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Paul T

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Posts posted by Paul T

  1. On modern 501s it is certainly possible that the preshrunk jeans don't carry the XX, i don't have my folder with this info to hand. But there are preshrunk items, like the 557 and 502, that had the XX, and there are shrink-to-fit 501s from various eras that didn't carry the XX, if that makes sense.

    Amazon's books are on a slow boat from China, I'm sure when they have stock they'll reduce their markup from 1,000%. Er, I hope so, anyway...

  2. Sorry. Nearly all wrong!

    XX was a term originally used by Levi's, probably from the 1890s, to denote their 'premium' Amoskeag denim, used on the 501, as opposed to the un-named denim (same weight, but unspecified supplier) used on their cheaper 201 range. They continued using the XX code fro their best denim even after they switched suppliers to Cone Mills in the 1920s. Hence the 501 was sometimes - but not always - also termed the 501XX, for instance on the leather patch of most of 501 jeans from the 30s to the 50s.

    The post 83 fabric, made on wide looms, was called XXX denim. But mostly they continued calling their jeans simply 501, and I'm pretty certain some jeans, particularly in Europe etc, continued to have the XX designation, just because it had become a habit...

    So, essentially, xx on a pair of Levi's (or a jacket) means not very much at all. It can be the early premium denim, it could also be pre-shrunk denim (eg on the 557xx jacket), and it has been used on many non-selvage items too. It PROBABLY means the fabric was made by Cone, as that is what it meant for many years, but I wouldn't be surprised if it has been used for non-Cone denim too.

  3. It's a typo in the heading. It should read 1937. The jeans illustrated are the 1937 ones, so is the description. AFAIK there is no distressed 47 jean in the current range. And the '37 ones, which are in the range, aren't listed on the website.

  4. Think we'll more details to ID. Have you tried calling the shop? How were they like the engineered range? Twisted seam? What do you mean by 'the stitching'?

    For $600 I would guess they're the 1890 Spur Bite reissue (one back pocket, back cinch, lots of patches on the back)... but that's only a guess.

  5. I bought the cop jacket, used, from its makers on W 63rd, right in the south side of Chicago. These guys are the official supplier - there were cops debating which is the best bulletproof vest next to me as I bought it. Weighs a freakin ton, and is shiny, cos the guys poliish them.

    The aero jackets I've seen look great quality, a lot of them horsehide, definitely much better than Schott, for instance. It was the café racer ones that I was talking about, the ones sometimes called Triupmh jackets, and the quality looked great.... only slight problem is that this was the design that Prada knocked off around 1999, so a few people might think u look like Victoria Beckham.

    don't rule out a Belstaff waxed jacket if you can pick one up for the right price. But then, I've been looking for one for a freind from NY for the last four months, and haven't seen one that wasn't extortionate, cos their new owenrs are starting to marekt the things as a damn fashion brand...

    Edited by Paul T on Oct 3, 2005 at 12:02 PM

  6. This is SO complicated! BUT I am hoping to get a complete breakdown of all the specs from a LVC pattern maker for a project I'm working on.

    I'd say the 1944 cut is not too dissimilar to the 1933 or 1937 cuts. It's the detailing that makes them all look different. Wide-ish leg, straight, with a reasonably shaped ass. They are all cut pretty big for their size. I have the 1937 and the 1944 in front of me and they look very different - 1937, with its cinchback looks much more vintage. The 1944 repros are quite plain looking (althou they have beautiful shirt fabric for the pocket linings).

    remember the weights vary too. Pre-1920s jeans have lighter wieght denim, 9oz (haven't checked), then 12.5 oz thereafter, altho repros tend to be nominallly 12 or 13oz.

    The pre 1870s, 1880s or 1900s jeans are all more anti-fit. Which means the ass is generally bigger. However, if you wear slightly low on the waist, the ass kinda hangs straight down and looks pretty good, not baggy. But if the sizing is only a little big, you will look like Crusty The CLown.

