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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/01/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Some of you might be interested: I'm working with Tilak to release their samples, prototypes, and seconds of their Poutnik and Japan-only line. First drop (pretty much everything is size S-M; sorry big bois) is available now at https://www.oddelene.com/tilak
  2. 2 points
    Sharing on behalf of @benta9000.
  3. 2 points
    Another month, another wash.
  4. 2 points
    Thanks to both @chaosen and @alavkx for great transactions.
  5. 2 points
    WTT: A) My J1A-LP sz S (9/10 No packing) for your p30a-ds (sz S or M) + USD 400 A1) J1A-LP SZ S FOR J53TS-GT SZ S (shipping on sender respectively) b) My J1a-lp (sz S) PLUS j1a-gt v2.2 (sz S/M) (YES, 2 FOR 1) for your Cp2-ss size M (9/10 above)+ USD 500 C) my cp2-ss sz L (9.5/10) for your cp2-ss sz M (9/10 above). Shipping on me. OTHER TO COULD BE TRADED OF IT INTERESTS YOU BELOW (TERMS TO BE DISCUSSED), not incline to sell: NG4-PS NEW NG9-PS P23A-DS SZ S J47A-GT SZ M J47r-gt sz M J1A-GT SZ S AND M V2.2 J54-lp sz M J1ts-s both colour available P24A-DS SZ M P27H-DS sz S J61-GT SZ S J36-S BLK SZ M J36-S.BI- COLOUR (BOTH BI AVAILABLE) SZ M J36-GT (SZ M) 7/10 INSIDE, 9/10 APPEARANCE J65-WS SZ M 9.9/10 J65-AK SZ M NO PACKING J28-GT SZ S P10a-ds sz M P25-DS (old version) 3a-1 RAF 3A-1 OG XPAC 3A-1 2018 XPAC BLK 3A-1 L1 (NO PACKING) 3a-3ts black xpac 2018 3A-5TS 2018 XPAC BLK 3A-6TS BLK FOIL MK1 XPAC BLK new Mk1 L2 new MK3 XPAC BLK new Mz4 Mz2 raf Mp2ts new
  6. 2 points
    Cool video does not help answer the question of which is in SC denim but is informative all the same:
  7. 2 points
    Warehouse 2002XX/Outlier/Orslow/Paraboot
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Looks like the jeans are in production.
  10. 1 point
    It's lovely. The mainline had a similar shade called Sultan's Palace - Trying to curb my enthusiasm for the denim..!
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    alright There are acrnm samples
  13. 1 point
    At last co 118j FW 601xx 1947
  14. 1 point
    S510XX 19oz post soak fit. Threw them in the washer and dryer to shrink them up and they fit really well, just a little wrinkly from the dryer. Love this denim
  15. 1 point
    I also bought the J59-GTand can whole heartedly agree with peoples opinions. I didnt get the TS version from last year so was excited to cop this. year. I love the over sized fit and the shock cord really does change the profile; I prefer it cinched in tight so it fits more profile from the back. To my shame ive only worn it twice because of the heat, but it will be getting a lot of wear come September and on. super nice piece with a lot of nice touches and I like the crinkleness of the GT pro. I prefer it sans hood as an MA-1
  16. 1 point
    MAKERSxJelado horsebutt engineer boots in 10 inch and 11 inch are for sale on Wolf Pack. https://global.rakuten.com/en/store/wolfpack/item/makers-10-engineer/ https://global.rakuten.com/en/store/wolfpack/item/makers-11-engineer/
  17. 1 point
    Representing Wisconsin' best - Oshkosh vintage chambray shirt. So soft and comfy that it runs like butter. LVC 1955 Rigid. Sub 14060 (97')
  18. 1 point
    Working on my Duck Diggers, perfect with a white t.
  19. 1 point
    I'm pretty happy with my Slim Fatigue Pants. Fit just like I hoped they would. Also featuring some serious sunburn I got during a festival last weekend
  20. 1 point
    Tcb 20s/30s tux Bob Dong white tee Excelsior
  21. 1 point
    Haha all too trye @schmallo15 We'll probably go down that route. Btw, today is the last day to preorder, so don't sleep on it if you're still on the fence. Can't wait to get this started!
  22. 1 point
    Some more information on the new Warehouse denim taken from a few staff blog posts. Please excuse the google translate “Since the newly developed denim is more than 14 oz, many people may be familiar with the 14.5 oz fabric familiar with the Lot 800XX etc. However, it is not that the feeling of Zara is strong so far and personally with the Lot 1001 XX etc. I feel that the familiar 13.5 ounces of dough are tightly packed. I think that the color is clearly darker than the 13.5 ounce fabric, but it seems that since the core of the thread is still clearly white, sharp color loss can be expected.” ”And attention is the analysis of wartime Vinteji-Denim, and it is a new 14 oz strength new denim fabric woven with yarn of vertical 6.7 × horizontal 6.6.” “By performing the refining process before the rope dyeing in normal temperature water instead of the general high temperature, the "white-white yarn" in which white clearly appears in the center of the yarn is faithful to the 40's Vinte di denim vertical yarn. I reproduce it. By increasing the concentration of the indigo dye, the contrast with the white part of the yarn comes out clearly, and you can expect a sharp decoloration like Vinte-Ji Denim in the 40's.”
