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I'm in a reflective mood today.. In the early to mid 90s i was living in a shithole of a bedsit and barely affording my £28/wk rent.. when it came to buying clothes, my budget wouldn't stretch to new so i just bought vintage.. In the days before the internet, i had no clue as to what i was buying other than the fact they were old Levi's and a quarter of the price of the 501s you could buy on the high street.. A couple of years passed and i started to earn a bit more £££s.. i bought a pair of 555 LVC-47s.. in retrospect, this was probably the first time it occured to me that the vintage Levi's i'd been buying previously could be from different eras (ikr? .. you internet kids don't know you're born) around 2003 i bought another pair of LVC and wanted to get them hemmed.. back then I didn't know what a Union Special was, all i knew was i wanted the hem to be the same as the existing hem.. ie- 'not single stitch' .. i took them to a laundrette who did alterations but they said they couldn't do it.. i would have to find someone with a machine that could chainstitch.. i went down to Ted Williams.. a proper old boys tailor on London Rd who said he could chainstitch but it wouldn't look exactly the same because the hem was done with a chainstitching machine rather than a sewing machine with a chainstitch setting.. plus he didn't think his needles would be strong enough to penetrate the layers of denim.. more confused than ever, i found myself down a gennel and up a rickety fire escape to Terrace Tailors on a Sheffield backstreet.. the room had a massive cross on the wall with candles either side and a polaroid of the tailor himself kissing the hand of Pope John Paul II ..? I explained what i wanted and tape measure around his neck. he took me into another room with a rail full of clothing.. top rail was garments waiting to be altered, bottom rail was altered.. (this is the single most significant part of my entire journey through the denimsphere) he pulled out a pair of SC-47s and showed me the hem.. it blew my tiny mind.. i didn't even know Japanese repros existed.. i almost had to go light one of the candles He said they were from a small menswear shop in Sheff called Brother 2 Brother.. he would hem them (a little longer to allow for shrinkage?) using his sewing machine which could chainstitch.. I knew where B2B was, i'd just never been in, they stocked the likes of Maharishi, D&G, Margaret Howell, Dries Van Noten and such.. (high end streetwear through to mid-range fashion labels) this was well before the 2008 heritage boom so 'menswear' didn't yet equate to costly workwear, shops following the JP retail model didn't exist back then.. Nigel Cabourn was still designing highstreet tat for Debenhams rather than pricey Everest-wear. The guys who worked at B2B were always immaculately dressed (in their shiny shoes) i just wasn't (in my tatty randomly sized vtg Levi's, or skateboard jeans from a previous lifetime . i never went in because my pockets were never deep enough to buy anything, the labels were not my steeze and i felt intimidated by the smartly dressed staff, all of whom were a good 10yrs older than me.. but i was desperate to go nerd out over the Sugarcanes.. Niro (the UK distributor of SC) was established as a clothing store in 1986 but i'm not sure exactly when they became the Sugarcane distributor so maybe these SCs came from Niro or maybe they were bought retail by the B2B buyer on a trip to Japan?.. either of these explanations could account for the eye watering price tags.. my questions were many and looking back.. i think they knew as little about these jeans as i did.. they gave me a 2003 Sugarcane Catalogue (to shut me up) which i've kept.. I think this was the first catalogue Sugarcane ever produced, i've never seen anything predating it. it's on the cusp of the SC product codes after they moved on from M .. it's more substantial, more of a yearbook than the magazine type catalogues which would come thereafter.. in the months following i bought a marked down pair of SC-47s from B2B, returned by a customer because they were too small after washing... the sufu sizedown 3 craze was yet to happen A couple of years later, B2B moved premises to a larger retail space underneath the recently opened West One development (across the road from The Designers Republic) a friend of mine did the electrical work for the shopfit.. he got me the 2006 Sugarcane catalogue, it was in here that i first spotted the LoneWolf Mechanic boots.. the 2010 catalogue which i've posted here previously (MF thread.. years ago) came from Vari. I couldn't afford B2B asking price for Sugarcanes so i found myself on the internet.. Hirofumi Udono at Vari was great to deal with, he spoke perfect English and was willing to ship internationally. He lined me up with Hawaii's, Lonewolf boots, Whitesville & Cushman sweats..ect.. i was wearing SC-47s around the time my kid was born in 2009.. (another reason why I’m so attached to them) i didn't do WAYWT back then.. i didn't have the balls but seen here (blurry candid shot) loading the car up with Woolrich Woolen Mills, chambray Upland shirt from the Daiki Suzuki era I found myself here at sufu around 2006/7.. anyway.. enough of all this reminiscing.. Maynard spotted these while searching for his recently acquired SC-66 and gave me a hola.. ..knowing my pathetic inability to resist.. i didn't .. so In a nostalgic denim haze, i've dug out the rest of my SC-47 collection. ..first 4 pairs are raw denim, last pair are current wearers but previously o/w, check out he different hues ..from left, 1991-1997.. 2003-2007 I took this shot of he o/w pair back in 2013 before chucking them on the pile ..i've just got them back from a hem job at soas so i've recreated it A bit more graff, a few extra MMs on the waistline and the JMC sweat is a little more faded 2003 & 2006 Catalogues can be seen here

