Foxy2

On 4/13/2022 at 2:01 AM, SmokeStackLightning said:

Just got a pair of raw Okinawa in. Is the below a fault, or nothing to worry about? I’ve never noticed the orange thread at the crotch seam being off center like this before. 

Edit: I have them soaking now, the stitching seems solid and I won’t ever see the area, just curious. 
 

Pretty standard, ‘modern’ assembly method for jeans.

the front panels and back panels are pre-assembled at the fly front and back crotch separately so that you end up with 2 bigger pieces for the final assembly. This allows for good handling of the back yokes or the the front pockets and fly front details.

the final assembly starts with the inseam from one hem to the other hem with a free-arm or arm-down 2/3 needle felled seam chain stitch machine - as a consequence the crotch seams between front part and back part don’t always align perfectly. Sometimes this can be deliberate for heavier denim as the number of folded layers of denim are tricky to sew over cleanly. The bar tack on top of this tricky area ‘bolts’ it down and gives extra strength.

with the front and back panels joint at the inseam to a single piece, the last bit of the final assembly is to chain stitch the outer seam and ironing the seams apart flat.

the very last part work is then hemming and waist belt assembly with belt loops attaching, bar tacking, etc.

please be patient - it might take a day or two to add pics and measurements...

Tops

PBJ

Hoodie
Size 3

Studio D’Artisan

Hoodie
Size Small
Lined

Hoodie
Size Medium
Lined

Belts

Iron Heart

Natural, lightly worn
Need to check size…

Samurai

Size 34
Heavy

Waistcoats

Nigel Cabourn

Size 50
Linen & Harris Tweed

Shoes & Boots

Sorel

Maverick Brown
US 8
New, Never Worn with box - Definitely bigger than my go to Tricker’s UK 7

Palladium & Mister Freedom

Pallademin
US 7
New, Never Worn with box - Definitely smaller than my go to Tricker’s UK 7

Tricker’s

Chelsea Caffe Suede
UK 7
New , Never Worn with box, no shoe trees - due to last bigger than my go to Tricker’s UK 7

Derby on M3616 last in Orange Cordovan (Italian Horse Hide)
UK 6 1/2
Lightly Worn with box, with shoe trees - half a size too small for me

Tricker’s Custom Order
Tweed on Dainite sole
UK 7 1/2 Fitting 5
Never worn outside with shoe trees, no box - half a size too big for me

Alden

Cordovan (US Horween Horse Hide) boots
US 6 1/2
Lightly worn with shoe trees (not Alden), no box - too small for me

Viberg

Cordovan (US Horween Horse Hide) boots
CAN 7
Converted from stitch-down to Goodyear-welted with Cat’s Paw soles & heel by Brian Truong/RoleClub (US), pair 11 of 16, with shoe trees, no box - too small after conversion

Adidas

Jeans 1979 Suede
US 8
Worn - too small for me

Denim Jackets

The Flat Head

6003W
W 44
Never worn

Full Count & Co

#3116
L40
Natural Indigo, bought at Yahoo.jp, looks pre-washed but not used

Fullcount
Lee Type
Size 2
Sample?, small size, short, washed but not used

Warehouse & Co

#2001
W 38
Linen/Cotton
Boxy

Shirts

The Flat Head & RJB

RJB - Steady Blue
S42
DS105L
Western shirt, chambray, snap button, slim cut, sizing almost ok but neck hole is a bit off, washed but not ironed, amazing fabric (soft)

The Flat Head
Flannel Shirt
S42
Work shirt cut
New, never worn

The Flat Head
S40
Western Shirt, snap buttons, no care labels, wabash fabric, slim cut

The Flat Head
S40
Western Shirt, snap buttons, never worn, slim cut

Iron Heart/Triple Works

Triple Works
Size Medium
Work Shirt

Iron Heart
Size Medium
Work Shirt in 3 colours (red, black, green), selvedge,

Warehouse Co.

Warehouse/Duck Digger
Size 38
Chambray, Work Shirt

Warehouse Oxford
Sample - no size (small to medium/38?)
Button down

Warehouse Oxford
Size 38
Button down

Warehouse/Dubble Works
Size M
Button down

Studio D’Artisan

#5435
Size L
Button down in white & blue

#5333A
Size M
Heavy chambray, work shirt

Fullcount

Full Count
Size 38
Button down, heavy chambray

Fullcount
Size 40
#4814
Button down, heavy chambray

Fullcount
S 40
#4858
Button down

Mister Freedom

Size Medium
Work shirt

Size Medium & Size Large
Work shirt
Size Large worn & one button missing
Size Medium lightly worn

TCB

Western Shirt
Size L???
In chambray & denim
Snap buttons

PBJ

Western Shirt
Size 2
Selvedge details, snap buttons

Sugar Cane

SC26871
Size Large
Work shirt

Finally got to clean out!

