Lalafufu

Can I expect a pair of iron hearts to stretch only half an inch if the starting waist measurement is half an inch less than what my jeans stretch to?

What’s industry standard for variance in waist measurement

half inch?

What makes some jeans HAIRIER than others?!

6 hours ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

I think all of those brands are relatively similar in regards to quality, at least in regards to durability - that is to say - they're plenty good for most people who are into jeans more for the fashion of them...which would mostly be the group here as well. Some of the looser weave weird stuff won't hold up as well. Maybe there will be slight discrepancies in stitch quality that again for most people won't provide any functional difference. 

Brands with polyester stitching (IH) generally would hold up longer but most denimheads don't actually want that because it's less aesthetically or materially desirable. 

I think the main factor here that actually drives people is design and aesthetics - and the brands you mention are pretty unappealing to me personally because of poor patterning or patterning that doesn't age well (too trendy) or garish or overly novel design strategies that just...try too hard. Momo's battle stripes are fugly as hell, Samurai is cool and all but not for me just too over the top and IH doesn't interest me at all because I'm not a biker, I don't aspire to represent a biker, I don't think bikers are any more cool or tough or whatever sort of image they want to sell with it. Even if I still were riding I wouldn't buy any IH. 

Stuff that interests me most these days generally comes from Tender, Cottle, Mister Freedom, stuff like that...for overall wardrobe I generally prefer designers who have a coherent vision that is clearly something beyond just remaking old classics in the most meticulous and accurate possible way...but even though I'm not really a big repro guy overall - for just blue jeans, I do think it's hard to beat the staples like TCB, Warehouse or SugarCane. Ooe if you can get them maybe. 

How to tell if jeans have a looser weave?  And do looser weaves stretch more?

4 hours ago, shredwin_206 said:

@Broark I’d agree for the most part, but I’ll say that as someone who really works their denim hard. Iron heart definitely is top tier for an actual work jeans. 
Momotaro and Samurai is cool just because they’re one of the pioneer brands in my opinion. 
Oni was rad before they went mainstream. 
Never heard of Tanuki. Haha 

I would hype myself up in the past for Tanuki releases.  Then see them irl and accept they aren’t for me.  The details for the design look too cute and lead to a cartoonish looking jean

if you’re Seattle BlueOwl has a great relationship with Tanuki and stocks a ton of them!

5 hours ago, Broark said:

Yeah, I would argue that none of those brands are near the top end of the quality spectrum these days…

4 hours ago, Broark said:

@shredwin_206 it is all relative for sure. I don't wear my jeans super hard, so durable work jeans aren't something I'm necessarily interested in..
I don't like heavy denim or poly stitching, two things IH seems to specialize in. And I think their product has become massively overvalued in recent years.
I also don't like overly flashy looking denim, Samurai / Oni / Tanuki all fall into that bucket.
Samurai kind of fell off in my eyes once they got rid of the tab and arcs (same applies to FC).

So, really all of these are quality jeans, they're just not ticking the boxes I'm after these days.

Who do you personally have at the top in terms of quality?

20 hours ago, Geeman said:

Or middle aged guys with 300 quid to spend on a flannel

Something about the design of iron heart jeans gives them a premium look

same with Momotaros 

samurai Tanuki Oni are also at the top of the food chain, but the prior two brands look expensive

22 minutes ago, unders said:

@Lalafufu The clue is in the name. Bike wear. 

Pretty bad azz imo

the raw denim brand for outlaw bikers

About Iron Heart

Is it neither a workwear repro label nor a Japanese heritage brand

1 hour ago, julian-wolf said:

We’re either hands-on people or we’re consplaying as them…

I see what you mean.  Sometimes, the physique betrays the wearer

Are most denim heads hands-on people.  This is the impression I get from seeing entire outfits

So about Samurai 710 fit

is it supposed to give the appearance of a bubble butt no homo with the roomy top block and pocket shape

or do I need to size down more

I’m a lean 135 pounds 5 ft 8 man and run couple miles daily.  Not used to the backside fullness these jeans give

jeans started off at 29 inches and stretched

out to 30 which is how I usually size my jeans.  But these have ample room in the back

On 6/27/2021 at 10:53 AM, JMS said:

good old Edmonds. 

