hanajibu

this weekend:

Bruce, Alexander Wang, United Bamboo, Luella Bartley, 3.1 Phillip Lim

playing rest of the week by ear...

Dior S/S 07 18cm black jeans

Dior A/W 06-7 19cm raw black jeans

Acne Max Cash

Tokyo Vaudeville show @ Japan Society with the girl, followed by drinks, ochazuke, and other deliciousness at Donburi-Ya (I never know where to go in Midtown NY, we lucked out though...)

I would start with Max Raw first (Max is slimmest men's Acne model, with a low rise) and size one down.

Unless you have a really small waist, then try Hex Raw (womens) but I think it's cut a bit differently? I own Max Raw and Max Cash (black unwashed).

what they have in the store is the black overdye denim (not much left I think...) and a black cotton jean-cut trouser in the new standard (and new cure) cut. the sizing of the trouser is much truer than their denim, though...

I've asked them about making a raw black but so far....no dice.

resurrecting this old thread...

I went by Famous Friends today to check out the W+H/W&H stuff that has been posted so often of late and the Japanese guy directed me to their Whyred selection (he knows I like skinny jeans; I bought my acne max cash there). I tried the 28x34 Whyred Dee in this blackish one-wash that reminded me of the color of acne max "blackness" (sort of a blue-black, really beautiful but subtle).

The fit is much like my acne max cash, i.e. low rise, tapered leg, slight stretch, very close-fitting (thigh, leg, etc) but the denim feels slightly thicker and rather soft. The inseam is 2" longer than my acnes so there is more ankle-stacking. The Dee is zipper-fly but there are two buttons as the clasp (?) at the top, next to each other instead of one over the other.

I have them on hold and I quite like them. Just so SFers know, you can find these in NYC...

now? iced green tea and water

tonight? frigid kurosawa sake

chotto erosugi ne!

and no pockets! I guess if you're rocking a jean/"thong" combo, you don't need 'em?

yes they will give a bit, either it's the elaston in them (2%) or the denim itself, but they'll sort of mold to your form over time. i think you made the right choice.

what size are you in other denim, for comparison? i wear 28 in max cash, 26 in apc, for instance...

I was at Jeffrey this past weekend and there is basically no N(N) or Undercover left (the N(N) deconstructed cardigan — the ONE Jeffrey ordered — sold out after I looked at it, and it's not at Atelier).

Incidentally, I think Barneys carries a bit of N(N)...possibly Undercover as well, but I haven't been up there in awhile.

dior 19cm raw black

acne max raw

acne max cash

if you're in NYC, stop by Jean Yu's atelier on Crosby (at Grand St?? I think?) in Soho. We're talking expensive stuff here but all of it very sexy, and very special...

http://www.jeanyu.com/index.swf

my bad...Han is the model in Anna Molinari. Du Juan is in Cavalli and YSL campaigns currently, I believe.

isn't it Hye? And she's Korean.

shit...work then a gallery reception:

ann demeulemeester 4-button jacket: 1175$

aa summer T: 18$

dior 19cm raw: 300$

prada chelsea boots: gift

best in NYC (for me):

* Atelier: Karlo is extremely warm, knowledgeable, very approachable. Loves his work. Gentry et al. are great guys.

* Seven: Great group. Taiann especially has been extremely patient w/ me, as I kept trying on Acnes, sending them back, trying them on again, ad infinitum

* Famous Friends: Richard and I small-talk. He's the best and totally in the know. The Japanese dude and I chitchat nihongo-de, even if I'm not buying.

minya, props on the boris t, caught them at a club in brooklyn...best thing ever!

today, in the boss' office:

apc

barneys (pocket square)

apc

acne max cash

helmut lang

designer at a fashion magazine

anyone know where I can buy max cash online or in nyc?

if you are lucky, you will find your size at Famous Friends (E 9th St b/w B & C), grab an espresso from Ninth Street Espresso while you're out there.

if not, go to Barneys or Jeffrey, but you'll pay a lot more...

what is fit of these compared with diors?

I tend to consider acne max cash a high-quality alternative to cheap mondays. so when you size down they're super-slim and low-rise...the inseam is only 32" though so there's a bit of stacking.

dior 19cm have a 36" inseam (I think??) so they stack up much more. the taper is far more noticeable; they're more fitted in the leg than the acnes but about the same in the thigh. the fit in the bum, thanks to the darts or whatever, is superior too (think this has been discussed on the boards before...), to the acnes and every other jean I own.

acne cash is raw? that makes them more attractive... i also like that the tag on the back is white..

and yeah, i know they aren't that skinny.. i like that about them, because again, black jeans make your legs look even skinnier and i have big feet and muscular-ish legs so i don't want it to look disproportionate..

I have acne max cash and they are pretty slim, but I think there is 2% elaston or something so they hug the body. Size down for a slimmer fit. Besides the white tag, they are totally, completely black.

I also have 19cm raw black Diors (only starting to break these in) and Nudie slim jim black black (they're beautiful but not super slim; should've sized down...)

deep V, nearly always with either the collared shirt/skinny tie combo or with a no-frills crewneck of varying color.

there is this beautiful Les Hommes deep V at Atelier NY that I am contemplating...slim and black with exposed seams. Gentry there says it looks amazing solo (i.e. without another shirt) but I don't know if I can pull that look off...

they fit true to size. I purchased the new cure cut of the black trousers (these would be the "tight" version) in size 28, and I am a 28. Perfect fit.

FYI I wear 26 in APC jeans.

beefy-t's hold up very well as dusting rags.

I never dug the fit nor the feel, tended to be too thick for me.

It took a bit of work, but after asking the right coworkers it seems I have secured a spot at the Cloak show next Tuesday. Not sure if I'll hit up any others (I'd like to hit Alexandre Herzecovich but it's during work hours...). Anyone in the city attending shows? Will I "see you at the Tents"?