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Posts posted by commodorewheeler

  1. Not sure if this contest is still going on (I never found an end date in this thread), but here is my pair, x-posted from the heavyweight denim contest thread, after about a year of evening and weekend wear in rotation with a couple of pairs of lighter weight slim jeans. 2 hot soaks, 2 hot hand washes along the way.





  2. Is the SD101 the only somewhat relax cut? If not, what are others?

    Thanks - JD

    SD-102 is even more relaxed than the SD-101. There are many, many models by SDA that are based on the SD-101 cut, you won't find a shortage of them to choose from.

  3. yeah most Japanese brands didn't raise their prices for years. sda is the first to do so i think. others will follow sooner or later.

    dunno what cotton they use.

    IIRC, Flat Head was the first, they did it like a year ago. I think Oni also did it before SDA.

  4. Thanks kayodic! I'll have them hemmed this weekend. Would it be a good idea to leave them just a little long to take into account some future shrinkage or won't they shrink at all?

    I'd leave them a little bit long. Even sanforized denim shrinks a little bit in the wash.

  5. been thinking about picking up a 0201 but I am kinda concerned as to how pink the peach inseam is. Is it really noticably pink? Or does it blend in well? Are there any other models that use the same silhouette as the 0201 but without the pick inseam stiching?

    It is noticeably pink when the jeans are new. As others have said, it becomes less noticeable as the jeans fade. The pink is also supposed to fade to more of a peach color as the jeans wear, but personally, I haven't really seen this happen.

    All Momotaro's, with the exception of the 0705BiG and 0705NI feature the pink lined inseam. The two models mentioned that don't, both have been released by Blue In Green. First one features a burnt red inseam, to resemble the colour of a peach better, after the colour has faded, this by the words of Gordon from BiG himself. The latter is the Natural Indigo pair, which somehow has everything a man/woman could wish for in a pair of jeans, but misses key Momotaro features like the pink lined inseam and pink selvage outseam. It comes at a hefty price too...

    Anyway, Japan Blue/Collect also has another line, called Japan Blue x Momotaro, it features some existing cuts and some new ones. Some have signature Momotaro detailing, others not. You should really try a Google search on it, or take some time to read through the thread, since I'm not really familair with the Japan Blue x Momotaro collection.

    Anyway, all Momotaro's feature the pink lined inseam and pink selvage outseam. It is, like stated before, one of the details that is undoubtly Momotaro. And yeah, it stands out, surely when you got a brand new pair. But I won't call it disturbing. Most people won't even notice it, although it is really apparent... But I guess it's more apparent to the one wearing it, than the audience around you.

    Just wanted to add that the Context Grand Indigo collabs do not have the pink inseam stitching.

  6. this store also has the 18oz: http://global.rakute.../item/oni-0211/

    i have never ordered from them though, has anyone on here?

    i asked gordon about those and this pair a little while ago: http://global.rakute.../item/oni-0288/

    he said they will be getting the re-released 18oz (but didn't know when) and probably not the 20oz pair

    i would love to see someone wearing the updated shoai's too, i drool over the pictures on big at least once a week.

    The 20 oz. look real nice. That beige weft is a nice touch, too.

  7. True, but these also state that they are raw in their description, while we all know that the GTB line is one wash

    Momotaro "Going to Battle" 15.7oz "Tight Straight" Raw Selvedge Denim - Model 0705sp


    Also, Momotaro's are known for being partially sanforized, still the Vintage Label manages to shrink up to 2" in the length and comes with an inseam long enough to counter it. The Grand Indigo, while said being sanforized comes with an 35,5" which is exactly the same as the one wash models Momotaro offers. This makes me think that somewhat they are laundered, if not in seawater, but it's known that the so called sanforized/partially sanforzed models shrink a ton.

    Momotaro's Vintage Label line is completely unsanforized, I've emailed with Gordon about this before. There was a time when he thought it was partially sanforized, but he has since learned from Momotaro that they are completely unsanforized, and that's why you don't see any mention of partial sanforization anymore on any of the Momotaro Vintage Line models on the BiG site. The one exception to this is the 705 GTB model, that model is sanforized and one-washed. But the 201, 701, etc. are all unsanforized.

    Thanks for your opinion on this... Though I allready knew the ER models were from another line, so called Europe Label, which was made for customers overzeas. Apparently it wasn't a real succes, but I reckon this has to do with the fact that the real deal was/is fairly easy to obtain, surely if you are into denim.

    The concensus had been for a long period that Momotaro partially sanforized jeans, which is... When you think of it, complete bullshit. You either sanforize or not. Think this has to do with the "false" info on the flashers regarding the GTB and Copper Label models, which state they are sanforized, while they are one wash.

    Rubyblue, do you have an estimated guess on when the 0702 will be available? I'm intending on copping a pair when it gets released.

    Partial sanforization really exists, I have emailed Gordon about this before as well. As you all may know, sanforizing denim involves running it through hot rollers repeatedly to get it to shrink before it is cut and sewn into jeans. With partial sanforization, you either run it though the rollers at a lower temperature or you run it through for less time, or some combination of the two, than the standard for full sanforization.