  23. 1 point
    Lot 162 On and off gentle wear over the past 6 months... in rotation with others evenings and weekends Not much going on yet Tho the popping blueness on the back belt loop promises much
  24. 1 point
    top row, left to right: unknown maker, the hobnail boots i recently purchased (1940s - 1950s), great britain alfred sargent, kelso (2010), great britain léopold marbot, m-1965 rangers (1974), france paul valdener, m-1961 rangers (1963), france unknown maker, m-1957 boots (1963), netherlands unknown maker (e.n.p.), m-1945 boots (1955), france middle row, left to right: norrøna, m-1939 boots (1943), norway (swedish army) unknown maker, hiking boots (1930s - 1940s), germany unknown maker, work boots (1930s - 1940s), germany red wing × j. crew, 4183 (2007), usa nordsko, m-1939 boots (1942), sweden true-form boot (john george sears), cc-1941 utility boots (1940s), great britain lotus, durham (1960s), great britain bottom row, left to right: walk-over custom grade, broadway (1940s - 1950s), usa tecnic, aldershot (1980s), great britain unknown maker, work boots (1930s - 1940s), germany
  25. 1 point
    @Aries lawyer’s answer, in short: it depends—on the purpose, or product category, rather; on the kind of intended use etc. given that this is a thread about shoes and boots, i take it that properties of leather used for upholstery aren’t going to be of much interest to most. keep in mind that despite my previous job mentioned above i neither am nor do i consider myself an authority of any sort on the matter, i just voice personal preference. i am located in germany; there is a highly recommended website run by a german tanner who also serves as an expert for a regional branch of the german chamber of commerce and industry, called stefan banaszak: lederpedia (in german only). also a good reference is leder-info (in german, english, french and polish), it includes informative illustrations and videos. for english speaking folks, leather worker and american leather chemists association provide good info (the latter should be responsive enough to people who inquire by email). the problem nowadays is that everybody chimes in and speaks their piece online, half truths, misinformation, facts all wonderfully blended together. try separating the ingredients of a smoothie. here is a nice example of what i mean: quite the mix, really! i especially like his interjections of »you know« when he doesn’t know how to specifically address something. (i just watched the first four minutes). just for clarification: if you want info on leather (or any natural resource/raw material), go to the respective industry or association/union web sites, where there is no hidden agenda or veiled interest in regard to the information shared. vendors, manufacturers, retailers, and so-called »influenzas« (because this hobby and non-job spreads like a disease) will tell you all kinds of fluffy stuff, because they want to make money, ideally off of you. if you want reliable information, always search for sources that earn their money elswhere, so they have no reason selling you ducksoup. full grain, yes. most expensive if required without defects, yes. better than corrected grain? not so fast. up to this point, this is all about choices regarding appearance, not durability or material quality. see @CrashTestBrummie’s informative post on veldtschoen construction boots in the »edward green« thread at style forum (great pictures, and now i know who beat me to the punch on these beva boots when they were offered on ebay!): comparison of zug leather edward green is not the cheapest of makers, yet the boots in question sport corrected grain leather (as do my hobnail boots and tecnic shoes above, vintage lotus boots and so forth). the leather is still very good and not worse than full grain. again, different purpose (pattern, uniform appearance), that’s basically it. good entry on the shoe snob blog: myth buster: corrected grain is always bad now, split grain … yes. split grain is a cut corner, and less durable than full grain or corrected grain. you will find countless self-proclaimed fashion aficionados lecturing you on how inferior this layer compared to the former two is, while at the same time drooling over suede and its appearance and softness … but here’s the shocking revelation: split grain is suede. the reason i mention it is this: viberg chelsea boot for some € 640, selling for the same price as grain leather, nice one. couldn’t find info on whether it’s full grain or corrected grain (which more likely). not a viberg fan myself, obviously: they’re mostly about marketing hype and price hiking to my mind (i read a few interviews with brett viberg which i quoted in the thread some years ago). the area from which you take your pick is important, because the characteristics vary depending from which part of the hide you cut your piece. take a look at the soles of your feet and at the crooks of your arms—very different skin. for most shoes the shoulder part of the cow hide. belly is too stretchy and uneven, more suited for accessories or upholstery purposes. for hiking and hardcore boots that are supposed to make your feet bleed, the butt (and make them real thick, too). you can influence a lot of the characteristics with tanning techniques as well. hope that did at least partially answer your question. add-on: i’ll post pictures of my vintage boots later, only 3 or so cost more than € 100 - € 120. many were not cared for particularly well. some are pretty stiff, some are still pliable and supple. but all are very much usable and wearable from an upper leather perspective (quite a few of them need resoling). if you take into consideration that they’re all between 50 to 80 years old, that’s proven good leather—and it needn’t be expensive, either. of course, priorities were different then, and you didn’t have an entire crowd (myself included) fixated on »heritage« and rugged-looking footwear. the irony is that the original boots and shoes were meant for work and physical labor or had to serve a specific purpose (military, safety gear et al). the aesthetics of stitching lines and sole decoration would have been laughed at, as they are not indicative of or relevant to material quality and functionality. most of today’s customers just want that look, they have never worked on a ranch, oil platform or in a factory (as a student, i worked in one, very important experience), so they don’t understand the history behind the design and concept of the particular shoe they’re after. or how a chelsea boot originated as a boot for equestrians … funny how times change. cordovan (as a final point), is a pure luxury item, because it’s made out of workhorses ass cheeks, so there’s not much to begin with. all horse leather can be (and is) used for shoe production, it’s wonderful leather with a distinct surface and, later, patina. do you know how much a square meter costs at a tannery? € 40 (in words: forty euros), that’s less than cow leather (depending on the tanning) … i know, because i asked (specifically regarding cordovan), i could’ve literally taken a car load with me … but then again, i don’t wear shoes that big.