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Posts posted by Danny @ Rivet & Hide
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This spring UES Denim has released the Akiha Indigo Yarn-Dyed Selvedge Work Shirt. A tonal indigo stripe is subtly woven into the lightweight fabric. It has been rinsed once so will not shrink. The shirt uses Corozo buttons, has selvedge side gussets and placket and features triple-stitched seams.
The Ramayana T shirts launched last year have been restocked in black and white and a new grey version has been introduced for 2017. The shirts are made from the luxurious Suvin cotton, grown in southern India, prized for its long staple and remarkable softness. The fit is so on point. Tried and tested (washed multiple times) for a year I can vouch that this is one of the best T shirts you will ever buy.
Shop UES Akiha Indigo Yarn-Dyed Selvedge Work Shirt
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12 hours ago, JDelage said:
Did you ever consider their Commander chino? Or is it too wide a cut for you?
There is always so much to choose from Stevenson Overall. If budget and space were no obstacle we'd buy the full collection. We are heading out to see SOC in May and will be considering chinos in the FW17 line-up.
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Stevenson Overall Co. releases two great jackets this spring - The Slinger in a custom woven Indigo Selvedge Canvas and the sublimely cut Deputy Jacket in Heather Indigo.
The custom Slinger duck canvas is both rich in colour and texture with both warp and weft yarns rope-dyed indigo and destined to break in with tremendous high contrast over time.The jacket has acorn shaped riveted front pockets and V shaped pleats reinforced with copper rivets on both back and front. Additionally, the jacket features a cinch-back inserted and sewn within the pleats. The pocket flaps have a curved stitch design with a green line selvedge accent. Washed once there will be no shrinkage.Shop Stevenson Overall Slinger Jacket - Indigo Selvedge Canvas
The Heather Indigo Deputy Jacket again uses a custom woven selvedge twill fabric with indigo warp and grey weft. This is a slim fitting ranch jacket and comes with real suede piping on the front and back yokes. The collar and cuffs are lined with corduroy. This is such an elegant jacket and in this indigo iteration we can't wait to see how well this one is going to age.
Shop Stevenson Overall Co. Deputy Jacket - Heather Indigo
We have also restocked Stevenson jeans (Dixon 310, 737 Ventura & 727 La Jolla) Hilts chinos in khaki and navy and the Cody denim shirt.
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3 hours ago, Geeman said:
Nice one, interested to see them. Any info on the 17oz denim?
It has a grey weft like the x011. It's closer to the x011 in slub and texture than the 2015 24 oz. At 17 oz. it's a very accessible denim for most people too.
I'm looking forward to seeing the real deal once it arrives as hitherto just seen samples.
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On 4/22/2017 at 3:13 PM, Geeman said:
@Danny @ Rivet & Hide you mentioned a new version of the PBJ X011 coming in 17 oz and a touch more taper. Is that still expected?
We are expecting these jeans late May early June. We developed this as a collaboration but then decided mutually with PBJ to put them on general release. There is more of a taper.
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As well as a full restock of Skivvy and Stanley T shirts by Mister Freedom we have added the Fletcher shirt in white. This basically the long sleeve version of the Stanley T shirt.
3sixteen short sleeve Henleys are available in indigo, black and white. They are made from the same 9 oz. Canadian jersey knit fabric of the popular twin pack T shirts.
Shop 3sixteen Henleys and T shirts
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Mister Freedom Liquette Tzigane is a standout piece from the SS17 Gypsy Collection. There is a nod to the French shirting of ‘30s bohemians and good dose of Romany gypsy styling. The shirt is made from a tightly woven 4 oz. printed 100% cotton poplin and has ruched cuffs and back yoke. The shirt also features early-type arrowhead side gussets, chain stitch run-offs, original MFSC chest flap single pocket and open single pocket plus an original MFSC Gypsy Blues woven rayon label.
Shop Mister Freedom Liquette Tzigane Shirt
Lot 674 jeans from Mister Freedom uses the 50% cotton/50% sugar cane fibre denim from Lot 64 and combines it with the top block fit and back pockets of Lot 64 and slimmer legs of Lot 74. It is in our opinion the best fit yet from Mister Freedom and the Okinawa denim is an unquestionably great fabric.
