coleslawyum

Joe McCoy jeans are unsanforized, shrink to fit. They have a less solubly texture than, say a Samurai or Oni. But it doesn't mean its smooth. The Real McCoy's jeans are sanforized, but they are also not totally smooth. Weights for the jeans are around 14.5oz~17oz

Do you tuck the overhang of the upper underneath and then attach the welt? I would appreciate a picture of the bottom if you have one. Thanks!

 

I think you are getting better every pair you do. Keep it up!

These are overlock stitch sergers, not chain stitch machines. They are used to finish raw edges of fabric to prevent them from unraveling.  If you want to hem your own jeans, try looking for a Union Special 43200, like the one on first page of this thread. They used be be cheaper, but these days they run over $3000.

 

You can also use a single needle chain stitch machine, but it won't give you the torque that give the hem the extra twist to get some serious roping effect.

 

Or if you don't care about a chainstich or "roping" then any sewing machine that can punch through heavy denim will do.  

Ray, its a stunning collection.

Gotta go here. Its the main Osaka Samurai store blog.

Nice work Brian! I agree that the double sole, block heel on a pair of dress boots looks bobo. Single / commando would be an improvement, but if you really want the double sole, you could go with a double front, single mid and a half outsole. Also a slightly pitched heel looks better on a dress boot, instead of a block heel, like how St. Crispin's, Giziano, Corthay, etc. does it.

 

Been raining a lot here, so its time to clean up my Red Wing 2268:

 

Dirty Boot.

 

 

Clean Boot.

 

Just as a note, the 906 is not like the 614 at all (as described). The two silhouettes are completely different, but I guess SD is not known for their accuracy.

1913 Pea Coat feature a slightly taller silhouette and extra front flap pockets.

1936 Pea Coat is shorter and only has two front slash pockets.

 

I think the silhouettes are also not the same. They are based on the original specs. 

That's some crazy looking boots you got there.

 

 

Would it be possible to replace the half heels with whole heels on the Murdocks?

I find the half heels wear out much too fast, especially the outside edges.

 

Yeah no problem, the cobbler just has to remove one or two heel lifts.

Yeah, I would go the cobbler route if you are based in the US. There's a lot of things you might run into, not just Cat's Paw, but vintage Biltrite or O'Sullivan heels.

Speaking of Beckmans, here are some older pics.

 

For half-soles, just ask around your local cobblers. He might have a bunch that he's itching to move. Otherwise you have to buy from re-sellers that mark up the price of the soles, due to it's rarity. There are 2 versions of half soles. The one that has the half cat design by Lucian Bernhard, and the other version on my pair with the whole arched cat.

 

 

When New:

 

 

Now:

 

^Neither.

 

RMC 991: wide waist, slim leg, narrow leg opening, narrow hips, short-ish medium rise

RMC 906: wide waist, narrow hips, straight leg, standard leg opening, medium rise

 

Evisu Lot 2000: narrow waist, wide hips, loose legs, Smaller than standard leg opening, medium to tall-ish rise

Eternal 811: narrow waist, standard hips, straight legs, standard leg opening, tall rise

I would say that the Jobmaster and Semi-dress are about the same. I wear the same size in both. I actually find the Jobmaster a smidgen wider.

Its 37oz so the coat kind of can stand up on its own. It won't sag in the closet. Even vintage coats from the 60's still hold their shape. From my experience, Real McCoy's isn't the type of brand that would make anything that isn't close to, sometimes better than the original.

 

I imagine the only time the fabric will wrinkle is if you jump into a pool wearing it on.

Thought this was a pretty interesting blog post regarding their Boondocker boots: http://www.realmccoys.co.jp/blog/planning_section/2013/09/post-19.html

 

Holy sh*t, there's like $30,000 worth of engineer boots there. Granted they are a bit overpriced…

Some old pictures I found. More work from Mr. Okuyama.