Nearly neighbors with BlueOwl!

who would have expected a top denim retailer being based in Washington [not known for style]

Anyone here own grand indigo dyed pair

what makes grand indigo dye different 

What’s the difference between Momotaro copper label vs vintage label.

I own two pairs of Momos and still don’t know.

3 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

I wouldn't say they are underrated. They just rise and fall in favour like most of the other brands. The Full Count thread was very active but is now nearly dead...doesn't mean the brand is worse (although we could debate about them became worse with the latest changes)

What changes did full count have?

Haven’t owned a pair but they look like Momotaros without the special effects.  Mature alternative to Momo for 5-years down the road

8 hours ago, reallypeacedoff said:

Got me psyched to put on my EDOs. SC is the most underrated denim company, such unique types of denim.

wow that some beautiful faded slub

22 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

I'm not sure about 'thugged out' it's a 'Wild Style' thing!

They were originally the Puma Suede, memories of the early 80's NY hip-hop scene, adopted by the mid 80's UK B-Boy scene (post Wild Style) and the laces became super exaggerated, peeps used to iron them flat, me included

Folks used to call them States, even though they were Suedes just because they came from the states, you couldn't buy them in 1980's England unless they were imported.

1986

Hijack 1987

I’m imagining fat laces on a pair of shoes like pottery now

On 5/21/2021 at 12:58 PM, Double 0 Soul said:

Aye, Campus were made for fat laces

...apples don't fall too far from the tree

Those pumas look pretty good thugged out

1 hour ago, BrownMetallic said:

@Lalafufu Usually, it’s the shrink factor, construction  & how tight the denim weave is … also, the bigger sizes stretches more cuz there’s more material to stretch.

how to tell if the jeans have a tight or loose weave?

1 hour ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

Historically jeans are sort of an ill fitting garment that were really just supposed to be practical. There's no right way. One person's "baggy" is another's slim. Plenty of Japanese brands are making slim stuff (all of that relaxed tapered isn't all that relaxed up top on many western bodies...). The Wall St Journal recently ran a piece that skinny jeans are becoming less popular in the US (for good reason for anyone who ever tried on something with more room). When the WSJ is reporting on fashion...given that they analyze revenue figures that represent what's already happened...it's a safe bet they weren't the first to notice. I mean, get what you want, but your last statement was a lot more accurate 10 years ago. 

 

 

You can try, and the waist might stretch a bit more easily, but the thighs usually not as much. But slubby jeans fitting super slim is also a great recipe for crotch blow outs earlier, since slubby fabric is less durable already. If you size down the waist the rest of the jeans can still be too small, which is often the case in the slim stuff. 

appreciate the in-depth knowledge.  I would have thought skinny jeans are declining due to Americans getting rounder

26 minutes ago, Double 0 Soul said:

Higher tension weave

slubby jeans are lower tension correct?  Does this mean what I think it does I can size down more with lower tension weaves for a leaner fit

why are some jeans harder to stretch than others?

I start wearing new jeans at 29".  They stretch an inch to 30".

My Momotaro's gave me the traditional size down 1 painful stretch experience that we all love.

My Samurai's also started at 29" but have been a painless stretch.

why are some jeans harder to stretch than others?

I start wearing new jeans at 29".  They stretch an inch to 30".

My Momotaro's gave me the traditional size down 1 painful stretch experience that we all love.

My Samurai's also started at 29" but have been a painless stretch.

3

2 Momos

1 Samurai

On the fence about selling the samurai because I haven’t worn them.  Bnwt

2 pairs is the right number for me I think