I will post as list and slowly update with pictures and measurements.

most of the stuff has been stored away for couple of years after being washed. lots of trades or bought at yahoo.jp auction - some were bought new.
prices are negotiable.
will wash before shipping out upon request.

Shipping to Europe and UK no problem....

Jeans

Conners Sewing Factory

S409XXX M-46
W34
1946 second Half (2017), 'new denim'
Bought used, inseam 75cm, lightly worn, washed

S409XXX M-WWII
W34
San Francisco (2016), 'WWII denim'
bought washed, not worn, will stretch
waist 41cm (82cm circumference) straight aligned, no tension, will stretch out with wear
inseam 85-86cm

Fullcount

1331
W32
Persimmon, xx01 or xx05 cut

 

Kapital

Century Denim Cisco 5P
W32
Persimmon
Washed, worn

 

Kicking Mule Workshop

1950 AI
W31
Rope dyed, natural indigo, washed, not worn

 

Pure Blue Japan

PBJ*Lightning
W33
Sample in sample denim, maybe XX-005 or slimmer, washed, not worn

 

XX-007
W32
deep indigo (over dyed)
Washed not worn, relatively “non-slubby” lot...

 

Real Japan Blues

D002
W33

 

Samurai

S510AI-OGSP
W31
Natural Indigo, washed, inseam 81cm, minimal wear, button whole ripped and has been re-sewn in HK by Take5

S711VX
W32
Inseam 80cm, washed, shortened, not worn

S0510CO
W32
Lot 11, corduroy, old sizing small, hemmed with lock stitch, inseam 89cm, bought used

Stevenson Overall Co

Lot 737-RXX
Size 31

Lot 747-OSC
Size 31

Lot 767-RXX
Size 30

Story

River Denim Jeans
W32

 

NI x NI Jeans
W32

 

Strike Gold

SG5105
W33
Washed, not worn

 

The Stronghold

Back Cinch
W30

 

Studio D’Artisan

SP-006
W33
122/220
30th Anniversary

 

D1673
W32
039/100
Natural Indigo???, washed

 

D1677
W33
084/100
Natural Indigo, washed

 

Sugar Cane

SC40105A
W31
Worn
this model uses a canvas/duck fabric (not denim twill) with selvedge

SC40301
W31
Black/Grey, washed

and

SC40301
W34
Green, washed

and

SC40301
W31
Persimmon, washed

Tender Co.

Type 132
W32

 

Warehouse Company

Lot 1001XX
W31
1997 WH flagship store edition, washed, not worn

Lee x Warehouse 101B 1930 Cowboy
W28
New

37 minutes ago, Toegun said:

@Foxy2 wow. Looks amazing! I admit the tiles felt a bit overwhelming with them climbing up the walls but with all the kitchen units in place I love it. 

Thanks!

we knew it was going to be a gamble, but with all the furniture and stuff in place it couldn’t turn out to be too bad.

still got a few kinks to straighten out, though - worst of them is that table and chairs not matching well enough any longer…

1 hour ago, Jared_Lee said:

Lovely stuff, @Foxy2. It's funny, when these contests end I think, "Finally, I'm free to wear whatever I want!" Then after a few days I find myself reaching for the contest pair and sliding them back on more frequently than anything else. It takes a while to let 'em go. Haha. Maybe next time they need repairs.

I know what you mean - still wearing the previous TCB contest pair…

On 3/15/2022 at 6:28 AM, Nayuta said:

 

Just posted the pics of the finished kitchen right above - it is a fun kitchen, indeed!

The only downside with hand grinders and manual lever machines is that they can make good shots - one at a time.

It works fine for me throughout the day and even when making another one for the wife every now and then, but entertaining visitors or guests with four or five shots at a time is too messy for me…

3 tiling sessions, 1 tile cutting cutting session, another tiling session and one grouting session later…

final touch-ups tomorrow and then we start with the wall tiles…

5 hours ago, Nayuta said:

Beautiful Moroccan tiles and lovely cats!

Yes, they are called Moroccan Mix and I’m going to do the walls with Casablanca Mix.

But for now the whole floor tiles are done and I need to cut the partial floor tiles and then start the grouting…

4 hours ago, MJF9 said:

@Foxy2 that looks good coffee making kit you got there in bonny Scotland... Bacchi Carioca sounds interesting, will look into that 

I spent a bit of time on coffee every day, predominantly at home.  I haven't ventured into electric home espresso machines due to the expense (ranging into £1,000s, and quite a few of them for the La Marzocco home set-up at the far end) but these human-powered versions have got me interested again.  When I go to a coffee shop, it's for an espresso predominantly as it's different from what I do at home.

