Jump to content

Danny @ Rivet & Hide

supersponsor
  • Content Count

    1,336
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    N/A

Everything posted by Danny @ Rivet & Hide

  1. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    RIVET & HIDE, London. Info etc...

    Shop Rogue Territory Neppy Denim Work Shirt The new 15.25 oz proprietary Japanese selvedge denim is available in the two main RGT jeans fits - the slim straight Stanton and super slim SK. They have all the classic RGT details including lasso stitch to rear pocket, hidden pen pocket, single needle continuous stitched waistband and hand branded leather patch. A thoroughly modern jean made with thoroughly old school quality and attention to detail. Add to that full restocks of the stealth/black 15 o.z Supply jacket and 12.5 oz. tinted weft SK’s and you have a real treat of a drop. Shop Rogue Territory SK 15 oz. Japanese Selvedge Jeans Shop Rogue Territory Stanton 15 oz. Japanese Selvedge Jeans
  2. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    RIVET & HIDE, London. Info etc...

    Our first major spring drop this year comes from the LA brand going from strength to strength - Rogue Territory. We introduced this brand to the UK a year ago and these new season offerings are further reinforcement of what a good decision this was. The much anticipated Pine Ranger jacket comes in a 10 oz. water repellent American canvas. Taking its inspiration from the classic Barracuta G9, the silhouette is trim and sharp. Gusseted shoulders add a unique and welcome touch to this type of jacket, providing both comfort and style. Welted pockets (two hand-warmers, one chest outside, one chest inside) keep the lines clean. Shop Rogue Territory Pine Canvas Ranger Jacket For a denim option, we have the Supply Jacket – Rogue Territory's updated take on the classic denim jacket. Constructed from a new proprietary (custom-woven) Japanese sanforized denim which has a ring spun yarn and is pure indigo dyed. It also has a unique indigo selvedge line. This gives the fabric a great fade potential due to the vertical slubby nature of the weave. Shop Rogue Territory Proprietary 15 oz Supply Jacket We offer two shirts from the SS17 line-up. The ISC work shirt is a custom made, 11 oz. rope-dyed Indigo Selvedge Canvas. Pure indigo across both warp and weft, this intensely textured material has a real depth of colour and character. The fading from this fabric never disappoints. The Neppy Denim Work Shirt uses a 9 oz. yellow line selvedge from the renowned Nihon Menpu mill in Japan. The 2x1 weave displays clear ‘nep’ – undyed cotton tufts poking through the material – which gives it its individuality. Shop Rogue Territory Indigo Selvedge Canvas Work Shirt
  3. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    RIVET & HIDE, London. Info etc...

    The Railcar Fine Goods Explorer is one stylish double black denim jacket combining vintage details with an ultra modern slim silhouette. The hallmarks of Steven Dang, engineer turned jeansmaker (Steven used to fix the railcars on LA's Pasadena Line) are all over the jacket with strong triple flat-felled chain stitched seams throughout the interior with no exposed edges. Hand-set custom copper rivets strengthen and add style to the front panel pleats and there is a single utility pocket on the left hand side. The jacket is made from a 13 oz. Japanese selvedge denim. Shop Railcar Black Explorer Jacket Railcar also makes great jeans for our female customers. The Vixen is a new skinny fit and the x037 uses a 13.5 oz. selvedge denim with some stretch for comfort. The denim softens up nicely with little wear and will break in yielding natural fades and contrast marks. This medium-rise skinny fit is constructed to minimize any gaping at the lower back and like any raw jeans the fit will develop over the first 20 wears. Construction details include double flat felled back and inseam, custom hand-set copper hardware, hand-branded leather patch, and a traditional chain stitch hem. (We shall put up fit photos in the coming weeks. In the meantime please refer to our sizing guide) Shop Railcar Vixen x037 Skinny Women's Jeans
  4. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    RIVET & HIDE, London. Info etc...