 

Chippewa. Steel toes removed, leather toe added, hand re-welted, leather outsole.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A re-sole from 2008. Before he had his own buckles. Frankly his skill level has improved over the years.

 

But there is still some reinforcement like celastic in there, no?

 

Yes, I asked for that to be put in. Its an extra bit of leather.

one thing i notice about his re-soles is the flow of the sole, from heel to toe.  Not sure how else to describe it, but it has an organic shape, almost aerodynamic in appearance.  Everything is balanced

Yes I agree. He does insist on finishing every pair of boots himself. I've watched him fine tune the soles on the grinder. He's got a very delicate touch that is usually reserved for a dress shoe. From the slight pitch of the heel to the smoothness of the sole, it's unmatched.

 

The other thing to note, and it's just a nerdy detail, is how even his stitches are. Through experience, he sets his tension just right on his Rapid E machine. He also uses the correct thread. If you look at anyone else's work, you'll see how uneven the stitches are in terms of size and straightness.

 

Did you have the steel toe removed from the 2268?

Yes indeed.

Its true, Okuyama-san has a few Red Wings lasts as well as White's, Wesco, etc. He is the best in my opinion, because I really don't need to explain anything to him. He just gets it. His sense of style, level of craftsmanship is very unique to him. It might not be everyone's cup of tea, but I love it.

 

The last time I visited him, he had boots to repair all the way up to his crib, so he had to open bigger place, as well as have a brick and mortar shop to sell his boots (Vibergs, Whites, and Rios). I can imagine he'll be busy for months even without taking on new clients.

While I'm here, some re-soled RW 2268, by the Boots Master, Takeshi Okuyama.

Buckles are Red Wing 50's repros and the soles & heels are 70's Cat's Paws.

 

 

 

Sup Brian! Glad to see your work on here. Just in case anyone is wondering Brian is a cobbler that still utilizes, hand welting, skiving and cutting. In other words, his craftsmanship is great. He can re-size, re-sole as well re-shape toe boxes. He has a very interesting product which I'm sure he'll announce soon.

 

Hit him off for all of your boot maintenance needs.

Thanks a lot for the pic and the list of your jeans, coleslawyum!

You're welcome!

 

since i'm looking more into RMC these days, would you mind sharing some info on the different fits?

would be nice...fitpics would be killah, just saying

From my experience, RMC fits have always been very vintage-like (large legs, tall rises, baggy ass). So if a particular jean is inspired by a 1930's pair, you can almost predict that the RMC version will fit the same, like the S600.

 

The 906 original fit was really strange, which put a lot of people off to it. It has waist that was too big and hips that were too tight. Thats probably why they changed with the 906S.

 

It think the 991 is the best fitting out of all the models I've experienced. It has the perfect rise / leg opening combo.

 

I have a fit picture on my blog here.

 

For all the other models, I'm sure the other sufu-ers can offer their opinions.

Long-ass ones, like the ones that go over the calf. The short ones get swallowed up by my walking. And cotton.

 

Although I did run to the store with no socks one time. It hurt and was gross.

Sure, no problem…

 

SAMURAI:

0500xx

5000vx

BiG Original Collab

510xx RR 66

SM510DX-HC

S02010XJ

 

REAL MCCOY's:

Joe McCoy 906

Joe McCoy 991XH

S600

S614

 

DENIM PROJECT:

Devis S01XX

Devis D66

 

EVISU:

Lot 2000 No.1 Special Black Selvedge

Lot 2000 No.1 Special Silver Selvedge

Lot 2001 No.2 Orange Selvedge Tokyo Edition

Evis Lot 2006

 

LOOSE:

Denime XX Shins

Sugarcane EDO-AI

Oni Denim Awa Shoai

Workers Lot 800

Pure Blue 010XX

Warehouse 660

 

And that's it… I sold or traded everything else. Now I only purchase a pair of jeans, if the denim and fit is too good to pass up or its rarity.