i.e. flax] or hemp denim and clothing generally would be far better fro the environment and for ourselves. Linen I believe has anti-fungal & anti-bacterial qualities as well as being one of the few fibres to get stronger when wet, meaning it handles washing and wear a lot better.

  5. oranswell,

    Thanks and yes, i made the shirt. it's cotton chambray with mother of pearl buttons. i used the same chambray for the interlining as i didn't want a very stiff collar.

    With the soft collar do you have trouble with the points turning up? Where did you get the mother of pearl buttons? I had to buy a wholesale amount myself [500] in order to get nice Italian-made australiana ones. They're very hard come by sadly.

    Your sewing is beautiful by the way, any tips on how you practiced to get such even seams or sew around curves evenly?

  6. grav.itas,

    Did you make that shirt? The quality of the work is brilliant, beautiful even stitching throughout, is it a linen or cotton denim chambray? Did you use an interlining for the collar? Are they mother-of-pearl buttons by any chance?

  7. We gave an interview to an up and coming British blog which presents insight on Japanese lifestyle trends and topics. Check out the informative article here.

    Hello,

    Are you receiving my messages and emails at all? Still waiting to hear back from you. Is there a different phone number I can contact you on?

  8. I've always been too lazy for hand basting, so I've found a few tricks that help.

    First, I completely steam press the waistband (in half along its length then seam allowances under). Then I top stitch the top edge, but staying an inch short of either end so I can tuck them in once I'm done attaching things. This helps keep it from twisting. Then I unfold it and stitch it on from the inside about 1/8" from the seam allowance fold to the jeans (with the right side of the waistband facing the wrong side of the jeans... waistband is inside out and tucked inside the jeans). Once that's done I fold the waistband over, tuck in the ends and top stitch the bottom from the outside making sure I'm hiding the stitching I did from the inside. I then finish up the top where I stopped short and run down the sides of the ends.

    Maybe my description is a bit confusing, so let me know if I can clarify :)

    Jerrylee and Canada_Steve, thanks a million for the suggestions they've helped me figure put more in my own head how it should go together. Never thought I'd say this but unfortunately the sewing machine has been packed away over christmas so I haven't been able to work on the band. I'll post photos of progress soon as though.

  9. This is technically true, but not very useful. Yes, I could spend many hours and days reading denim forums and blogs to develop a deep and personal understanding of denim. But why should that be necessary? This kind of response will drive away the vast majority of people. All I'm asking for is a basic guide or comparison of some high quality raw denim fabrics, even if it's as simple as:

    - A, great texture, not as durable.

    - B, solid all around, best bang for your buck

    - C, often considered the best but very overpriced.

    - D, overhyped, don't bother.

    Your signature reads, "to a denimhead, the journey is the destination." I began this thread by saying I am NOT a denim head (yet!). I'm asking for some collective denimhead wisdom, so that I can enjoy some kick-ass jeans.

    No more than any other forum, it is considered impolite to wade in and ask for the accumulated knowledge of the mebers without contributing. However as someone with an interest in bespoke menswear and some experience of it and sourcing denim I will try to help you as best I can.

    Firstly although it is likely your tailor will have an industrial machine capable of sewing through layers of denim, s/he is unlikely to have a chainstitch machine that produces the type of stitch as factory made machines. A chainstitch is actually inferior in terms of strength compared to a lockstitch machine but it is associated with denim very strongly.

    Secondly although jeans and selvedge denim jeans are different to tailored trousers in terms of pocket placing and finishing the differences are not that radical. The major departure to a tailor will be that the outseam will have to be straight in order to keep the selvedge, this means all the shaping has to be done on the inseam and the last few inches towards the top (pocket bags).

    Thirdly as you're working on a cut make and trim basis I presume, you will want only a small amount of cloth i.e. 3metres is a standard length for mens trousers in a narrow width cloth (i.e. selvedge denim). Your best bet will be cloth jobbers such as Premium Denim Outlet in LA http://www.premiumdenimoutlet.com/ as well as Pacific Blue Denim http://pacificbluedenims.com/index.php, and you will likely pay an invoice charge for a small order (under 50 metres).

    I'm actually going to make jeans but need to buy selvedge denim first. I want to see nihon menpu denim but can't/don't have access to it, so I'm going to use cone denim.

    Pacific Blue Denim have denim from Nihon Menpu listed.

