coleslawyum

I've actually had a similar problem where I was buying more jeans than I could wear. So I cut my collection in half, and I'm left with this unglamorous shelf. This pic is for you b_F.

 

 

For my daily rotation, I just keep them hanging on this hook, along with my shoe horn. My current rotation is LVC 47, Joe McCoy 991XH, Devis S01XX. I also wear one or 2 pairs until they fall apart. And I wash them every 1.5 months.

 

Holy crap, I log on the next day, and a whole new conversation appears. That's the internets for you… I'll post my denim shelf on the "how many jeans do you…" thread.

 

By the way, this forum has always been about supporting each others obsession of denim. It shouldn't be a surprise to anyone that someone posts here owns more than 15 pairs of jeans. (myself included and still counting)

What brands of shoe polish are best to use?

If you want a higher level of toxicity, you can use Kiwi, Saphir, Urad, Angelus etc.

 

Lower levels you can use Tapir.

 

I think a company called Dupre makes natural shoe cream, but I can't vouch for its shine abilities. 

Awesome. Thats a little slice of denim heaven right there!

 

I'll post my denim stash as well when the light is better during the the day. It is not as organized as your rack however.  I have more of a denim shelf.

Pictures of the denim rack please.

 

BTW the denim does look incredibly sanforized and smooth. Hopefully like No. 2 denim, you'll get some good results.

True indeed, a hand welted show would just take too long on any assembly line. To my knowledge only St. Cripsins hand welts their shoes on a larger scale.

 

When I send my boots over to my man in Japan, he does replace the insole and welt by hand, which greatly improves the durability of the boots.

 

Any thoughts on the Viberg, Wesco stitch-down construction?

I… Er… Wow. I've got 3 pairs of boots, and whenever I have more than 3, I sell pairs until I'm back to 3. Otherwise they'd never get any wear!

I totally concur. About a year ago, I realized my shoe collection was getting out of hand, and then I also realized that I had no life since I spent all of my dough on denim and boots. Now I've sold most of my stuff except for some gems, and I'm down to 10 boots. 3 seems too drastic for me.

 

It was like an out of control drug habit, but I'm making progress.

Cat's Paw isn't really that desirable for its actual functionality, but rather the aesthetics. The name, the dots and the cat might be the reason. A set of Vibrams will last longer than any old set of soles and heels.

 

I usually wear an insole with most of my boots, just for comfort. For my LW, its just a thin Spenco.

Yes, Biltrite has owned the Cat's Paw trademark for awhile now. Biltrite itself is a company that is over 100 years old making rubber goods. Vintage Biltrite soles and heels are just as desirable as Cat's Paw, form my experience.

 

Toyo probably can license the Cat's Paw trademark, like what Toys McCoy does with their Steve McQueen and Felix the Cat marks. I think Toyo licensed the Warner Brothers Road Runner mark for some of their Whitesville stuff.

 

I think the real reason you don't see any Cat's Paw work clothing in the States is the demand for it.

Lone Wolf is a half or whole size larger than tagged size, depending on how your like to rock your shoes. I sized down half a size, but I might have been able to squeeze into a whole size down.

 

HP is very old school. You have to email them and then call in for your CC info. You get a hand written receipt delivered snail mail. 

 

HP has been the exclusive distributor for many years, forcing retailers to jack up the price to the point where it was cheaper to order directly from Japan to the States. So BiG decided not to continue with ordering from HP, being a hassle with the pricing.

The easiest way is to look at the design that has the Lucian Bernhard logo, the cat with only the head and one paw.

The other way is to see if the heel is made in the USA (it says so on the back). Since they are not made in the USA anymore, then it is NOS. Anything that is newer uses the whole cat logo which is made in Canada where Biltrite (the holding company) manufactures their rubber.

 

Toyo, Real McCoy's, Toys McCoy all use repros. 

 

 

Left: 1970's Middle: 1990's Right: 1980's

No Warehouse or Fullcount? Blasphemy! KAPITAL needs a mention as well. Definitely not a "Perfect" book.

devilva

I just checked your blog: You got one hell of an Evisu collection.