Shop Mister Freedom Lot 674 "Okinawa" Jeans
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21 hours ago, spitfiredealer said:
My 400T are being worn again for manual work.
Love this cut so much, @Danny @ Rivet & Hide any progress on a collaboration with them in some heavier denim?
No but I'll be seeing UES next month in Japan and will discuss it again with them.
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Shop Rogue Territory Neppy Denim Work Shirt
The new 15.25 oz proprietary Japanese selvedge denim is available in the two main RGT jeans fits - the slim straight Stanton and super slim SK. They have all the classic RGT details including lasso stitch to rear pocket, hidden pen pocket, single needle continuous stitched waistband and hand branded leather patch. A thoroughly modern jean made with thoroughly old school quality and attention to detail.
Add to that full restocks of the stealth/black 15 o.z Supply jacket and 12.5 oz. tinted weft SK’s and you have a real treat of a drop.Shop Rogue Territory SK 15 oz. Japanese Selvedge Jeans
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Our first major spring drop this year comes from the LA brand going from strength to strength - Rogue Territory. We introduced this brand to the UK a year ago and these new season offerings are further reinforcement of what a good decision this was.
The much anticipated Pine Ranger jacket comes in a 10 oz. water repellent American canvas. Taking its inspiration from the classic Barracuta G9, the silhouette is trim and sharp. Gusseted shoulders add a unique and welcome touch to this type of jacket, providing both comfort and style. Welted pockets (two hand-warmers, one chest outside, one chest inside) keep the lines clean.
Shop Rogue Territory Pine Canvas Ranger Jacket
For a denim option, we have the Supply Jacket – Rogue Territory's updated take on the classic denim jacket. Constructed from a new proprietary (custom-woven) Japanese sanforized denim which has a ring spun yarn and is pure indigo dyed. It also has a unique indigo selvedge line. This gives the fabric a great fade potential due to the vertical slubby nature of the weave.
Shop Rogue Territory Proprietary 15 oz Supply Jacket
We offer two shirts from the SS17 line-up. The ISC work shirt is a custom made, 11 oz. rope-dyed Indigo Selvedge Canvas. Pure indigo across both warp and weft, this intensely textured material has a real depth of colour and character. The fading from this fabric never disappoints.
The Neppy Denim Work Shirt uses a 9 oz. yellow line selvedge from the renowned Nihon Menpu mill in Japan. The 2x1 weave displays clear ‘nep’ – undyed cotton tufts poking through the material – which gives it its individuality.0 -
The Railcar Fine Goods Explorer is one stylish double black denim jacket combining vintage details with an ultra modern slim silhouette. The hallmarks of Steven Dang, engineer turned jeansmaker (Steven used to fix the railcars on LA's Pasadena Line) are all over the jacket with strong triple flat-felled chain stitched seams throughout the interior with no exposed edges. Hand-set custom copper rivets strengthen and add style to the front panel pleats and there is a single utility pocket on the left hand side. The jacket is made from a 13 oz. Japanese selvedge denim.
Shop Railcar Black Explorer Jacket
Railcar also makes great jeans for our female customers. The Vixen is a new skinny fit and the x037 uses a 13.5 oz. selvedge denim with some stretch for comfort. The denim softens up nicely with little wear and will break in yielding natural fades and contrast marks.
This medium-rise skinny fit is constructed to minimize any gaping at the lower back and like any raw jeans the fit will develop over the first 20 wears. Construction details include double flat felled back and inseam, custom hand-set copper hardware, hand-branded leather patch, and a traditional chain stitch hem.
(We shall put up fit photos in the coming weeks. In the meantime please refer to our sizing guide)1 -
We just received the first drop from 3sixteen's Summer' 17 lineup with two lightweight and remarkably soft shirts getting us prepped for the warmer months ahead.
First off is the Navy Waffle Knit Work Shirt. The fabric is loomed in Japan and as the name suggests has plenty of texture. This shirt features the 3sixteen trademark crosscut back yoke and also has enamel coated buttons designed to chip and age with wear.