    We just received the first drop from 3sixteen's Summer' 17 lineup with two lightweight and remarkably soft shirts getting us prepped for the warmer months ahead. First off is the Navy Waffle Knit Work Shirt. The fabric is loomed in Japan and as the name suggests has plenty of texture. This shirt features the 3sixteen trademark crosscut back yoke and also has enamel coated buttons designed to chip and age with wear. Next up is the Faded Blue Utility Work Shirt. This lightweight Japanese flannel has a sun-faded worn-in texture, is super soft and will be easy to wear on a hot day. The horn buttons have been burnt for both colour and texture. Shop 3sixteen Navy Waffle Knit Work Shirt Shop 3sixteen Faded Blue Plaid Utility Work Shirt
  5. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    Pure Blue Japan

    By the way the xx-22oz-013 arrives next week and a month later the x011 in a new 17 oz weight. Both come in the modified slim tapered fit with a smidgen extra thigh space and narrower leg opening. These jeans and fit modifications have been part of over a year's discussion between me and PBJ (and possibly other retailers) on costly trips to Japan, Berlin and Paris. The 17 oz. x011 was my idea and was going to be a collaboration. Minimums with PBJ on collabs are prohibitively high, exacerbated by the strong Yen (and woefully weak GBP). Rather than keep it on hold until I was in a position to commit I suggested to PBJ they make it a general release for all retailers (including Japanese ones) and that i would buy what I need. It is worth pointing out the scale of not only fabric production but also legendary indigo-dyeing techniques by PBJ. They still manage to deliver this at a lower price point than other Japanese brands we carry in store. I do not see them disappearing from the denim market place any time soon. Customers literally drool over what they make it is so good.
  6. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    Pure Blue Japan

    Good point and I should add that some latest fits in jeans and shirts did not come out of thin air. They came from constant feedback from western retailers. the x019 and new fit shirts would otherwise not exist. PBJ now does size 6 in shirts. UES developed larger flannels based on my feedback. I trialled samples for them which they sell directly online and I make no complain about. As I mentioned in my previous post I had no knowledge of this development with OD but I will say that Japanese brands' success with western consumers is often dependent on the relationship they meticulously nurture with their retailers.
  7. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    RIVET & HIDE, London. Info etc...

    We have restocked our core Viberg Boots styles; Boondocker leather sole, Boondocker Dainite sole, Colour 8 Service Boots and Black Chromexcel Engineer boots. We have also launched a new build: The Engineer Boot in colour 8 CXL leather. The boot is made on the 2005 last, has a Vibram sole and Cat's Paw heel as well as a stitch down construction. This waxy Horween leather really does look so good with wear. We cannot wait to see a pair of these Engineers the same condition as Junior's service boots in the same leather after a couple of years' wear (image below) Shop Viberg Boots We also restocked our custom slim tapered fit with Dawson Denim. The jeans are made here in the UK using a 14.25 oz sanforized japanese red-line selvedge denim. Shop Dawson Denim x Rivet & Hide Slim Tapered Jeans
  8. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    Pure Blue Japan

    Ok. Got you on the whacking up bit. But you do admit that in VAT/duties alone there is an added 30% cost but say you'd be happy to buy from a UK store if the price difference were 10-15%.
  9. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    Pure Blue Japan

    I have stayed out of this debate because this development was as much as a surprise to me as it was to anyone else. I for one have never made any protests to PBJ over OD and its price structure. Objectively, I can see many sides of the arguments that have been eloquently posited here but see a contradiction in your post. You admit that the cost of importing runs at around 30% but then expect the price difference between Japanese retail and UK retail to be 10-15 % which implies we need to absorb to cost of importing and work on much lower margins than the likes of OD. Import costs are just one of the aspects. Operating a store with staff in Central London is punishingly expensive. Business rates, just one example, are already high and are set to double from April. Few countries have a higher VAT rate than the UK so 20% of any sale in the EU goes to the taxman. I would never "whack" up prices but faced with a depreciating currency and rising costs have had to implement some to protect the viability of the store. I recently heard a pro-Brexit government minister tell retailers they need to absorb these higher costs and not pass them on to their customers. I have written to him and offered him a day's work experience at the store in Windmill Street so he can look at the books and see how fucking hard it is to run an independent store in London selling seriously good shit in the current climate.
  10. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    RIVET & HIDE, London. Info etc...

    Pure Blue Japan has opened up its range to a wider audience with the introduction of the x019 fit. This is described as a ‘relaxed taper’, offering a higher rise, a little more room through the top block, roomier thigh and a reasonable taper. This first iteration is a slubby/neppy 13.8 oz. denim full of Pure Blue Japan's signature texture & character. We have also had a full restock of the always popular x013 in their signature 14 oz. slubby denim, slim tapered fit. Shop Pure Blue Japan x019 Relaxed Tapered Jeans
  11. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    RIVET & HIDE, London. Info etc...

