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Few from this week in the 5150’s

From WAYWT

Still a beast. Orizzonti Type2

Denime - Arket - WMJ - Puma

Vintage Oshkosh jacket Vintage vest Levis shirt TCB 50s Blundstones

Fit pics and impressions of my Late S40s jeans. I absolutely love these jeans. This is my first pair of TCB (and first serious, specific repro jeans) and I'm really impressed, especially considering the sub-$200 price tag. I got this size 31 pair from Bears, and had them hemmed to 34", which is the ideal no-cuff length for me. This is an incredibly quirky pair, given the inspiration from the wartime S501xx. The flannel pocket bags are super cool, the sewing quirks charming and fun. In spite of the replication of the oddities of wartime jeans, these are obviously very well made. The denim is dark, hairy, and full of character, so I'm excited to see how it ages and how close it comes to some of the great-looking S501xx pairs I've seen online. The 13.5 oz weight is just about ideal to me nowadays, and is well suited to life in north Georgia where it's pretty warm most of the year. I like the fit a lot, too. The regular rise feels great, and though there's plenty of hip flare and room in the top, after a couple days of wear the fit has settled and I'm quite pleased with it. This is a pair that's easy to wear daily with all sorts of outfits. Highly recommended!

Wasn't expecting non-Levi's DSB's so these Cowboy's really piqued my interest: https://www.instagram.com/p/DFuS8wnTjVM/?img_index=1

The original leather on my WWII garrison belt finally cracked and split. It took a while, but finally found a maker who could replicate the 1.75" wide brown leather as used on the original. Here's a photo with the original all brass buckle attached.

Power to the Greenock ladies!

Thank you @beautiful_FrEaK! I do really like them! The fit is pretty comfortable. I could always go for more space in the top and a higher rise. But that is always the case. Give me a 13" rise and I'll still need more. I think these will really come into their own by spring/early summer, the fade on them will be getting really significant and they're a good weight for slightly warmer weather. Exciting.

Vintage Big Mac selvedge chambray shirt, Hollows Rail belt, TCB Late S40s, John Lofgren Steadfast boots.

John Chapman from Good Wear makes a great D-1 mechanics jacket in addition to his other offerings. It's a surprisingly lightweight but very warm jacket.

when I wore them first day after initial wash they were really snug in waist. After 16 days of wearing them, I can take them off without unbuttoning them easily. So belt is essential now...

People might be disappointed to see you come and go on something other than a motorcycle… edit: but to give you a serious answer I find diagonal zip jackets have quite a different shape when worn open, that would be the main difference imo and is overall a matter of taste and coherence with the rest of your wardrobe (although a leather jacket is about as versatile as it gets imo!)

Phigvel chino workaday trousers just came in. I wanted a military looking chino. These were my grails that were non-denim.

I really like how these turned out for everyone. I snoozed too long during the signup period and missed out, but I'm enjoying watching the progress. They're definitely something that I would consider on my own steam at some point.

I’ve been nerding out about sign painting this week, after finishing a big series of signs for a farm on the Oaxaca coast I’ve been working at since January. Here are a few of those: Afterwards I rode up to Oaxaca on my way to Mexico City, stopping at a postal museum on the way that happened to have a small sign painting exhibition: And last night got to go to the opening of an amazing show featuring dozens of sign painters from around Mexico, including some who work in near-forgotten styles, such as the man who painted the signs on the right side of this pic: I love the top right one, it says: “Life is a popsicle; it’s melting whether you suck it or not”! The artist of these signs was in attendance but had a mob of people around him asking for pictures, lol … surely enjoying the resurgence in interest in sign painting, i hope! A close up of some lettering done on a small mirror, maybe 50cm across. i actually didn’t get any other photos besides these, but will add some more on a different day as the show will be up all month. Anyway, thanks for looking!

Warehouse Bodies wool jacket came in earlier in the week and I am having trouble getting it dry cleaned because of the leather piping on the pockets. No care tag to be found and not sure of the details from Warehouse regarding when it was made, etc. Does anyone have any info on this jacket that may be helpful?

@vIGGiou riou Something I never see mentioned around here but which I find extremely handy is a pants stretcher. I got one off Amazon maybe five years ago after being previously unaware such a thing existed. Oftentimes the waist on a pair is a little tight relative to the rest for me to get my desired fit - or, as seems to be more often the case, the waist measurement turns out smaller than advertised. So while the jeans are wet from a wash, or after soaking the waistband under the faucet for a one-wash pair, I put in the stretcher, set it to the proper measurement, let the pants dry, and the waist fits just right. It might get there eventually regardless, but I don't really want to endure 2-3 weeks of an uncomfortable fit every time I wash my jeans, so I've found this to be a nice workaround.