Loopwheeled fabric is more interesting, in my opinion, as much as old shuttle loomed denim is interesting. However, the fabric isn't anything to write home about if the cotton wasn't interesting to start off with. The combination of both these factors as well as dyeing methods, makes for a overall more interesting fabric. How can a garment constructed with cotton thread and rusted buttons be more durable than a polyester fabric, poly thread, and stainless button garment? Its not.

 

Regarding loopwheeled fabric, the difference is noticeable, but whether or not its better than non-loopwheeled is relative to what a person is looking for.

Since I rotate my boots and shoes a lot, I don't resole very often, maybe 6-7 years at the earliest. Sometimes if you can take care of the soles, they might even last 10 years. Or you have to many shoes. I might change my heels once a year.

Aside from the Algonquin apron toe... a passing resemblance to the Indy? Most likely better made too! 

 

For sure, if it's a hand sewn welt, its already better than most things made on an assembly line. The leather is Badalassi, veggie tanned leather. I guess they missed the point of a rugged work boot, but that what I like about them.

 

It's like a true carrot fit?

 Like a true Evisu fit.

 

Another year… Lot 2000 going on 6 years.

 

 

Jerky, distorted patch.

 

 

 

 

This denim ropes like no other.

 

 

 

Black and White Selvedge.

 

 

No problem!

 

Okuyama-san does speak a little English, with a little help from his wife, they can answer most questions. I mostly speak to him in Japanese, but I also send him pictures as well. He's trained as a shoemaker, so he can pretty much do it all. I'm looking forward to seeing what you got in store.

Regarding Okuyama-san, what are the options for re-lasting when he does a re-sole? Wondering about what stock lasts he might have. What are the lead times roughly? Thanks...

I've never had a discussion with him regarding lasts, but I imagine he has quite a few since he mentions them a lot on his blog. He's taken a lot of trips to the Red Wing factory as well as Viberg, so more than likely he has his hands on a lot of them.

 

When he's busy, the lead time is about 2 months +. When he's not so busy a little less than a month, but the last time I spoke with him, he's been trying to catch up for a year.

 

 

The difference that the buckles and sole work make is *crazy*.  Especially the Red Wings.

Thanks! I agree, they give it a little more flavor than stock boots. I can't image Red Wing making a pair like that. It would be so cost inefficient.

I would be careful about using B. Nelson. My experience with them has been, lets say, uneven. They are not cheap either, but I think they can only handle dress shoes with thin soles. Even with a pair of Alden's, they had trouble understanding what I wanted.

 

I did have them resole a pair of Grensons with a Dainite sole which they did a passable job on. This pair needed a new insole, and it cost about $180.

 

They seem to have a very crappy outsole stitcher, where the tension is not calibrated correctly, so all the stitching is uneven. I got sick and tired of the shoddy craftsmanship, so I just send all my shoes to Japan.

 

You can also try and contact my man out in LA, (instagram handle BrianTheShoemaker). He's a young cat, but he really knows and cares about shoe construction, more these old farts who are used to giving crappy service for years.

Let's all beast together…

 

Assorted instagram pics of my shoes.

 

Alden Long Wing Spectator

 

Alden 405

I think Jean Shop in the meat packing caries a few of the lace ups. I remember the rep from Chippewa telling me its coming out August September. 

Knee bags disappear over time. My god, these are just jeans. Wear them, wash them, fornicate in them, the fabric will eventually relax and drape nicely. Even if you don't trust me, after several thousand pictures of people wearing the shit out of their jeans, AND looking right, I don't know what else to say to you.

That's not really from the archival line. The archival line is made with Horween leather, Real McCoy's buckles and repro vintage Vibrams. They will retail from $400 and up.

 

Not to dis Chippewa, (they are a frustratingly confused company) That's just the same ol' shit that they've had in Japan for years. 

Well, I guess I'll blow up the spots.
 

 

Chippewa's US made archival line that is suppose to rival Wolverine 1000 and Red Wing has finally dropped.  They're up now on Zappos:

 

http://www.zappos.com/chippewa-men~2#!/chippewa-men~2?s=isNew/desc/goLiveDate/desc/recentSalesStyle/desc/

 

The engineer from the archival line already has a few size left