JDelage

I've been in touch with both Buaisou and Arpenteur about those 2 shirts. Right now, it's a mystery, because the threads were confirmed to be 100% cotton. Arpenteur says the cotton is dyed white, which I suppose is completely normal. I don't get the feeling they have intricate knowledge of every step of the production. There's no mention anywhere of the cotton provenance, number of twists, etc. So it's possible the fabric undergoes some form of treatment somewhere in the process that Arpenteur's not aware of. They have done some trials on vegetal dyes (but not indigo) that were satisfactory. The long sleeve shirt I've had for over 2 years and it has been washed multiple times, including at least one time warm. With perfect hind sight I obviously wouldn't send the Arpenteur shirts. The result isn't unappealing, but it makes no sense to pay for 10+ dips and get a medium shade. With this said, the shirts are garment dyed, so they cannot display the kind of dynamic coloring you see in a PBJ tee. We'll see how they evolve over time and whether the very complicated Buaisou process pays dividends later. The Warehouse shirt looks great IMHO, thanks to its texture. The other two lack character at this point. There's definitely a different hue to some other garment-dyed items I've had. The blue has a dusty feel to it. Would I repeat the experience? Maybe, especially to get a lighter shade of indigo. That would be fun on a super lightweight pair of summer pants. I would happily do it myself, but to do it well requires a large container and a lot of solution. I've done a few pieces in a 5 gallon bucket, and it was impossible to get a consistent color.

Here are my 3 shirts back, two from Arpenteur and one Warehouse. All were white initially. The Arpenteur shirts didn’t take the dye very well. The Warehouse is a #2 dye job, and the Arpenteur are #3 & #4. The shirt on the right should be near black. Maybe it’s something to do with the Rachel weave? I’m looking forward to seeing how they evolve. The color is very uniform, quite flat right now, which makes sense for a garment dyed item.

Pics from Buaisou. The shirts are in transit. Apparently the 2 Arpenteur shirts didn’t take the indigo well; not sure why.

Would indigo dye used in Nimes at that time come from woad?

Beautiful color on that sweatshirt!

40 yen per gram for "regular" shades of indigo, +10JPY for the darkest option, see here: https://www.buaisou-i.com/indigodyeservice I just received the bill, which is JPY39,240 for 3 shirts (incl. 1 long sleeve in extra dark), and that includes the shipping back to the US. I think it's only worth it (if at all) for good quality new items, IMHO.

Honeycombs on one but not the other...

Ah, I missed that, very cool. Well I have sent a couple items there for dyeing. We'll see what we get back...

The Buaisou tee is kabelled, presumably with the date of its dyeing…?

Sun Surf & FW tonight.

Cruz Fedora from Hemlock, a hat with a nice wide brim. Also, Buaisou tee.

Farmer’s market outfit: Columbia hat, Samurai polo, Tender pants, Golden.

Does anyone here have any experience with FC's black denim?

OCBD = Oxford cloth button-down

Samurai…

I also have the T-shirt 1 in dark indigo. It's lovely, but I now think the mid-indigo dye job might be more interesting. I also have one of their bandana, which is interesting, but some they've made for other brands are even nicer: https://www.buaisou-i.com/bandana They have a cool service where they will dye for the customer, on a per weight basis. I would do that if I had the network in Japan to organize this.

@smoothsailor - if shipping to the US, you will be asked for a "ball test certificate" to import glasses. Look it up. You can just download the form and fill it up yourself, but FedEx won't deliver without it. It's mostly an inconvenience because your shipment will wait for 1+ week for that to get resolved while you exchange emails with a fedex rep.

I have some Gramicci climbing pants, & they are great - very light weight and loose, super comfy. Very casual though.

What are your favorite super light weight long pants? Mines are the MFSC naval chinos in chambrais, but I’d love some other option.

Does anyone have an example of how the *slub* jersey tees evolve over time? Trying to understand the difference with the regular jersey PBJ tees...

Love the overalls and striped tee.

Someone should get this: https://corlection.com/collections/the-freewheelers-and-company/products/freewheelers-special-heavy-weight-athletic-sweat-shirt-jet-black-x-dark-crimson?variant=42149375410229

Columbia hat, Sugar Cane shirt, Tender belt, FW Longshoreman

Is that indigo overdyed black?

Damasko X Freewheelers…