theotherchrislewis

On 11/27/2018 at 7:28 AM, MJF9 said:

@theotherchrislewis looks really good. I was wondering, given the blanket lining, does that effectively reduce the sizes by much? I've never owned, nor tried, a blanket lined jacket so interested to hear how it impacts chest or shoulders sizing.

To be honest, I didn't take the blanket lining into much consideration - I assumed they would factor that into the cuts & sizing and picked my size based on some basic measurements. 

The blanket isn't really 'that thick' but combined with the denim will need some breaking in to get a better fit. You may be right with the 100% wool - I just checked the store (through google translate) and it only says 'Wool' in the materials list for the blanket.

I'm 6'1" and mine (42) fits me well but it is a generous fit through the body - I think if I went down to a 40, I 'could' maybe pull it off but it would be a snug fit and not what I'm after. That chest measurement also seemed off to me, but if you look at the pic - those pits are quite a way from each other. It's just one of the 'roomier areas' on the jacket.

As a rough guide of overall 'jacket length' & 'where the shoulder sits' - it fits similar to my Iron Heart, IH-x526J (42) + LVC, Type-III (L) - but roomier through the upper body & chest area. Whereas my PBJ, Deep Indigo Type-II (4) + Momotaro, 2105SP (42) + Ande Whall, Grizzy (M) + TCB, 60's Third Type Trucker (42) are more fitted cuts on me - especially through the body & chest area. Hope that helps.

Thanks for the comments.  @Paul T Interesting about the sanforized fabric - this may not be a 'true repro' then, as it was advertised as 'unwashed with a 5% shrinkage' (and did shrink a bit). Unfortunately I didn't take any pre-soak measurements but below are my post-soak - size 42:

Centimeters / Inches
Shoulders: 51.5 / 20.25
Chest: 61 / 24
Sleeve: 66 / 26
Back: 61.5 / 24.25
Waist: 53.5 / 21.5

All in all it is a lovely jacket, it feels puffier than what I expected (but have never owned a blanket-lined jacket before) and my favourite small detail is the small folding-over of the cuffs.
I've attached a couple of pics but if you look up the code - there are heaps of good, detailed photos online. Saying that, some of those make the denim look a lot darker than what it is, I feel my shots are a truer blue. @428CJ Sounds like you have an amazing gem tucked away there! I did see a size 44 (but no 46) in both Rider & Storm Rider on Rakuten but can't remember which store sorry.

A bunch of MIJ Leepro Storm Rider jackets have recently dropped. I pre-ordered a blanket-lined with the corduroy collar off Rakuten (the shop also had the plain denim version too 'LM6013-189'). Code on the sticker says 'STORM RIDER 1119-289' (reverse side is white with 'THE ARCHIVES' on it). Mine (42) is soaking now, will post up some measurements in the next few days.

Where are you based ALB? William Lennon in the UK has a Blake/rapid stitch machine and will carry out resoling, as does Lastrite in New Zealand. Not sure about anywhere in between though!

It won't be too much closer than NZ but another place is the 'Harold Boot Company' in Melbourne. I'm not sure if they accept resoles but they do have the same machine.

Edit: They also have some nice little blurbs of the process on their site:

http://www.haroldboot.com.au/constr

Haha, well done Maynard. Yeah, they were size 32 - rep for being a clever stalker!

Agreed, they wern't that bad as far as overall fit goes (not as 'relaxed' as my Warehouse 1001XX) but around the waist they were slightly too big from word go and I had to wear a belt to stop them sliding (nothing to do with shrinking / stretching). Just thought I'd mention it as if someone sized tts, they would probably look ever so slightly slimmer than in my pic..... thought if I was wearing them for a whole year I'd go up 1 for 'comfort'.  (BTW, I'm just over 6'1 and would have been around 85kg back then)

You know I wonder how that buffalo fit looks on a person....  

Here is a link from the Ande Whall Contest thread, the bottom pic is of me wearing my Buffalo's,

probably at 10 months wear or so - I probably could have / should have gone down one size on

these but you get the idea.

http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php/topic/114904-ande-whall-contest-thread/page-33#entry2834348

Can anyone help please?

As you have highlighted with your examples above, different denims shrink & stretch differently so without knowing which ones you are referring to, it is hard to give you information on their individual properties and to make a generalisation on Viapiana denim as a whole would not help you out all.

I think your best bet is to pick a few denim options that appeal to you, then send the team at Viapiana a message asking about the shrinking/stretching properties of your selections. It would be best to include them in the process of creating your jeans as they will have/should have run tests on each of them and will have a much better understanding.

Saying that you may be lucky and manage to pick some denim options that people on this forum have had some experiences with, and get some good feedback but emailing the guys should get you a quicker response.

Hope this helps!

They look great Chris, I've been admiring those on the Wakefield blog and if I was still in Welly, would have ordered a pair myself. They remind me of the William Lennon Dundas boot and I know they use the same, rare brass screw sole construction method.