    1947 is different again, but is much more suited to a skinny fit. The legs are straight and narrow - and I would say that in LVC repros, the 1947 jeans seem to be cut a little smaller. Most people say they're the definitive postwar cut and I would agree, and they're definitely the most popular LVC repro right now - whereas a few years ago it was probably the cinchback jeans that most people went for.

    I don't know the 1955 jeans first hand, never tried em on, but word is they're a bit baggier while the 1960s jeans, if true to the original, should be a definite drainpipe.

    Lastly, one crucial thing I've noticed with a lot of recent LVC is that the distressed jeans seem to shrink. A LOT. The 1937 Indigo Heart repro, with an initial 36 waist, shrinks down to 32!

  7. Some people call those collar-less biker jackets Triumph jackets. THey're pretty common used, I have a couple, but I;m getting fed up of pockets with holes in, zips that don't work, and that musty old smell, so was planning to buy one from Aero in the fall. But I'm worried by the fact they have a "Happy Days' jacket in their line. I've seen the Schott ones at good prices, they're not as good quality but they're ok, but that was back when Canal jeans was in Manhattan.

    If there's anyone who wants an authentic leather Chicago cop jacket, PM me...

  8. Essentially, a baggier backside! The earliest Levi's were designed principally to minimise fabric usage and had a utilitarian cut. Later ones were more shaped and fitted. For the "anti fit' 501s, Levi's designer Gary Harvey introduced a straighter leg, like the 1947 501, a lower rise, like some Red jeans, and a less 'shaped' backside. When you wear them slightly oversize and low they loook good, and kind of hang straight down. But they can make your ass look big and baggy hahahha...

  9. They had dry 1947s at Cinch in London, but had sold of the popular sizes last week. At first they reckoned they wouldn't have new stock until December, but now the manager says a new delivery is imminent.

    They have noticed, as have I, a big switch in demand from the baggier, pre-war, back-cinch models to the trimmer 1947 look.

  10. 1947 are the classic slim cut. I haven't tried the repros myself, but historically the '60s version were also a skinny cut - more of a drainpipe. I think I've found the pattern maker for LVC for another project I'm working on, and it will be interesting to get her take on the different shapes.

    Does anyone know if all the LVC for the Japanese market are made in japan, or just some? The LVC I saw this spring in the UK were Japanese, but the fall jeans, as stocked in the UK, all seem to be American-made.

  11. Their men's stuff is inconsistent - there's really no coherent look - but their women's wear often has great items, for instance print dresses based on vintage originals, which are ludicrously priced. And did you ever see women wearing cool, vintage military jackets, from about two years ago, with '80s-looking 'Paul's Boutique' cloth badges etc? They were Topshop, I believe, for some ridiculously cheap price. Shame the designers and buyers in the men's ranges haven't caught up with them yet...

    Edited by Paul T on Sep 27, 2005 at 03:21 AM

  12. If you've got the 1st, you don't really need the 2nd - but take care of it, it will never be reprinted in the old size! THe new one is pocket-sized, the last chapter is updated, but no real major changes, and there's a visual gloassary in the back, showing details like rivets and back pocket stitching (!). The main difference really is the price, which I think is £7.99 in the UK

  13. Yesterday I fancied some cheap selvage for work around the house... to find that Uniqlo in London have only stopped doing selvage since the last time I went in.

    But I DID find some great, distressed selvage jeans from H&M. Good finish, not unlike the new 1937 Levi's repros. They were £12.99! Little selvage stripe on the watchpocket, and patterned (paisley) pocket linings like the 1940s 501. Amazing how they can do something as good as this, for that ridiculous price.

    Only small catch is they are for kids. Fortunately I have one, exactly for reasons such as this. But this has got to be the best example ever of how mainstream selvage has become...

  14. I'm sure they're fakes. I don't know of a LE 1955 repro. Current LE repro's have blank button stamps and no printing on the inside pocket. And the care label looks exactly like other fakes that have turned up. They're good tho. The leather-look patch looks authentic.

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