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Posts posted by Ahlvahroe
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Besides like Tender and Mr Freedom, who else does less traditional cuts?
I’m not sure if I want another repro for my next pair
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On 3/9/2024 at 11:46 AM, Talan said:
Question for tall guys😀 Which brands make really long leg jeans? Like 36? For somebody who's height 198 cm. Thanks.
Drybones does a 36 in inseam.
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I don't know if this belongs here or in the obscure denim brands thread but it looks like Yamane is trying to start another line. If i'm not mistaken he doesn't own evisu anymore, right?
https://yamaneart.base.shop/
https://yamaneart.base.shop/items/71471328 these seems just ok, but nothing else is really catching my attention.
oh wait? is evisu done? i just went on evisu.jp and it redirected me to the evisu US site.1 -
completely missed that. thanks @Maynard Friedman
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i just did a quick search and there was only 1 post, but does anyone have much experience with west ride denim?
these just popped up on my IG, and they really caught my attention.https://www.instagram.com/p/ByHyKu8h6HG/?img_index=1
I'm not really in the market for another pair yet, but the detailing on these looks great. that reinforced crotch!
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I don’t think there’s a thread so I’ll ask here but does anyone have experience with deluxewear flannels?
They look great! but I’m not sure about the sizing.
I usually wear an American medium but I have a sugarcane shirt that’s a large and a pherrows that’s an xl.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ciwr0woM7wJ/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
this one in particular.
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On 12/25/2006 at 3:14 PM, ringring said:
Whilst Italian denim may not have much in the way mysticism about it, Italy has an indelible link with the history of denim and jeans.
Italy has long had a tradition and love of the colour blue. Medieval Italy (or rather the fertile lands of Lombardy and Piedmont - as Italy wasn't united until late 19th century) was a major european producer of pastello also known as guado or perhaps more commonly as woad or isatis tintoria. And Italian merchants dominated sea borne trade in woad, selling onto northern europe. Of course woad was used to dye woollens, of which there existed a flourishing textile industry in Tuscany (and whose tradition lives on in Florence & Prato).
Rather serendipitously, the Japanese process their natural indigo in the same way as the Italians did. Instead of choosing the common method of fermenting the indigo leaves polygonum tintoria or Ai in water filled vats, the leaves are composted. And like in Italy, the compost is formed into balls ( Ai-Dama in Japanese or Palle o Miche di Pastello in Italian for transport.
With the influx of cotton coming in from the Egypt & Syria via Venice and into Genova from North Africa and from the Moor occupied Calabria and Andalusia - there grew a need for indigo, indigofera tintoria, as woad wasn't nearly as effective on plant fibres. (this mirrors the peak of natural indigo production during the Edo period in Japan, which was symbiotically linked to increase cotton production).
(Incidentally, I believe the Italian word 'cottone' comes from the Arab word 'qoton' - although cotton was also known in the Venice region as 'bombagio' from the Greek word 'bombacion' - which tells you of the journey cotton took from the East).
I guess the most famous link that Italy has with the history of jeans is the noun itself. Allegedly derived from the tough cotton pants or 'Genes' (blu de Gene) that Genovese sailors wore and brought with them to the Americas. I've heard some Italians claim that the distinctive 'watch pocket' was also a legacy of these Genovese.
In the Museo Del Risorgimento in Rome, there are a pair of workpants known as 'Garibaldi's jeans'. These pants known as 'Genovesi' (Genes/Jeans) were said to be worn by Giuseppe Garibaldi (the 'Lion of Liberty' - and Italy's George Washington) and his sailors in the 1800s.
There are different stories about the fabric these 'genes' could have been made of, from cotton duck, to wool. Although in Garibaldi's case, it seems that he wore indigo blue, cotton 'genes'.
However, there was cotton fabric called fustagno which has been called 'the ancestor of jeans'. Fustagno these days usually refers to moleskin, the hard wearing brushed cotton, but again, excuse me for the fuzzy history (I'm no historian), I believe, in those days, it was a collective word for hard wearing cotton fabrics.
There are dummies in the Luxoro Civic Museum in Genova from the 17th and 18th seccoli that look to be dressed in costume made from indigo dyed twill. A hard wearing, cotton twill, indigo warp, neutral weft....just like denim. A somewhat speculative link, but it may add some mystery if not mystique.