Cool - thanks for the info! I'm keen to look into the construction method some more now. I did see a blurb somewhere which said something about the construction being done in some traditional and rare method but I didn't know too many of the finer details - I guess that could make it harder to get them resoled then, if only a handful of people are still doing it?

Like you, I've had my eye on them after seeing his blog - and the online pictures do make them look appealing but they look way better in the flesh - all the little/subtle details you pick up. And the deal breaker was when I saw this lighter coloured leather on a pair that Hemi happened to be waxing at the time was there - the other leathers were great, but this particular colour really stood out to me.

Beautiful boots Chris, how much does a custom order cost? Only over in Melbourne so wouldn't be too far to travel for a look!

Cheers Aires, PM'd you - go for it dude! You'll find some more leather options and details here. I forgot to say that I'm over in Melbourne early December and hear you guys have some nice artisan shoe/boot studios/shops/etc. over there - so if you can recommend any places for me to check out, please reply to my PM. Cheers!

Yeh, those are stunners Chris and Hemi is a top bloke.

And again, cheers Mega! I thought what Hemi is doing with his boots is well worthy of living here alongside everyone else's amazing pairs that inspired me to get some in the first place. I've been a long time lurker on this (and the old) threads and had been planning to 'eventually' get a pair of nice boots for ages but for some reason had never got around to it.

Yeah, he's such a nice guy that every time I'd been down in Wellington (which is not enough) I made sure to swing past the store to check out what's new (as many of the brands he carries aren't available up in Auckland where I live) but I would end up being 'stuck there' (in a good way) chatting to him for ages, so much now that I block out some 'Wakefield Hotel-time' into my itinerary - and its one of my highlights!

Back in August, while I was down in Wellington for our local Beer Festival, I saw some pairs of NZ handmade boots at Wakefield Hotel
which caught my eye. I had seen them before in pictures online, but to hold a pair in my hands was another story and knew I had to
eventually get myself a pair so although I didn't have the funds at the time I sized myself up to order a pair at a later date.

And almost 2 months later to the day, my custom pair arrived on my doorstep. For these, I chose the bailey crust leather with double
leather sole & a rubber toe piece. This is my first pair of real 'solid boots' and I'm over the moon with them. The stitching/construction
looks immaculate and the leather has a lot of character to it and I'm really looking forward to seeing it develop over time - move over sneakers!
 

 

Cheers Hemi!

I thought the sr6 had the poncho cloth by the pockets

Yeah, it has the poncho details but you also have the option of ordering them with plain facings too.

Hi guys. With the new SR6 I always had the option for plain or poncho cloth facings and originally I had the back pockets blank....I have had quite a few people asking for the option for the Wings stitching though, sooooo I changed it so you can just choose whatever for this lot! 

SR6 just dropped......

Looks like it's the same as the older 2010/11 15.3oz denim
but with some added 'poncho cloth' detailing - very interesting!

http://andewhall.bigcartel.com/new-sr6-model

HC-SF-59  -  Red Cloud R400
 

HC-SF-59  -  Red Cloud R400
Contest 1: Movie Poster

Thought i'd add this in here too:
 

HC-SF-59  -  Red Cloud R400

I found some old photos of my contest jeans taken straight after their initial (and only) soak back in mid March. I'm pretty sure that I had only tried them on at this stage  - just to see how the shrinkage went.
 

And here are some updates from today. The weather has been pretty average here over the past few weeks, but the sun broke through this afternoon for a couple of hours so I managed snapped off some shots - completely different lighting to the pics above but enough to see the evo. The close up shots are closest to true colour.
 

HC-SF-59  -  Red Cloud R400

14.03.13  -  1 soak (unworn)

11.05.13  -  1 soak

 

HC-SF-59 checking in!

1. Red Cloud R400, 17oz, 34w

2. Heavyweight Belt - Natural Italian Russet, 1.5" with Nickle Buckle #4

HC-SF-59 checking in!

1. Here's a fit pic of my RC400 taken on April 1st, they're a size 34 and at the time I'd been wearing them for just under 2 weeks (...I thought I also took some raw shots somewhere but can't find them right now). I really like the fit, I did size 1 up so that they weren't too restricting and am looking forward to spending the next 2 years with them. This shot was taken outside the little cabin at Hot Water Beach that we rented for the Easter break. Although I didn't enter the HWDC1, I quite liked the original tee design so bought a couple to wear for this comp.

2. My belt arrived the other day - it looks really nice n tidy and I've started wearing it with my contest jeans now, I went for the Natural Italian Russet, 1.5" with the Nickle Buckle #4.

3. Here is a typical nz-style shot of Hot Water Beach with the 'good old flax bush' in the foreground (I think i'd be safe to say that most NZ'ers will have a bundle of shots like this). This was taken at a cafe across the road from where we were staying, which makes an average coffee but generates much more income renting out spades or selling singular raw eggs for.......