    Nine Lives continues to astound and delight with their fabric, fit, cut and construction. The Jacquard Check Raglan Shirt is constructed using 5 different colours within the weave. The pattern detail is almost fractal, in that the closer you examine it the more the intricacy is revealed. Particular attention has been paid to the seams and structure of the shoulder, resulting in a superlative fit. Available in wine and russet colourways, these slim fitting shirts – like all Nine Lives offerings – really need to be seen to be believed. Shop Nine Lives Jacquard Check Shirt - Wine Shop Nine Lives Jacquard Check Shirt - Russet Keeping us warm and helping us layer, Nine Lives also brings us the Tsuriurake Loopwheeled Sweater. Raglan sleeved (no shoulder seams) this piece has been created in Wakayama on a hanging loopwheel machine. In a break from the norm, Nine Lives have then reconstructed the sides, cutting and adding side seams in order to create a more fitted silhouette than is available from an unaltered loopwheel construction. Super soft, thick, warm, smart & comfortable. Tsuriurake refers to the hanging loopwheeler used with great skill in the Wakayama region of Japan. Shop Nine Loves Tsuriurake Loopwheel Sweater - Black/Navy Shop Nine Lives Tsuriurake Loopwheeled Sweater - off-white/grey
  12. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    RIVET & HIDE, London. Info etc...

    Following the official release on Friday, the much awaited 3sixteen Ranch Jacket has landed in store. Slim fitting with extra length through the body this jacket has Iron buttons, copper rivets, 1 chest pocket and two handwarmer pockets which also double as extra inside pockets. Comes in two styles: either a 12 oz. indigo heavily nepped fabric for a classic fade or in 3sixteens inimitable 14.5oz shadow selvedge for a unique, high contrast fade potential. Shop 3sixteen Indigo Nep Denim Ranch Jacket Shop 3sixteen Sahdow Selvedge Denim  Ranch Jacket
  13. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    RIVET & HIDE, London. Info etc...

    Next week or week after
  14. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    RIVET & HIDE, London. Info etc...

    Indigofera has now released the ‘Acoma’ jacket. 100% waxed cotton canvas and blanket lined, this jacket demonstrates real versatility for the elements and locations, whether town or country. All edges are trimmed with a brown corduroy both outside and inside: collar, hem, cuffs, placket and pockets (two angled outer and two inner). The jacket is finished with heavy duty snap logo buttons on the placket and two buttons to the cuff and reinforced pockets with logo rivets at each outer corner. The cut is straight fitting but not too loose. The back is designed slightly longer than the front and curved to offer that extra protection as you would expect from a jacket with this function. Shop Indigofera Acoma Jacket We have a new boot in from Last & Loom THE BOOT. TYPE 2. Constructed using Cowhide from the North island of New Zealand, Last & Loom utilises a brass screw wire machine dating back to the 1800’s to screw the upper, mid and insole together to deliver a super strong boot that’s built to last. This model comes in a black, full grain, chrome tanned leather, with solid brass eyelets and a half bellow tongue. Shop Last & Loom Type 2 Boots - Black Cowhide
  15. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    RIVET & HIDE, London. Info etc...

    Iron Heart, as always, have the answer for your denim jacket requirements in the from their updated 19 oz. Left-Hand Twill Selvedge Denim Type III. The jacket is unsanforized, full of character with deep tones of indigo. It has been one washed to remove the majority of shrinkage. It has the Iron Heart red selvedge placket, branded buttons and the ever-welcome hand warmer pockets (proper, deep ones too) that double up as two extra inside pockets. If you are looking for a heavyweight denim jacket with legendary fades – your search is over. Shop Iron Heart 19 oz. Type 3 Left Hand Twill Trucker Jacket Berry on The Drums again shows its mastery of the softest imaginable next to skin layers. New in is the raglan sleeve navy/white baseball shirt. 100% Zurich made on 1960’s tubular knit machines (no side seams, no loss of shape) using sustainable cotton from Tanzania. All sizes of the Henleys have also been restocked in black, navy & off white. Shop Berry On the Drums
  16. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    RIVET & HIDE, London. Info etc...

