dawei94
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Posts posted by dawei94
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Denime
in superdenim
1 minute ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:@dawei94 I dare to say it's impossible to have a complete list of that. Denime started in 1988 and had its heydays in the 90s and that era is not so well documented. Of course, you have the standard Levi's models they reproduce but even here they did S-Types, A-Types and such things that on first glance looked like a regular 66 model but wasn't. Then they also did cinchback models of Levi's. Besides those, they also did Lee and Wrangler models.
In terms of Anniversary models it easier and you have the Kyoto and Tokyo model as known special products.
I think you are talking about the 1951 model I have? It's a single run from the Shins-era, black print on the patch and indeed 15oz denim was used.
Under Shins (I think) there was also a XX Type2 model, a variation of the standard XX. I might be able to list some of the core models in a separate post.
Ah yeah I was thinking of the 1951s, and then because there were special Tokyo and Kyoto models, I figured there might be special models for other stores as well, but maybe not. Based on PSA's website, there was definitely a big catalog of more random items that probably aren't notable to the same level as the Tokyo / Kyoto / 1951 models, those I'm a bit less interested in because (right or wrong) to me, they're less significant or notable for the history of the brand
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Denime
in superdenim
1 hour ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:Just in case you guys haven't seen it already and are interested, new DENIME Instagram account is live
On 7/28/2022 at 1:39 PM, dawei94 said:It's interesting that now we have one of the Osaka 5 buying another of the Osaka 5, both of which were formed to make repro vintage Levi's, and now one of them is making repros of the other's (now vintage) repros of vintage Levi's. Kind of like an inception...
Said it before and I'll say it again, the inception of vintage Levi's repros is here.
B_F, do you happen to have the details on the various store-specific models and other limited production jeans from old-era Denime? I saw there was that blog post on the Kyoto model, and I think I remember you mentioned you had found a pair that was made from a heavy 15oz denim? I feel like post-Shins, the emphasis was entirely on the XX and 66XX models, would be a shame if the info on those other models was lost, and maybe Warehouse will even bring some of them back (one can hope at least). After all, Warehouse doesn't just reproduce the 1947, they do all the other eras too
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FYI, for all interested potential customers outside Japan, Kuniyoshi-San just posted on IG saying that he’s working on a website for international orders
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Some updates on my 202s with the Kiraku denim, had them tapered at Railcar fine goods over the summer and have worn them for about 4 months, no washes but probably 3-4 soaks. Putting them away because it's winter now and the open weave makes it a bit chilly when it's cold and windy (plus I just got my Double Volantes that I've been waiting years to commission so I'm excited to put some wear on those). These are incredibly comfortable to wear given the pliability, the light weight and the open weave (particularly in the summer). I'm thinking of putting away a second pair of 202s because of the relaxed cut (Oni seems to change up with Kiraku cuts every year). Only thing to note, with just 4 months of wear, there's a lot of pilling around the crotch, s o I'm unsure about the durability of the denim, but I'd gladly take the tradeoff for how comfortable they are to wear
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17 minutes ago, Thanks_M8 said:
Warehouse, fullcount, denime. Resolute, evisus summer denim are also around that 13oz range, so on the lighter end of the spectrum
I didn't know that Evisu had a summer denim, that's definitely helpful to know! I would have categorized most of the others as midweight since they're ~14oz, but the Fullcount 13.7oz and Warehouse banner denim are definitely more pliable / comfortable than most denims in that weight range and more in line with a lightweight denim. Will need to go check out Resolute, and do you know what the current state of Denime is? I saw they got acquired by Warehouse, but not sure if they've released any new product yet
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Given most denim is midweight (what I'll call 13oz to 16oz) and there's a fair amount of heavy denims (over 16oz) available as well but not a lot of makers of lightweight denim, I thought it might make sense to have a dedicated thread to lightweight denims. The ones that are available off the top of my head are the Oni 12oz Kiraku denim (many models), the PBJ 1143's 12oz denim, the Momotaro 0405-12 denim, various Japan Blue denims (there seems to be at least 3 in the below 13oz range), and the Sugar Cane 2014's 12oz denim. Are there any other lightweight denims out there that people are aware of, and what do you like / dislike about any of them?