When my kid was a toddler he would pull all the books off the bookshelf so i boxed everything up which i didn't want to get trashed and shoved them in my parents attic, i still don't have the space for it all so there it's stayed.. I'm pretty sure 2003 was the first ever catalogue SC produced to showcase the release of their new range with the SC product codes Enjoy, you'll not find this elsewhere on the webz.. The 2003 catalogue wouldn't fit in the scanner due to thickness so i've had to bulldog clip it open and photograph it. Hawaii Okinawa Y'all owe me a pint for this.. it took me fkin ages with my cranky old scanner.. 2006 Catalogue There was a period (post 2007) when existing stock of SC-47s were being sold with the arcs ripped out by retailers.. this was followed by a period where they were being manufactured without arcs but they still had the red tab.. then the tabs were being cut by retailers.. then SC started making them without tabs or arcs, as we see today.. There must have been constant lawsuit murmurings within the denim industry .. the old Surgarcane MP jeans had very Levi's-esque arcs.. albeit they were still broken (Kiya has commented in the past, on another forum that he thinks the breaking of the arcs was an attempt by SC to distance themselves from Levi's arcs) this is probably the best explanation i've heard as to why.. but if so, they were worried about repercussions as far back as the 1980s.. As we know, SC distanced themselves entirely from Levi / Wrangler / Lee for the 1998 series of jeans (this could be down to concerns over legal action) .. then they took the bold move to resurrect arcs and tabs in 2003.. this must have ruffled a few feathers at Levi's because by 2006 the 1947s 1955s and 1966 repros had their arcs omitted from the catalogue even though they were still being made and sold with arcs. If you look closely at the thumbnail, they've tried and failed to cover them with the guarantee ticket.. this catalogue would have been printed 18mths before the 2007 lawsuit You're Welcome

Papa nui, universal works, RMC, vans

The buttons arrived and Simone said, he will start working on the jeans from next Monday on. Stay tuned!

Here are some nicer images of the $240k 1890's recently discussed in the other thread, before they disappear into some museum. These courtesy of mushroom vintage. 2 notable things for me. The close up of the crotch construction with what looks like a gusset(?) type thing going on - where's @Sansome1877 when you need him? Secondly, is that a pair of og canvas one pocket duck pants in the first shot? Guy must have spent a fortune.

Breaking in nicely

Enjoyed what's remaining of the fall foliage in Ohio this weekend. Brother and I went for a mountain bike ride Saturday morning. Some dude was posted up taking pictures on the trail and got these pictures of me and him. Then my girlfriend and I went to Holden Arboretum in the afternoon. There's a canopy walk at the arb that I'd never had a chance to check out cos it's always been closed when I've been there, so we were excited to find out that she could take her wheelchair along it. Then on Sunday my band opened for Earth Crisis which was pretty wild. Never thought I'd get to say that. All in all it was a great weekend.

1922 from @Duke Mantee roping nicely

Carhartt wip, vintage aran, old canes, red wings

Spent a long weekend in the Denver area, enjoyed some proper cooler weather. Even saw some snow! That's a big deal for us. FW watch cap. FW M-1951. FW sweat. FW 1942. Blundstone.

Wickett & Craig heavyweight bridle, snakeskin, vintage glass and antique nickel hardware

More Japanese Youtube content, but wow those 22's at the 20:15 mark

Here we go, just found this on Bidstitch

Denime - Ooe - Chucks

They look glorious! And also thank you for sharing the memories. I heard from another user who recently acquired an old stock SC47 with arcs (you know who you are!)

Great post Neal, it’s always interesting to hear people’s selvedge denim origin stories and also to see your raw SC collection posted in all its glory. I’ll remain on the lookout for you 👀

New cpo arrived

Overall quality is a bit shonky for $240k... the previous owner hasn't even washed them properly 😉

Ran out of steam…

I visited the Brogue store a while back when I happened to be in the area. I was able to return a piece despite it being a sale item (they don't officially accept returns on those). I bought a couple of FW items. A rare opportunity to try those things on & look in the mirror. Very few US stores carry FW. Had a shot of single malt scotch. Can't complain...