    Will do. Yes sizing will be the same.
  17. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    Pure Blue Japan

    Yes, we should have them in 10-14 days time if not sooner.
  18. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    Pure Blue Japan

    Lots of nep in the fabric and the x019 will open up PBJ jeans to those who need extra room on the thigh compared with existing fits with a taper.
  19. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    Pure Blue Japan

    Most jeans measure 1" more than tagged size when raw. This inch will go with the first soak but will stretch back out.
  20. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    UES Denim

    It is hard to give a definitive answer here as depending on fabric shirts can vary in sizing. I'm normally a 42 in FH shirts but occasionally a 44. Likewise, I am sometimes a size 3 in UES but more often a size 4.
  21. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    RIVET & HIDE, London. Info etc...

    Just seen Andrew from 3sixteen and he says they will be out before the end of the month.
  22. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    RIVET & HIDE, London. Info etc...

    If you feel like treating yourself to something unique as a reward for surviving Christmas and New Year or even 2016 itself then look no further than the first drop of 2017: The Copeland Shirt in Dust Beige Rough Out from Indigofera. Individually numbered, from a very limited run of 38, this is a heavyweight piece that will stand the test of time. Thick, unlined cowhide, cut in the ‘Copeland’ style (straight cut but less boxy than the Fargo) in an evocative desert beige. It's hard to do anything but admire. Heavy duty press studs and riveted side seams are the only hardware this shirt needs and a subtle stitch pattern detail on each breast pocket tops off the whole idea perfectly. Shop Indigofera Copeland Shirt - Dust Beige Roughout We have now introduced the "CT" jeans from 3sixteen. The Classic Tapered has a high rise, room in the top block and a taper from the knee down. We are carrying these jeans across the three core custom woven Japanese selvedge denim styles 3sixteen offers: CT-100x - 14.5 oz Indigo Selvedge CT-120x - 14.5 oz Shadow Selvedge CT-220x - 14.5 oz Double Black Selvedge We have also replenished stock of all Slim Tapered and Straight Leg jeans, hoodies and T shirts. In the near future we will receive restocks of the 3sixteen Trucker jackets in Shadow Selvedge and Double Black denim as well as introduce a new style denim jacket from 3sixteen. Shop 3sixteen CT-100x Indigo Selvedge Jeans Shop 3sixteen CT-120x Shadow Selvedge Jeans Shop 3sixteen CT-220x Double Black Selvedge Jeans
  23. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    RIVET & HIDE, London. Info etc...

    You definitely can see lighter hues of indigo from hank -dyed denim.
  24. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    RIVET & HIDE, London. Info etc...

    This denim is rope-dyed with natural indigo rather than the more commonly used synthetic variation
  25. Danny @ Rivet & Hide

    RIVET & HIDE, London. Info etc...

    We are really excited to end 2016 by introducing a new and in our opinion very exciting brand to the store. Nine Lives is, in their own words, "a symphony of furiously dedicated craftsmen, all playing something weird and feral." The brand places Japanese fabrics and dye-stuffs, from exclusive jacquard weaves to natural indigo sashiko, in dialogue with contemporary patterning, making pieces that are elegant and not just a little dark. Made in Japan, Nine Lives calls on worldwide talent, whether it's the sources of their cotton or the tannery for their yak leather. The Japanese word "kodawari", meaning something like obsessive passion and attention to detail, is clear here...even in their tags, with the brand lettering redolent of the New York punk scene and framed in a golden rectangle. With more pieces arriving in 2017 we launch this brand with the exquisitely tailored Leather and Sashiko Varsity Jackets. To introduce to you the rather unique mindset that belongs to the brand ‘Nine Lives’, we have chosen something of a showstopper. A stadium jacket like no other, this piece sees the union between a hand-dyed indigo sashiko fabric body, pigment-dyed leather arms and thick ribbed collar, (zipped) cuffs and hem. As always with a product of this calibre, it’s not just the immediately obvious that elevates this above your everyday offerings. Closer inspection reveals refinements such as the pockets, where the leather dives deep into the inside as opposed to being merely ‘trimming’, shoulder seams that flow perfectly into the arm, following the natural shape of your form and buttons where the centre ‘fills in’ upon closure. Uncommon materials and fabrics are the norm here - the quilted lining contains a taffeta thinsulate. This holds its shape better and longer than other materials and has the benefit of providing warmth without excess bulk. Nine lives has an unusual, interesting – indeed intriguing - story and persona that appeals right from the start and demands further investigation. We feel that these jackets are a fine example of this and look forward to sharing the voyage of discovery with you. Hold on tight… Shop Nine Lives Leather & Sashiko Varsity Jacket - Black Shop Nine Lives Leather & Sashiko Varsity Jacket - Bone White