Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/14/2019 in all areas

  1. 44 points
    Wanted to share my thoughts on the 76 after about a month of use Been looking for an everyday type shell to replace my j1a-gt that’s a bit more low-key on design but still has the utility. Looks wise it reminds me of the 32 + elements of the 66. The 43/47 are a little too plain for me, but this strikes a nice balance between clean silhouette / storage / features. So lets talk zippers since that's the main selling point on this one. No soft plastic on the tips is great and makes one handed operation easy. Haven’t got caught as much as I thought since they lay flatter and they're not double zips like normal gravity pockets which tend to catch on most things. There is a slight snugness right at the arm joints and under the pit - no loss in mobility, just a bit of stiffness from the lamination. The holster pockets are roomy and extend far back. This can make it a bit awkward reaching smaller items at times. They can fit 2 point n shoots and don’t get in the way of arms when walking. I like having the weight distributed up here instead of lower so it doesn't weigh the jacket down and you don't feel it sag as much. Can't really access the right one if you're wearing a bag though. I like the vents as I usually run hot and works well lined with the short sleeve 65. New cinch cuff design is great. I usually never have to adjust the cuffs, but the cut is wider in the openings so even when you do cinch, you can still use the gravity pocket which was an issue with previous designs. Can also use gravity pockets with a liner attached due to the wide cuff design. You don't have to fold over the cuff to tighten - it kind of auto cinches, so when you pull the tab the cuff tightens and you can do it with one hand. Maybe not exclusive to this jacket, but the new storm hood is also great. It's deep, but conforms to the shape of your head well even when you move up and down and still gives you peripheral vision with enough overhang in front keeping the rain off your face. Expansion zip does help with interops if that's your thing. I usually wear it lined so it's a moot point. As someone had commented earlier, I do wish it had a secondary zip for helping you when you sit. I do miss the chest to neck zip like on the j1 since I like to wear things half open, but the 2 cf closures do a good enough job. Things I didn't like about the j1a gt (2.0) - Short storm hood, never felt it really did a good job, mostly wore it without. Never used any of the pockets except for flak. I found them too profile so fitting hands in them was tight / mezz pocket behind the flak usually had things falling out when bending over. All other gimmicks improved upon with the 76 (interops, gravity, cuff, storage, hood...) Biggest thing was probably sizing though since it was a small. Found it too tight to layer with the 58 and 65 and didn't like how snug it started to fit overall. So went with a medium in the 76 for more room and have been much happier. More pics here: https://imgur.com/a/uyvbYff
  2. 42 points
    1003s after 2 years or so
  3. 41 points
  4. 38 points
    J16 journey through the years. SS-J16/LRG jeans/Black cement IIIs GT-J16/P10TS-DS/LF1 J16-GT/P10A-E/AVM
  5. 36 points
    Hey guys! Hope you are well. Haven’t really posted much here because I’ve been spending time working on this app with a really great team. The tech wear community has given me so much and I’ve been thinking long and hard about what to give back. Hopefully this app helps you connect with other great people online, like I’ve been given the opportunity. If you want to go fast, go alone. If you want to go far, go together. Idk about you guys, but I’ve always wanted an easy to use database to find older pieces or find out more about the brand or see other outfit photos using the pieces. I’ve also had trouble on instagram (as I’m sure you all have as well) with people not knowing what pieces of clothing I’m wearing and get asked a million questions about my clothes even though the info is in the caption or whatever. So I present to you, IDENTIFY [ ID for short :P/ dont need to venmo me ] Currently you can - Share Outfits - Browse and add to a large database of items (acronym, veilance, outlier, etc) with more items being added daily - Join and create mini communities We’re finally opening the beta version up for people to test and I would love for you guys to try it out first. Here is the install link to the apple or play store: https://link.identify.fit/sufu-open-beta Please feel free to reach out to me with any feedback or suggestions you guys may have at [email protected] Thank you all!!!! Have fun, connect, learn, live, laugh, love or whatever. - Valdizbro ps. erlsn on the app is the real one
  6. 33 points
    My 50s slim update. Trying to sun fade them this summer by just leaving them outside in every condition. Well see how they turn out!
  7. 32 points
    a chilly fourth of july on the northern california coast archival effector warehouse hollows OA red wing
  8. 32 points
    effector aw warehouse duck digger belly full of bbq tofu belt not needed ooe yofukuten OA01XX-1217 paraboot chambord
  9. 31 points
    J67 arrived! Fit doesn’t seem to match the measurements on the site—it’s right in line with the J69. Fits like a lightweight, weatherproof hoodie. I’m a big fan of the material. Apologies that the hair is obscuring the hood.