A testament to how good their denim is...Super vintagey 🙏

vintage bomber jacket Freewheelers 1922. Nicks builder pro

Limit of participants: 25 Duration of the contest: 18 months Prize: 3rd and 4th classifies 40% discount on a new order 2nd a free pair of jeans 1st a free WWII Type-1 Jkt. Each participant can chose the cut/model Available cuts: 311 (slim straight): a 60s cut if you so will. All orange stitching. Hidden rivets can be added if you want 411 (40s cut): late 40s (clean fly but raw crotch, seams color as desired) or WWII (raw fly, raw crotch, hbt pocket, more wonkyness, all yellow seams, no coin rivets) 5150 (kinda 50s cut, tribute to Eddie van Halen): all orange stitching 611 or S411 (same model): buckle back/reversed yoke construction, hidden rivets, crotch rivets, mixed orange yellow stitches, Yellow/black chain on the inside belt. If desired i could add a ‘42ish version with no buckle back, same fit, crotch rivets seams color as desired, standard yoke construction. Please refer to the size charts. Update: odd sizes can be made! A custom leather patch is possible. Pizza shaped arcs is a no no Choices of denim. The Poll is OPEN! 1. RS1950-ROW Cotton origin: USA Mill: Shinya Loom: Ensyu (Enshu) Rope dyed Yarn count: 7.1 x 7.1 Density: 62 x 46 Weight: approx 12oz loomstate 2. RS501-UF Cotton origin: USA & Australia Mill: Kaihara Loom: Toyoda Rope dyed Yarn count: 7.1 x 7.1 Density: 67 x 48 Weight: approx 12oz loomstate Denim No.1 is the denim used on my sample pair. It's rather new to Simone. Denim No.2 is Simone's "standard" denim where he has the most experience with. Comparison between RS1950 (left) and RS501 (right): His own pair made with RS501 was worn for 10 months and washed approx every 2 weeks: Price: Simone offers the jeans for a lower price of 280€ + shipping! Payment will be 50% on order, rest when the jeans are finished. This will allow him to book the denim (before production) and to offer also embossed labeled buttons for all models except WWII version.

@MJF9@MJF9 as promised some pictures. I can take better ones during the weekend, it gets so bloody dark fast here in the Nordics 😅

SExSC06

Sounds feasible. I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to 501's made before 1900.

Could this be by design? i.e. When tightened it would pull the gathered part in an upward direction.

@Double 0 Soul top stuff... you've won the internet today!!

@MJF9 it does fit but I never used it much due to I find it too short. But I can snap some pictures

And the riveted 'squares' - for want of a better word, are facing downward/wonky. Otherwise look legit(?)

I know And if not..would you take his W34 for an oversized look?

He’s waiting to see how much my o/w stretch back out in the waist

Nope, long gone

@silencejoe that older cpo is looking nice!

P16

More vintage love a studio d' Artisan model from the mid 90's the lot number i cant remember due to it wearing off and the care labels fading, and another EVIS 2101 Lee cowboy 101 reproduction with a more intact lazy S paint

The cinch is very low on that pair, almost like Lee 101B.

WTS 3A-2 black X-Pac No flaws, rarely used Full pack 325€ F&F + shipping from EU

I posted in the Warehouse thread that I found some jeans I had squirreled away. In the same box I found this jacket that is still raw and unwashed since it was a bit on the shorter side for me. So they have been packed away in 15 years and I think they are older than that and before the Levis lawsuit. This is some quite crappy indoors picture and doesn't do the fabric justice. It's such nice character being neppy and quite starchy. I can snap some pictures in daylight if anyone wants to see better details. Out of curiosity, what would a resell value be for these?

240000 dollar for a vintage Levi’s at inspiration Tokyo. must be an investment more than interest in vintage jeans

Pulled my old pair of 1966s out of the attic while digging out some sale items (https://www.instagram.com/jim.shoppe/ ). These *aren’t* for sale but they look neat!

Freewheelers 1920s tux

EVIS 2101 LAZY S - 1990

Phigvel phigvel Wesco

Big Trouble in Little China, mini Typ3 to fit 1/6th scale Jack Burton figure.. Yours for £85

some of my denim bits.... 1.levis 501 xx 1927 2. levis 501xx 1933 3. hellers cafe - larrys collection 4. silverstone ground -alls 5 samurai lot 17 6. evisu no.2 7. stevensons overalls lot 727 8. sugar cane SC40200 x toyo enterprises 9. Evis lot 2504

Went to get an x-ray today and someone in the wait room was wearing a shirt I'd recognize anywhere....