gazeboarder

I love the overdyed warp denim from PBJ.  I've been wearing a jean made in this denim for a while and it fades really nice overtime.  

5 hours ago, -KapitalSteez- said:

What does everyone think of the new SDA x Denimio collab? 

Tossing up between the kakishibu one and the upcoming PBJ x Okayama 

https://www.denimio.com/dm004kakishibu-denimio-x-sda-collab-kakishibu-model-kakishibu.html

I think the thigh measurements on the Denimio collab looks too big.  You can kind of see this in the photos.  The coin pocket detail is a little different.  I would normally expect the PBJ to have more slub.

I love my Iron Heart IH-555-03's in the SBG denim.  These look awesome as they break in over time.  I think this is a cut that is often overlooked but fits really well in larger waist sizes.  I wear a 36.

19 hours ago, Broark said:

@gazeboarder I’ve only worn them the last day or two but so far I find the pretty comfortable. I usually have an issue with a lot of sneakers because they aren’t wide enough in the toe but these are definitely wide enough for my feet. What issue do you have in the heel, too narrow?

For me the heel has been too loose which then has created some abrasion on my heel.  If I put a footbed in with more arch support and lace the sneaker tight in the middle I can get the movement to stop so they can still work.

On 2/9/2018 at 5:53 PM, Broark said:

First day wearing the Kiefers, super comfy.
Going to hold off on the ivory pair for now, I think I'll get them too dirty too quickly. But I might scoop them up soon. We'll see.

Hey Broark - How do the Visvim Kiefer's fit in the heel area for you?  I ask because I have the same pair in the mustard color way and feel the fit in the heel is a little funky.  If I wear these with a better footbed the fit improves.  I have the same problem with the Visvim Skagways.

I feel most of the Flat Head shirts have a weird fit with really wide shoulders and then a tight chest measurement and a tight bottom opening.  In almost every picture you can see how the shoulders tend to be too wide.  With that said I have two flannel work shirts that fit okay but neither fit as good as any of my Iron heart shirts.  The fabrics are amazing but I just wish the fits were better.  I'm not sure of this but maybe wide shoulders with a tight chest is a good fit for the average Japanese customer.  I'm 6'3" 200 lbs so I understand I'm not the target Flat Head customer.  With that said the shoulder measurements on both of my size 46 shirts are a little too wide for my liking.  I also have a UES Indigo Flannel shirt and a Nine Lives shirt that I feel fits better than the Flat Head shirts.  Do others feel the same way?

Hi Kiya any plans to do a collab jean with Pure Blue Japan in the future?  Sorry if this was already asked.

Hey Everyone FYI,

I recently bought a pair of the UTE Moc Trainer-Folk's in size 11(my normal shoe size).  I love the look of these but the fit is super narrow.  I have a narrower foot shape and these are going to take some time to stretch.  With that said, I sort of wonder why Visvim is making their footwear so narrow.  I work in footwear and my company offers some of our boot models in an Asian fit which consists of a wider forefoot and a slightly taller instep.  These UTE Moc's would be unbearable for that type of foot shape.  If you have an extremely narrow foot shape I would say these could be great.  If you have an average width foot I recommend going up a 1/2 size.

I'm about 6'3" 205 lbs and normally wear Iron Heart shirts in size XXL and some in XXXL.  I have two PBJ shirts in size 5 and one in size 6.  The size 6 shirt is a little big.  I think I need a 5.5.  I feel their size grading from 5 to 6 jumps too much.

I tried on the PBJ 6077 Hand Dyed Natural Indigo Jacket in size 5 at BIG last week.  I was wearing a t-shirt and a button up Iron Heart chambray shirt under the jacket and felt the fit was good.  I then tried on the 6066 deep indigo jacket in size 6 and that jacket was too big.  The shoulders looked really wide.  I hope this helps.

Okay don't tell my wife (updated).  I also listed the great shops that I bought this denim at.  Iron Heart is the leading brand with 9 pairs.  Self Edge taking most of my money with 10 pairs.

Here's the list

Studio Dartisan X's-37 Dirt Blue (these have a great fit) (Okayama Denim)

Oni Denim Oni-527ZR (BIG)

Oni Denim Oni-527OR (green) (Rodeo Bros Japan)

Iron Heart 9301 (Self Edge)

Iron Heart 7301 (Self Edge)

Iron Heart 301 (Self Edge)

Iron Heart 301S-14 (14oz) (Self Edge)

Iron Heart SEXIH07BK (Self Edge)

Iron Heart 555-01 (one of the best fitting jeans for me) (Iron Heart UK)

Iron Heart 555-03 (Iron Heart UK)

Iron Heart 666-UHR (Self Edge)

Iron Heart 666-LB (one of my favorites, changed the leg opening to 8.0) (Iron Heart UK)

Strike Gold 2109 (Self Edge)

Strike Gold 3109 (Klax-on Japan)

Pure Blue Japan XX-005 (BIG)

Pure Blue Japan XX-017 (BIG)

Pure Blue Japan XX-014 (Okayama Denim)

Pure Blue Japan AI-003 (love these) (Okayama Denim)

Samurai S710BK Black Shadow (BIG)

Samurai S710XX 15oz 2ND (2ND collab jean )

Samurai S710XX 19oz (Americaya)

Samurai S001JP (2nd Japan)

The Flat Head SE05BSP (Self Edge)

Fullcount B2014 (Bears Collab jean) (Bears Japan)

Stevenson Overall C0 727R (Self Edge)

Ande Whall Slackers (AW)

Ande Whall SR09 Caribou (AW)

Momotaro ER007-2B (Tate and Yoko)

Momotaro BOM010-N (Blue Owl Workshop Collab) (BOW)

Japan Blue ODJB 001 (Okayama Denim)

Japan Blue JBO412 (Okayama Denim)

Japan Blue JBCD0463 (Okayama Denim)

Japan Blue JBO-412 (BOW)

3 Sixteen ST210 (Self Edge)

Sugarcane Slack Denim SC40601 (Hinoya)

Somet 018BK (BIG)

Steel Feather SF0215 (Rivet and Hide)

Indigofera Ray SLV Black (Rivet and Hide)

Hopefully Okayama Denim will carry these.  I have a bunch of points I haven't used.

