Graytrain

Sorry for the odd ordering.

I finally found an Orrizonti era WWII pair. Denim has a completely different weight and feel from 66 and XX. Curious what you know of this pair BF. Awesome details, wonky pocket shape with my dream of a shorter rise to round out a perfect-for-me 40s fit. 

And yes there is a bit of aging on the denim from sun and rubbing on creases. 

Look amazing Julian. It's true on the stitching, some pairs stand up quite well (year of wear with no breakage) while others need constant attention. It had been so long since I had earnestly worn a cotton threaded pair, I had forgotten what it was like. Like a daily conversation to check in how they are feeling. 

Damn Julian. I had been eyeing those. They are awesome. Hoping to find a newish pair of the hair-on-hides some day

5 hours ago, Bobbo said:

Congrats! This is my grail, so damn jelous. Fits you so well too.

Thanks Bobbo!

4 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

Perfect fits all around. Would love to find one of those jackets in my size in good condition

Thanks Julian! They do pop up often but it has been pretty rare to find them in newish condition. 

And for the full WWII detailed no patch M series fit. Both the same denim from the same era. Absolutely killer. Love the denim, light weight, oxidized blue and gray caste. Love the fits on both. Straight top block, no taper. Jacket is short and boxy. Perfection. 

Here is an oddity that I had to pick up. A pair of no patch M41030 but tagged as a M43030. I cannot find any info anywhere on M43030 so it is either a misprint or some lost version. I can't find any discrepancies between the other pairs I have besides the center most coinpocket stitching going up to the waistband. They also fill the gap I wanted in a pair in my size. 

Doing my best to save the patch but it's wanting to shrivel into nothing

Thr embroidery and textures are wild. 

I finally found a grail piece that I had wanted since early days in this space, 2007ish I think. I saw this somewhere and screenshotted it and it was an intermitted but constant search from that day onward. 

With my favorite wonky back pocket. The pocket bags need a bit of love though.  

A very overdue update on the S40s contest pair. The color is most accurate on the close up texture shot. Very gray. 

These have quickly become my favorite denim jackets. Their early white line denim, shared with the M41030, is light and has this amazing vintage crinkle with gray caste. I love it. 

This one however doesn't have a red tab and has some odd black stitching on certain seams. 

I've picked up some amazing no patch S506s. They are a bit different from each other but I have to say they are my favorite type 1 fit. Ignoring the common style choices of today's repros. It's short. Utterly boxy. 

There are so many oddities in the early Sugar Cane pieces. I have several I have to give updates on but I spotted this one in particular that caught my attention an M43030 tag that looks like an M41030. And I cannot find anything on these

1 hour ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

You often find worn pairs but also some deadstock pairs were available recently.

well damn. I must have missed that. I try to be as neurotic as possible with buyee but I sometimes miss a day or a week here or there. 

@beautiful_FrEaK Thank you! That is exactly the input I wanted. I have been on the lookout for sometime but for every 20 newish pairs of XX that come up (rare enough as it is) there's maybe 1 pair of WWII. 

So perfect @beautiful_FrEaK! I have a backlog of many Denime updates to share. Including an Orizzonti S506 that looks to be pretty new on its way to me now. 

Question, what info do you know about WWII editions back in the Orizzonti era? I have only seen a couple pop up here and there but rarely with enough pictures to understand the details. Are they just an XX with laurel leafs, olive bags an no coin pocket rivets or is it a different fit, pocket shape, etc? 

Well this is a question that is forever in loop in my mind. I have had love affairs with so many denims for so many reasons. Far fewer jeans (defined as the combination of not just denim but the construction, details, and fit) have I had love affairs with. I will always be searching for the “grail*” jean that hits all the points.

*in the ephemeral concept of unobtainable, but worthy goal of lifelong pursuit.

This is more info than is asked for but you gave me an itch with this question that I need to scratch.

Flathead Pioneer denim was my first Japanese denim. The blueberry fades are unlike anything I have ever seen. The vertical falling is just incredible. The texture and contrast are just a sight to behold. BUT I do not like that level of contrast on my body and fits. Looks a bit too much zoomed out from just appreciating the fabric.

Stevenson has the most amazing construction of all. The attention to detail, accuracy, and execution of single stitch is beyond what others do. Their denim has an amazing green cast with fades that make you work for them. Their fits are unbearable though.

Full Count in general has the most comfy denim around. And in my ethos of jean wearing, where I want to live in the jean, this makes the jean effortless. The fades of both the standard and the XX have the perfect amount of texture, pace of fade, to give everything you can ask for out of a jean, with a fit that is what I like for my body style (40s-50s with a low rise for my ever prominent muffin top).

Sugar Cane denim in general is under-praised.

The new age (last 10 years) ’47 denim is a quiet champion of vintage fades. Spectacular crinkle and marble, texture and irregularity, with a slow pace that gives a vintage, lower contrast but still high texture result. Phenomenal jean on all accounts.

I have several Mister Freedom pieces that use Okinawa and Edo ai and they are up there with the most amazing to witness denims. Textures and colors, fascinating to watch age and color but a bit much to wear.

Warehouse denim is the king of all, texturally. I have worn through several types, banner, old blues, newer 800s, with a variety of wash strategies (hot, hot&drier, cold only) and get magnificent results that I love to examine. But much like the pioneer denim, I love it all primarily for the material, not the way it looks on me. Fits are always okay, details are okay-to-good, just sometimes unexciting.

I have also tried so many more that aren’t worth expressing again: Cone, Orslow, Studio D’artisan, TCB, Evis No.2, and No.1.

But the ones that have totally stolen my attention:

Denime XX. It took me a long time to come around to Denime. They just seemed uninteresting coming from a world of forever iterating new-wave Japanese brands. But I started to take an interest in the Old Osaka 5 (hence the Evis ref), and I came to finding some Orizzonti era Denime. Not only is the fit spot on for my likes but the denim gives me just enough of everything I have loved from Pioneer denim blues and ease of fade, a dash of Warehouse crinkles with the vintagey-ness of sugar cane. I haven’t faded a pair all the way out yet but as a “jean” this might be it.

So my top spot would be Denime WWII - Orizzonti era. As I love WWII details and silhouettes, this would likely be my end-all.

Sugar Cane M-series denims. Perhaps an unlikely choice, but in exploring old-era Japanese jeans, the early 90s, no patch Sugar Cane jeans blew me away with their denim. Some of it on the lighter side, the texture, crinkle and gray caste give such an amazing vintage look. Being lighter is refreshing coming from the heavier weights that are standard in new era. The fits are unlike anything else and ignore common wants for tapers. I am forever on the lookout for a M41001 with laurel leaf buttons and Levi-esque archs in a good size that would give that straight-through-the-hips and stovepipe leg look.

The same goes for their jackets (although I know this isn't about that). Their WWII S506XX from that era, (of which I have like 4 of…) fades so well, wears so lightly, and has the short, blocky fit that is hard to find nowadays. Perfect, no-nonsense jeans and repros. That is what I am finding my heart leans towards these days.

But even at the end of the day, I will always come back to a pair of Full Count 13.7ozers when I am not wearing a jean for a purpose other than to wear a trusted sidekick for yardwork, hardwork, kicking around or otherwise laziness in outfit choice. So what does that say about that jean?

Sadly the patch isn't going to make it. Jerky would be a kind description. 

Perhaps THE item that got me interested in "historical" Japan repro was this jacket. I have been looking for one ever since. My second hand grail for many years. The bullshipper 10th anni 2001