Jumping into the 20th century, Italy has been hugely influential in the evolution of jeans as an item of workwear to jeans as fashion. From it's domestic jeans brands of the mid 70s, such as Rifle, Jesus and Carrera came Fiorucci. Elio Fiorucci made jeans glamourous with sexy fits, multi colours, sateens and lurex and spun the jeans story full circle, exporting his designer-jeans back to their spiritual home - America. Diesel, Sixty, Replay and many, many Italian brands have carried on where Fiorucci left off. Italy continues to lead in the development of industrial washes and of course it's denim.
It's not too far fetched, if somewhat romantic, to draw a straight line in history, from the cornfields that surround the famous Italian denim mill, Candiani today, and think perhaps, the same fields cultivated pastello centuries beforehand.
By the way, good luck Raul.
I was curious if there were any Italian denim brands. Landed in this thread. This history lesson is far too good to let die. Wow!
but if anyone knows about cool Italian denim brands I’m still curious. Haha
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alright, i am the WILD overthinker so after months of going back and forth i placed an order for the dry bones last night. should be arriving soon. excited!
but thanks to @beautiful_FrEaK, @Topnotcher, @unders, and @Thanks_M8 for the suggestions.
i'm almost thinking of still buying the pherrow's for my brother. he doesn't care about clothes so he's always said yes when i bought him denim in the past.
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@beautiful_FrEaK i actually think i saw one of your posts on IG while researching this so yeah, it doesn't seem like there are a ton of newer faded dry bones.
i've totally fallen down a rabbit hole during my research. fob factory looks great. two moon looks cool even though i don't like blank pockets, deluxewear is looking interesting.i'm sure i'll end up with more evisu though, ha! ok maybe not.
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@Topnotcher I appreciate the help! i have a pherrow's denim shirt and really like it but never owned any jeans so i'm looking at the options. thanks!
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9 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:
Dry Bones' construction is top notch (as all Japanese brands?!). The denim is quite soft and will fade very slowly. Cool pants for sure.
Both cuts are pretty different though. The Dry Bones model is a tapered 66 cut whereas the Pherrow's are a 40s-50s cut with a wider leg.
Do you have any pics of faded dry bones? I can’t find any of the faded double helix arcs ones.
Also from sizing I’ve looked at online, are dry bones a little bigger in the waist than labeled?2 hours ago, Topnotcher said:Yes i have the 421 sw ( like 1947 cut) and the 451 ww 2 model.Once i owned the 500sw buckle back and the 521sw (kind of 1955 cut). How can i help?
Does the 521 also have the flannel pockets? Flannel don’t seem sturdy and I want a pair to beat to death.
I kinda want a looser pair too. I just got some evisu 2000t like 3 months ago so I’m looking at my options.
thanks!
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https://www.dry-bones.com/product/jean-engineering-denim-pants-2
or
https://pherrows.tokyo/collections/all/products/521sw-ow
I've never owned or handled a pair of either, so i'm curious about constructions and fades and all the good stuff. Wondering if anyone has owned either? doesn't have to be these exact fits.
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On 4/11/2021 at 10:20 PM, evisu 2000 said:
bro i remember your food posts
Food adventures haven't stopped. Shit, I'm going to the French Laundry tomorrow! Cheers!
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9 hours ago, lee porter said:
Nice what weight are these ones 15 or 18 ?
the 18. it's weird, these aren't as dense as i thought they would be. i had a pair of 18 oz denim like 15 years ago and remember them being heavy, these aren't too bad.
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Damn! So I ordered a 2000t petero. I got a 33. The waist is really undersized. They’re probably a legit 30 waist. I’ve put on 15 lbs during quarantine so they’re really tight. About to get my second vaccine so I can start hitting the gym again soon and start putting some work on these! The denim looks great though.
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RIP Man.
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SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)
in superdenim
Posted
I guess that’s the best way to put it. Not a strict repro. I’m thinking like a slim straight. The tender 129 was catching my eye but I’m still looking.
but I’m also looking at other styles too like the carpenter jeans that pherrow’s does look cool too.
So I’m just spit balling ideas right now. But I don’t want another ‘66 repro.