  10. 31 points
    Triffer hat Deluxeware sweat Tcb 50s
  11. 30 points
    1702XX contest jeans 25-30 washes since April 2016
  12. 29 points
    less talk more fits (especially j68-ws) For reference, I'm 5'5 and wearing XS in the p10a-ds j68-ws (XS) 2L infinium ws is amazing, really happy i decided to hold out for this iteration over the stotz. More similar to j46u's smooth/silent face fabric than j61-ws/j47a-ws. Only issue is the body is really short(copped the wrong size imo). Would appreciate if anybody of similar height could comment on how Small fits in comparison. j36 bicolor (S)
  13. 29 points
    @Aries lawyer’s answer, in short: it depends—on the purpose, or product category, rather; on the kind of intended use etc. given that this is a thread about shoes and boots, i take it that properties of leather used for upholstery aren’t going to be of much interest to most. keep in mind that despite my previous job mentioned above i neither am nor do i consider myself an authority of any sort on the matter, i just voice personal preference. i am located in germany; there is a highly recommended website run by a german tanner who also serves as an expert for a regional branch of the german chamber of commerce and industry, called stefan banaszak: lederpedia (in german only). also a good reference is leder-info (in german, english, french and polish), it includes informative illustrations and videos. for english speaking folks, leather worker and american leather chemists association provide good info (the latter should be responsive enough to people who inquire by email). the problem nowadays is that everybody chimes in and speaks their piece online, half truths, misinformation, facts all wonderfully blended together. try separating the ingredients of a smoothie. here is a nice example of what i mean: quite the mix, really! i especially like his interjections of »you know« when he doesn’t know how to specifically address something. (i just watched the first four minutes). just for clarification: if you want info on leather (or any natural resource/raw material), go to the respective industry or association/union web sites, where there is no hidden agenda or veiled interest in regard to the information shared. vendors, manufacturers, retailers, and so-called »influenzas« (because this hobby and non-job spreads like a disease) will tell you all kinds of fluffy stuff, because they want to make money, ideally off of you. if you want reliable information, always search for sources that earn their money elswhere, so they have no reason selling you ducksoup. full grain, yes. most expensive if required without defects, yes. better than corrected grain? not so fast. up to this point, this is all about choices regarding appearance, not durability or material quality. see @CrashTestBrummie’s informative post on veldtschoen construction boots in the »edward green« thread at style forum (great pictures, and now i know who beat me to the punch on these beva boots when they were offered on ebay!): comparison of zug leather edward green is not the cheapest of makers, yet the boots in question sport corrected grain leather (as do my hobnail boots and tecnic shoes above, vintage lotus boots and so forth). the leather is still very good and not worse than full grain. again, different purpose (pattern, uniform appearance), that’s basically it. good entry on the shoe snob blog: myth buster: corrected grain is always bad now, split grain … yes. split grain is a cut corner, and less durable than full grain or corrected grain. you will find countless self-proclaimed fashion aficionados lecturing you on how inferior this layer compared to the former two is, while at the same time drooling over suede and its appearance and softness … but here’s the shocking revelation: split grain is suede. the reason i mention it is this: viberg chelsea boot for some € 640, selling for the same price as grain leather, nice one. couldn’t find info on whether it’s full grain or corrected grain (which more likely). not a viberg fan myself, obviously: they’re mostly about marketing hype and price hiking to my mind (i read a few interviews with brett viberg which i quoted in the thread some years ago). the area from which you take your pick is important, because the characteristics vary depending from which part of the hide you cut your piece. take a look at the soles of your feet and at the crooks of your arms—very different skin. for most shoes the shoulder part of the cow hide. belly is too stretchy and uneven, more suited for accessories or upholstery purposes. for hiking and hardcore boots that are supposed to make your feet bleed, the butt (and make them real thick, too). you can influence a lot of the characteristics with tanning techniques as well. hope that did at least partially answer your question. add-on: i’ll post pictures of my vintage boots later, only 3 or so cost more than € 100 - € 120. many were not cared for particularly well. some are pretty stiff, some are still pliable and supple. but all are very much usable and wearable from an upper leather perspective (quite a few of them need resoling). if you take into consideration that they’re all between 50 to 80 years old, that’s proven good leather—and it needn’t be expensive, either. of course, priorities were different then, and you didn’t have an entire crowd (myself included) fixated on »heritage« and rugged-looking footwear. the irony is that the original boots and shoes were meant for work and physical labor or had to serve a specific purpose (military, safety gear et al). the aesthetics of stitching lines and sole decoration would have been laughed at, as they are not indicative of or relevant to material quality and functionality. most of today’s customers just want that look, they have never worked on a ranch, oil platform or in a factory (as a student, i worked in one, very important experience), so they don’t understand the history behind the design and concept of the particular shoe they’re after. or how a chelsea boot originated as a boot for equestrians … funny how times change. cordovan (as a final point), is a pure luxury item, because it’s made out of workhorses ass cheeks, so there’s not much to begin with. all horse leather can be (and is) used for shoe production, it’s wonderful leather with a distinct surface and, later, patina. do you know how much a square meter costs at a tannery? € 40 (in words: forty euros), that’s less than cow leather (depending on the tanning) … i know, because i asked (specifically regarding cordovan), i could’ve literally taken a car load with me … but then again, i don’t wear shoes that big.