  10. I finally have jeans for sale on my web store (and more coming soon). I've scheduled a photo shoot with a photographer friend so I can replace the washed-out product photos that I took. Photography has never been my strong suit but I was anxious to get the ball rolling on the web store. Feedback is highly appreciated, i.e. what information needs to be clarified, etc.

    http://www.jerrylees...im-straight-leg

    Any tips on getting the waistband on? I'm trying now and after it twisted around itself I've had to take the bugger out again. Do you sew the top of the waistband first to stop it twisting? Also I'll have to do my waistband in two pieces due to the amount of cloth I had, I couldn't cut it on the grain. Please help! It's driving me nuts, I was up until 3am the last night trying to finish it.

  11. I got a question for the cone heads here. How much fabric is typically in a roll? I know Roy sources some of his stuff from cone, is that typical or are most of the indie companies working with fabric from cone getting it from someone like premium denim outlet?

    In the woolen trade mills deal in a 'piece' which is 60 metres. For weavers in linen and cotton, and particularly in 'narrow goods' aka 'single width' or selvedge denim minimums can be higher, some will sell pieces at 50/60 metres and some will do production runs from 200 metres for instance.

  12. where are you guys learning how to make your own shirts/jeans? wikipedia? lol

    ie. which stitches to use (or even what each stitch is), adjustments for patterns, etc

    I have used the cutter and tailor forum as well as this gent's sewing blog, he's self taught as well http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.ie/

    I will be reading through the thread again in greater detail, I just wondered what fabric people would recommend for the pocket bags for a light (10oz-ish) pair of jeans - I was thinking linen, but wasn't sure it would hold up very well. I notice the Cloth House have some linen/hemp fabric which looks heavier, but thought it might be a bit overkill and not very comfortable next to the skin.

    Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, and thanks for all the inspiration provided so far!

    Where abouts are you based I might be able point you towards a few suppliers for trimmings? Peculiarly enough you've hit on a nod to denim tradition as apparently the first Levis were made from hemp cloth. Linen should hold up fine as it is a stronger fibre than cotton and one of the few that gets stronger when wet, that's why it was used in articles that required frequent washing like bedlinen.

    Yours mums old machine might surprise you as older all-metal domestic machines are stronger than modern ones that have plastic gears.

  13. Hey, yes feel free to call but we answer any and all inquiries that we receive, so I am sure you have received a reply from someone in our office by now. In any case, feel free to contact us at our office Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm JST.

    Just to let you know I haven't received a reply from you guys as yet. I sent another mail today and rang and left a voicemail. Last heard from you on 17/12/12

  14. Oranswell, Perhaps you could find several people to place a bulk order and split the price. I've always been pretty open about where I source my materials but it seems with so many people getting into the boutique/high-end denim business I think a lot of folks are guarding their sources. I've personally spent many frustrating hours on the internet searching for materials, calling wholesalers, etc. I know it's a huge pain in the ass, but ultimately it's rewarding when you find that piece of the puzzle you've been searching for. Anyway, good luck, be sure to post your work!

    Jerrylee, I'll probably end up doing that or maybe just buying the rivets and tacks and trying to flog them online myself. It's a good thing I like being obsessive over details. I'll put stuff up when tis done, still waiting for a set of french curves in the post so I can smooth out curves on my draft.

    @oranswell: there are no interlinings.

    Must be a very soft comfortable collar, most modern shirts are fused and not very breathable. I see you're based in Germany, you might be interested in this company that make buttons from horn, corozo nut, mother-of-pearl etc. http://www.augsburger-knopffabrik.de/ They sell small amounts starting at 25 buttons so may be of interest to other people here. They'll make your own shape/size of button for orders of 250 pcs so well worth a look.

    I finally have jeans for sale on my web store (and more coming soon). I've scheduled a photo shoot with a photographer friend so I can replace the washed-out product photos that I took. Photography has never been my strong suit but I was anxious to get the ball rolling on the web store. Feedback is highly appreciated, i.e. what information needs to be clarified, etc.

    http://www.jerrylees...im-straight-leg

    Your jeans look great, I hope to be able to reach your and Nietenhosens levels of workmanship with time. I love your old machines too, they really are gorgeous. I have my grand aunts 128K in the Golden Sphinx design, here's a few pics for fellow fans of old all-metal machines http://imgur.com/a/n2sG9

  15. Rodeo Bill,

    Just wanted to let you know I loved the interview with you where you talk about the Guernsey your grandmother handknitted you. I have one myself that my aunt made made me on condition I find and buy the special 5-ply worsted Guernsey yarn. Doing that is what taught me to appreciate real materials and the skill of the handmade, [mine took almost a year to knit for instance] and to keep looking for it.