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To revive this thread, I ultimately did go to Okinawa and just received my pair of jeans. The details are as follows:
- 1947 cut, size 38, tapered a bit below the knee (the size 36 actually might have been a bit better in the waist as it was buttonable but very tight, but my upper legs needed the 38)
- 14oz denim, kind of a repro type of look (Kuniyoshi-san asked me what I liked and I told him "vintage like Warehouse, Sugar Cane" and he proposed this one. He noted that it's woven by a person / factory that used to weave for Warehouse, and I believe but can't remember it's woven on a G3 loom. Definitely has a similar look to my Warehouse 1001ZXX that I'm now too fat for in that the denim is somewhat dark, has a lot of subtle irregularity and is quite hairy, but it's quite a bit heftier in feel than the Warehouse Banner denim or the new denim they used for a number of models including the 1001ZXX)
- Tochigi leather patch (he had other colors as well as leather from other areas, but I wanted something Japanese)
- Okinawa bingata pocket bags, different patterns on each side (the pocket bags are also quite hefty, they feel like heavy canvas)
- Iron top button with DV logo, gunmetal gear rivets and zipper (I wasn't offered a choice on type of zippers like previous posters and was also not that particular about it. There were a variety of button and rivet choices in both color / material / design, I don't think they've changed over the years as I had pretty much all the choices I had seen others post about)
- Metal loop (for sunglasses) I added last minute after seeing other blog posts that had them
- Mostly orange stitching, though there's some yellow (he had a number of colors available and I like orange more than yellow. I later saw that he had some two-toned yellow/orange models, which I actually prefer more as I think it's more historically accurate, but he peppered in some yellow so it still came out nicely, and I'm not enough of a denim nerd to know which stitches should be orange vs yellow)
- I think he styled it like a 1955, I've seen the off-center angled belt loop on other 1955z
In terms of details, I think the only thing that has really changed is his denim offerings, I didn't see a 21oz (though he may still have it) and there was a huge selection in the 13-15oz range. I think this 14oz is his "default" as a lot of the blog posts recently have a 14oz repro-looking G3-woven denim, and I quite liked it. I've worn it one day so far and it's a nice weight for year round to even 40-ish F / 5-ish C weather (though probably too much for Okinawa, I was wearing a pair of Oni 12oz and was still sweating heavily). It does also seem like there's more DV available in the West / outside of meeting him directly now, there's a store Blue First Star in Okinawa that carries a couple models and there's a Denim Bridge model carried by DC4 that Double Volante produced as well
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For an American, “Per Ljung” could very well be a Swede’s name, so the confusion regarding the store’s name is understandable.
On another note, great to see Resolute continues to see increased retail distribution
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I'm sure this has been mentioned by brand at various points in their own threads, but thought it would be helpful to get a consolidated thread of interesting stuff that's only available in Japan? For example, when Warehouse opened their new Osaka store, there was supposed to be a 1946 DSB model exclusive to that store, Junky (a retailer in Tokyo that carries a lot of Toyo brands, Warehouse, etc.) has some interesting collabs as well, and Evisu will paint the gulls in different colors on the back pockets (or even things besides the gulls). Is there anything else that's notable and only available in Japan for the various brands that are discussed on Superdenim?
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Does anyone know if any denim brands or mills do tours of their factories / mills in Okayama, or their headquarters in Tokyo / Osaka? Anything where you can learn more about the brand beyond seeing their product in a flagship store
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18 hours ago, mstax said:
Hi everyone, new here and I’m looking to maybe get my first pair of WH jeans. I am in doubt between a TCB 50s and a WH 1001xx heavy ounce: https://secondsunrise.se/products/warehouse-co-lot-1001xx-jeans-heavy-ounce?_pos=1&_sid=3a03e4d8e&_ss=r
I can’t seem to find this, but does anyone know what kind of sewing thread is used on these? I’m trying to avoid poly or polycotton so hoping it’s cotton.
And fit wise, are these the same fit as the DD1001xx?
