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Paul T

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Posts posted by Paul T

  1. Diesel's Old Glory range used denim from Legler in Italy, while Orta Mills in Turkey produce very nice ring ring denim for the BlueBell reissues. But there's more choice in Japanese mills, which produce shorter runs for the boutique manufacturers, which is probably why they're perceived as higher quality.

  2. He's jiving you. But I think levi's 201 from 1905 to the 30s have a crotch rivet, as do Lee 101 pants from the 30s, and, I would guess, many obscure brands from that period...

  3. Wider and looser, but not as loose as the 1930s jeans. They're actually sized a bit bigger all round (ie the waist is bigger) than the 47s, which are the slimmest Levi's shape. They're a nice cut, fairly straight leg, anti fit ass... but remember they're thinner, lighter denim, and they hang lower, so they might be a bit chilly if the snow comes back...

  4. Sounds like a fuckup - 1947 jeans should have single-sided tabs. My pair came from the UK and the tab is single-sided. I have, sadly, seen some gross errors on the new range of LVC due the spring... 1930s jeans with a 1950s arcuate. I know it sounds like a denim nerd complaint, but somehow they look wrong without your even having to think about it.

  5. I had the early euro reissues, whihc were in a sanforized fabric from Nisshinbo, which could - I am only guessing - be very similar to that on your jeans. I know they shrank, but it's impossible to know how much, because that would depend on how they were sized in the first place, but from the cuff-marks, I would guess around an inch and a half on the length. Traditionally, sanforized denim is supposed to shrink a maximum of 3 %, so I wouldn't count on getting more than that.

  6. They sound absolutely normal - if, by the top button being blank, you mean the inside of the button, which sometimes carries a factory code. AFAIK, all the new 1947s have no factory stamp and are made in the US in a non-LVC factory... there might be Japanese-made LVC versions that look slightly different but this is standard for the new product.

    Edited by Paul T on Nov 14, 2005 at 03:02 AM

  7. Yes, they're Valcnia-made, from 2003 before they closed the factory, probably just stock left in odd sizes. There was a nice tan 50s leather jacket, a good Western shirt, wide range of tees, certainly a more impressive range than spring/fall 2005. More details later if I get them...

  8. Only had the chance for a very quick look. But the new range includes a 1933 501, in rigid and distressed, which looks good; a 1930s 201 (nice fabric, but the back pocket looks wrong, both shape and arcuate look strange, and the arcuate is of a later design) and a 1955 501 (which I haven't seen, but it's a nice jean). Cinch in London have the 1930s 501 and 201 in stock now.

    I notice Cinch also have pulled out stock of their 1901 jean, probably valencia-made, which has some of the nicest raw denim I've seen of recent LVC - very dark, wears beautifully.

  9. Oh, and Jim, remember Levi's have always updated the fit of the 501 every decade or so. I personally am not a fan of the previous cut, which looked very 80s to me.

    Edited by Paul T on Nov 11, 2005 at 12:22 PM

  10. Anti fit is also more of a work wear thing, and the antithesis of that 80s, shaped look, which is why LS&Co are pushing it now. Levi's jeans' initial shape probably derived from military pants, and the cut itself is partly designed to minimise fabric usage. In my experience (and I'd be interested to see if other confirm this is correct), you can spot more antifit jeans from their profile by looking to see if the legs are more splayed.

  11. Whoops! Yes, I was thinking you meant the current reissue. I have a pair of both the 1901 deadstock, since washed, and the Indigo Immortal distressed version. I think they're both terrific and among thje better LVC product of the last few years. The deadstock is a very rich indigo dye; I've washed mine twice, and they've stayed very dark and high contrast with light wear coming through. THey will also be among the last Valencia-made jeans. They're not quite as oversized as, say, the 1933, althought they've noticeably more antifit, you have to wear them fairly low. I will try and post the actual size they shrink to later, because they don't shrink as much as some jeans. DO you mean you normally buy a 32 shrink to fit, ie a circa 30 waist? If so, the 34 tag size WILL be too big...

    Edited by Paul T on Nov 8, 2005 at 09:03 PM

  12. Legs are pretty straight. I don't see a real taper. Fairly antifit around the ass. It's a good cut, but depends on whether the size is right, it can look baggy, specially with one pocket, so I'd say you should really try before you buy.

  13. The 47 is slimmer fit and a narrower leg. I would say that the cut of the 44 isn't too different to the 37, it's more the detailing - lack of cinch etc - that differentiates it.

    With ALL LVC I wouldnt' recommend buying without trying them first, as they're not only shaped differently, they're sized differently - for instance, a 34 waist on the 47 is actually smaller than the 34 waist on the 33 jeans.

  14. Dry clean them. You do get whiskering eventually.

    In the end I suspect you'll give in and wash them conventionally, in which case use cold water to minimise shrinkage; then stretch them, perhaps by wearing them, as they dry. I rinsed my newish pair in coldish water for half an hour to get some shrinkage, shorten the legs a little bit, and they've shrunk by much less than 10 per cent... maybe five per cent.

  15. I am not certain, but given you haven't had an answer so far, I'd say I'm not sure they're sized small - I was just checking out a vintage example for a friend two weekends ago, and it was generously proportioned. Phone their London showroom, +44 20 7495 5897, and see what they say...

  16. "someone once mentioned that levi's has to release a certain number of jeans w/the red tab and no 'levis' to maintain the red tab itself as a trademark."

    That's correct, it stops anybody else using a red tab whatever the name on it - except in Japan, where I don't think they registered it in time. I think the blank tabs appeared from 1971-ish.

    XX does usually denote shrink to fits, but you can get shrink to fits without the XX, and there have been XX 501s that weren't shrink to fit.

  17. "True Religion = Instant Homosexual"

    In that case why aren't you wearing Wranglers, JC Penney, or something even more redneck? Jeez. Face it, if you're even looking at this site you're gayer than the average guy. Admit it & learn to love it.

    True Religion's premier lines are a rip-off of Leiv's RED, and they're over-priced. But who can blame them when it's so hard for most people to even get hold of RED??

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