Why would you wash your jeans in water that hot?  90C = 192F  That's crazy hot.  Were you trying to get them to shrink a large amount?

The measurement specs on this new fit looks great for my size (36).  The denim description sounds a little similar to the PBJ KS denim.  "knubbed" selvedge. It is a super irregular weave that results in a highly textured denim that fades with striking contrast. 

5 hours ago, ShootThePier said:

When I say PBJ will have a smaller presence outside of Japan, it has nothing to do with their denim. I'm speculating that this new int'l pricing is a reflection of not knowing how to navigate a global market and grow brand awareness at the same time. In business, if you're not growing your market share, it is actually shrinking. Market share never stays in one place, because it is influenced by many factors outside of one businesses control.

I'd be curious to know if BIG was the director of this change. I know BIG seems to be carrying a whole lot less denim in all brands. I even read somewhere that they were moving in a different direction.

If you think about it BIG was the first brand in the USA to carry PBJ.  They also helped with some of the more modern cuts.  Move forward in time and several other shops started selling the brand including OD, R&H and Blue Owl.  The one difference was OD was selling the brand at Japan local prices.  I would not be surprised if BIG got a little concerned about this.

4 hours ago, Danny @ Rivet & Hide said:

Good point and I should add that some latest fits in jeans and shirts did not come out of thin air. They came from constant feedback from western retailers. the x019 and new fit shirts would otherwise not exist. PBJ now does size 6 in shirts. UES developed larger flannels based on my feedback. I trialled samples for them which they sell directly online and I make no complain about. As I mentioned in my previous post I had no knowledge of this development with OD but I will say that Japanese brands' success with western consumers is often dependent on the relationship they meticulously nurture with their retailers. 

This is a great point.  I've recently bought a few items from PBJ in their new larger sizes which is awesome.  Before they came out with the size 6 I would not even consider most of their tops.  The new indigo dyed sweatshirts are great.  I also picked up a size 5 UES shirt while I was in Japan.  The fit is awesome.  So, Danny thanks for provide feedback to UES on their flannels.

9 hours ago, mrman said:

I've made 2 purchases from OD and neither were 'caught' by customs as the value had been marked low enough. Without customs charges they are now on par with RH, with customs much higher obviously.

That's cool and you get triple points which will add up to a nice discount on future purchases.

I personally think this whole thing will blow over in a few months.  If you think the prices are too high don't buy anything or try using a proxy.  I will still buy from them just as I will still buy Iron Heart stuff which is similarly priced.  For my sizing I can only buy Iron Heart stuff from either IH-UK, Self Edge or R&H.  The fixed pricing is pretty much the same at all three.

I'm a loyal OD customer and think it sucks that they have to raise their PBJ prices but at the same time I'm glad they are not dropping the brand.  I own several PBJ item and the look, feel and quality is great in my opinion.  For me with all things equal (online pricing being the same between UK shops, NYC shops, Seattle shops, etc.) the triple points that OD will offer will make a difference.

The Visvim Huron moc-folk hi-tops look pretty nice to me.

7 hours ago, cool_hand said:

From 7th March Okayama Denim is increasing the price of PBJ (on average) by 35%!!

Insane.

If there's something you're considering I would grab it now.

I think it's cool that Okayama Denim is giving you triple points when you buy PBJ stuff under the new PBJ international pricing.  Has anyone purchased the new 22oz denim yet?

9 hours ago, TheIntelligentHoodwinker said:

Was thinking I might do that. Although seems a shame to take a seam ripper to a new pair of £250 jeans. I like the models with the navy blue arcs though as they're a little more discrete.

I think the tonal arcs look great.  I feel the IH-555 cut is very underrated.  I own the IH-555-01 and the IH-555-03's and find these some of my best slim fitting jeans.  I wear a size 36.  I'm 6'3"and weigh about 205 lbs.

How do you guys think the new Hank-Dyed Heavyweight Tokusima jean compares to the Pure Blue Japan AI-003 jeans.  I notice both are around 18oz.

Hi Kiya,

What is the latest on the Iron Heart 633 over-dyed jeans I saw mentioned on Instagram?  Will they be going on your website soon?

2 hours ago, The Chad said:

If I were to purchase another pair of PBJ jeans what would be the general consensus. No more than $300

If you want a pair that looks like a streaky pair of hand dyed jeans then I would go for the KS-013's.  The KS-013 looks awesome in person with a lot of character.  I

Niro the shirt looks awesome.

10 hours ago, lance said:

Well, the knee of the D1728 14 inches from the crotch measures 9.6 inches raw, likely 9.2/9.3 inches post soak. These dimensions are very similar to Kiya's collab with Dry Bones. Damn, still leaves me undecided; great cotton, iffy fit. Foxy2, how do you like the fit and comfort of the 37T?

I have the X's 37 Dirt Blue Christmas Edition jeans in a size 36 and the fit is great.  The details on this jean are awesome.  I bought mine from Okayama Denim.  As a reference I'm 6'3" 205 lbs.  My favorite fitting jeans would probably be my Iron Heart - 555-01's  (size 36) but these SDA's are very nice.