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From a recent vintage market. Pic by @Illcutz Cap- self made Hoodie- warehouse Jacket- style eyes Pantaloons- warehouse

I struggle with mirror selfies but this one seemed to turn out passable. FW x 3, Lofgren sneakers.

MiJ 44’s that I use as my work jeans, I’ve been wearing these for a month, one more wear then they’re going in the wash as they are minging

@tooth I've reflected on and obsessed over this for an undue amount of time given how little time I've actually been invested in repro denim / Americana / MiJ stuff in general. To the point though now that I know what I like and where to get that - and it's always direct from the makers of the jeans themselves, either the factory hem or the hemming provided by the maker of the jeans when ordering. The best examples of this being Fullcount and Warehouse. I've found that the hems I have had from other places, while still good, have not been rolled as tight, or at that goldilocks width. Having had what I see as the perfect hem, it's hard to be satisfied with anything else.

Not sure if this is a rhetorical question, but it’s because the person setting up the machine has control over the width of the hem. There’s a shop in the town I live in that hems with a union special and they say they set their width to match Levi’s from such and such year (I forget what year / era in particular). The setting is a bit wide and in turn doesn’t provide as much tension so the roping, while still nice, is more open with larger spacing between the ‘ropes’. I prefer a tighter hem with closer ropes, which is how all the factory FC pairs (along with other factory hems from other makers) I’ve had have been. I’ve figured that having a wider hem setting on the machine allows for more lenience as the person hemming is working with more material and in turn is a bit easier to work, but this is all conjecture on my part as I’ve never hemmed anything.

I have a couple of the Permanent Style / Allevol white t-shirts which are rather short and boxy – although loop wheeled (allegedly), they have been recut at the the sides so they have seams and are somewhat tapered (i.e., not as boxy). This was the P.S. attempt to arrive at a t-shirt that sat a bit higher on the back of the neck and had a vintage fit without being too shapeless and flappy at the hem.. with some success, I think. Not sure how it compares to the usual Allevol fare, but these shirts have seen more frequent wear than many other Japanese tees (Full Count, Dubbleworks, Flat Head, Iron Heart, etc, etc, much as I like all these) so.. yeah. Disclaimer: I have had several beers

Challenger Phigvel Vendor Phigvel Vans

I'm glad I'm not the only one that is so particular about the hem of jeans. Fullcount and Warehouse factory hems are also my favorites - I wish there was someone would could replicate those because they would have my business. I had a pair of Roys hemmed at a shop and the hem width is pretty large and the roping looks awful... I'll have to snap a pic sometime.

For what it's worth, and this is probably not much now given you already have them in hand - Full Count hem pairs bought direct from them and their hemming matches the factory hems very closely. @beautiful_FrEaK I did not know that! Thank you for the info!

From mostly only wearing boots, I've turned into a bit of a sneakerhead now. Anyway, here is one of my favourite sneakers to wear during fall. New Balance 990v4 'olive incense' colourway with my Oni 546-ZR

New York Hat Co // Dry Bones // MF // Viberg x Iron Heart

my Denime 220A Next month they will stay in closet. Tuesday I am leaving and one month Iĺl live on the boat. My daily clothing will became neoprene...

Halloween party last night. Paris, Texas became one of me and my girlfriend's favorite movies when we watched it after someone posted stills of it in the iconic denim photos thread.

FW, BB, FW, Lofgren

MF/Drake's/MF/FC/Sebago

TCB jacket, Tender sweater, SDA pants, golden retriever.

@PrettyBoyTony The 220A denim does not feel particularly heavy - a happy medium I'd say. Does not feel close to my 17 oz. Samurai's. The 220A denim seems to fade pretty quickly too. My pair has less than 3 months of wear and they've faded a surprising amount. Take the 6 cm shrinkage with a grain of salt depending on your size, but I'd say the normal 10% is a fair assumption. As for ongoing shrinkage, I haven't noticed any beyond the waist returning to the shrunk measurement.

@yung_flynn actually neither! There are some remaining pairs with the gents at Signet: https://thesignetstore.com/collections/warehouse/products/cowboy-pants-ww2-model-1002

Again veering off topic but I’m super curious to see how the TCB 1890s roping develops since the hems are not chainstitched but rather super tightly lock stitched. From my single wash post-factory, they seem like they will still develop nice roping. It’s a slight bummer that FC moved away from the L34 and L36 inseams because it means that newer releases will be far too short. I’m perfectly happy with the available options that are long enough for me though

Interesting to hear everyone’s views. And reassuring to hear the level of obsession throughout. @bod this is intriguing, I shall make a note of them and potentially use in future. @willi I’m way too short to go the same route. And with the obsession with the hem comes the need to have it on show, either uncuffed completely, or cuffed once. Another perfect example would be TCB, they’ve got it 100% nailed. From my somewhat basic research (and hours of obsession), I believe it to be a combination of the size of the folder on the machine, and how well the machine is actually maintained and run. I think with Inoue san having worked on the machines for so many years, TCB’s are very well “tuned” (please excuse the non expert terminology!!) This is getting way off thread topic sorry mods!