Next up is the Faded Blue Utility Work Shirt. This lightweight Japanese flannel has a sun-faded worn-in texture, is super soft and will be easy to wear on a hot day. The horn buttons have been burnt for both colour and texture.Shop 3sixteen Navy Waffle Knit Work Shirt
Shop 3sixteen Faded Blue Plaid Utility Work Shirt
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By the way the xx-22oz-013 arrives next week and a month later the x011 in a new 17 oz weight. Both come in the modified slim tapered fit with a smidgen extra thigh space and narrower leg opening. These jeans and fit modifications have been part of over a year's discussion between me and PBJ (and possibly other retailers) on costly trips to Japan, Berlin and Paris. The 17 oz. x011 was my idea and was going to be a collaboration. Minimums with PBJ on collabs are prohibitively high, exacerbated by the strong Yen (and woefully weak GBP). Rather than keep it on hold until I was in a position to commit I suggested to PBJ they make it a general release for all retailers (including Japanese ones) and that i would buy what I need.
It is worth pointing out the scale of not only fabric production but also legendary indigo-dyeing techniques by PBJ. They still manage to deliver this at a lower price point than other Japanese brands we carry in store. I do not see them disappearing from the denim market place any time soon. Customers literally drool over what they make it is so good.
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37 minutes ago, ColonelAngus said:
the key difference, imho, is that PBJ's sizing isn't cut for western builds the way that IH is. I think PBJ has started to change that recently by incorporating xxl sizes into their lineup but their denim is another story. Even when PBJ's denim was lower through OD/Denimio I avoided trying them because the thighs/knees/hem were oddly proportioned to my eyes. Either the thigh/knees were too small or the hem was too wide, so for that reason I thought they were a risky proposition even if you were only spending $250. I have the deep indigo type 2 and the houndstooth type 2 and luckily both fit, but they're boxy around the shoulders and the cuffs are huge. But I really dig both jackets so I plan on holding onto them. I think IH excels at nailing down fits/fabrics and this is where they have everyone beat,
Good point and I should add that some latest fits in jeans and shirts did not come out of thin air. They came from constant feedback from western retailers. the x019 and new fit shirts would otherwise not exist. PBJ now does size 6 in shirts. UES developed larger flannels based on my feedback. I trialled samples for them which they sell directly online and I make no complain about. As I mentioned in my previous post I had no knowledge of this development with OD but I will say that Japanese brands' success with western consumers is often dependent on the relationship they meticulously nurture with their retailers.
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We have restocked our core Viberg Boots styles; Boondocker leather sole, Boondocker Dainite sole, Colour 8 Service Boots and Black Chromexcel Engineer boots.
We have also launched a new build: The Engineer Boot in colour 8 CXL leather. The boot is made on the 2005 last, has a Vibram sole and Cat's Paw heel as well as a stitch down construction. This waxy Horween leather really does look so good with wear. We cannot wait to see a pair of these Engineers the same condition as Junior's service boots in the same leather after a couple of years' wear (image below)
We also restocked our custom slim tapered fit with Dawson Denim. The jeans are made here in the UK using a 14.25 oz sanforized japanese red-line selvedge denim.
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5 hours ago, cool_hand said:
Danny, I appreciate the points that you make. Just so it's clear when I said "whacking prices up 35% to 40% was the solution" I wasn't referring to Rivet and Hide "whacking up prices" I was referring to OD being forced by PBJ to increase their prices by 35% to 40%. But I can see the way it was written wasn't clear and it could of easily be interpreted differently to what I was trying to express.
Please also note all of the PBJ items that I've purchased from OD are not carried by your store; which is another issue I wanted to bring up.
I don't see any contradiction in my post though.
Ok. Got you on the whacking up bit. But you do admit that in VAT/duties alone there is an added 30% cost but say you'd be happy to buy from a UK store if the price difference were 10-15%.
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On 3/7/2017 at 1:07 PM, cool_hand said:
PBJ can do whatever they want but they don't take into consideration the following:
Post-Brexit the UK pounds sterling (£) devalued by around 15 to 20% against the US dollar ($) and other currencies which add significantly to the cost of importing from the US or Japan.