These two are pieces of kit are invaluable (OK, to me, at least)...

Commandante C40 Nitro Blade Grinder - I grind my beans (go on Maynard!) daily using this delightful machine.  A barista recommended it and it's awesome.  I've found freshly ground beans and getting the grind size right for each brew method makes a big difference.  This beauty has loads of grind sizes to suit home espresso aeropress (fine) to Chemex (coarser).

Hario scales - mass (right hand scale) and timer (left hand) - invaluable I tell thee... for weighing out the beans and the hot water for each brew and timing the extraction.  I adjust the grind size to get (or try to get) the 'right' extraction time.  

I also use bottled water with low solid residue etc - the values for the water constituents I adopted are in a book somewhere - anyhow Tescos own bottled does the job nicely.  It makes a difference, honest

For beans, there are loads of good quality roasteries that do postal delivery so I use those - Campbell and Syme are a current favourite, Nude Espresso near Brick Lane is fantastic, Origins are reliable et etc etc and Cuppers Choice in good ole Sheffield do some top stuff too

PS I hasten to add non of the above is new news, just while we were on topic I thought I'd add my two penneth...

The Bacchi is something that @volvo240thebest had recommended in the past - took me a while to get and I still haven’t used it.

I couldn’t justify a Comandante. Quite happy with my Knock AerGrind. And it’s designed in Scotland. The wife is happy with her Zassenhausen and her Porlex, when traveling.

I do weight the coffee beans with a Timemore, but I haven’t really used the timer function to measure extraction time or started weighting the resulting espresso, yet. Maybe I do start that one day…

17 hours ago, unders said:

Ha! I noticed the spirit level was conveniently obscured behind the jeans in your first photo…

Got a proper one, too!

Overall, the tiles are level, but I f*ed up the self levelling screed layer and now have tricky areas. In addition, some of the tiles seem to have thicker edges - so there is some lippage going on.

But my assistants keep telling me they don’t mind…

17 hours ago, MJF9 said:

…

^^ I watched a few clips of the Rok in action and it looks great, especially, as you say, at that price point. Cool piece of kit.

To make an 'espresso' at home, I use a Fellow Prismo metal filter on my Aeropress... following the guide, it works pretty well.  More often, though, I use the Aeropress as a change from filter (V60, Chemex or Khalita Wave) 

There are a few manual lever machines in the market for quite some time now and the ROK, Rocket and Flair seem to be getting the biggest hype over the more recent years.

By the looks of it the Flair seems to be the most complete for a price point that gets you a regular machine, though.

I also have a standard edition AeroPress and a Bacchi Carioca stovetop somewhere buried in Berlin that, for some reason, haven’t started checking out, yet.

Here in Scotland I’m using my Stagg pour over set-up and an older small electric Bialetti Moka Express. I’ve not really used the the electric Bialetti much in the past and came to find the results lacking over the traditional stovetop version - will have to bring the stovetop one over from Berlin next time.

between the pour over, the stovetop Bialetti and the ROK I should be all set in Scotland and maybe I’ll find the motivation to play around with the Bacchi and the AeroPress…

Thanks @Thanks_M8 - it’s going to be lively & colourful!

No one will notice if/that the tiles are not exactly level…

One tilling session later…

@MJF9 no way of knowing with the ROK - there’s no pressure gauge (or electric heating like at the Flair Pro or Flair 58, but these are at an entirely different price level).

Allegedly, reaching the pressure or at least getting very close to it is not an issue. If James Hoffmann’s tests and reviews are to trusted this technology is more than capable of producing some nice shots.

I only had had mine since Xmas, but for about £150 (for a new one) I got a big improvement over my Mokka Express - haven’t done AeroPress - and I’m happy. Though it’s easy to under or over-extract…

We have our own electric micro-grid on the island which made me shy away from getting a proper machine, so far.

Meanwhile up in The North:

chipped in for the Valentine’s Day Dance we put up for the community - made some cocktails…

came home by 04:00 in the morning.

will try to link a video…

A latte in the morning…

 

it’s a bit messy with pre-heating the portafilter and the brew chamber, but it’s been a lovely Xmas present!

Will do soon - got my worn-out regular cut pair with me and started breaking in my straight wide cut pair recently.

no tapered cuts, through…

@Maynard Friedman bought it when it came out (2018/19?) - should be 1st edition…

current selection:

3rd edition of Paul Strand’s 1954 trip to Uist from 2016 and the 2 latest offerings from the modernist - manchester.

 

Heading north - passing through Glasgow.

killing time - waiting for the train.