Interesting discussion on the hemming. My FC 1108s did have a nice, narrow hem width. Ditto for my WH 1001xx, maybe my favorite narrow hem ever. However, the hem on my WH 800xx was different, and maybe the thickest width of any of the Japanese repro jeans I've had. It's similar to the hem on my TFH 3005, etc. But the TFH denim and WH 800xx denim is 14.5 oz, so I think the heavier weight is probably why the hem is a bit thicker on those. In other words, if you like that really clean, narrow hem, 14 oz or lighter denim is more likely to have it. Being quite a tall fellow myself, I almost never need my jeans hemmed. The only pair that really needed it were my Samura S710xx. I wore the factory hem for probably about 4-6 months, before I had them hemmed at a Flat Head Dessert Hills Market store in Ueda, Nagano in 2013. To my surprise, this new hem had a ton of roping, even though the denim had long since fully shrunk before that. This made me wonder if there was something about that particular 43200G machine (or maybe just the inexperience of my coworker, who was working at the store that day and operated the machine, clearly having a hard time hemming the 19 oz denim.)

Back when the £-$ exchange rate was still decent I used to send my jeans to Blue in Green for hemming, they had the perfect sized folder on their Union Special something like 10mm? nice and small and great tension for insane roping

I have hem OCD, and the stage I've reached is that I just leave the hemming to the manufacturer and wear the jeans at whatever length they arrive. Any after wash hemming is going to drive me nuts, but if it arrives a certain way I can accept the hand of god.

They are good sweats. Short and boxy. I have an xl I think. I could measure later if you need.

I've got a couple of older ones from Cushman. They may still do 'em.🤷‍♂️

If you check the feedback of the Yahoo! seller above^.. it's appalling by honorable Japanese standards. Numerous 'very bad seller' reviews in regards to Muramasa jeans and lots of those Mickey x Rolexes which are 'coincidentally' sold at the Rakuten store.. also accusations of low listing prices / high buyouts and phoney bidding. It all seems dodge.. of the numerous different brands mentioned, most of them lead back to the same guy who seems to be generating hype with low listing prices and shill bidding... if one of his brands gets a bad rep, he'll just slap a different patch on there. #denimgrifter

@Alec Leamas different waist sizes come with different inseam length. W32 to W33 is the size where it changes.

I have been to BEARS, and that place is so packed with jeans that you can barely fit in there. There is no way they are doing any additional washing. As @Alec Leamas said, I would imagine you got a pair that was sitting on the heating element (mostly), and the other pair was probably protected by a few pairs in the dryer. When I was at Fullcount in Tokyo, I noticed that each patch was different too, didn't really think about it until then but I'd imagine that's why.

EVIS 2101 lazy 'S' with pale blue paint Lee cowboy 101 homage, around 1990

A few ppl over in the discord have bought it - it's nice, lightweight & boxy, fits very big, some guys are sizing down multiple sizes. The moleskin feels just about how you'd expect moleskin to feel and is thick enough to wear in colder temps but not so thick that it's moot in warmer temps either. Personally don't like the fit, it would be so cool if it fit straight. This whole new era of size-too-big jackets is lame, but I'm excited to see how they use the fabric on future silhouettes!

One of the neighbours has gone a bit overboard..

***SOLD*** J68-GT Price is $400 shipped to CONUS + 4% through paypal invoice Color: Schwarzgrün Size: Large Condition: Used condition but plenty of life left. No major signs of wear on the outside but some marks on the inside from standard use. Not noticeable while wearing. Please look at pics carefully. Does not come with bag or spec sheet but will come with extra logo tape.

Japan Blue Jacket that I've had for 2.5ish years. Many washes

Of course you can ask mate. I am traveling to Indonesia to region of Banda Sea. There we will cruise on the boat the sea in zone between Indonesia, Papua and East Timur and dive around the islands. In the zone without digital pollution - no phone, no internet ...

Freewheelers 30s tux, cinched and beltless / Buckweat

Early 1960s paper tag 2002XX. First time ever wearing a denim jacket. I have mixed feelings so far but just not used to it I guess. This was purchased unwashed from Cultizm on Monday night. In my hands in the middle of nowhere California on Thursday, washed and now it’s dry Thoughts on fit? It feels good so far, but I have very wide hips so knew I’d likely never be able to do anymore than a couple of buttons up…

Here’s my other pair of 3005, my main jeans at the moment. I think these have been worn about ten months. Washed three times.

Great Lakes x2 / Hollows / Cane’s / Frank’s

Mended the cuffs on my Lee cowboy jacket. Dirty job, needed to get donen papa nui, Lee, fullcount, vans

Freewheelers - WW2 tux (newly hemmed by @Mr Black), Ironalls and sweatshirt / Converse Timeline / @Duke Mantee and Rototo not visible

Front and back shot because I'm wearing the 1001XX-25 for the first time (maybe not properly first but first waywt with them!) Kamakura Buzz Rickson Belt Warehouse 1001XX-25 Alden LHS

Warehouse vs Shins Type III Jacket. It took the Shins jacket about 17 years to fade that way. I'm sure the Warehouse will do it in less than year.

I didn't resist.... LVC MiJ Type III. 557XX 1961. Bears have it for reasonable price....

My natural indigo 1880s were a bit grubby so I gave them a handwash. For those who haven't seen them before, this was pretty much LVC's last model and, more significantly, Cone's last new fabric, an 1880s nautral indigo repro, using indigo grown in the US. It's a bit dark and my hands are a bit shaky (hangover) but this gives something of an impression. My previous natirual indigo jeans included the early Levi's Nevada/Kurabo, the SDA, Sugarcane; this is easily the nicest fabric. Crocks quite a lot but doesn't wash out, lots of crinkling. These are close to the perfect place, so for the summer I've switched to my old 1890s single pocket pair, which are Kaihara fabric I think - nice, but the slubbing is far more regular, Cone really mastered a more random slub on what would be their last new Levi's style fabric. The other pic is the field that supplied the indigo, harvested at dawn.