We pay import duties on anything purchased from outside of the Eurozone - VAT/duties and handling charges add around 30% to the cost + we also have to pay for shipping. Yes, there are ways of avoiding some of these costs but they are not guaranteed. We also don't have the rights to return the item for the refund if purchasing outside of the EU or the opportunity to go and try the item on in a bricks and mortar store, we take A LOT of risk when buying from overseas - quite often losing money when that garment doesn't work out.
The stores that have been complaining to PBJ about being undercut- what evidence do they have? Why don't they trim their profit margins slightly and be competitive? This looks like price fixing and not capitalism. If the difference in price between buying in the UK or buying from the overseas was marginal (10 to 15%) I'd be very happy to buy from a UK store. But instead they think whacking prices up 35 to 40% is the solution. It's just plain dumb business practice. There's plenty of choice out there and I'll be voting with my wallet. I do feel bad for Melv, he's a good guy.
I have stayed out of this debate because this development was as much as a surprise to me as it was to anyone else. I for one have never made any protests to PBJ over OD and its price structure. Objectively, I can see many sides of the arguments that have been eloquently posited here but see a contradiction in your post.
You admit that the cost of importing runs at around 30% but then expect the price difference between Japanese retail and UK retail to be 10-15 % which implies we need to absorb to cost of importing and work on much lower margins than the likes of OD.
Import costs are just one of the aspects. Operating a store with staff in Central London is punishingly expensive. Business rates, just one example, are already high and are set to double from April. Few countries have a higher VAT rate than the UK so 20% of any sale in the EU goes to the taxman. I would never "whack" up prices but faced with a depreciating currency and rising costs have had to implement some to protect the viability of the store.
I recently heard a pro-Brexit government minister tell retailers they need to absorb these higher costs and not pass them on to their customers. I have written to him and offered him a day's work experience at the store in Windmill Street so he can look at the books and see how fucking hard it is to run an independent store in London selling seriously good shit in the current climate.
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Pure Blue Japan has opened up its range to a wider audience with the introduction of the x019 fit. This is described as a ‘relaxed taper’, offering a higher rise, a little more room through the top block, roomier thigh and a reasonable taper. This first iteration is a slubby/neppy 13.8 oz. denim full of Pure Blue Japan's signature texture & character. We have also had a full restock of the always popular x013 in their signature 14 oz. slubby denim, slim tapered fit.
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Nine Lives continues to astound and delight with their fabric, fit, cut and construction. The Jacquard Check Raglan Shirt is constructed using 5 different colours within the weave. The pattern detail is almost fractal, in that the closer you examine it the more the intricacy is revealed. Particular attention has been paid to the seams and structure of the shoulder, resulting in a superlative fit. Available in wine and russet colourways, these slim fitting shirts – like all Nine Lives offerings – really need to be seen to be believed.
Shop Nine Lives Jacquard Check Shirt - Wine
Shop Nine Lives Jacquard Check Shirt - Russet
Keeping us warm and helping us layer, Nine Lives also brings us the Tsuriurake Loopwheeled Sweater. Raglan sleeved (no shoulder seams) this piece has been created in Wakayama on a hanging loopwheel machine. In a break from the norm, Nine Lives have then reconstructed the sides, cutting and adding side seams in order to create a more fitted silhouette than is available from an unaltered loopwheel construction. Super soft, thick, warm, smart & comfortable. Tsuriurake refers to the hanging loopwheeler used with great skill in the Wakayama region of Japan.
Shop Nine Loves Tsuriurake Loopwheel Sweater - Black/Navy
Shop Nine Lives Tsuriurake Loopwheeled Sweater - off-white/grey
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Following the official release on Friday, the much awaited 3sixteen Ranch Jacket has landed in store. Slim fitting with extra length through the body this jacket has Iron buttons, copper rivets, 1 chest pocket and two handwarmer pockets which also double as extra inside pockets. Comes in two styles: either a 12 oz. indigo heavily nepped fabric for a classic fade or in 3sixteens inimitable 14.5oz shadow selvedge for a unique, high contrast fade potential.