  16. Hello all,

    I can't find any info on traditional denim workwear made in the USA here so I thought I'd share some links here. I won't get into the debate about ''premium'' denim and these makers most definitely are not that, some have raw versions and some make hickory dungarees/overalls too. As they are in essence the carriers on of what Levi, Lee and Wrangler were, but are no longer I think they deserve a bit of attention:

    Round House, Shawnee, Oklahoma

    http://www.round-house.com/

    Prison Blues, Oregon

    http://oce.oregon.gov/products/112

    Texas Jeans, Asheboro, North Carolina

    http://www.texasjeans.com/

  17. Oranswell- What sort of rivets do you need?

    I have a small sideline producing backpacks (see me url below) and do all the sourcing of the bits & pieces. I get my rivets etc from a place in London called S&K...http://www.skfittings.co.uk/. Really nice people that run it. They'll happily sell you anything from a handful to 1,000's. No fabrics tho'

    In return, If you have any sources for heavyweight dense wools or tweeds that are happy to sell 2 or 3 metres at a time- i'd be very interested

    Mr. Black, I just need a source for plain rivets for pocket edges, cheers for that I'll give them a bell.

    Here's a list I put on a different forum that includes menswear outfitters, capmakers, glovers, brushmakers etc. all based in Ireland, the UK or EU: http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2978

    For heavier firmly woven Donegal tweeds I'd recommend Molloy & Sons, their plain Donegal range is 545g/metre and their herringbones are 610g/metre. They sell cut lengths as its known in the trade. molloyandsons.com

    As you're based in London, there are a good few cloth merchant that sell cut lengths as well to the public and the tailoring trade, where you can see the cloth on the bolt. One famous tweed specialist is W. Bill Ltd. http://www.wbill.co.uk/ and another part of the company sells wool worsted suitings, flannels etc. under the name Smith Woolens http://www.yell.com/b/Smith+and+Co+(Woollens)+Ltd-Textile+Services+and+Supplies-London-W1F7SP-4441815/

    If you can get out of London I'd recommend you visit Fox Flannel Ltd. in Somerset http://www.foxflannel.com/contact.php They have a pop up shop in London for Christmas but the mill shop would be cheaper by a country mile I should imagine.

    Suppliers of Woollen & Linen Cloth [This is for mills and merchants that sell cut lengths to the public]

    http://www.fergusonsirishlinen.com/ [irish Damask and Double Damask linen, tablecloths, napkins, handkerchiefs etc.]

    http://flaxmill.net/ [irish linen and woollens]

    http://www.harrisonsburley.com/

    http://www.handwoventweed.com/

    http://www.hebox.co.uk/

    http://www.kevinandhowlin.com/ [specialists in handwoven Donegal tweed]

    http://www.mageeireland.com/

    http://molloyandsons.com/

    http://www.vintage-mood.co.uk/ [fantastic rates on lengths of Irish linen]

    General Woollens [incl. blankets, knits, throws & yarn]

    http://www.cushendale.ie/

    http://www.foxfordwoollenmills.com/ [renowned in Ireland for their woolens incl. real blankets, dressing-gowns]

    http://www.fishermanoutofireland.com/

    http://www.handwoventweed.com/

    http://www.johnstons...re.com/retail/#

    http://www.kerrywoollenmills.ie/

    http://www.studiodonegal.ie/

    http://www.trionadesign.com/

  18. Oranswell, Perhaps you could find several people to place a bulk order and split the price. I've always been pretty open about where I source my materials but it seems with so many people getting into the boutique/high-end denim business I think a lot of folks are guarding their sources.

    Jerrylee thanks for the reply. I'm also into traditional menswear and locally made clothing and I try to spread knowledge of mills and makers as wide as I can because its the best way to make sure these guys stay in business and that these traditional crafts are kept going. Its a pity as the hardware and materials are such a tiny part of the process, skilled labour is the biggest input.

    I've personally spent many frustrating hours on the internet searching for materials, calling wholesalers, etc. I know it's a huge pain in the ass, but ultimately it's rewarding when you find that piece of the puzzle you've been searching for. Anyway, good luck, be sure to post your work!

    I hear you. I'm based in Ireland so let me know if you want sources for woolens, tweeds or Irish linen.

  19. created some new shirt styles lately, for example this greenish 6,5oz chambray western...

    13916976.89a9c1cb.1024.jpg

    13923056.25de9ba2.1024.jpg

    Did you use an interlining for the shirt collar?

    Also for guys based in the EU does anyone know decent suppliers that'll small amounts of rivets and tack buttons as well as selvage denim? At the moment it looks like I'll have to buy bags of tacks and rivets from YKK at 2,500 per bag! Also it seems a bit wasteful to post small amounts huge distances, rather than buying from the main stockist in Europe and there must be one somewhere. I tried contacting denim makers in the UK but none of them would let me know who they buy from, which is a shame.

    Also looking for the D-core American and Efird thread by the cone.

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