I'm increasingly convinced after this pic that one of the best ways to rock double denim is to introduce a nice pop of colour elsewhere, like that great yellow hat. Love the fit.

i found and translated this from this video and it's the single most useful thing i've found to help me navigate the world of 1001xx lol

Tilley / Great Lakes / Ballpark / Hollows / Word of Mouth / Frank’s

all hand cut and hand stitched

Vintage P44 Mfsc

Monsivais cap, SC liner coat, WOM, White's

Recently stumbled upon these: Good Old Co.. They have a 1943XX jeans. And a 1942XX denim jacket.

Workshop fit surplus, mannufaturra ceccallini , fullcount, vans, non vis Jameson, William lockie because I’d rather take something off than have it cold

The other jeans were I encountered a similar button rust this quick were TCB

at one of the oldest chinese restos in jaktown for our 16th anni dindin in my khaki wallaby shirt

fit check. guess the drip. context: this was for a high society jaksel (south jakarta) wedding at our moma (tiny) where the dress code was strictly all black except for the bride who wore white. i was the witness for the bride. later on i went to a cocktail bar still in the same outfit.

OA01XX-0522 XX4 update 8 to 10 months of usage approximately

runabout goods denim chinos. Actually the only chinos I own. Great cut and fade very nicely

The Worcester hunting jacket, my favorite of all time!

Greek Fisherman's Cap Vtg Vanderbilt Wool Western Yoke jacket Corduroy trucker Santa Fe Speedway reprint tee Painted belt Bronson MFG 1936 101b Lee-pro. 1960s Frye

Went to our local ruin

Went for coffee. Came home with an Airforce Duffle bag for £35! Looks issued but unused. Mint condition. Fairly modern I assume. Has a very faint Airforce stamp on it. Great red contrast stitching, for no reason is my guess. I assume its for flight kit like helmet and overalls? ‘Kitbag Flyers’

another week. Another fade drop on the denim work tux. Getting epic already

Great points, the subject of the formality of jeans, or lack thereof, is a fascinating topic. I think a crucial aspect of this is the color, detailing, and cut of a given pair. A dark, classic 501-type straight fit is extremely versatile and while I wouldn't say it really looks formal in any context, you can easily dress it up with a nice pair of shoes, a sport shirt, and jacket of some sort, so you look well put together on date night, at church, teaching the class, or whatever. A well-kept, naturally faded pair is almost as versatile. Where things get a bit iffy is with obviously with torn-up or distressed jeans, but also, I'd argue, with a lot of mid-blue prewashed jeans. The average prewashed pair tends to have this very flat and processed sort of appearance and shapeless, floppy drape that has more of a pajama or leisure wear kind of quality to it. Even if you just wear a pair of TCB 50s or Sugar Cane 1947 and wash them once a week it's still going to look and fit way better than floppy mall jeans after a year. Personally, I can't stand leisure wear not because I'm opposed to being comfortable, but because I hate polyester and floppy shapeless clothing. There's an interesting parallel between the rise of jeans and "work wear" as everyday casual clothing coinciding with a romanticizing of the rugged working man as an ideal in an increasingly urbanized and white-collar context post-World War II, and the rise of leisure wear as everyday casual clothing coinciding with "being in the gym/exercising/active" as an aspirational lifestyle when the norm is for middle and upper class people to be fat and sitting on their butts in front of a computer screen all day. Going around all day in Lululemon or whatever sends the message that you've Made It enough to enjoy the privilege of free time enough for exercising and sculpting your ideal physique. Most of this is happening on the subconscious level, but I think there's definitely something there. Other, related historical instance: when agrarian work was the norm, fair skin was the beauty ideal because it signaled you were above laboring in the sun all day, and when industrialism and the rise of white-collar work made indoor labor the norm, tanning because a status symbol because you had wealth and leisure time to relax on the beach and all that.

I wear what I wear because I like it. That's always been the case… from being a young lad with a very keen interest in clothes and how they fit and feel.... and there's no sign of that stopping. I couldn't give a shit who likes it or doesn't, nor where I get fit ideas from – they all come from somewhere. There's been some great (and less great) stuff on Sufu over the years and notably on the internet (looking at you Instagram) – I’m grateful for it all. But let’s face it, the jeans and jackets I (we) wear might have been made by FW, SC, Denime or (select one from many many brands) within the last 20 years or so, but they’re repros of jeans from c80 years ago i.e. not exactly new ideas anyone can claim rights to. It’s all borrowed, unless you were primo, which non of us are old enough to be! On Sufu, we’re a cast of 25 or so regular posters, up to maybe a crowd of maybe 50 on a very good week – brand or fit popularity in this micro-world is an irrelevant ‘so-what’ in everyday life. In northern Enger-land, in real life, I can recollect hardly anyone (maybe a few people) wearing the gear I wear. Mavis on checkout 9 hasn’t got a scoobies. If you're confident enough to carry off your clothes - and I apply this to anyone of any clothing genre and any age as I don't see barriers - then that shines through and good on yer. I certainly don't like all choices but I don't have to and, vice-versa, neither does anyone else... now that would be odd. Ahhhh so this is why it’s called the General Nonsense thread! Long live Sufu!