4. Hot Water Beach is called Hot Water Beach for a reason, it's not just some marketing ploy to fool punters into swimming there all year round. It's actually one of New Zealand's more dangerous beaches, so why such an innocent name? Well, at low tide, you can dig a hole in the sand and sit in some warm water and as the tide comes back in, the cold waves lap around you and into your warm hole. There are some thermal vents that heat the sand and in some spots it can get hot enough to boil an egg. At high tide (when this shot was taken), you can join the crowd and dig in the one small area which looks like some kind of beach rave.

Apparently the beach gets some good surf too but recently the beach has been beamed around the countries televisions on a 'primetime' reality-surf-lifesaving show, where the strong rips and unsuspecting tourists, who turn up to dig a hole and end up somewhere in the pacific make great viewing while eating your dinner.

5. Just around the corner, along a 3km track are two of my all time favourite beaches; Cathedral Cove and Mares Leg Cove, which are connected by a massive cathedral-like cave. The only other time I had seen them was on a rainy day so I was glad to finally have the chance to spend the nice day there to swim etc.

6. On the last day, we drove around the peninsular to New Chums beach and to take the scenic route home. Once again there was a walk to get there but the reward is having 6 other people on the beach with you, whereas, there were about 200 people at Cathedral Cove.

7. We went out and saw Blu and DJ House Shoes perform the other night. Blu was ment to accompanied by Exile but he fell ill and was unable to fly so DJ House Shoes filled in at the last minute. I really enjoyed DJ House shoes's set but once Blu got on the mic I thought the crowd felt kinda flat - I think that it might have something to do with the levels of the sound set up, because we could hardly hear what he was saying and it was all fat baselines. But anyways - still a good night out!

Thanks Gregornz. It is going to take a long time indeed. I was in Auckland on mon/tues for the Stone Roses gig....was great to see some dirty old buildings and a normal city for a change. The gig was top notch, shouldaa got a lemon t-shirt. Did you go Chris? How did you break your arm fella?

Hey Ande, no, I didn't end up going to the Stone Roses - a decision that I'm now regretting as my facebook feed is full of photos and reviews of how amazing the gig was! Yup, you should have copped the lemon t-shirt, I've seen a few people wearing them around - they look cool. I didn't actually break my arm but damaged some ligaments in my wrist doing boxing training - and it's not in a cast as such but more of a brace that I have to wear day 'n night for 3 weeks.

@Hyphen - Yeah, i was pretty stoked to hear about the longer sleeve version too. DO IT! the jackets are great, you won't regret it!

A bit of an x-post from the Contest thread:

Ande has designed another version of the Grizzly with an extra 2 inches on the sleeve - the Grizzly 'Long Arm Version'

He did say that the patterns are all ready to go but hasn't updated his Website with this option yet as he is waiting for a new denim roll to arrive. The reason why I have one already is because this is my prize for winning the Comeback Special Contest, unfortunately I can't wear it at the mo as I have a cast on my arm. As the guys have posted previously, this thing looks amazing, the craftsmanship is paramount with so many small details that I keep discovering.

Anyway - here it is:

Thank you very much Ande, I look forward to wearing it once my wounds heal! (and once the weather cools down a bit)

Sorry for the delay but today I finally had the chance to take some photos of my amazing Prize - a Grizzly 'long arm version' Jacket!

Due to my frame, I fitted the medium size but after receiving one from Ande, I could see the bones of my wrist poking out from the ends of the sleeve. Luckily for me, Ande has designed another version of the Grizzly with an extra 2 inches on the sleeve.

He did say that the patterns are all ready to go but hasn't updated his Website yet with this option as he is waiting for a new denim roll to arrive. I would have loved to have been able to take a fit pic, but I currently have a cast on my wrist after injuring some ligaments during boxing training so can't fit my arm into the sleeve at the mo, but will try and take some pics in a month or so when it comes off.

This thing looks amazing, the craftsmanship is paramount with so many small details that I keep discovering.

Thank you very much Ande, I look forward to wearing it once my wounds heal! (and once the weather cools down a bit)

why isnt the time passing faster!! driving me nuts looking at the hwdc pair everyday!!!

Simply wear them a twice a week until the contest begins if they're new. I only have 5 more wears allowed in mine, I'm going to miss them for the next couple of months

The boss doesn't see it as an issue... I plan to start wearing my (brand new) Red Cloud R400 pair on the 12th March to catch up with those who have already got 20 days wear from their pairs, no use giving others a head start.

Gonna rip out the tab and keep the stitching - oh wait, wrong thread!

Yeah - I dont quite have it yet, but do plan to share some pics once it arrives.

(I still haven't replaced my digital camera so will have to work something out)

Ande posted it last week so I should hopefully receive it on Monday (fingers x'd),

which will double up as a nice birthday present

Watch this space....

Hello all - my girlfriend is after a new denim skirt and I was wondering if anyone knows of any companies that do a raw denim skirt? (so she can play fades with me) The only one that I've seen so far is the APC mini skirt but she thinks that it looks too short - so I'm looking for more of a 'regular' length.

Cheers!