What's so bad about poly or polycotton thread that it's worth not buying jeans over?
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Denime
in superdenim
On 7/27/2022 at 10:14 AM, beautiful_FrEaK said:Yep Ale, that should be it. According to the belt loops and the denim crinkles.
Edit: what I find interesting, the goal from Warehouse is to go back to the Orizzonti era and its quality. But that was exactly the same spirit of the Original Line where they also went back to the old sewing factory and denim mill. Will be interesting to see if people trust Warehouse more to achieve this than they did with Wego
It's interesting that now we have one of the Osaka 5 buying another of the Osaka 5, both of which were formed to make repro vintage Levi's, and now one of them is making repros of the other's (now vintage) repros of vintage Levi's. Kind of like an inception...
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Denime
in superdenim
5 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:These should be close to Orizzonti era according to Naoki (BEARS).
The denim is again very dark, especially for the XX denim.
I think the stitching really looks closer to Warehouse but I probably only say that because we know they are made by Warehouse.They will start offering 4 items.
Type2 and Type3 jacket and for jeans a XX-type and a BigE type (no 66 model) [ @indigoeagle interesting that naoki brought this up..seems he/they also differ between 66 models and BigE models for 60s jeans]).edit: also notice the shorter inseams. In the same area where Warehouse has their jeans
Will you be getting a pair? If so, very curious to see how these fade over time, I'm working through some other pairs now but Warehouse + Denime is a very interesting combo
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Anyone have any of the Kiraku denim cuts (the 12oz super light summer fabric)? I just got the 202 (mid-high rise relaxed cut) and plan to taper it soon, the fabric is amazingly light and irregular but still soft and comfortable
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How much did the leg opening of your 66 jeans shrink over time?
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Has anyone ordered from Double Volante in recent years? If so, did you do it in-person in Japan or through Instagram? What's the current custom offering? Historically it seemed like there were a number of denims available, a lot hardware (rivets, buttons, zippers) available, a variety of custom details available if you asked for it, but only the 47 and 66 cuts (though you could get a slimmer version of either cut if he sewed the seams differently I think), is that still the case?
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If anyone is looking for the Leepro 1002, it looks like Standard and Strange just got a full size run
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My RJB RFR-04, I've had them since 2017 or so, worn on and off (for a long time I worked an office job with business casual so I was only wearing them on weekends). Unknown number of washes, but I would wash them every 6-8 weeks as they got dirty, so there's probably been at least a dozen washes at this point. The contrast is what I would characterize as moderate, which is my preference (the low contrast vintage fades are too subtle for me, but the no wash / high humidity / walking 20 miles a day ultra high contrast that used to be popular was also a bit too much for me), and I think the denim looks pretty good at this level of contrast
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Selling my IHW-02 in Grey Plaid (XL), IHSW-02 heavy weight sweat in black (XL), and SDA loopwheel sweat in grey (XL). Prices include shipping in the US, but I can also ship internationally (message me and I'll figure out how much extra shipping is to your country). I'm based in SF, so I can meet locally as well. Also potentially open to trades, but note that I now primarily wear IH workshirts in size L these days, so any trades would need to be smaller than these items Measurements Below:
IHW-02 Grey Plaid (XL) - $300
Shoulder: 52cm
Chest: 61cm
Waist: 57cm
Opening: 59cm
Length: 72cm
Sleeve: 65cm
IHSW-02 Black (XL) - $225
Shoulder: 57cm
Chest: 63cm
Opening: 56cm
Length: 66cm
Sleeve: 58cm
SDA Loopwheel Sweat (XL) - $175
Shoulder: 60cm
Chest: 68cm
Opening: 51cm
Length: 68cm
Sleeve: 59Pictures here:
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Is there still a collaboration with Warehouse in the works, and if so, what's the current ETA on those?
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if this is the last of their exclusive denim, what denim will they use for other jeans going forward?
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Superdenim community sale thread
in superdenim
Posted
Mister Freedom Mulholland Master sz 42 in Indigo jungle cloth, worn just a couple times (like new). Asking $900 shipped in the US (open to shipping internationally as well, but I would need to price it out based on the country you are in)