Robroy

It’s finally happened. Not only do I have more denim than I can wear out, I’m getting to where it doesn’t fit anymore. 
I guess call this an interest check, several pairs of 47s of varying degrees of wear. All pairs are made in the USA versions and were raw when new. All are waist 32. One pair is 36 inseam the rest are 34 inseam. One pair of Japanese version that’s 33x36. They all roughly come out to 30-31x 30-31. 
Off the top of my head I’m thinking $200 for dark, $150 for mid wear and $125 for the well worn pairs. Those prices are shipped in the USA. If you’re outside the us I’ll get you a quote. 

On 12/29/2021 at 7:11 PM, kicks79 said:

While it might not be everyone's cup of tea, the jeans at least seem super wearable to me.

It's what all the youth are into these days, oversize and baggy. These will sell super well in the Japanese, Korean, and HK markets.

Further evidence that if you just hold on to your current sense of style long enough fashion will come back around for you to be hip yet again. 

@Duke Mantee are those punches for setting spots and studs? Those prongs look to be the correct width as the spots and studs prongs. 

Great stuff Duke. You don’t have to be a westerner to appreciate how cool those western belts are. 
I’ve got a question for ya, how are you setting your spots? Do you have a machine? 
i picked up some spots and gems from standard to fool around with but I haven’t quite found a good method for setting them. 

@JMS yeah they are my bad. 
 

another example, this one made in the USA, looks like they’re maybe washed but a few times if at all, for basically what you would have paid for them new at the time. 
 

https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/c926017030

@MoreCoffeePlease

for instance: https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/x1005387703

@MoreCoffeePlease you can still find made in the USA versions on eBay and yahoo Japan. You’re going to pay through the nose for new with the tags, but slightly worn ones are still very reasonable. 

@Hoohoodunit historically (last decade or so) LVC non shrink to fit models measure what they are tagged at ie, 31” waist measures 31”

Raw LVC measure the size it starts out at so a tagged 31” waist would shrink down to a 29ish and stretch out an inch (give it take). 
 

as always it’s best to have the particular garment you’re considering measured. 

Main line Levi’s from early to mid 90s 

On 6/1/2021 at 1:30 PM, Maynard Friedman said:

I’ve been wearing my 76s lately and really enjoying them but one minor irritant (on both my pairs) is the width of the chainstitched hem, it’s far too wide in my opinion. I owned a few pairs of selvedge 501s back in the 80s (some of which may have been from the late 70s) and they all had narrow hems. None of my other era LVC have this wide hem issue either so I’m not sure if it’s a deliberate ‘feature’ or simply inaccurate sewing from a factory used to making wider hems for other brands.

Pics or it didn’t happen  

@ameritech
Mr Randal did quite a bit of posting about this over at denimbro 

http://www.denimbro.com/levis-vintage-clothing-japan-lvcj_topic4302.html

@Dr_Heech that’s some good info there Doc. 
 

I sure would like an explanation why the denim recipe changed over the years. My early pairs of 47s (2006-2007) are noticeably different than any of my later 47 cones. 

On 9/6/2020 at 1:06 PM, kennyton said:

Hi i was planning on up grading my modern 501 stf. I sized true to size at 28 x 30 They’re my favorite fit of denim and they look like this. They fit relatively straight and has a clean silhouette. And they don’t have that weird dent / bunching up in the knees that I used to have problems with. https://imgur.com/a/NVZTJqS 

Does anyone know what lvc would best fit like that? I’ve heard the 1966 should be closest but wanted to hear more thoughts. 

 

Kinda hard to say by pictures alone. Most of us go by measurements. Start doing your homework, grab a paper tape measure those jeans and start comparing various models in your size. 
 My advice is once you get it narrowed down to a particular model, jump on eBay, and start looking for listings that someone bought raw and have given up on. Essentially reverse engineering finding your size and model. This helps mitigate the pain of buying your first raw pair, shrinking them down only to find out X doesn’t work for you. GL. 

@beautiful_FrEaK here are my two other pairs from the same years span of each other. 
 

@unders I’ve read that blogpost before and have been hoping paulT would chime in. 
 I go back and forth on fakes or not. The problem I have with the fake theory is that every other detail is spot on. Why would you go through the hassle of getting EVERY other detail correct and then let that blue line slide. I’ve owned the offending pair, not since raw but maybe a cold soak. They’ve shrank to the exact same dimensions as the other two. Not only that but the way the waist band shrinks, stretches back out and hangs is the same (which is different than all my post 2007 Levis). 

Maynard - I own two other pairs bookending these. One from fall of 06, one fall of 07. Every other detail is identical. Including the denim recipe. 
 

at first I thought they were fakes, but there’s nothing to indicate they’re anything (minus the blue line) but genuine. Then my thoughts turned towards samples, but again I’ve come across LVC samples they’re stamped as such. 
a total mystery to me. 

I’ve posted this already over at denimbro, but hoping some of the resident LVC historians can weigh in on these: 

Factory codes date these March 2007. Everything about them are like my other early pairs of LVC 47’s, I can not find any errors or irregularities other than the selvedge line. Discuss:

What's the sizing like on current 1947s? If I wear a 31x34 in regular STFs should I go with that size in the 47s?

32x34, but always ask for measurements to be taken in the actual jean that is being purchased.

Anybody any any info on how much the 50's shorthorn flannels shrink up with a wash? Thanks!

I bought current seasons red flannel check Longhorn from the sir and Madame sale and experienced a little shrinkage in the chest and even less in length. Not enough ruin the sizing for me. Also I bought a shorthorn recently, from a closeout site, Camo blue check from the spring summer 12 line, despite the sanforized label with a wash setting of warm/cold and a run through the dryer I did get some shrinkage, both in length and in the chest. It went from a perfect fit down to snug. Sadly, not quit enough shrinkage that I would have sized up. I will be hang drying the shirt from now on.

Pre wash:

Bumping this thread to see if I can get a quick opinion on GW goatskin vs horsehide?

It's really a personal preference thing. There are pros and cons to both. You cant really go wrong with either. If your having John make you one, call or email him and ask for some samples.

For what it's worth my preference is horse.

Tigerprawn, how is the sizing in the 50's tees. I found a good deal but I am not sure how to size them. Could you post some pics?

Levi's shirt

'47 LVC

WESCO packers

No time for leisure here. Working in my work wear.

Levi's

Mechanix

'47 LVC

WESCO packers

here are my lvc 47s post wash

my waist: 30ish

prewash 47 measured: 32

post wash (before wearing) measured a touch under just under 31

*soaked for 40 minutes in bathtub

post soak fit pictures..

Kinda hard to tell from the pics, ask somebody to take a picture for you (outdoors preferably)

From what I can see I think you did well. They will stretch back out with some wear, if they feel too tight. I'm about your size and my '47's are snug at first and then just right after a week or so.

Love the big cuffs.

this is probably a very stupid question, but does anyone else have a problem with the thicker belts "popping" out?

I have a corter belt, and I feel like the thickness of the leather, plus the leather going over the roller, creates a protrusion nearly an inch long.

What I like to do for my leather goods that aren't cooperating is wet them and then "massage" them into the shape I want them to take. Whilst wearing the belt, pull on the end and press on the bulge. Keep doing this until dry. Sometimes (depending on thickness, tanning methods type of hide ect) I need more than one go at it. Remember wetting and drying will suck some of the oils from the leather, it doesn't hurt to give the leather a coat of leather oil say a week or so after a shape has been taken.

Anybody know the story of Levi's current iteration of the 501's inseam? Mine have two rows of stitching, unlike all my other 501's LVC, preshrunk or STF.