Shop 3sixteen Indigo Nep Denim Ranch Jacket
Shop 3sixteen Sahdow Selvedge Denim Ranch Jacket
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38 minutes ago, Geeman said:
Any news on the 3sixteen shadow jacket restock?
Next week or week after
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Indigofera has now released the ‘Acoma’ jacket. 100% waxed cotton canvas and blanket lined, this jacket demonstrates real versatility for the elements and locations, whether town or country. All edges are trimmed with a brown corduroy both outside and inside: collar, hem, cuffs, placket and pockets (two angled outer and two inner). The jacket is finished with heavy duty snap logo buttons on the placket and two buttons to the cuff and reinforced pockets with logo rivets at each outer corner. The cut is straight fitting but not too loose. The back is designed slightly longer than the front and curved to offer that extra protection as you would expect from a jacket with this function.
We have a new boot in from Last & Loom THE BOOT. TYPE 2. Constructed using Cowhide from the North island of New Zealand, Last & Loom utilises a brass screw wire machine dating back to the 1800’s to screw the upper, mid and insole together to deliver a super strong boot that’s built to last. This model comes in a black, full grain, chrome tanned leather, with solid brass eyelets and a half bellow tongue.
Shop Last & Loom Type 2 Boots - Black Cowhide
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Iron Heart, as always, have the answer for your denim jacket requirements in the from their updated 19 oz. Left-Hand Twill Selvedge Denim Type III. The jacket is unsanforized, full of character with deep tones of indigo. It has been one washed to remove the majority of shrinkage. It has the Iron Heart red selvedge placket, branded buttons and the ever-welcome hand warmer pockets (proper, deep ones too) that double up as two extra inside pockets. If you are looking for a heavyweight denim jacket with legendary fades – your search is over.
Shop Iron Heart 19 oz. Type 3 Left Hand Twill Trucker Jacket
Berry on The Drums again shows its mastery of the softest imaginable next to skin layers. New in is the raglan sleeve navy/white baseball shirt. 100% Zurich made on 1960’s tubular knit machines (no side seams, no loss of shape) using sustainable cotton from Tanzania. All sizes of the Henleys have also been restocked in black, navy & off white.
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2 hours ago, Geeman said:
Let me know as soon as they land mate. Sizing the same as the last run?
Will do. Yes sizing will be the same.
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RIVET & HIDE, London. Info etc...
in superdenim
Posted · Edited by Danny @ Rivet & Hide
We just received two stunning jackets from The Flat Head that tells us all we need to know about what makes this brand's pulse beat: an unremitting commitment to the highest levels of craftsmanship and fabric design.
The Horsehide Rider's Jacket is made from leather custom made by the esteemed Shinki tannery in Japan. The semi-aniline finish to the 1.3mm thick hide combines black dye and pigment to allow this to age like nothing else whilst remaining tough and durable over time. There is sateen lining on the body and sleeves, classic D pocket design with zippered side and chest pockets, epaulettes with sterling silver studs, 100% iron "uchi-nuki" side-cinch buckles and universal zippers.
We currently have sizes 40 and 42 with the 44 expected in a few weeks' time.
"Flucky" is the first souvenir jacket we have carried and worth the wait. It is 100% made from rayon, a silk substitute invented by the Victorians and used on Hawaiian shirts of the 50s. What is remarkable is that the embroidery is also 100% rayon rather than polyester and finely and closely woven so there are no hollow gaps. This maintains the silk-like integrity over the whole jacket. It is lined with thinsulate providing insulation without bulk. The jacket is fully reversible with the traditional souvenir map of Japan on the wine coloured side plus the Flat Head Flucky wolf motif. On the black reverse side the "Customs Engine's Club" lettering is made from ultra-suede.
The Flat Head heavyweight T shirts with triple stitched collars (that are literally indestructible) are made from a tubular knit. The T shirts are now cut and sewn at the sides for a more tapered fit.
Shop The Flat Head Horsehide Rider's Jacket
Shop The Flat Head "Flucky" Souvenir Jacket