  14. 29 points
  15. 28 points
    https://www.instagram.com/p/Bx4ieTCoPqq/ A little more than a year, washed every 14-20 wears approx.
  16. 28 points
    My turn Jamesfabled (shop in Osaka) 1001XX around 2005 Love the "Praide in Kojima"
  17. 28 points
    ^what did you do? There you go: My usual routine is to soak the jeans inside out in a bucket to make them more pliable abd then put them directly in the washing machine. My washing machine has a rinsing program so the jeans were rinsed with clear water to remove the starch and sizing agents. I left them in the spin cycle at 400 rpm to get the mostz moisture out of the fabric. Afterwards I hang them to dry. Here are the measurements so you can see how much they shrank (raw/onewash) Waist: 37.5" / 34" Front rise: 14" / 13" Back rise: 17.5" / 16.75" Hips: 22" / 21.25" Thigh: 13.75" / 12.9" Knee: 10.5" / 9.75" Leg opening: 9.4" / 9" Inseam: 36.25" / 33.75" And the fit pics after the soak/wash
  18. 28 points
    As Lopiteaux said above, it very much depends on the trouser. The P10-DS is still the comfiest pant I have ever worn, I sold my Stotz and CH versions (still have the epic) , I just don't think the rigidity of the material suits the cut. If you've ever tried running up a flight of stairs in both, you'll know exactly what I'm talking about. As another example, I sold my P24A-DS and kept the Stotz. The rigidity of Stotz suits the bigger cut much better imo, and gives the trouser a much stronger look, whereas the DS collapses almost into a sweatpant style. That said, the 24A-DS was my favourite travel pant for a while, ample storage for passports and documents and super comfy for long flights. I could go on, P17 - I prefer the DS over the Stotz for super comfy summer pants. P30 - I prefer the CH over the DS, the shape and drape hold better in CH. You get the idea, different pants suit different materials better, but at the end of the day, it's just whatever works best for you.
  19. 27 points
    No1 Lot 2000. Two years, fourteen washes, I think. Please click here for lots more photos!
  20. 27 points
    Not sure if the P-32s have been discussed much here, but in case they haven’t... They are cut long (I’ve been rolling them at the cuff to help with the length and give a bit more taper), and are looser than I expected. Looser than the P-23A, you certainly don’t have to worry about sizing for calves with these. I like how they sit on the hip, pocket placements are easy to access and don’t feel like they dip too low. A little unsure about the relative lack of taper down the leg, but I’m going to keep them and see how I feel after a few times out.
  21. 26 points
  22. 26 points
    Went to bangkok last week for brief visit
  23. 25 points
    Took a couple of quick phone pics of my DD-1001XX (1947) jeans. I've had them since May 2018, but didn't wear them all the time. Washed only a few times because I didn't do any strenuous work in them. I went for a size bigger (32 instead of 31) and have been wearing them with a belt as you might be able to tell from the waistband folds. It's made them a really easy pair of jeans to wear, especially in the summer time! Would liked to have nabbed the 1946 jeans in the newer denim, but opted for a pair of IH jeans for the winter time.
  24. 25 points
    TCB luandry day 60's and 50's
  25. 25 points
    RMC N3 (inc close ups of olive fabric aging & seam puckering) Merz Aviators RMC daisy mae IH Roy Viberg