I too had a period, let's call it 2016-2022, when denim was put on the back burner for more comfortable items like stretch waistband Uniqlo slacks and easy pants (styled with outdoor/tech wear), but also came full circle. Things got a bit too cosplay and stale for me if I'm being honest. Now I'd say I sort of just mix everything, with a focus on comfort, but have to admit that paying attention to trends and mixing in some of those "fashionable" items has kept things more fun, if not admittedly more capitalist lol. For example, I don't think I've ever loved a belt as much as my OUR LEGACY 2CM belt. I still mix in the odd Arcteryx jacket etc. for practicality (spend a good amount of time outdoors), but maybe layered with some army surplus, reverse weave sweatshirts, and some Alden's to clean it all up. But yeah, I'm definitely happier with my outfits now and have basically settled on this "look".

LVC sweatshirt, At Last Co. 147’s (size 30), Converse The 147’s did not shrink anywhere near as much as I had expected so I’m holding off hemming until the next wash or two. Not a fan of cuffs but I pressed them this time and think it doesn’t look half bad

A few details after a very cold 15min soak. Patch and Pizza details Unfinished Fly and the top button stitching Yellow and black waistband and belt loop stitching Off set left side belt loop Single needle cinch

How are y'all feeling about the way you currently dress?... back when i was 20, i'd consider myself cutting edge.. i dressed like a cutting edge 20yr old, none of my clothing was easy to obtain or bought without careful consideration (i certainly wasn't shopping at Top Man) by the time i was 30, i dressed like a cutting edge 30yr old.. ie- 1940s Japanese repro sweatshirt, 1940s Japanese repro denim and old timey, handmade 40s era repro boots.. again, nothing one could buy on the highstreet. Coming here 15yrs ago, we were as cool as fuck but i've been stuck in this fucking loop of a rut for what feels like forever... we've all got old and the cool sufu style of days gone by is now just considered dad-wear The answer used to be 'just buy more stuff' which i did, but i was always bought stuff in our same 'repro' style which by now was already becoming pretty washed.. my journey through fashions was always organic and linked to my lifestyle.. when i was a young teenager, i would buy jeans from Bankrupt clothing, the brand was often irrelevant, as long as they fitted and looked dope, followed by (amongst others) >X for fashion / going out rave club wear, >skateboard / BMX jeans, Girl, Droors, Silas ect.. >vintage Levi's.. >LVC and finally JP repros all within a 15yr time span.. then my journey through fashion just stopped. JP repros are everything i ever want in a pair of jeans, they look great and fit my criteria perfectly.. i'm not looking for anything else but my god am i fucking bored! ! ! I looked at waywt probably 3 times last year and zero times this.. some handsome dude in a well worn pair of repros, a nicely fitted sweatshirt and a scuffed up pair of boots would make me go all gooey inside.. now it just makes me sigh.. We can never move on from this.. the brands are feeling it too with their imagined 1940, 41,42,43,44,45,46,47,48,49,50,51,52,53,54,55,56,57,58,59 and so on, repros.. they've milked the style for everything it's worth.. i can count on one hand how many threads i currently read and 3 of them have nothing to do with clothing.. so is this it now for me.., i'll still be wearing this same old 'stuck in 2009' shit when i'm 60? You might say just go buy some Techwear, Gucci or Maison Margiela for a change.., but i'm not that shallow that i would just buy into a brand that i have no affiliation with, it has to be part of my lifestyle.. i'm not the Gucci type, i'm just a bored sufuer..

Late 40s jacket arrived in today. Super crispy still and in need of breaking in but very happy with the shorter fit compared to my 20s and all the ww2 detailing! The denim has a bit of a redder hue and is simple but hairy. Wrestled with getting the cinch back to buckle properly a bit but looking forward to wearing this practically daily going forward.

Start me up KC

Lovely kitty!

Sorry for the lack of posts lately, things are very busy personally and with Tender- it feels like forever, but we've still only been in the US five months! Thank you so much @julian-wolf @chicote and @clawbytes for fantastic photos. More things coming, but in case it's of interest to anyone, I'm doing a project with students at University of Wisconsin-Madison, and will be doing a public talk on Tuesday Feb 4th at 3.30 Central Time. It'll be livestreamed and there's a signup here: https://cdmc.wisc.edu/event/understandable-design-and-perfect-imperfections-with-william-kroll-of-tender-co/ I'm putting together a bunch of Tender garments and my own things, which I'll show and discuss. Hopefully it'll be interesting!