  8. Hey guys,

    Don't know if you guys have visited the Tate + Yoko thread or website yet, but we picked up a few pairs of the D1546 along with a full run of the 103, 106, 601-00, 601-99 and a few tops. Drop me a line at [email protected] if you guys have any questions!

    All products can be seen here: LINK


    Just out of curiosity, why do you charge the same amount for the 601 models as you do for the 103 and 106? Don't they retail for about 5250 yen (almost $70) less in Japan, and aren't they considered a lower line than the 100 series?

  9. hey commodorewheeler, in addition to looking at the cut end of a belt loop (actually, a good indicator of indigo penetration), here is a quote from the Blue in green website describing the D-1507. "This model is woven with cotton yarns which have been hand dyed by legendary craftsmen in the Tokushima prefecture of Japan using natural indigo which was also harvested in Tokushima prefecture . The undyed cotton yarns are dipped by hand into indigo dye vats repeatedly until the indigo has penetrated the core of the yarns." The sda website also says the yarns were dipped into the indigo 30 times. I believe these are definitely ai dyed to the core.

    I emailed Gordon to try to get his insight on this information, and he wrote back saying that as far as he knows, the D1507/SP-013 denim is dyed to the core. Since I can no longer find where I read that the cores are white on that denim, I am going to assume that I remembered wrong.

  10. just received the SDA D-1507 from PSA. Great service and communication and fast shipping to USA - incredible jeans, thanks, Naoki. My respect for SDA continues to grow -17 oz Ai dyed to the core denim - wonderful! I have soaked them twice and still, there is starch all over the place. Not just sticky but slimey. Is this "business as usual" for raw SDA (not the case with my XXX-28 though) and how do I get rid of the strarch - repeated soaks or toss them in the machine with a little Sugar Cane soap? thanks

    I experienced this with the SP-013, which, to my knowledge, uses the same denim as the D1507. For me, it took 2 hot soaks and a machine wash (no detergent) to get rid of it.

    AFAIK, the D1507/SP-013 denim is not dyed to the core, I'm pretty sure I read on SDA's website at some point in the past that the warp threads have a white core. Also, if you look at Surrealizm's SP-013 evo pics scattered throughout this thread, you'll see that they fade like a denim with white warp thread cores, not so much like a hank-dyed indigo-to-the-core denim.

  11. ok, thanks man, I thought Ai dyed meant hank/hand dyed yarn with natural indigo vs rope dyed/machine dyed yarns twisted together into a rope even if with natural indigo. BIG lists the d-1507 as hand dyed to the core with natural indigo and they sure are priced like it. Somewhat confused to say the least! :(

    To my understanding, the D1507 uses the same denim as the SP-013, and back when the SP-013 was available for sale, I read on SDA's website that the warp threads were rope-dyed and dipped 30 times for that denim. The website also mentioned that the cores of the warp threads on that model are white.

    Also, if you've seen the evo pics of the SP-013 earlier in this thread, that denim fades like a rope-dyed denim, not a hank-dyed denim.

  12. hmm, that's what I was thinking too commodorewheeler, but looking at the D-1507 Limited Edition Ai (hank) dyed jeans, they have the blue circle too. Circle color does not seem to mean anything about hank vs rope or natural vs synthetic indigo.

    The D1507 is rope-dyed, not hank-dyed. It uses the same denim as the SP-013. AFAIK, the only SDAs that are hank-dyed are the XXX models.

  13. I have a pair of XXX-28 Ai - core dyed jeans and have recently bought a pair of D-1554 natural indigo- surface dyed jeans from PSA (which I am presently waiting for). The XXX-28 have the red circle and the D-1554 have the blue circle above the 5th pocket. I thought one color represented natural indigo dye and the other synthetic indigo dye yet both of these jeans are natural indigo dyed. Anyone shed some light on this?

    edit - possibly it is because Ai is hand dyed and even though natural indigo, the D-1554 is machine dyed?

    It must be that. Rope-dyed vs. hank-dyed.

  14. I wonder what the fit is like? Caliroots is all in centimeters, and I'm high and lazy.

    From what I've read, it fits like the SD-101.

    EDIT: Whoops, looks like I read the wrong SD-601 description (00 instead of 99). Now from what I am reading, it fits like the SD-103.

  15. I actually had size 32 Fullcounts and these are 33 so hopefully it'll be fine :) Will post pictures when I get them this week!

    You should be fine. I wear 33 in Fullcount and 34 in the 710. The 710, even sized up 1, is definitely tighter, but it works.

  16. It really doesnt. Check out the pure blue Japan's that did the same thing and they all still faded the same. When i first got my Earth's I sand papered my hem cut offs and it all still went to white
    must be that the weft yarns aren't dyed to the core so the color fades away just like the indigo although I have to say that IMO the Element models fade somewhat dull, less contrasty.

    I think it's because from the outside of the jeans, you only really see the warp threads, and those have white cores. The weft peeks through when the jeans are new, but as the jeans wear and the warp threads start to fray a little, the gaps between warp thread bundles gets smaller, and it gets harder to see the weft.

    You only start to see the weft from the outside more as warp threads start breaking.

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