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Paul T

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Posts posted by Paul T

  1. Ive wanted a duck triple pleat for years but missed it the only time it was on offer. I am lucky enough to have the duck pullover, though, and I suspect my natural indigo 1880s will last me a decade (by which time they might show some fading).

  2. LVC was always a flagship range to stress the company's heritage. And they've done a lot of great items; many of which have been copied by Japanese boutique brands. But I suspect right now the company is focused on profits, simplifying supply chains, and the big picture of the brand worldwide, given the recent stock flotation.

  3. do they name it V2? Do we think the new range is all made in Bulgaria? Post us a link please!

    I would think it's pretty much impossible to see differences in the fabric raw, we'd need to see how it ages to really understand it.

  4. 4 hours ago, kicks79 said:

    The denim will be from Kaihara mills( last season was the last of the white oak), no idea where they are now cut and sewn. 

    Have they said that on the record?

    It's what they told me five years ago was the back up plan. Still sad though.

  5. SK was gesticulating as he showed how the yarn was made, I did get the sense that the sugar content - which I agree is likely fibre strands or chunks - was on the inside, and cotton on the outside of the yarns (nothing to do with a spray). The translation, by Teiji Kakutani, was live, so more room for error. I don't think I used it in any articles, as I sent tricky quotes back for verification and didn't do so with this.

    http://loomstate.blogspot.com/search/label/Nihon Menpu

     

  6. Yikes, that sounds a bit hardcore but I guess the man who makes the denim would know? There could well be errors in translation, he might have said powder when he really means strands, of course. Also he's only weaving the yarn, not making it.

    But marketing speak is marketing speak.

  7. There's no sugar cane in the yarn according to Mr Kawai at Nihon Menpu, who makes the fabric, there are apparently small sugar granules. This Q&A was translated by NM's export director.

    PT: Tell me about the Sugar Cane yarn. Whose ideas was it?
    SK: "it's just starting in Sugar Cane .. the making small... in the fabric and inside is sugar broken into sugar power, on the inside, so inside of the yarn .. so a more soft yarn."

    Whose idea was that?
    SK: "Maybe it was from the Sugar Cane people."

    For the key fabrics with that lovely streaky combined natural/synthetic indigo, the synthetic is unspec'd, natural is usually a mix, 80% Indian, 20% Japanese.

  8. we'd need to see the internal tag to know. But they'd have to be older than 20 years to be Japanese produciton. They kept producing the inbetween vintage models (502, a 55 501 etc) in Japan, often with cone, but the main models like the 37 were made in the US from 1999 or so, for Levi's Japan.

     

  9. 2 hours ago, mpukas said:

    That's specifically what I was wondering about. I missed a pair in my size 33x34 a few weeks ago 'cuz I was sitting on the fence wondering if they were selvedge or not... 

    What is the Cone Mills White Oak non-selvedge denim like, compared to selvedge? Is/was it woven on projectile looms? Doesn't matter that much if the denim is selvedge or not, it's just that the Cone selvedge is much nicer than the non-selvedge currently being used. 

    that Cone mainstream was usually ring/OE (ring warp/indigo yarn, OE fill yarn) .

     

  10. 54 minutes ago, VivaMarlon said:

    The first two you mentioned are the ones I want next, what do you like about them so much?  I'd love to know!

    The 55 is lovely quality Cone denim, with a great classic fit. The quintessential Levi's really.

    The 66 is a bit skinnier, really nice fit, blue-er denim, which is good but personally I don't love the fabric as much the 55. I've never owned the 76 but I think that sounds on a par with the 66.

    Really I like them all; they're all distinct although the very early models are harder to work with, they take years before they come into their own. I've been wearing my 1890s in the summer for maybe 10 years and they still need another few years.

    Given that all Cone stock will be gone soon, the 55 and 66 or 76 are really worth splashing out for . Once they're gone they're gone.

  11. I've posted lots on here before about this, but this week my fave LVC are the 55, the 66, and the natural indigo 1880s. The previous 1880s, which were in synthetic indigo with a greenish natural indigo cast, are great too. I'm also a big fan of the old 1915 fabric. And I shouldn't forget the lovely three-pleat jacket.

    On my old website, there's a guide to the models (scroll down towards the bottom) which is old but still mostly current.

  12. On 5/5/2019 at 4:09 PM, Sympathy-For-The-Denim said:

    few month ago i bought those natural indigo 1873s, unworn with tags still attached, from ebay for like 100,-€. the denim has a nice green cast and could fade beautyful. unfortunately my pair runs very big compared to 1870s from last years season, so it´s still unworn in my collection...

    what happened to your pair Paul?

    I'm waiting for the end of the TCB 20s contest. And I might well give my 1890s another summer, so I think it's next year at least. They're my last pair of unworn LVC.

    Plus there's a new job and a new suit for me in September so expect a worn-in photo of the natural indigo around 2025.

  13. both those design formats (twisted whacky seams and oversize stitching/rivets)  were copied by loads of people including Miss Sixty and True Religion, which is as sincere flattery as you could want.

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